Geo - Metro :: 1994 - Clutch Slipping Under 4 And 5 Gear
Dec 2, 2013
I have a 1994 Geo Metro that I picked up a little over a year ago. I had to swap engines and replaced the clutch at the same time. This included a turned flywheel and new pressure plate. I also replaced all seals and gaskets except for the distributor O-ring and the head gasket. This included the crank and cam seals on the front and rear of the engine as well as the seal housing gaskets/oil pump gasket. I drove it for several months and then the distributor O-ring began to leak oil profusely which is a common problem with these cars. The distributor is keyed directly into the camshaft on the rear side of the engine so it sits sideways directly above the transmission/engine interface. Some of the leaking oil went right down into the clutch area. Being that adding a cup of synthetic oil every day was still cheaper than driving one of my pickups, I just kept driving the car until the new O-ring arrived and added oil. Once the O-ring was replaced, the oil leak stopped.
I had a couple episodes of clutch slipping not long after the leak was fixed and then everything seemed fine. I figured that some oil got down there and wore off after the clutch stopped slipping. The car drove fine for about a year until I began noticing the clutch slipping under load in 4th and 5th gear. I had some suspicions of this for a week or so before it became more obvious that the clutch was most definitely slipping. I have a new clutch kit and a spare flywheel that I plan to have machined in the next few days. I have been driving it a couple weeks around town and just babying it so the clutch won't slip.
I was also told by some that I should intentionally burn the clutch some to remove any glaze build up on the clutch disc or flywheel/pressure plate surfaces. They told me to put the parking brake on or put the front bumper up against a tree and burn the clutch. I originally figured this was a bad idea but decided to try it yesterday, figuring I had little to lose. I did it just until I began to see smoke and smell it and then stopped. I let everything cool off for an hour and then took the car for a drive. The clutch was no longer slipping at all so I am wondering if this fixed the problem for now or simply delayed the issue for a short while. I am sure I took some life off the clutch by doing this but....
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
View 12 Replies
I noticed my '94 accord LX slipping a bit mainly between 2nd and 3rd gear. I took it to my fairly trusty local (non-chain) mechanic who drove it a little and said he thought trans death was inevitable but he could not estimate when it would happen. Car has only 126K miles. He wanted to re-build it for $1400 (which I hear is reasonable but still an investment in a car this old.) The trans fluid is full (actually a little over the full line) bright red, clean smelling. We had the trans flushed 5 months ago but just found out they used Chevron ATF not Honda. I've read that only Honda fluid should be used, so I want to get that in there. Have not been driving it since the diagnosis. Do you think that there's any chance that switching to the Honda ATF will fix this and full trans rebuild won't be needed? Or if it's slipping is the trans already toast? I've heard some people advise against trans flushes in cars this old, to only drain and re-fill- is this true? If it does have a failing trans is there any way to estimate how long it will last? We are moving to New York in about 6 months and won't need a car, so I'd like to avoid sinking a ton of money on this car, or buying a new one! If it does need a re-build, do you think it's worth it in a car this old?
View 14 Replies
So I have a stage 2 endurance clutch and light weight flywheel on my car. I had not really gotten on it of late until yesterday. I was getting on the highway and really got on it. When I hit third gear it felt like my clutch was slipping. I have only had it on the car for like six months and about 10,000 miles. It could be worn out all ready? And after the incident yesterday I pushed the clutch in and held it to let it cool down a bit after it did it held fine even in higher Rpms didn't feel like any kind of slipping. Pulled very strong. This morning after having all night to cool off (and I mite just still be freaked out a bit) but it seemed to feel different, like a possible slip at 3,000 Rpms but again I mite just be freaking out about nothing. What does a master cylinder or slave cylinder going out feel like?
View 1 Replies
So I got my stage one flash yesterday and I noticed 5th gear slipping already. I don't plan on getting a k04 upgrade, maybe stage 2 down the road. so I am looking into the drop in clutches, preferably this one [URL] .... I am just trying to find out some reviews from people who are currently running drop in clutches and the issues that they have come across.
View 8 Replies
I have a 06 plate Santa Fe 2.2 diesel and i think the cluch is on its way out, keeps slipping out of gear and the pedal itself is not aligned with the other two, mileage is about 79K i think.
View 4 Replies
So I was driving my car and notice when I was in 5th gear the rpm was at 3 and was increasing to 4 then when back to 3 or 3500 rpm. I tired it again but with a little more gas to it and got the same results. Wondering if this is signs of clutch slipping or another cause.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2012 Golf R 6 Speed manual, Just noticed that my clutch was Slipping in fifth gear when I give it gas. What clutch kit is recommended. It is the first time I have a VW and dont really know what will work better on it. Mods are Full catless downpipe and exhaust, Injen air intake and Revo stage 2 tune, ST Coilovers and NICHE Bronze wheels. Podi boost gauge and AEM wideband. I put down 285hp and 310TQ at Dyno jet 2 weeks ago I was kind of suprise expected a bit more but maybe the clutch was going bad already.
