4 cyldr has very rough idle along with engine shake. Just started doing this. I replaced the cam sensor a few months ago and all has been well. But it started running so rough, almost like it jumped time. I was disconnecting sensors to see if motor idle changed and when I unplugged mass air flow sensor on air filter intake tube, nothing changed. Could this cause such a dramatic idle ?
View 2 RepliesWhen my Camry is in DRIVE and sitting at a red light for example, my car will shake. It feels like it idles rough. If I put it in neutral the shaking goes away... only when in drive.
I took it to Firestone who mentioned I had a dirty throttle body. So I get this cleaned and the shaking has significantly reduced. However after a few months I'm back at square one. Dirty throttle body and care is shaking again. (Yes air filter is clean)
I noticed two things that I think might be contributing... After 5,000 miles my oil is pretty black and very low. (Time for an oil change) When I swipe my finger on the exhaust pipe, its really black but no black smoke comes out. I don't see any oil leaks outside of the engine, its actually pretty clean.
So two questions, is the low oil and black exhaust pipe normal? Why would my throttle body keep getting dirty?
I have a 2000 VW Passat with the 1.8L turbo. When I bought it, the timing belt was off 1 notch. After I fixed the timing issue the car still didn't idle well. I was told that the throttle body was causing the problem so I replaced it. The car ran good for about 5 minutes after I replaced the throttle body. After I hooked up a OBD-II scan tool up to it instantly started running rough. The car runs at 1100 rpm at a cold start-up but when the car warms up it idles down to 850 +-75 rpms. I cleaned the MAF sensor, and it still runs rough. Car has 180,000 miles and MPGs are also down.
View 2 RepliesThe check engine light came on in my 2000 Jetta and the engine power suddenly decreased noticeably. Got worse quickly and was idling rough, like it was about to stall out (but didn't). Took it to dealership, they said spark plugs were the problem and replaced. All seemed normal driving home, but after 10 minutes, same problem: check engine flashing, weak engine (trouble on hills), and a rough idle.
Two questions: what could it be?
and is it safe to drive back to dealership (~10 miles) or might that cause further damage?
Recently bought a 2001 Accent that has been experiencing a 'rough idle' for the last few weeks. Basically, after I've driven the car for a few minutes (from a cold engine position) and then stop at a stop light or stop sign, I can hear the engine get louder and the car starts to vibrate slightly, after I've driven for about 15 minutes at higher speeds and then stop again I can actually see the steering wheel shaking when I take my hands off of it. If i put the car in park when I am stopped and the engine is on, the idle calms down quite a bit. The weird part is that when I first start driving the car in the morning, the rough idle problem doesn't happen until about 5 minutes of steady driving - so when the engine is colder I don't experience the problem, The problem is not that serious, and Ive already brought it into a dealer who cleaned out fuel injection, gave me a major tune up and replaced all the spark plugs, but the problem still persists. I am gonna bring it back to them but they seem a bit lost to be honest. Other than this the car is driving normally when I am not idling.
View 14 Repliesi recently changed my engine oil and filter from carquest brand to quaker state and about 500 miles later, i started having some issues like, rough idle and loud ticking and bottom engine noise. is that just a coincidence or any problems with this oil? 1.6L D.O.H.C.
View 2 RepliesI started out with my 2000 F150 with a 5.4 V8 running rough at idle. It would idle way down slow and then rev up a little over and over. On a couple of occasions it would even die when in drive or reverse. I did finally get a Check Engine light so i put it on my diagnostic program to see what was up. Here is what I got:
P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Indicates Lean
P0171 System Too Lean Bank 1
p0174 System Too Lean Bank 2
After doing some reading up I checked all my vacuum hoses and cleaned my mass air flow sensor. I then got the same codes again after a few minutes of running. So I went to the next thing that was recommended, the upstream bank 2 O2 sensor. After changing it the truck ran fine for a couple of days, no issues. Then all of the sudden it idled a little funny again and I got a Check Engine Light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0300 Random/Multiple Misfire
I reset the light to see if I would get the same again later. Before the light came on again I filled my truck up with gas and it seemed to be running pretty good again. Then a day or so later it set the light again. This time:
P0171 Bank 1 Lean
P0174 Bank 2 Lean
P0136 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0156 O2 Circuit Malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 Lack of Switches HO2S11 Lean
P1151 Lack of Switches HO2S21 Lean
I went ahead and drove for a few days as it had gotten really cold here and I didn't feel like messing around in my shop since it isn't heated. A couple days ago I needed gas so i filled up again. Suddenly the problem was gone again. Truck ran fine idled fine no missing or odd idling at all. That lasted a day or two before it started acting a little weird again. At that point i was down about 1/8 of a tank from full. I have read that there can be issues with the fuel pump.. I am kind of wondering if that may be it now. But I haven't had to deal with this sort of issue before so I am unsure what to check next. The truck always runs fine off idle, it only seems to have the issue when it is idling. I had reset the codes the last time and i have the light on again now. I haven't checked it yet but I am sure it is going be some combination of what i have had in the past.
I have read that the IAC valve can be an issue as well. I had a problem with mine sticking a couple years ago and when it would do it you could just tap it with a wrench and it would idle up. But it never died like it does now and it would also idle a lot slower than it does. Back then I cleaned the valve and had no more issues with it. The truck has always had times when it would act weird at idle usually after slowing down after being at highway speed. The current issue happens at all temps cold or hot.
