I have a 1987 Mercedes 560sl. Has new fuel pumps, fuel filter, spark plugs, air filter, fuel strainer cleaned, fluids at proper level, and new brakes/rotors. Runs fine until I get to a hill. Then when I push the accelerator it bogs down and then dies. Continues this and will only idle.
View 2 RepliesI got a Mercedes Benz, SL560, US style, 8 cylinders, from 1987, mileage around 130 000I got the camshafts, rockers, and valve changed these days as the lifters were a little worn out as I was told. So I decided to do it now than later. But since the mechanic changed them I get a bad knocking noise and shaking at start up. It disappears after up to 5 minutes. The mechanic said he only changed the parts. That's it. Nothing else done. When I was there doing the work I say him using the chain. I left the shop as I could not wait till the work was done.
Someone told me that the clearance of the valve has to be checked and adjusted. Mechanics say that it is not possible as my engine is W117 and there is nothing to adjust. It will do it automatically. I took the car back as clearly that mechanic could not do anything else then for the car. He also does not want the car back. He hung up when we tried to ask him to check the car again (like checking the timing chain). Well. In between I asked another shop to check it. They replaced only 3 rockers again. They were new!!! There was a slight damage on them. I guess this is the part of the rockers where you put the screwdriver on. That is why it was a bit "damaged".This second mechanic said I should just drive the car as the problem will be less in ... dont know when. Hundred of miles, days, weeks?
I am not satisfied with this situation and therefore I am here to ask what the problem might be. This wasnt there before the camshaft was changed!I cannot really make the mechanic do what I am asking for. I am now in an asian country and they do what they wanna do. I am only there to pay high prices and nothing is done what I wanted. With this mechanic I am trying to get him to check the timing chain (chain tension) and plastic guide rails? Could this cause the problem or also something else?I wanna know what it might be so that I can tell mechanic when he picks up the car.
2001 MB E320. While traveling at the posted speed, 75mph the accelerator quits working. The speed control will still work and the accelerator will work after some play and time. When I stop the car and turn off the ignition and then start the car again the accelerator works fine. This has happened only twice but I'm afraid it will continue and happen more often. I traced the accelerator cable to a small box on the left side pf the engine.
View 1 RepliesHot or cold car always starts,Idles perfect , then RPM drops, Idles rough and stalls. Econometer moves to Red area.car will easily restart and drives well,it also idles well. Once engine is shut down, even for a short while, It does the same thing again. Car is used for short trips. Ambient Temperature 80 degrees. Once running car is perfect at all speeds and idles smoothly. Hero 1987 MB 560 sel ....
View 19 RepliesI have a beautiful 1987 560SL. My husband and I bought it about 17 years ago and lovingly refer to her as our mid-life crisis car. Truth be told, we're a bit past "mid" life now and have decided to sell it and let someone else enjoy her. Last summer she started to have an annoying issue and we "thought" it was fixed, but right after I started advertising, she started acting up again.The engine simply dies while driving. It always seems to happen when I've only driven about 5 miles and going rather slow - 20 to 30 mph. She'll start back up after a try or 2 and be fine. We took her to a local shop and the mechanic said one fuel pump was shot and the other was not working properly so we replaced both and all seemed fine the rest of the summer. We garage her for the winter as we live in the Rockies and she's not the most practical car to be driving in the snow and ice. This summer she started right up and was doing well until a few weeks ago - same problem.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Echo. When pushing down on the accelerator, sometimes it won't accelerate. It slows down, almost as if it's going to shut down. I pump the gas pedal, and it'll rev back up to move. It only does this when I'm stopped, like at a stop sign or stop light, and if it's been sitting for any length of time. (e.g. in the garage over night, at my workplace all day, in a friend's driveway for a few hours). A friend checked the battery, and it wasn't snuggly fitted in place the way it should be, so he put extra bolts in to hold it in place good and tight. Before that, though, my car had been sitting for a month, and when I tried to jump it, it wouldn't even turn over. That battery, though, is good and I just got it in Jan 2015. My friend also checked the alternator, and it's also in good shape.
View 3 RepliesI am trying to convince my father into buying the VW Toureg. He has a Mercedes SUV, and he tells me that it is way too expensive for a VW. I like his SUV, but i own a VW Jetta GLI 1.8t. I love this car. My mom has a Merc. C230 Kompressor, and i guess thats the comparison to the Jetta, i hate her car.