View 1 Replies
My first VW was '99 Jetta that had 150xxx miles on the original clutch before it was stolen in '11. I leased a GTI shortly after, and decided to buy it out last year. At 35,000 miles I am starting to get I guess what I would describe as a chatter when slipping the clutch into first and sometimes second. Car is stock, never abused. I tried to reproduce this for a video clip but the problem is sporadic. Never had a clutch go on me so I don't know what to expect, but from what I've seen of people losing their stock clutches after ecu flashes is the car slipping under wot in top gear. I don't have that issue. No other symptoms. No stubborn shifts or anything, clutch still feels the same and rpm's have never flared up on shifts.
View 5 Replies
Clutch is starting to slip - can't handle torque above 3k in 6th gear.
6500 miles on the car
700 miles with module
Never launched - just wind out gears occasionally
Don't have to ride clutch on hills
Not a daily driver - not stuck in traffic
I shift like a granny...
View 10 Replies
I am searching for any kind of adjustment that might enable me to force the clutch level to the positive stop. It stands off about an 1/8" to 3/16" and I think is the reason I am not getting engagement in first gear, it slips heavily but fine in all other gears. The key way on the the lever prevents me from moving it a notch or two if I thought I could and don't know if that's even the answer . I can't figure out what is preventing it from returning fully on its own I can push it by and and a little fluid will squirt from the reservoir. Ive replaced the slave cylinder and bled it.
Is there any adjustment under the dash? This is a 2001 elantra that I just put a 2000 trans 5 speed.
My original plan was to pull the parts from the 2000 and replace in the 2001. I had lost 1st and 5th totally and found a 2000 that went right in with some minor mtr mnt mods. It shifts just fine except for this 1st gear thing. I saw a video and am having second thought about that move. I dont really want to pull the trans out again.
1st gear just keep slipping. new clutch kit installed when I swapped them out. It feels like a linkage thing somewhat but I cant find adjust ment to tryout.
View 4 Replies
Having clutch issues? I have just put 10k miles on my JSW and the clutch feels like it slipping in 1st gear when heavier load(uphill ETC) is present its even worse. We have never drove it hard pretty much cream puff.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1997 F250 heavy duty 4x4 7.5 efi. I just bought a 2003 weekend worrior weighing 5800lbs dry. When I go up slight hills in 4th gear it seems to work real hard especially on freeways, could my clutch be slipping or am I just at max tow
View 11 Replies
New truck 11000kms ago thats done medium amount of work but nothing heavy or sustained for long periods of time. I get the feeling of clutches slipping especially when truck is cold but also when normal temps. Doesnt make any weird noises or anything. I can really notice the difference in torque if in manual mode being much better, but still not perfect if i stomp on the gas pedal and go through the gears in manual mode will still slip. Also is really harsh shift if i come to a halt in 3rd manual mode with the brake pedal depressed push minus button the truck makes very loud clunk noise into gear 2 then 1. Took it to ford they couldnt find anything ? Thinking of trying another dealer.
View 2 Replies
My fuel guage stopped working, it just stays on empty, no sign of moving when the ignition is turned on and off. What the voltages should be or have a good system for problem solving this to locate where the problem is.
View 4 Replies
I recently got my hands on a 1994 Geo Metro 1.0L 3 cylinder. Actually I got TWO of them. One had a bad engine (burned valves) but was otherwise a good car while the other was junk (expect for the engine) and I am amazed the suspension didn't separate from the body due to the rust. So, I decided to swap the engine from the junk car to the good car. I replaced all seals and gaskets external to the engine plus the PCV valve and gave everything else a good cleaning. The only seals and gaskets not replaced were the intake gasket, head gasket, and exhaust gasket as the engine was swapped in a complete manner. I also did the timing belt and water pump while I was in that far as well as did the plugs/wires/cap/rotor when putting it back in. I also ran an oil change through of cheap oil and some Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil to clean out any sludge as it looks like oil hadn't been changed real well in this engine. This oil came out pretty dirty after like 30 minutes of idling.
This little car runs amazing overall and keeps up with traffic and is way more peppy than I would ever imagine! It is also getting somewhere between 50-55 MPG and is fun to drive kinda like a big go kart. There is ONE MAJOR issue! If I get on a highway and try to maintain speeds of 65MPH or faster on big hills, I am guaranteed to get massive smoke clouds from the valve cover area filling with oil and puking it through the PCV/breather assembly right into the intake. I tried more oil changes with synthetic oil and this kept happening. I also ran Seafoam and MMO through the oil and drove it like 30 miles before the change. The oil came out really black each time. I can now actually see bare metal on the inside of the valve cover area through the oil fill where before it was all black after all these oil changes. I also replaced the PCV once again for good measure as it was like a $6 part.
