Malibu :: 01 HVAC Fan Didn't Work On Level 5
May 30, 2013
I changed the resistor but level 5 still didn't work with the new resistor installed... Found out that it was a 30 amp fuse #53 under the hood, the high level blower fuse. Installed a new fuse, put the old resistor back in and the AC blower worked fine! However, one more problem....the new fuse blew a few minutes later...not sure what that is about. I installed a second 30 amp fuse and it has been working for an hour so far.
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I'm a new Prius owner (only 500 miles) and have experienced a lot of issues so far. Today I got in my car and both front and rear windows were fogged up. I turned on both defoggers and the front window would not clear. I set the vent speed to high and could hear a noise like the air was blowoing, but it did NOT clear the front window - I had to clear it with a cloth so I could see.
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I have been dealing w/ a broken gas gauge for a while and have been monitoring my mileage and fill-ups and have been able to calculate my gas usage pretty well, however sometimes I may get a little lost on where my level is at. I just recently have been using a long plastic tie strap that reaches the end (I think) of the gas intake and I believe hits the gas tank. (Its goes in about 4' and I cannot push it any further at that point)
My question is when it comes up w/ no gasoline on it I am wondering how many gallons are remaining. Looking at a diagram of the gas tank it looks concave, where some of the gas may sit lower that where my tie hits. But I am almost certain that I have at least a few gallons remaining. For safety and other reasons this is not something that I am doing often, its just in this case I am a few miles from a gas station so I do not want to risk it.
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When AC is on "Auto" the fan runs at slowest speed unless outside temp is over 100 degrees or setting is below 64 degrees. With setting left at 70 or 71 degrees, and outside temp is 80 or higher, cabin temp will slowly rise when driving in traffic and will slowly fall at speeds over 60, but not reach set temp until driving over an hour plus.
If fan is manually adjusted to higher speed, "Auto" system shuts off and AC becomes totally manual control. If the "Auto" button is touched, fan goes off again and the system will not do any of the automatic functions spelled out in manual.
Two different dealers have advised that ALL 2014 Avalons are like this and so it is considered "normal" regardless of what manual says and they and Toyota Customer Service refuse to do anything about it. What is the experience of other 2014 owners.
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I got a problem with me partners accent 2003 hatchback, after she filled up with fuel and turned the air-con on the speedo didn't work like it read 0, but while driving and turning the aircon off speedo started working again..... What was wrong or happened? as now it wont do it....it works fine??
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The power button didn't work for a while: For about two hours, the power button (and other stuff) on my 2007 Prius didn't work. But, after a couple of hours, the button worked again and I was able to power down my car (this after many, many pushes both soft and hard). I've now turned it on and off a few times and the car seems to be OK and it's behaving as if it's smiling at me and saying, "What?"
My questions: Does this happen a "lot"? Would the car have turned off if I turned off the smart function (as described on page 34 of the manual)? Is this issue as serious as it seems? Should I dump the car?
This is the first time in 138K miles that the below issues have manifested separately or together.
Other issues that happened at the same time (this morning when the car didn't turn off) were that the:
Instrument cluster was completely dark except for the check engine light (the dark instrument cluster was what first tipped me off that something was wrong)
Backup camera didn't turn on when I shifted into reverse gear
Phone didn't automatically go to speed dial when I was in motion
Fifth door unlock didn't work; the four doors locked/unlocked using the lock/unlock button on the door, but the hatchback didn't unlock.
A day or so ago, the check engine light came on and is throwing a "P0420" code (I posted about this separately yesterday).
By the way, I found out that if you hold down the power button for a while, the car goes into a different state of being where the ICE isn't running and the battery shows as completely empty.
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My camry isn't starting and I thought it was the battery (5 yrs old) and got a new battery. After that, starting was difficult and it still wouldn't start. After a few aaa calls and realizing hitting the starter would get the car to start, I realized it might be the starter. Now, the car won't start even after having one person hit the starter while I turn the key.
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In some areas, the internal PTC cabin heaters were missing the relays and didn't work. They mentioned that the relays were in the glove box and that they easily installed them manually. There were no relays in my glove box, but I couldn't be sure if they were installed. So I took a picture of my "relays and fuses box" for someone with experience to examine. Are the PTC heater relays installed in my car?
Full resolution Dropbox link: [URL] .....
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I'm in the habit of starting the car andthen putting on my seat belt while it is warming up.So I used the Carista OBD2 app to disable the seat belt chime on my 2015 Camry. This is supposed to be the same as doing it from Techstream, I believe.But the ding still sounds several times once I turn the key. The seat belt warning light also flashes in synch with the dings.I confirmed the settings:
Seat belt warning ding (driver)
ENABLED / *DISABLED*
Seat belt warning ding (front passenger)
ENABLED / *DISABLED*
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My 2002 Grand AM turns over like it wants to start but dies right away. Head lights and all work good but right off dome light, radio, and electric car door locks didn't work. After reading and trying the security bypass by putting the key to ON etc., many tries I did finally kill the battery. Jumped it for quite a while and same issue.
The security light has been on for years with no issue but doesn't narrow down if it is the bypass problem since it stays on but the other electric items not working at the same time has me perplexed.
