My 2010 RX350 (~30k miles) recently has been making a squeaking noise when I close my rear lift gate. Sounds like the squeaking is coming from the left side "Rear Door Hatch Support" ..i believe that is what it is called. Is this something I can WD-40 and lube? Car is under warranty..
View 3 RepliesI have a new RX 450h with 3500 miles on it and the lift gate is not working. before I drive 100+ miles to the dealership?
View 5 RepliesI took my wife's 2010 tig for a drive after washing it this morning and noticed water on the rear window so I turned on the rear wiper. Well, to my dismay, the wiper didn't clean the water off because it was on the inside. I noticed water streaks on the inside part of the rear window a few weeks ago but I figured it was from condensation. It wasn't one or 2 drops, it was leaking down across the whole back window. I assume it is a seal but wanted to see if this is an identified issue.
View 2 RepliesLeaking from the top, right center. I taped over the brake light, still leaking. Not the gasket, any water sources others have found? I guess it wasn't a problem its first 8 years of life in the Arizona desert, but I bought it and brought to the wet northwest!
View 6 RepliesHow to remove inside plastic of the rear lift gate? Want to remove a few dents.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 Saturn Outlook. The rear lift gate does not work anymore, as a matter of fact it tries to slam itself shut whenever it is lifted. I am not extremely mechanically inclined but I can do minor repairs so I also need to know if I can fix this problem or need to take it to a mechanic.
View 3 RepliesWe're coming up on 36k miles and it will be a real hassle to get it into the dealer before it reaches the end of warranty. The lift gate is rattling horribly (my 8 year old diesel truck is tight compared to this car). Is it worth trying to get it into the dealership for this or would I be wasting my time because they can't do anything about it anyway? Or, is there a fix I can do relatively easily myself?
View 2 RepliesMy mother-in-law has a 2003 Escape with a V-6. For the last week the rear lift gate and window will not open. Tried the door key and the driver's side door unlocked. Turned the key again within three seconds (according to the operator's manual). The two lights flashed, the remaining doors opened except for the rear gate. I pressed my ear to the gate and it sounds like it is trying to release the locking mechanism. Any recommendations?
View 7 RepliesI forgot I had my lift gate open and backed out of the garage...crunch! Broke off the plastic air spoiler thing. It was attached with some kind of adhesive covering 5 bolt heads and a snap on grommet at each end.
I drilled out the old adhesive on the plastic panel and chipped it off the bolts. I hope I can get two new plastic fasteners at Toyota or a body shop. Question...should I just use a two part epoxy (or what else is recommended) on the bolt heads to mount it again?
One of the interior handles for the liftgate broke off. I removed it. From what I can tell, this handle is molded to the interior trim part.
I'd like to glue this piece back on, rather than having to purchase the complete lower trim piece.
What is the best type of glue for this plastic?
Rear lift gate refuses to stay up in cooler weather, cylinders must have leaked down.
View 14 RepliesI've had my Accent for a year and a half and now it has about 23k miles on it. I noticed that whenever I would apply the brakes, and the lift my foot off the pedal, I would hear a squeak . . . kind of like a squeaky door. It would happen every time I would lift off the brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the pedal itself, then I rolled down the window and realized it was coming from my rear drums.
So I took the rear drums off which was a PITA to get them off, and used some brake cleaner and white lithium grease on the backing plates of the shoes and on the springs, and the squeak is gone!
I suspect this is probably an issue with drums since it's a relatively closed system and brake dust tends to accumulate in there. Any good technique to remove the rear drums, other than using a hammer to tap it loose?
Here's a pic of the rear brakes with the drum off.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
My lift gate handle has come loose for a second time. First time epoxy was used and that worked really well since the contact was plastic and it Broke. This time it's more loose and afraid if I use epoxy again in same exact spot it won't. Adhere the Same?
View 5 RepliesMy power liftgate recently stopped working. The motor seems to be working but the motor will only move the gate a ltittle bit, then beep and stop. It does this regardless of which buttons I push or manually move the gate. I have no issues with the lock function. I can't seem to find out where the sensors are as I want to try fixing those first.
View 2 RepliesI just replaced the battery, and since then the electronic latch for the lift gate will no work. The only way I can get it opened is from the inside using the access hole and a screw driver. I have checked the fuse and it is good.
View 1 RepliesI took the 88 out yesterday (3.0 with rebuilt transmission).. it looks like there is transmission fluid on the back (spots all over it).. I can only assume it's transmission fluid... I tried to wipe it off... but it was kind of a mist.. I assume the modulator should be checked? I'm not sure where it is or what it looks like though...
View 14 RepliesA few days after having the rear window glass replaced now the rear door on my 07 Santa Fe will not open. I hear the electric motor locking/unlocking the mechanism but the handle won't open the gate.
I guess I will need to get to the locking mechanism but it seems to me that it will take a lot of work to get the rear panel off from inside the "trunk". Is this a somewhat common issue with the SF? Any way to get it fix.
Due to the rain this weekend I decided to clean out my interior and do some maintenance. Lately my driver-side door has been making a squeaking sound. As such, I decided to lube up all the doors just in case. Upon inspecting all the doors/hinges I found that both the driver-side rear door and passenger-side rear door hinge bolts are rusted real bad. These are the bolts that connect the hinge to the door rather than the hinge to the door frame.
I inspected the door for any sign of water intrusion, but could not see anything out of ordinary. Also, nothing else was rusted or appeared to be water damaged. I inspected all the other hinge bolts around the car for comparison and they were fine. It is strange that both rear passenger doors have this issue. I bought the vehicle used and the Carfax comes back clean with no accidents or damage reported.
The only other time I have seen this is when the door has been worked on, and a socket was used which stripped the protective paint off the bolt. Even then only the rough edges of the bolt rusted, and not the entire thing. While I could foresee one door being worked on, I do find it strange that both would have needed work. However, this assumption does not rule out the possibility.
My only other issue of concern which may play into this is the surprising amount of sand I find on the exterior. As good as one can clean a car there are always some places that will never get fully clean. With that said, while the exterior is clean I have found sand residue in little crevices (weep holes) and corners throughout. I am sure that sand and moisture would play a part in causing rust to accumulate, except that no other parts show any sign of rust. This is certainly bizarre to me. I plan on replacing the bolts, but would like to remedy the problem before hand if possible.
This bad squeaking, loose rattling and (sometimes) banging noise from the left rear started happening about a couple weeks ago. I've removed all interior panels, even the exterior bumper thinking there was something loose and nothing. I suspect as a last resort it has to be the suspension despite the car having only 17k km.
What is strange is the rattle increases in sound volume and occurs more often the longer you drive and also if temperatures get colder.
In other words, if I have the car parked in my garage overnight (slightly above 0 C) and immediately drive next morning into sub-freezing temps and on bumpy roads, you don't hear it. But after 5-10 minutes of driving, you start to hear it and gets louder and more frequent.
Searched other threads and some have reported the shock as the problem for 2010/2011 models, but none had any sound or video to compare.
The video shows how bad it is : [URL] ....
I have a 2010 RX 350 and it seems like my support bars in the rear lift gate do not support the gate as it used to be. i have to push the gate up each time I open the gate in order for it to go up all the way. My motor is still working fine. How to change the support bars in the RX? I think those support bars are hydraulic.
View 11 RepliesMy RX 350 is 5 months old, 8000 miles. It has developed very annoying rattling noises under the rear seat and, sometimes, rear door panels.
View 1 Replies