I recently replaced the head gaskets in my 2003 Malibu. First time and all seems other than it runs rough at stop lights. The check engine came back on and so I had it read and there is an air flow issue. Is there anywhere that I can get a schematic for the vacum lines? I have all over and cannot seem to find a loose or broken one.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Malibu 125,000 miles, 2.2 Engine that was running sluggish, noisy like needed oil (checked didn't) and check engine light was on. Took it to a repair shop and told needed an oil change, car still ran sluggish, told to drive it a day or so. Two days later, car wouldn't go over 50 mph, took it back and told needed air filter and mass air flow cleaned. After they did that, they told me the Catalytic converter needed replaced however they don't do that work. Within a week car would not run so had the cat replaced.
Car ran better but still not great. Took it to another place, spark plugs replaced, throttle body cleaned and fuel injector cleaner added to gas.Still the car ran sluggish and was making noise and check engine light was on. Took it to parts store to have code checked on check engine and said error in bank one of oxygen sensor. I replaced that, reset the light and am sure you know, it still runs bad and noisy and check engine light came back on. I am losing power on hills and big hills the engine rattles.
2001 with the 3.1 6cyl. First thing that started this nightmare is I was noticing a bit of a hiccup after driving for a couple miles. We've only had the car a few months and not sure what maintenance was done so we thought maybe it needed a tune up. Before I got the parts the check engine light came on so I went to parts store to get it read, it was P0302.
Did the wires and plugs and it got worse, the code wasn't p0302 now its just p0300. But after the plugs it also started idling really rough and would be slow to shift. Once it tacked up high and wasn't speeding up. That was only once tho. Also now it has no power its like driving a 2cyl ...
Anyway we decided since the first code said 2 we replaced coil 2, no luck..ok, fuel filter and fuel injector 2, no luck. Also has cleaned various things Im not sure of the technical name for..sensors and air filters and other things.
None of this has worked the car still idles very bad and doesn't have the power it should have. Also cleaned things on fuel rail(?). He is in the process of replacing the crank sensor as someone said if it was all the way bad it would throw a different code but it may just be faulty.
My 2008 Malibu service manual states that the check engine light should briefly come on when I start my engine. When the engine is cold this does not happen. Also, it happens infrequently when the engine is warm. My Chevrolet dealer says this is normal as the light checks out when tested. Chevrolet has not given me a difinitive answer on this. My concern is that if this is a problem it may surface at another time when the light should go on and cause damage if not attended to. If the manual says the check engine light should go on when the engine is started and it doesn't, doesn't this mean something is wrong?
View 14 RepliesMy mechanic tells me I need the intake manifold gasket replaced (check engine light on, engine surging, running very rough). How much damage can I do to the car by doing this repair myself and screwing it up? I've done lots of repairs on my car before -- brake pads, rotors, replace oil pan. I also have a copy of the manufacturer's shop manual.
View 2 RepliesOur R32 has 2428 miles- and today the check engine light came on and it started to run pretty rough, babied it home and the the light was blinking when I turned into the driveway.. I know that booklet 3.2 in the owners manual is diagnosing catalytic converter issues...I have always used super unleaded, it hasn't even reached the halfway point of the first service.
View 10 RepliesFilled tank with 8 gallons of 91 octane to top off. One hour later noticed car running rough at idle then check engine light comes on. Could it be the coil pack? Car has been running very well until now, and this Gremlin appears. I don't think it's the gas.
2004 -V8 Treg
52,000 on the odometer
Check motor light came on...... Now at every light I stop at.... The engine won't kick off.... Keeps running...
Oil-check
Coolant - check
Gas cap-check
Anywhere in Orange county we have trusted repair/diagnostics?
My 2003 Malibu engine will stop running all of a sudden while I'm driving. It has happened four times and I need to know why before the car kills me. The accelerator pedal goes limp and within ten seconds the check oil light comes on, the check engine light comes on, the power steering quits and then the engine dies. AAA mechanics had this car for four days and couldn't figure it out. My local mechanic has had it for five days and hasn't figured it out. I have looked on the internet and I am not alone. But there is no definitive solution to this problem. BTW, it's not the fuel pump.
View 7 RepliesI started my car this morning and drove to work. It's not that cold. I heard knocking sounds coming from the engine at a stop light. I lightly tapped on the accelerator to hear it better. My commute is short (3 miles), so I gingerly cruised there. I didn't try to accelerate and it didn't seem like I was suffering from loss of power either. I opened the hood and let it idol at work and couldn't really hear the knocking sound.
I downloaded the code when I got to work. After that I started the engine again and it sounded pretty normal. I'm due for my oil/filter change (~5500 miles).
Here are the codes. Any reasons to worry, or is this an one-time thing?
2 Faults Found:
001322 - Camshaft Adj. Bank 1 Intake
P052A - 001 - Cold-Start Timing not Reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
My check engine light came on in my 06 toyota avalon. i had the code read at pepboys and they said it was something like 0300 misfire. i took it a few days later to my personal mechanic and he said nothing popped up when he tested the code. i notice the car (engine) is running a little rough though. What is the firing pattern as i want to try and fix by putting new plugs and coils.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 VW Touareg with 116K miles. Yesterday the check engine light came on and she is running very rough at low RPMs. The manual tells me that there is either a problem with the exahust manifold or an O2 sensor is bad. It feels as if she is struggling for air. When you start the vehicle the check engine light flashes then stays on in the cluster. What can I expect when I take it in to the dealership? Is there anything I can check before I take it in?
