When I release it then start in reverse often the car doesn't move then there is a loud sound from the right rear tire. If I don't engage the brake it reverse fine.I don't know where to start with this. I assume there is a cable going back to the wheel cylinders. Perhaps binding up somehow.
View 1 Replies2000 Mercedes A-class, currently 190 Km, purchased 7 years ago with 90Km, all maintenance on time, as recommended.
If the car sits a day, no problem. If it sits a few days, then when releasing the brake and trying to move, the car lurches a bit. The longer it sits, the worse it seems.
Is this the back drums, as the dealer tells us, or is something else wrong?
My mother-in-law moved my car and put the emergency brake on (2010 Santa Fe) when she got out. When I got into drive home, I drove about 10miles with it engaged (for some reason the light didn't indicate it was on). When I got home I noticed a burnt rubber smell from the left rear tire. (no smoke though)
Our driveaway is an incline. After engaging/disengaging the e-brake, the light started coming back on again. If I put the car in neutral and release the regular brakes, it will quickly roll back. If I put the e-brake on in netural and disengage the regular brake, it still holds fine on the hill.
I know the damage can vary, but any test or check I can do to determine the amount of damage?
My 98 lumina seems to make a knocking/bouncing sound in the right rear wheel well when I brake. It never happens when I'm braking driving in the city (25 mph or so) but it happens when I'm closer to 40mph and up.
I thought it might've been a drum brake issue but I just had the brakes serviced about two or three weeks ago. It still does it. This isn't a new issue. It's something that's been going on for years.
When I press and hold the brake and lightly release the pressure. The brakes would make this loud squeal. This happens when the car on or off. Just found out today that if I have to stop really suddenly, it makes the same noise. I have an rx450h w 42k miles. Any thought?
View 11 Replies2002 Excursion 4x4. While applying my emergency brake today I heard a loud bang. Now, the parking brake won't come up when I pull the parking brake release. Also, the noise is driving me crazy. Is there a way to release the pedal until I can get the cable replaced?
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2011 santer fe auto with a foot hand brake. i park the car on my drive which is on a slight incline, when i put it in reverse and then release the hand brake there is a crunching sound and the rear offside wheel locks. It eventually releases after a number of revolutions but it sounds very mechanical clunky.
View 5 RepliesBought a 2004 GX470 a few months ago. Took it into the local Toyota dealer for oil change (40+ miles to nearest Lexus)
They told me I needed to replace front brake pads, so I did that. Immediately after they finished I noticed what I would describe as a clack or clank sound when pressing or releasing the brake pedal.
This sound was not there before. I went back inside and told them, the tech came out and listened and said it would probably go away. I took the car back in a couple weeks later and they applied some type of lube which didn't work. The service rep said that the only way to remove sound was to replace some type of pin.
My caliper gets seized when I disengage the emergency brake.
View 8 RepliesFor the last couple of weeks I've had a clunking sound coming from the right rear end of my 1997 Lumina when I drive over bumps. Took it to a garage the other day and discovered that the area around the right rear shock (strut?) mount is severely rusted. I assume that other probably causes were checked, but the mechanic was suggesting that this was the reason for the noises I've been hearing. From what I saw, and what the mechanic said, the shock mount is integrated into the wheel well of the vehicle. There's little good metal left in order to support the shock and coil spring, so obviously this situation needs to be addressed, but can this really be the source of the noise? His idea of a fix was that I would have to find a donor car with good metal and use that to replace the rusted wheel well on mine. Not something that his shop can do, but I'm sure there are others in my area that can.
View 17 RepliesBefore I get started... My truck is a 2006 F-250 Super Duty XLT 6-speed 4x4 with a Limited Slip.
I just got finished with a big job on my truck. New pads all the way around, turned rotors, new emergency brake shoes, hardware, and backing plate as well as replaced the rear wheel bearings both inner and outer as well as the axle o-ring and inner seal. Also, took off the rear pumpkin cover painted it and put fresh fluid in, went with Mobil 1 75W140 LS.
Took it for a drive and the brakes work great. Followed the directions for breaking in the emergency brake which worked fine.
Now the problem is I'm getting rattling from possibly all of the wheels. Definitely from the front driver and at least one of the rear wheels. It was so dark I didn't get a chance to look at it I just pulled it back in driveway.
I'll start looking at things tomorrow but, any common mistakes or things I should check first?
I was driving on the freeway(70mph), when a loud pop noise (sound of a blown tire.) Felt like a wheel bearing seized up then felt rough on the road. Got off the freeway and everything looked normal from the outside. No smell/smoke. While driving home on the back roads, i was hearing a rattle from the trunk area.
