Mazda - Miata :: 2007 - Water Standing Under Passenger Seat
Feb 11, 2011
I have a 2007 Mazda Miata that I just found standing water under the passenger seat. Took it to dealership the drain is plugged if I had brought the car in when under warranty they would have done the retrofit it needs to fix their lousy design problem for free. I am trying to talk to Mazda and the dealership about them fixing the problem for free. They issued a in house service bulletin but not to the public.
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So i was cleaning my 2007 mazda miata and i noticed one wheel has some fairly deep scratched grooves inside of it. I inspected all the other tires and the other front tire has similar marks but they are way way more of a surface/barely there scratches. The rear wheels are not scratched. I am also hearing a rotational noise when i drive. It gets faster as I accelerate and slower when I brake. I don't know anything about cars.
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So, something odd happened to me today while driving. I was getting off a highway after about 250 miles of driving, downshifted from 5th to 4th, and when I hit the gas pedal after shifting, nothing. No acceleration. I shift back to 5th. Still nothing. Try revving in neutral, also nothing. I come to a stop on the exit ramp and try to start the car up. It starts up, hits about 1k rpm and stalls. Gas pedal does nothing still. What's up with this? I had it towed to my shop.
Couple tidbits of info: just had the oil changed three days ago. Checked the oil and it seems fine. I have an aftermarket he's unit in the car and lately, it's been a little wonky. When I put use my automatic windows, sometimes the volume will mute for a sec.
My car is a 2006 Mazda Miata base model. 5 speed manual. Power windows but not locks. No traction control. No cruise control. 40,000 miles. Oil changed regularly with full synthetic.
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My car often backfires on downshifts. It happens as I?m decelerating in gear, and then blip the throttle to match the higher rpm of the lower gear. The car runs well and is well maintained. The spark plugs, MAF sensor, O2 sensors, and cat are all in good order. I?m confident the air/fuel mixture is working as intended by Mazda (at least under normal driving), so I?m not looking for a mechanical culprit. I?m sure it?s my style and frequency of downshift/rev matching which causes the backfires.
It happens anywhere from 1-2 times a week to 1-2 times a day depending on my driving, or on something like 2-5% of all downshifts. Personally, I rather like excitement of the backfires and the exhaust burble which accompanies them, it makes me feel like I'm in a race car. My question is whether frequent backfiring is going to drastically reduce the life of my catalytic converter and O2 sensors.
I don't mind replacing the cat 5 years from now instead of say 10, but I don?t want to have to replace it within the next 10,000 miles or less. My Miata is a 1999 model with 130,000 miles on it. The exhaust system uses stock manifold and muffler but with an AEM performance intake and monsterflow catalytic converter.
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Last week the shift got stuck in Park. I used the emergency release button to get into Drive. After this happened several times I took it to the mechanic who said the shift needed replacing. Got a new shift. The problem persists. I get stuck in Park about 1 in 6 times.
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Problem: car cranks but doesn't start then randomly it will start. 2 different shops...first thought maybe battery (no it cranks) but said these cars are notorious for cam sensor problems they didn't have software to diagnose. Brought to dealership again battery (we were finally beat down and replaced battery) ...then brought home if car sat for a few days totally dead needed jumpstart....brought back to dealer they replaced cam sensor and timing belt...went to pick it up and you guessed it....cranked but didn't start....mechanic came out and it started....so after replacing several parts we are back to the same problem intermittent crank without start...
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I have this vehicle, which keeps blowing out the catalytic converter, its been replaced 3 times in the last month, and the mechanic doesnt know why, he refuses to put another one on it, until he figures this out.
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I have a Mazda Miata 2001, 152,000 miles. It's developed a metallic scrape from the right rear wheel. When I'm driving about 20 mph it sounds like a scritch every half-a-second or so, and if I'm going faster it just blurs into a metallic scrape. When I tap the brakes, it usually stops, and then it'll come back a little bit later (maybe when I hit a bump?) It comes and goes, but it seems to be more persistent now (or maybe I'm just always listening for it).
I took the wheel off and sprayed brake cleaner everywhere and I thought that had fixed it, but it came back again after a week maybe.
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I have a 1990 Mazda Miata, and the AC is not working. It has been switched over to R134a. I took it to a mechanic to have it recharged a few weeks ago. He said that one of the o-rings was cracked and so it was leaking around that. He filled it up and put some stop leak in it and for awhile it seemed to work fine. Then it stopped blowing cold air. I took it to a jiffy lube just to have the level of coolant (correct term?) checked. The person there told me that it was very low and was leaking around the valve stems. I tightened the valve stems and re-filled it. After 24 hours it had stopped blowing cold air again. I got a price quote on a new compressor and it is about $500.
So - my question is this - should I just put a new compressor in or is there something cheaper I could try first?
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Car recently acted like it was running on two or three cylinders and cel came on and continued to flash. The shop that did the repairs is no longer a Mazda dealer, but has a factoy trained tech. Don't know the code #, but was told that there was a low voltage code, and a misfire code. The battery was replaced, throttle body cleaned and a new fuel filter installed. The cel came back on about 25 miles later. They rechecked the codes. Said it could be the converter, and cleared the code again. After about 150 miles, the cel came on again but the car ran normal. Talked to the shop again and was told the the converter problem would have to be serviced at a Mazda dealer. The engine did the running on three cylinder thing again. Since then, it seems to run ok but the light is still flashing. If the OEM converters are fragile are there better options for replacement? The car has 30,000 miles.