I have a 2003 SC430 with 170,000 miles on the odo. When at idle, the car shakes a little. I notice it the most when at a red light. But if I put the car in N, the shaking goes away. It happens with the most severity when in D and with my foot on the brake. I'm assuming the shake is normal for a car of this age and mileage, but i'd like to eliminate it.
View 10 RepliesHere's another idle problem. I have a 1992 aerostar, 3.0 2wd with 245,000 kms.
I have been working on this van for weeks now getting it ready for summer. I have done a complete tune up consisting of wires, plugs, rotor, cap, pcv and all filters including gas, air and oil. I have checked the vacuum hoses as best as I could and all seem fine.
Here.s the problem. I start the van and it idles great. The engine doesn't move. After a few minutes it slows down a bit and starts to shake. Once it is completely warm and has been driven for an hour, it shakes noticeably. It has lots of power and gets good mileage. It never has a starting problem and never seems to be close to stalling. I am suspecting it is one of the various pollution control items such as the MAF, IAC or 02 sensor. Is there a way to check them at home?
While under the van, I noticed a cable that goes from the transmission into the firewall. A bracket holding it in place broke and the cable was rubbing against the exhaust pipe and burned through. Could this be related? I taped up the cable and tied it up and away from the pipe.
I have a 2007 F150 with the 5.4 FFV. Early last summer my truck started acting like the harmonic balancer was going bad, when it was hot out my engine would shake at an idle. Then in October it threw a check engine light, wouldn't get over 20 mph and was shaking the entire truck. The codes said my timing was out so I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners, which were bad on the passenger side. When I started it back up it ran rough, and the check engine light came back on with a "bank A over-retarded" code.
So I went back in thinking I had put the chain on one tooth off. Got it back together and it ran the same way. After doing some soul searching on this website I determined the VCT Solenoid for the driver's side may be bad, and I went back in a third time and replaced the solenoid. Now it runs worse than it did the first time, it won't even idle and it is nearly impossible to start in the first place... This truck only has 103,000 miles and was running great before this...
I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
So I have 95 1 liter 5 speed, it runs fine and smooth first thing, but once it gets warm it idles rough, poor mpg 33-37 and eats a lot of oil have to say a quart every 300 miles does not leak oil, does not smoke, need new muff and resonater.
Check engine light is not on. can i hook it up to hand held code reader .? 95 is it obd 2?
I just bought a used 98 chevy metro. I drove it over a total of 30 miles on test drives. Every thing was as it should be. Now it dies at idle and is difficult to restart. I have to wait til it cools down completely to get it to fire again.
View 1 RepliesMy wifes 2000 chevy metro is either stalling out or bogging out . But usually happens after a drive on the highway 15 miles or so on a hot Arizona day, then say shut off at a gas station, then, go to restart it and sometimes probs starting, but not always. Then, while driving , it will be fine then stall and fall on its face. You can floor it and it won't go anywhere, but it will idle ok. If its cool outside, no issues. I am thinking O2 sensor or temp sensor. It runs real good otherwise this recent issue.
View 5 RepliesWhere is the cam sensor on a 2000 chevy metro 4 cyl. ?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 pontiac grand am with a 2.4 L engine it is automatic transmission. Th issue is i just bought the car from a lot thinking it was an easy fix. What happens is when i start the car it goes from a 1k idle to a 500 or lower and sounds like it might die or if i am at a stop light and decelerate too fast it also feels like its going to die and has a few times unless i keep the gas pedal pressed down. I read the codes at my local store they said it was a engine misfire, o2 sensor the front one, and the map sensor.
My farther works at a pull and save which is a lot to pull used parts from cars hes brought a used ignition coil, used boots , i bought new spark plugs and nothing was fixed there. we have replaced the maf sensor and the map sensor both with used parts neither fixed the problem. I am at my wits end here i cannot afford to take it to the shops around here and am trying to get this fixed to get back and forth to work. I may have left out parts that have been replaced, also as far as lights are concerned the check engine soon light is on .
I have a 2000 chevy metro, whenever i start it up after it's been sitting for a little while a white smoke comes out of the back of it. zWhy this is doing it and how much approx.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Accent with about 150,000 miles on it. Recently I have noticed that when my car is sitting in an intersection, the car appears to idle roughly. I would't exactly say that the car is idling rough, cause it stays at a consistent RPM while in drive or park, but the engine gets louder and the steering wheel starts to vibrating. When I slightly step on the gas, the vibration goes away. Also, when I put my car in park or neutral, the car quiets down and the vibrating stops.
I was wondering if it could be the throttle position sensor, or maybe a broken motor mount, but I haven't had a chance to look into it it. I did replace the purge control valve last week, which slightly improved the vibrations.
I have a 2000 jetta 2.0, and the idle seems to rough and when I start the car it seems like I might stall.
View 9 RepliesI have 2000 ford windstar with 3.8 engine. I have been reading up on the idle problems with these vans. However, most responses are in regard to the engine stalling and/or it trips a code. My does not do this. Sometimes the idle is rough and other times everything is smooth. I am thinking it may be an egr valve or dpfe valve.
View 5 Replies