I drove about 100 miles on the highway and started getting massive smoke screens every time I got a long uphill grade and tried to maintain speed, especially if I stayed in 5th gear. The car had more than enough power to make it up the hill in 5th but would smoke under the load. This began to make me suspect I had a serious blowby problem. I had a quart of oil in the car and added all of this during a couple stops on the way. I was at or slightly below the low mark when I decided to head home so I found a parts store and purchased a quart of the cheapest store brand 10W40 oil I could find and used this to get home. It still smokes quite a bit but maybe not like on the way there. I also had the wind at my back so I figured part of this was load dependent.
I was at or just below the fill mark on the dipstick when I got home so I added some more 10W40 oil I had sitting around for an ATV I no longer own. I know this is formulated for motorcycles and ATVs but figured I wouldn't hurt the engine any more. I also added some auto trans fluid as I know some people say the detergents in this can free stuck rings and work wonders in a neglected engine. Again, how can I do more damage to this engine than has already been done? The car calls for 5W30.
I have pretty much resigned myself to the fact that this little engine had 170K of not the best maintenance and is due for a rebuild. My plans are to keep driving the car while rebuilding the other engine with bad valves. I am glad I kept the old engine around. The car seems to be doing a lot better on the mix of thicker oil and ATF but wonder how long it can go like this. I took it out on the highway and really pushed it hard to see if I could make it blow smoke and it would not. It MAY have consumed some oil on the dipstick but I am even not sure about this. I am not adding any until I can see a definite drop in the level.
Here is my next question. What is likely the solution I found? Thicker oil sealing worn rings better? ATF dissolving crud around stuck rings? When/if I change the oil before I get to the rebuild, what weight should I use? 5W40 maybe? Also, these engines are notorious for burning valves if a thicker oil is used as the hydraulic lifters don't allow them to close completely.
View 19 Replies
I bought 95 metro 3 cyc. 5 sd. bad tranny. The clutch is shot spins when put in 4th w e-brake on the tranny will not shift in to 3rd or 5th gear. Seller also gave me a different tranny says 2nd is shot and also a rebuild kit ( bearings,seals,secniorz) same as the one in the photo from dr bills tranny rebuild. What are my options for the tranny not going in to gear and what the easy way I should go.
I've never rebuild a tranny but I've done just a bout everything else to a car u can think of from rebuild motors to brakes and bodywork. Mainly want to no what the problem is with it not going in to gear. I know I will have to split case to find out for sure and I am going to start with the one that not in car. That supposedly 2nd don't work.
View 4 Replies
Well, it looks like I have an interesting issue. My car is an automatic and it starts in second gear, a lot. It seems to do it more, when it's warmer, so would that most likely be a faulty valve body.
View 14 Replies
I bought a 95 geo metro it ran for a few days then stop running. i have replaced about everything, new plugs, spark plug wires, sensors carborator etc. it seems like maybe it could be the timing but timing seems on. it wont turn over.
View 2 Replies
We have a '94 Honda accord that the automatic transmission started "slipping" in a week ago. It has 240K and runs good otherwise. It was sliping after it warms and seemed to slip mainly while shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th while accelerating quickly. If you take it real easy on the gas it does not seem to slip much (the engine revs and the car does not seem to be accelerating, so I assume that means it's slipping - maybe not?).
I don't believe the auto trans fluid had been changed in over 100K+. The car sat for about 2 years and then I changed oil, replaced tires & battery and started using it with no probs until this (I've been using it for about a month now).
Today I changed the auto trans fluid (very dark/dirty but no real burn smell - and just a little metallic "shavings" on the magnetic drain plug), and drove the car fairly hard and heated everything up real good and it hardly slips at all now.
My questions are - with the fluid change making such a drastic improvement (at least for now), should I repeat the process and change it again? Should I try an aftermarket "miracle" additive to claims to prevent slipping? What about trying the Honda brand fluid vs. the "Autostore" brand Dexron VI that is recommended for Hondas requiring Dexron II (apparently they don't make D-II anymore)? Could it be something else - sensor, linkage, etc. (seems doubtful with the improvement with the fluid change?)?
View 2 Replies
I was towing my 20' boat and had a 4000 lb camper on back going up a grade in 85-90 degree heat when the tranny started dumping fluid. Got to the top and let it rest for 2-3 hours and refilled and was fine for the rest of the trip. This happened last summer. Truck is only driven about 1000 miles a year. I believe this is the E40D.
This year it will run smooth until after about 20 miles and then begins slipping in Drive and OD. Seems to work fine in 1 and 2. It shifts very hard and runs higher rpms before doing so. Slipping then seems to be sporadic and may not slip for quite awhile but it still shifts very hard.
View 5 Replies
