Mazda - Miata :: 2000 - Car Running On Two Or Three Cylinders / CEL Came On And Continued To Flash
Jun 6, 2012
Car recently acted like it was running on two or three cylinders and cel came on and continued to flash. The shop that did the repairs is no longer a Mazda dealer, but has a factoy trained tech. Don't know the code #, but was told that there was a low voltage code, and a misfire code. The battery was replaced, throttle body cleaned and a new fuel filter installed. The cel came back on about 25 miles later. They rechecked the codes. Said it could be the converter, and cleared the code again. After about 150 miles, the cel came on again but the car ran normal. Talked to the shop again and was told the the converter problem would have to be serviced at a Mazda dealer. The engine did the running on three cylinder thing again. Since then, it seems to run ok but the light is still flashing. If the OEM converters are fragile are there better options for replacement? The car has 30,000 miles.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I have this vehicle, which keeps blowing out the catalytic converter, its been replaced 3 times in the last month, and the mechanic doesnt know why, he refuses to put another one on it, until he figures this out.
View 3 Replies
The other day I went to turn off my vehicle and it continued running even when key is in off position. I took the key out and it still continued running. I had to disconnect the battery and turn key in on position for vehicle to stall. I do not want to buy any unnecessary parts nor do I want to take apart any unnecessary components.
View 1 Replies
So, something odd happened to me today while driving. I was getting off a highway after about 250 miles of driving, downshifted from 5th to 4th, and when I hit the gas pedal after shifting, nothing. No acceleration. I shift back to 5th. Still nothing. Try revving in neutral, also nothing. I come to a stop on the exit ramp and try to start the car up. It starts up, hits about 1k rpm and stalls. Gas pedal does nothing still. What's up with this? I had it towed to my shop.
Couple tidbits of info: just had the oil changed three days ago. Checked the oil and it seems fine. I have an aftermarket he's unit in the car and lately, it's been a little wonky. When I put use my automatic windows, sometimes the volume will mute for a sec.
My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata base model. 5 speed manual. Power windows but not locks. No traction control. No cruise control. 40,000 miles. Oil changed regularly with full synthetic.
View 6 Replies
My car often backfires on downshifts. It happens as I?m decelerating in gear, and then blip the throttle to match the higher rpm of the lower gear. The car runs well and is well maintained. The spark plugs, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, and cat are all in good order. I?m confident the air/fuel mixture is working as intended by Mazda (at least under normal driving), so I?m not looking for a mechanical culprit. I?m sure it?s my style and frequency of downshift/rev matching which causes the backfires.
It happens anywhere from 1-2 times a week to 1-2 times a day depending on my driving, or on something like 2-5% of all downshifts. Personally, I rather like excitement of the backfires and the exhaust burble which accompanies them, it makes me feel like I'm in a race car. My question is whether frequent backfiring is going to drastically reduce the life of my catalytic converter and O2 sensors.
I don't mind replacing the cat 5 years from now instead of say 10, but I don?t want to have to replace it within the next 10,000 miles or less. My Miata is a 1999 model with 130,000 miles on it. The exhaust system uses stock manifold and muffler but with an AEM performance intake and monsterflow catalytic converter.
View 6 Replies
Last week the shift got stuck in Park. I used the emergency release button to get into Drive. After this happened several times I took it to the mechanic who said the shift needed replacing. Got a new shift. The problem persists. I get stuck in Park about 1 in 6 times.
View 3 Replies
Problem: car cranks but doesn't start then randomly it will start. 2 different shops...first thought maybe battery (no it cranks) but said these cars are notorious for cam sensor problems they didn't have software to diagnose. Brought to dealership again battery (we were finally beat down and replaced battery) ...then brought home if car sat for a few days totally dead needed jumpstart....brought back to dealer they replaced cam sensor and timing belt...went to pick it up and you guessed it....cranked but didn't start....mechanic came out and it started....so after replacing several parts we are back to the same problem intermittent crank without start...
View 4 Replies
I have a Mazda Miata 2001, 152,000 miles. It's developed a metallic scrape from the right rear wheel. When I'm driving about 20 mph it sounds like a scritch every half-a-second or so, and if I'm going faster it just blurs into a metallic scrape. When I tap the brakes, it usually stops, and then it'll come back a little bit later (maybe when I hit a bump?) It comes and goes, but it seems to be more persistent now (or maybe I'm just always listening for it).
I took the wheel off and sprayed brake cleaner everywhere and I thought that had fixed it, but it came back again after a week maybe.
View 4 Replies
I have a 1990 Mazda Miata, and the AC is not working. It has been switched over to R134a. I took it to a mechanic to have it recharged a few weeks ago. He said that one of the o-rings was cracked and so it was leaking around that. He filled it up and put some stop leak in it and for awhile it seemed to work fine. Then it stopped blowing cold air. I took it to a jiffy lube just to have the level of coolant (correct term?) checked. The person there told me that it was very low and was leaking around the valve stems. I tightened the valve stems and re-filled it. After 24 hours it had stopped blowing cold air again. I got a price quote on a new compressor and it is about $500.