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I've got a '94 Mazda miata which is in good shape, with among other things a fair number of suspension upgrades. It drives really well, other than the clunk. On the occasional bump it clunks as if something is loose on the driver's side rear. I've checked the shocks, springs, jacked it up and inspected everything I can think of. I'm looking for wisdom from your decades of experience (in your terms wasted time) on what it might be.
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My Miata stalls out on the highway but not on residential streets. If I open the gas tank ,it starts up again. This has happened with a full tank, 1/2 tank and 1/4 tank. How can I fix this?
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I have a 91 Miata Auto. I bought it from someone that (I think!) never drain auto trans fluid during its 145K mile life. So last year I replaced all the gaskets/filters and tuned up the car. It runs fine except shifting harsh in cold weather. I have to mention that it seem to have no power and goes very slow on first few minutes.I used a pump to suck trans fluid out. It was so dark (even I dropped the trans pan and replaced filter/gasket). Then I pumped Lucas trans fix fluid in and it seem to improve. What should I do more to reduce the harsh shift condition in cold weather? Or is there a booster module need to be replaced?
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I have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
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I recently noticed a humming noise coming from the passenger side on my Mazda Protege 2000 ES . I suspected it was the water pump, so I took the car to my mechanic. He inspected the coolant reservoir and it was empty. He also checked the noise and the area were the pump is, and told me that the water pump had to be replaced.
My dad told me that his 1994 Sentra had the water pump replaced but none of these things had to be done and that it was unnecessary. But then I thought, every car is different.
I was in shock with how much the repair would cost, so he then gave me another quote with just the timing belt and water pump replacement for $503, but this time he said that he will not give me any warranty for the repairs because of the tensioner.
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I have something really strange that has happened to me... two days ago I noticed a small puddle of water in the back off my Prius on the floor behind the passenger seat. There is absolutely no water anyway else..I've thoroughly searched. I dried it up as much as I can but it seems to continue to get wet - not to the extent it was the first time I saw it, but when I press down with my hand I can hear water in the carpet. I've used a wet vac to suck up as much as I can... but I come back and it is still wet again.... What could be leaking... again.. absolutely nothing else is wet.. and nothing could have spilled that would have produced that much water.
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Looking for photos where the A/C drain tube is located for accent 2008? Water is spilling inside my car and i think the a/c drain is clogged.
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Ok; so yesterday when going to the bank (to pay for my car loan no less -.-) My wife let me know (well started yelling more like) that there was water coming out of the dash all over the carpet. It was 40 outside so I was using the heat; had it set to 76. I tore apart the flooring and found where it was leaking
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So I got in to my car today to goto school and noticed it smelled kinda musky. I happened to look behind the passenger side seat and there was 3in. of water on the floor so i looked up at the sunroof and there wasn't any stains or anything from water as well as the doors windows everything... It's the strangest thing I've seen the only thing wet is on the floor...
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In April of this year I had a large amount of water in the rear passenger area..Long story short it was the pollen filter..Dealership got it covered with my extended warranty, but yet I had to pay 1200.00 to replace the carpet..They also replaced the Control unit?? Wiring harness and housing...So, now fast forward to 2 days ago. I had a FLOOD in the rear DRIVER seat this time.I called to let them know and they said to bring it in Monday for emergency appt..My plan was to drop it off Sunday evening..during the night of rain we had Saturday I hear a god awful noise at 4 Am..My car is all lit up in orange lights.We had to disc the battery to stop the noise and lights..later that morning we got the wet-vac and hooked up the battery again. It started fine, but then all the lights went crazy and everything got all whacked out.
My trunk no longer closes...so we disc the battery and call AAA to tow to dealer..They just called me now..of course they need it for a day or 2 to determine the problem and see if it is covered! it damn well better be..they got it covered last time. I am beyond irate at this point. No doubt the car is in the same condition as before...main computer is obviously screwed up again..If they think I am paying 1 penny they are sadly mistaken..twice in 2 months?? Something is definitely hinky here..last time before they determined it was the pollen filter, they told me they cleared all drainage area and ruled out all that so they can't tell me that was the problem this time..They can't get clogged in 2 months when for the past 5 years I have NEVER had this issue.
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I have a 2016 4 Motion 2.0T auto transmission with less than 9000 miles on it. During heavy rains or when I drive through "deep" puddles of standing water the car will start to make a rubbing noise. It seem to be from the front passenger side. It will fade away as I coast or slow down but on acceleration it because louder.
I've checked twice now to see if there was anything stuck in the wheel well or axel area. I've made sure the wheels are aired correctly, balanced and the lugs are TQ'd to spec. I can not come up with any info as to why it only happens in the rain.
There is no power drop and I can't feel any type of resistance while driving, the noise being made would be best described like a mud flap of small branch is stuck in the wheel well. At times on the high way it sounds like I'm riding on a rumble strip.
The only difference in the car since I bought it, is the engine now sounds deeper and I can hear a more defined idle, I chalked that up to it breaking in and haven't thought anything of it. The car is also completely stock.
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