Well, it looks like I have an interesting issue. My car is an automatic and it starts in second gear, a lot. It seems to do it more, when it's warmer, so would that most likely be a faulty valve body.
View 14 RepliesI bought 95 metro 3 cyc. 5 sd. bad tranny. The clutch is shot spins when put in 4th w e-brake on the tranny will not shift in to 3rd or 5th gear. Seller also gave me a different tranny says 2nd is shot and also a rebuild kit ( bearings,seals,secniorz) same as the one in the photo from dr bills tranny rebuild. What are my options for the tranny not going in to gear and what the easy way I should go.
I've never rebuild a tranny but I've done just a bout everything else to a car u can think of from rebuild motors to brakes and bodywork. Mainly want to no what the problem is with it not going in to gear. I know I will have to split case to find out for sure and I am going to start with the one that not in car. That supposedly 2nd don't work.
My 99 V6 with Tip just started to malfunction this past weekend. By malfunction, I mean when I shift over into Tip mode, the display remains on automatic and even shifting up and down will not change the tranny gear.
I was driving with the cruise on and shifted into Tip mode to slow down for a toll booth ( slow to 25 and not stop all the way). When I got through the booth, I hit resume on the cruise forgetting I had shifted into tip and the car revved back up to 65 mph in 3rd gear for about 5 seconds ( I had the stereo cranking and couldn't hear the engine)before I realized what I had done.
I tried to upshift in Tip but it wouldn't let me so I had to go back to full auto setting where it works fine.
Is it possible to burn out a fuse or circuit of some kind by doing a dipshizit maneuver like that? The car runs great otherwise and still is getting low to mid 20's mpg in spite of the ethanol crap.
BTW, just had the computer reflashed last week after putting a new battery in because the Throttle Body was not working properly.
I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
View 8 RepliesI have a 93 Geo Metro. I have replaced the alternator and belt but still receive a squealing sound when the car starts up. The Squeal will go away after the car has ran for a minute but will come back if I turn on too much electrical devices. Is there a censor that can go, making the alternator hard to turn, causing the belt to squeal.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1994 Geo Metro that I picked up a little over a year ago. I had to swap engines and replaced the clutch at the same time. This included a turned flywheel and new pressure plate. I also replaced all seals and gaskets except for the distributor O-ring and the head gasket. This included the crank and cam seals on the front and rear of the engine as well as the seal housing gaskets/oil pump gasket. I drove it for several months and then the distributor O-ring began to leak oil profusely which is a common problem with these cars. The distributor is keyed directly into the camshaft on the rear side of the engine so it sits sideways directly above the transmission/engine interface. Some of the leaking oil went right down into the clutch area. Being that adding a cup of synthetic oil every day was still cheaper than driving one of my pickups, I just kept driving the car until the new O-ring arrived and added oil. Once the O-ring was replaced, the oil leak stopped.
I had a couple episodes of clutch slipping not long after the leak was fixed and then everything seemed fine. I figured that some oil got down there and wore off after the clutch stopped slipping. The car drove fine for about a year until I began noticing the clutch slipping under load in 4th and 5th gear. I had some suspicions of this for a week or so before it became more obvious that the clutch was most definitely slipping. I have a new clutch kit and a spare flywheel that I plan to have machined in the next few days. I have been driving it a couple weeks around town and just babying it so the clutch won't slip.
I was also told by some that I should intentionally burn the clutch some to remove any glaze build up on the clutch disc or flywheel/pressure plate surfaces. They told me to put the parking brake on or put the front bumper up against a tree and burn the clutch. I originally figured this was a bad idea but decided to try it yesterday, figuring I had little to lose. I did it just until I began to see smoke and smell it and then stopped. I let everything cool off for an hour and then took the car for a drive. The clutch was no longer slipping at all so I am wondering if this fixed the problem for now or simply delayed the issue for a short while. I am sure I took some life off the clutch by doing this but....
I just bought a 2001 Toyota Echo and wondering the procedure for checking the automatic tranny fluid. It doesn't say a word in the owner manual on how to do it. I know most vehicles you have it warmed up and check it in Park while idling.
View 1 RepliesI bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
View 2 RepliesI notice it happens driving between 20-30 mph and accelerating very slowly. Rpm around 1500. The tranny changes gears up to to 3rd or 4th gear and the vibration starts. If i accelerate, it goes away. During quick acceleration I never notice this vibration. Also if I drive the car in manual and go thru the gears i never notice the stutter. The problem feels like driving a manual car in a higher gear at a low speed and need to downshift.
View 14 RepliesI recently replaced the transmission in my car. I put new oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and plugs in it. Got everything back together and now it won't stay running. It starts but will not stay running . I pulled the plugs out to find they were the wring ones that a was sold So They gave me the correct ones. Still doing the same thing. I've checked every connection. All are plugged in all lines are hooked up.
View 4 RepliesI have 2002 celica gts 2zzge with bad tranny 6 gear is gone and 2 second grinds. My question will be how can I fix this tranny for cheap or can I swap it with the regular 1zzge tranny or can I use the gears from the 1zzge and put them in the 2zzge.....