So - my question is this - should I just put a new compressor in or is there something cheaper I could try first?
View 10 Replies
I have a 2007 Mazda Miata that I just found standing water under the passenger seat. Took it to dealership the drain is plugged if I had brought the car in when under warranty they would have done the retrofit it needs to fix their lousy design problem for free. I am trying to talk to Mazda and the dealership about them fixing the problem for free. They issued a in house service bulletin but not to the public.
View 6 Replies
I've got a '94 Mazda miata which is in good shape, with among other things a fair number of suspension upgrades. It drives really well, other than the clunk. On the occasional bump it clunks as if something is loose on the driver's side rear. I've checked the shocks, springs, jacked it up and inspected everything I can think of. I'm looking for wisdom from your decades of experience (in your terms wasted time) on what it might be.
View 3 Replies
My Miata stalls out on the highway but not on residential streets. If I open the gas tank ,it starts up again. This has happened with a full tank, 1/2 tank and 1/4 tank. How can I fix this?
View 9 Replies
I have a 91 Miata Auto. I bought it from someone that (I think!) never drain auto trans fluid during its 145K mile life. So last year I replaced all the gaskets/filters and tuned up the car. It runs fine except shifting harsh in cold weather. I have to mention that it seem to have no power and goes very slow on first few minutes.I used a pump to suck trans fluid out. It was so dark (even I dropped the trans pan and replaced filter/gasket). Then I pumped Lucas trans fix fluid in and it seem to improve. What should I do more to reduce the harsh shift condition in cold weather? Or is there a booster module need to be replaced?
View 6 Replies
I have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
View 2 Replies
So i was cleaning my 2007 mazda miata and i noticed one wheel has some fairly deep scratched grooves inside of it. I inspected all the other tires and the other front tire has similar marks but they are way way more of a surface/barely there scratches. The rear wheels are not scratched. I am also hearing a rotational noise when i drive. It gets faster as I accelerate and slower when I brake. I don't know anything about cars.
View 6 Replies
My husband,who is an engineer and has done all of our car maintenance for decades is stumped by our 2000 Mazda MPV. He replaced the catalytic converter and put every thing back together, but the car won't run. Will start, but dies right away. Took off new cat,and runs with that off, but not sure why it won't run with the cat on.
View 4 Replies
For the past maybe 10 months, my car has been giving me new AC problems. The AC runs just fine when I'm driving normally or on the highway (basically without stopping for long periods of time and out of traffic). But when I stop for a long time (traffic, drive-thru, long light), my AC begins to run hot. To be more specific, the car actually begins to feel like it is running with more difficulty, as the engine starts running loudly and then I know that it is game over and it begins spitting out hot air. I generally just turn the AC off and put the windows down until I can get moving again, and then the AC is colder when I turn it back on.
Now, about 5-6 months ago I took it to my Mazda guy and he checked it out. Of course, it did not do what I wanted exactly, showing him what really happens when it sits for too long. Anyways, he said that everything seemed to be fine & both fans were working, but that the freon (r134) was low and he charged up the system and added some freon. After this, the AC was running MUCH cooler than it was before and the problem stopped.
That brings me to the last couple months; the problem has returned. This indicates to me, perhaps, that the freon has leaked out at this point, so it needs some more r134, but with dye, so that they can get a sniffer and pick the leak. Additionally, the engine is not overheating or anything of that sort, so I don't think it has to do with the radiator or coolant. I have essentially replaced almost every other part of the AC system in the car within the last 3 years. I have replaced the condenser, one of the fans, the water pump, hoses, everything you could imagine that isn't the compressor or the second fan.
View 6 Replies
It's a UK VW Passat year 2000 with 1.8i longitudinal engine layout. Car has ABS
I discovered that the brakes are not releasing quickly after application. Examples where this has been noticed:
When braking and accelerating at the same time to dry brakes after puddles. Noticeable lack of power to re-accelerate when you release the brake pedal, presumably due to continued braking. Noticeable continuation of braking when trailbraking into a corner (ok sometimes I'm a bit of a racer in a family car).
What concerns me is when the snow, ice or heavy rain comes back that I might find sudden instability if the brakes aren't releasing after slowing for a corner or that worse still I'm destined for total brake servo failure.
There are no ABS related error codes although in the ice and snow I did find that the ABS fired until the pedal raised stiff and all 4 wheels just locked up (that was a fun junction crossing).
I have noticed that the drainage ducts in the bulkhead are blocked but I've never had water enter the car so I don't think it's water in the brake servo although this could have happened prior to me owning it I guess.
Working theories:
Due to slave cylinder corrosion and calipers are releasing slowly
Due to brake servo fault - either water ingress of vacuum leak
View 3 Replies
I just been told my volvo 850 estate is backfiring and running on 4 cylinders instead of 5. I have been told he will have to run diagnostics and go from there.
View 5 Replies
I have a supra that is only running on the first and last cylinder. It was running poor and I pulled off the spark plug wires to see how it ran. After more testing I removed all 4 middle plug wires and it kept running the exact same. What would be causing this? The plugs and wires are new.
View 19 Replies
Friend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
View 2 Replies