View 4 RepliesI have an 03 Passat with about 70K miles on it. My daughter put rug in it this morning (about 7 gallons) and since then the check engine light came on and the car is running really rough at stops. While accelerating, it seems to be fine. It is also getting about 10 mpg less than normal. MIL codes: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, and P0171. He said the P03xx codes were related to misfirings on each cylinder. The P0171 is a bank 1 failure (?). What do those codes really mean and could they be related to bad gas? Sent her off in my TDI JSW so she's not out on the highway if the Passat decides it doesn't want to go anymore.
View 6 RepliesThe check engine light came on after cleaning the engine and the engine runs rough. Where to look. 2007 Hyundai Accord.
View 5 RepliesIn the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
View 4 Replies1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
I have a 2008 Kia Rio, 4 Cyl 1.6L, and recently the check engine light came on and the car started running real rough after getting the timing belt replaced at firestone. I took it back to Firestone and they said that 2 of the cylinders where misfiring and i need to replace the ignition coils and the corresponding spark plugs, but that i also want to get a catalytic converter cleaning or flush or something like that because of the unburnt gas that was running into the converter. Is this true? They want to charge me another 100.00 for the cleaning on top of the 300.00 to replace the 2 ignition coils and spark plugs, should i get this done or can i clean it out myself?
View 6 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8 and I was going to change the spark plugs for her. She said it started running rough and it threw a code and check engine light. She took it for a scan and they told her the number 5 plug was mis-firing. I'm fairly handy and bought a set of the recommended Motorcraft plugs from Rock Auto, AGSF32PM. It also matched the number in the owners manual so I thought I was pretty safe.
Funny thing, when I took the old ones out, they were AGSF22WM's instead. My thinking is they are a colder plug than the supposedly original equipment, but I don't think they've been changed before. They looked well used but the color was good. The truck has about 135K on it.
Long story short, and to get to the question(s), Would there be any reason the factory would have put a different plug in the engine than what is listed? Am I asking for trouble going with a hotter plug than what's been in there (pinging or timing retardation/loss of power)? Am I just overthinking the whole thing and need to put it back together and drive it?
Ok on the way the my 1997 f150 4.6 L 180,000 check engine light started flashing and running rough and then the light went off, Also we took the Aftermarket Dynomax muffler off of it earlier today if that makes any difference, it still has the Cat Converter, New Plugs and Napa Wires.....
View 12 RepliesThe X has been running great, well good enough, lately with no issues. I left work the other morning, and apparently the X didn't want to wake up that early. As soon as I started it up, the check engine light came on and it was running like crap. Had a bad hesitation all the way home. It feels like it is misfiring, but only under load. It doesn't do it if I brake torque it or Rev it up. Only while driving.
The codes I am getting are in the P035x family (typed that way for future searches). P0353 and P0358 are the codes I am getting (along with 4x4 codes for the vacuum solenoid...but that's the solution to other problems not relevant to this!). Being codes for the primary circuit, I popped the hood and checked out the connectors. Both connectors are fine, and tightly connected. I did notice however that cylinders 3 and 8 have other than OEM coil packs on them. These are the only 2 cylinders with those coil packs (they are white and the other 8 cylinders have black coils).
I don't want to just throw parts at it, and I'm not getting a hard miss fire code, just the 2 above. I might try to swap the coils with other cylinders tonight and see if the codes move to those cylinders. It has run like this a few times, but never set a code, and turning it off and back on has "fixed"this in the past.
And just for complete disclosure, while looking for where I saved a password, I found notes from August last year where I pulled codes, and these two codes were present then, with a cylinder 7 hard miss fire code. I replaced the c7 coil with motorcraft cleared the codes, and P0353 and P0358 went away and I haven't seen them since. The plugs are brand new and only have about 1000 miles on them (changed them in September when repairing the misfire and I don't drive it much).
I started out with my 2000 F150 with a 5.4 V8 running rough at idle. It would idle way down slow and then rev up a little over and over. On a couple of occasions it would even die when in drive or reverse. I did finally get a Check Engine light so i put it on my diagnostic program to see what was up. Here is what I got:
P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Indicates Lean
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
p0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
After doing some reading up I checked all my vacuum hoses and cleaned my mass air flow sensor. I then got the same codes again after a few minutes of running. So I went to the next thing that was recommended, the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor. After changing it the truck ran fine for a couple of days, no issues. Then all of the sudden it idled a little funny again and I got a Check Engine Light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire
I reset the light to see if I would get the same again later. Before the light came on again I filled my truck up with gas and it seemed to be running pretty good again. Then a day or so later it set the light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0136 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 Lack of Switches HO2S11 Lean
P1151 Lack of Switches HO2S21 Lean
I went ahead and drove for a few days as it had gotten really cold here and I didn't feel like messing around in my shop since it isn't heated. A couple days ago I needed gas so i filled up again. Suddenly the problem was gone again. Truck ran fine idled fine no missing or odd idling at all. That lasted a day or two before it started acting a little weird again. At that point i was down about 1/8 of a tank from full. I have read that there can be issues with the fuel pump.. I am kind of wondering if that may be it now. But I haven't had to deal with this sort of issue before so I am unsure what to check next. The truck always runs fine off idle, it only seems to have the issue when it is idling. I had reset the codes the last time and i have the light on again now. I haven't checked it yet but I am sure it is going be some combination of what i have had in the past.
I have read that the IAC valve can be an issue as well. I had a problem with mine sticking a couple years ago and when it would do it you could just tap it with a wrench and it would idle up. But it never died like it does now and it would also idle a lot slower than it does. Back then I cleaned the valve and had no more issues with it. The truck has always had times when it would act weird at idle usually after slowing down after being at highway speed. The current issue happens at all temps cold or hot.