View 24 RepliesVehicle: 2002 Toyota RAV4 171k Miles, Second Owner
Problem: When traveling at highway speeds around 60 it will be smooth. When pushing down the accelerator rather aggressively it will shift into 3rd Gear and some times lose power and I actually slow down while the RPMs increase.
I added a little bit of Lucas Slip Stop to the Transmission and it seemed to work but I'm still encountering the problem. Could this be my transmission's 3rd gear starting to fail?
I have a 2001 Mercedes E class, 4Matic. Over the last 7 years the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System)/EPS (Electronic Stability Program)/BAS (Braking Assist Program) warning light comes on and when I stop the car and start again, the light goes away. When this light comes on, only thing I noticed is the cruise control does not work, otherwise, no other problem. I took it to the service station one time, but that light did not come on and they did not do anything.The car has 105,000 miles. Now, when the light comes on it stays on longer and sometimes, I have turn the car on and off several times before light will go away.I am afraid to take it to the Mercedes dealer, as they might find a problem when no problem is there. Whether this is just glitch in the software or there is a real problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1989 Mercedes 300F, automatic transmission, with 175,000 miles (give or take). It runs great, starts well, we have no problem driving it 30 miles back and forth on back roads up to 60 mph. The problem seems to be when driving 40 miles at 75 mph. At that point, it will start to run rough, and then will not go over 40 mph without whining. The first time this happened, I had a leak in the transmission fixed and fluid put in. The second time, I had the fluid and filter changed, a new alternator, and a complete tune up. For a month after that we drove it for miles but not on the highway, with no problem. I thought I would chance it on a longer trip, got 40 miles down the highway at 75 mph when suddenly it started acting up and had to call a tow truck. When the tow truck arrived, we did not see any fluid under the car. It's been sitting in the driveway and now there are fluid leaks (appears to be oil). So, does it sound like something in the transmission, or maybe a bad alternator?
View 9 RepliesWhile on way to parts store car started acting like it was running out of gas. A half block from gas station it quit . I walked to station got gas put in the tank the engine would crank but would not start. I got towed home and still will not start. It will crank but that's it. 3.0 L inline 6 300 E ...
View 5 RepliesThe check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
View 19 RepliesI have a 1999 Explorer. 5.0 V8 auto AWD. Motor bogs down when going up hill. Smoke coming from under vehicle. Recently tuned up & oil change. 157,000 miles. No warning lights. Not over heating. No burnt smell from oil or trans fluid. No leaks from motor or trans. Oil & trans fluid look clean. I have a little mechanical knowledge. Someone said it could possibly be a bad catalytic converter.
View 2 RepliesI have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
View 3 RepliesI have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
My brakes squeak from time to time, particularly backing up, but also braking forward. My mechanic said I have plenty of brake pad and nothing is being damaged. He said he has often seen the "squeaky brakes" problem in Mercedes and it is often difficult to pinpoint which wheel (or wheels) would be the cause of the squeaking (sound like metal on metal). Why this is happening?
View 2 RepliesHave an '82 MB 300D. Started noticing a constant knocking noise from the rear anytime I got it over 35rpm on an incline. Subsided if I pulled over and let it sit for 20mins or so. Now knocking just comes up randomly when accelerating. Goes days without doing it. Eases up when I let off the accelerator. Sound just like engine knocking but at rear of vehicle.
View 2 RepliesMy 1994 mercedes C220 stalls at idle. the local mercedes dealer told me that it is caused by the alternator overcharging. can this be true??
View 2 RepliesI have this sprinter cargo van and i can't find the car battery, but i found a car battery inside the actual vehicle with a wire going towards the engine,...... It's a 2012 and the car starts up but its starting to hesitate when i try turning it on ..... and there is nothing hooked up to the negative side of the battery.... I'm wondering if this is safe, and if i ever need to jump start it, how would i do it?........ don't know if the negative side of the battery should have something hooked up to it or not .....
View 11 RepliesMy 95 sls started having problems with Its turn signal a while ago. The dash lights show that it is on and the turn signal reminder dings at me. The lights all function properly, however at random the hazard light and the left turn signal on the dash will light up and wont stop dinging at me until I signal left. It will continue to do this to me for a random amount of time and it getting really annoying. Why this is happening?
View 3 RepliesI have a 89 Mercedes 190e. The car stays running and will drive but after so long starts acting like it's starving for fuel. I have spark and nothing wrong with fuel filter but when tested there was no pressure what's odd is the fuel pump was tested and it works fine all the lines have been cleared I'm stumped what else can I check...
View 13 Replies