Lifted the car and noticed a little bit of fluid on the front of the differential. Didn't find any leaks or puddles. Took the fuse out for the haldex, and drove it around, still feels the same but still hear the rattle. Hoping its not the differential but haven't drained any fluid yet.
Ok, well never mind. brake system locked up on me.
2014 FX4 F. Got 6000 miles on the truck, front tires are wearing on the outside edge, and also when turning the wheels to the max in either direction I get a loud creaking sound,??
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford Explorer V8 4 wheel drive. Yesterday I was on the way home from a 2 hour drive and was on the expressway at a complete stop on a downhill grade. When I hit the gas, the car started lurching - it would shoot forward, then slow down, then shoot forward, then slow down.
I got the car to the side of the road and called a tow truck. Just to test - while I was waiting for the truck I put the car in neutral and even though I was on a steep downhill grade, it wouldn't roll at all. When I put it in drive - it wouldn't go initially until I had to put a decent amount of pressure on the gas pedal. I reminded me a being at a speed bump that you couldn't idle over and have to give the car some gas to power it up over the bump.
When the tow truck got there - I watched the driver drive the Explorer up onto the bed of the tow truck. What I noticed was this:
The left front tire was completely locked when he was hitting the gas. But when he gave it enough gas, the right tire that was working would push the car forward while the left tire remained locked creating friction on the pavement but the car was still moving forward from the other wheel.
Then after 3 or 4 feet - the left tire would unlock/release and start to rotate - causing the car to suddenly lurch forward. But then after another few few it would lock again. Then release again.
The thing I found odd was that when the driver later reversed the car down off the truck - the left front wheel worked just fine. So the car works perfectly in reverse, but in drive the left wheel locks then releases then locks then releases.
Drove up to red light...proceded up a hill...the usual route... Then half way through while going 55 mph my e brake deploys on my rear right tire......I parked on the side of the road, turned off the car, twice, then the ebrake turned off.
View 19 RepliesMy R has been giving me some trouble lately. First I had some issues, I thought were clutch related.
-A loud clunk when releasing clutch pedal (only when engine running) and sometimes when depressing it too.
-Randomly changing clutch biting point when driving hard. So e.g. when revving through 1st and 2nd gear the clutch would bite much lower than usual. (This was so weird.)
-Whistling sound when changing from 1st to 2nd gear.
Replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate and the TOB and bled the system several times. Also new solid DLI motor mounts and new oem dogbone mount.
There was some side-to-side play on input shaft that I was told is not a big deal. Also this gearbox has always been much louder than other cars Ive driven.
Now that weird changing clutch biting point is gone but other issues are still there. And now, because of the lightweight smf and the motor mounts the gears shatter and whine so much more on low revs and during engine braking. I know 02m s tend to do that but its so loud I am a bit worried.
I have a 2010 prius 2;
This morning after starting the car and releasing the brakes I heard loud clunking sound (seemed like a belt ?) Turned the car off. tried it again exact same thing, turned if off .. opened the hood to see if I can tell where this was coming from.. started the car and the clunking came for <1 sec and went away, car drove fine brakes worked fine..
I read something regarding temp changes we have had some change but not a drastic change, and the car was driven over the weekend.
I have a 2000 X 5.4... There is a loud roaring noise when releasing gas pedal or stopped (doesn't matter whether its in park or drive)...noise stops when giving gas...the noise is almost like a bull horn...there are no engine lights on so can't get a code...
View 8 RepliesI was just driving home and noticed and sort of slapping sound from my rear left tire - I pulled over at a gas station to take a look at it and found no issues with the tire itself (bubbles/flat spots) or any irregular wear, my next best guess is that the wheel bearing has gone bad, is there a way i can test this for the rear wheels without putting it on a lift?
View 13 RepliesI hadn't driven my new GTI (DSG w/PP) for the last month. It was regularly started but not driven. Took it out today and noticed a knocking sound coming from the rear that could be heard every tire revolution. Distinct sound, not metal to metal as if a caliper had hung up. Noise in forward only not reverse. Nothing interfering with tire revolution. Needless I'm not driving until I get it checked out. What it could be?
View 2 RepliesThe scene: 22k miles on a 2010 Prius II. Loud rear brake squeal, worse when backing, but still present going forward at low speeds. Does not seem to go away even when warmed up. I put it off having it checked at first because a little rust on the pads is very common in my climate.
At the dealer, the tech tells me I've worn completely through the pads and scored the rotor! At 22k! On a Prius, for crying out loud! It's not my driving, either, because that's the first I've ever had anything done to rear brakes on any car before 75k. The front brakes needed no attention at all. I challenged the service tech with these points; he even took me back into the shop to show me. The caliper pistons were moving freely, for what it's worth. Ultimately he just shrugged me off.