View 4 RepliesProblem: About 10 minutes after driving, the heat starts to blow out of the upper vents when the a/c is on automatic. The heat comes out even if the outdoor temperature is mild (55 – 70 degrees Fahrenheit) and the cabin temperature is warm, which heats up the SUV quickly making it very uncomfortable. Turning the a/c off tends to somewhat solve the problem some of the time, however, occasionally hot air creeps through the vents even with the a/c off. The a/c often makes a gurgling sound whether it is on or off. I noticed today (2/3/12) that the back vents are not affected by the problem, so the very warm air is only coming from the front upper vents.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 explorer. I bought it with a lot of the lights, i.e. tire pressure, skid control, abs, service engine, air bag, service rcs and some others on and these systems are not working. a module was missing associated to the AWD system, I have put one in but awd still does not work through the 4 high and 4 low work. The automatic door locks does not lock when the vehicle starts moving. Some of the lights on the dash and doors don't work either.
View 2 Replies1993 Geo Prizm with some odd 275,000 miles on it. Was at a stop sign, in first gear, and gave the car some gas. Very quickly it jumped out of first gear and stopped moving abruptly. Tried to get it back in first gear and it just stayed in neutral. Had to push it to the side of the road. Tried putting it in any gear and it wouldn't go. Then tried to have the car running in neutral and let up on the clutch and as soon as I started letting up on the clutch, something (like metal) started grinding. Pushing the clutch it (in neutral) stops the grinding. So, do I need a new clutch? New transmission?
View 11 RepliesVery strange issue today. While driving in stop and go traffic (Auto Sport Mode). I noticed the car was starting in 2nd gear. Next stop I switched over to M and it would still not downshift to 1st even with the paddles or shifter. Once I started moving I could manually downshift just fine. Car seemed to shift normal. Eventually got the VSC / CEL . Here are the codes:
Pending:
PO301 - CYL 1 Misfire
C3101 - no details
C3411 - no details
C3000 - no details
Historical:
P0A11 - DC/DC Converter Enable circuit open
All of the codes cleared and did not reappear while idling. I have not driven the car yet. It also goes back into 1st now while stopped although I haven't tested coming to a stop. Will do that tomorrow
One thing to note that was out of the ordinary today. For some reason I was absolutely freezing (which should be impossible this time of year in SC) so I turned the AC off before this started and the idle dropped very low (400 - 500) which I seem to remember being normal but I almost never run with my AC compressor off unless I'm in race mode and I'm usually not putting along in stop and go traffic if that is the case. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but perhaps the low idle caused a voltage issue which tripped the codes.
Okay so I bought this car and a week later tranny wouldn't shift out of first when I would slow down or at least it would take a min. I would hit 4or 5 grand then it would jolt me back. It wouldn't do it every time though. I bought it to go to college drove it the 900 miles on the highway and had no problems except right before I left town but then fine. All I did was change the tranny fluid before I left which I can confidently say I don't think has been changed before that. stunk bad bud no metal.
Alright now I'll go jump in the car to go to class and it will not leave first. If I put it in the manual mode it thinks it's in third but clearly if in doing 15 mph at 4000 rpm that's not the case. It doesn't do it every time. Kinda hit or miss. After driving for a min it usually shifts. Sometimes I make it the two miles without it shifting though. Also sometimes It will shift but once I slow down it won't shift out of first again.
I have seen a code for torque management since I bought the car. The check engine light is on now but I haven't seen the torque code since I change the MassES. that's not to say it's not still there. I used a different handheld computer for the check engine light the last time I did it and I could have missed it because I was unfamiliar with it. I have put a mass airflow sensor, battery, alternator, and changed the tranny fluid since I have owned the car. drained 3L of tranny fluid and put 3L back in. Oh and the last time I checked the light it said lean in bank 1 but I was assuming that was an unrelated issue.
98 Gmc Jimmy 4.3L engine 4X4, they told me when the Abs light would come on will driving the tranny would not shift past 2nd gear, so after a month of not driving it, I took it for a drive Abs light was out vehicle drove fine shifted good even took it on the highway still ran good, two weeks later problem is back Abs light comes on after driving for a few minutes and the tranny goes into limp mode can't shift past 2nd gear plus the speedometer was not working, could it be speed sensor on the tranny causing the Abs light and the tranny from working wright.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2014 2.0T AWD Limited, now it's about 9000 kms so far with regular maintenance at dealer. Recently I have found the tranny is shifting a bit lagging, in particular shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. I didn't think it was like this when it was new, not sure if it's something wrong, or now I'm getting more used to the shifting and start complaining.
View 3 RepliesI recently bought a 2002 Accent with the 1.6 auto 133000 miles. I have been reading the postS around here about the crappy transmission. My car seems to have some life in the tranny still but it has slipped from 3rd to 4th gear around 45 mph when i get on the gas too hard. Its also a little sluggish to start off. My question is should i change the fluid out knowing i have a slipping issue? The reason i ask is that last time i changed the fluid and filter on a Jeep that was slipping i ended up having to rebuid it. Is that a real possibility if i change the fluid in this Hyundai?
View 3 RepliesSo dont know whats going on, but after my santa fe sat for a day, I went to go for a drive and when I left the house, the tranny slipped in 1st gear at around 3k rpms. The rpms just shot up, hammered into 2nd, then drove off as normal.
I couldn't get it to repeat it after that.
Facts:
-Car in eco mode
-Car sat for at least 24 hours
-Outside temp 70F
-slippage happened on takeoff at 3k rpm
-No CEL's
-around 11500 miles
What it could be? Should i take it in to hyundai? OR wait and see how it drives the next couple days.
I unhooked the battery for about an hour. I hooked it back up. I started the car put the selector into drive. CLUNK. Disengaged the parking brake. Drove. It turns out when I shifted to D it went straight to third and stayed there. I turned off the car, restarted it. Still stuck in third. Drove a few miles. Restarted it. No more issues. My guess the tranny went into safe mode, but why?
View 3 Replies