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When I got my Prius, the volume knob didn't work, and I thought I could live with it. Steering wheel controls work fine except when I'm turning the wheel, then I have to chase the buttons. I really want the volume knob to function properly.
The post that inserts into the head unit volume receiving column is sheared off and stuck in there. I tried super-gluing it back together, but that didn't give me the slight bumpy sensation when I turned it. I thought it would at least depress, but not when it was superglued together. It won't pop in and out when I press on it when it was glued.
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So I was driving as usual and out of nowhere my front speakers stopped working. Everything started playing out of the rear speakers and my fade was still centered. I tried the hard reset with the pin and all, shuts the touchscreen and radio off, hit the power button, and nothing changed. Well, my setting were all changed but nothing changed with the front speakers. If I push the fade all the way up to the front, the radio is just silent. Can't figure out what I should do since it seems like a thousand people had this problem and it was fixed by resetting.
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2005 Honda Civic which has been pretty reliable up to this point. Had all the suggested maintenance services up until the most recent which just passed. Last oil change and inspection: Early November.
Last month:Went to start up the car and it basically went all blinky with power. But after letting it sit for a minute or two, it started up just fine. This happened three times. On the third time opened up the hood and found corrode on both polls of the battery. Scrubbed and cleaned the posts and connectors. Had the battery tested and it was just fine. After that no problems or occurrences. Only things that lingers in my head is that perhaps the driver door window rolls down slowly (thought the motor was going out and would have to replace soon) and the headlines would slightly dim and waver at times, but not consistently.
Now:Just got back from vacation and car has been sitting about two weeks. Mostly in weather below freezing, but in a garage. Went to start up the car and the starter would rev but the engine would not turn over. Battery seems to be good still. Jumping did not work either.
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Yesterday I got in my 2000 Rav4 and for no apparent reason the radio, digital clock, and the mirror adjuster didn't work. I checked all of the fuses and replaced one 15amp in the dash but it didn't fix the problem.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu - periodically, they turns signals decide not to work. I don't know that one thing in particular causes them not to work. What could be the issue and is this something I can fix easily (I'm a novice), cheaply and quickly myself?
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07 Prius, 6 speaker NON-JBL.
This happened a couple of weeks ago and then again. ALL the buttons on my steering wheel work, AC, Temperature, Defrost, Recirculation etc , except Audio. ( Dash audio functions work fine! )
The last time, restarting the car and the functions came back to life.
Is there some kind of official "reboot" process for the computers?
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My 05 Chevy Malibu broke down at a stop light. A couple days earlier on my way home the warning light TC (traction control) came on and the gas pedal would not work so I pulled over, turned off the car, and turned it back on. The problem went away. A couple days later the same thing happened to me on my way to class and then when I was leaving class but this time, the car would not crank back up. I had to get a tow to a mechanic who informed me that my engine was shot so I payed to have another used engine put in.
My car was returned to me Thursday afternoon and I had no problems until Friday afternoon when I was on my way home from work. I was braking to make a turn onto my road and the TC light came on along with a message of engine power reduced. I pulled over, turned it off, turned it back on, etc. Then when I was pulling into my driveway the gas pedal "turned off" again. I drove the car this morning to take the mechanic but they were closed. The car gave me no problems. I am a bit of a rough driver. I have a lead foot but I have been taking it easy since I got the car returned to me.
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My daughter recently bought a 2004 chevy malibu. she had it checked by a mechanic, who said it was a decent car for the price. the turn signal does not work when she has the brake on.
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2004 chevy malibu classic... My blinkers make weird sounds and does not work half the time unless i hit the hazard lights. problem two theft system light comes on and stays on. problem three shut off car to re-start i think i can i think i can then start no problem after words. fourth problem the seat belt buzzer wont stop have to play with key in ignition.
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I noticed yesterday while driving the RX (not my daily driver) that when I turned on the A/C to bi-level (chest & feet) it only blew cold air at the chest level while at the feet level it was warm air. If I remember correctly from the past that the feet got cold too so I tried it with the vents only at the feet, still warm air. I even checked to make sure that I didn't have it on bi-level with defroster in use.
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My friend bartered for a '99 F250, 2wd/auto, 4 door, 7.3, 258k miles.
It had reportedly sat for one year, though the expired registration sticker and other things point to it sitting for two.
It ran low on oil, sputtered and died. Oil in the degas tank. Filled to oil to mid way on the hatch marks on the dip stick.
I drove it 25 miles to my house, and the oil level is not reading on the dip stick.
The sludgy fluid level in the degas tank is unchanged. Where is the fluid going?
I will refill the oil to see just how much it lost in the 25 miles if it important to someone, but I prefer to not waste the oil.
My first plan is to remove, inspect and replace the oil cooler o-rings. Even though the dealership charged him for this, I don't trust that they did it right. I think it is the easiest and mostly likely place for oil getting into the coolant.
It does have a really long crank before there is enough low pressure oil for it to start. At the moment I think this is a separate issue.
The dealership also charged him for a replacement injector. No idea if they replaced the cup or not.
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