I recently had a problem with my Mitsubishi GTO 1992 Non Turbo MANUAL Japanese import.When I was revving it would simply rev and the car would hardly move. I had the whole clutch changed and the slave cylinder. This fixed the most of it but now, a couple of days later, when my car gets warm it happens again, particularly in high gears.
If the clutch and slave cylinder have been changed, what can it be?
I have a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000gt VR-4 (Twin turbo)
Last night I was driving.. not even pushing my car or anything. I go through 1st gear fine, then when I hit second, out of nowhere I hear this loud air escaping sound come from under the hood around 3000rpms. As I went up in rpms, the sound just got louder, so I shifted quick.
It sounded like if I just tried to go through it, it would explode or something. I looked this up and found somewhere it said to try tightening the clamps on everything under the hood, so I did that. None of them were loose but I did tighten them a lot.
I also looked at my (boost?) gauge (gauge on the far right in the car) and it seemed like it was stuck at halfway and moved very little when I was driving. I was going to have a person try to feel where the air was coming from when I revved it in neutral but it doesn't seem to do it in neutral..
Never heard it before and I need to figure this out as soon as possible. Trying to sell my car and this happens..
5 speed stick shift, first thing in the morning no problem, after driving a while it shakes in reverse and does not want to move, going forward is no problem, clutch and cv joints were replaced 4 years ago, 170k miles.
View 6 RepliesMy 92 nissan truck 4x4 won't move. engine runs fine but after a couple stream crossings and parking it I can't get it to roll. It happened a few years ago and a mech. said it was rust lock in the brakes?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1992 Aerostar 3.0L end my temperature gauge on the dash doesn't move at all. Stays all the way to the left. I read on other forums that to make sure the gauge and the wiring are ok, i need to connect the wire that goes to the sensor unit to the negative of the battery. Gauge should go all the way to hot when the ignition switch is put to on position. That was exactly my results. So, i replaced the temp sensor unit but still gauge doesn't move. I didn't use any sealant on the threads when i installed the sensor. Connector looks ok. The engine warms up fine. I really don't know what else to think or do.
View 11 RepliesI got in to the 92 Lincoln, shifted into drive, and noticed transmission slippage. I checked the transmission fluid. The fluid did not smell burned but was under the add a pint line. I added fluid to the full line. The car is worse. As you shift into drive, then you have to race the engine to get the car to move forward. The car will go up the block but not with any speed. It seems as if it is not developing enough power to get the car to move forward. If I throw the car in reverse, it drives normal. Is it time to sell the car to the demolition derby?
View 10 RepliesI'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
View 9 RepliesThis winter I plan to drive across country from California to Florida in my 2001 Mitsubishi eclipse, unfortunately it’s AC it out and the mechanics said it was the blower and possibly other things and it would coast at least 800 dollars. As I drive across the country in the winter I do not want my car the fog up and would like to keep my windows rolled down to keep air circulation going but if it’s going to be raining that option is out. I’ve searched many different sites online to find a side window deflector but it seems that there isn’t any for that year. If AC repair is out of the question, and a side window deflector doesn’t seem to exist for this model does.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2002 Lancer with just over 150K miles. So far, he's been pretty solid. He starts when I want him to and stops when he is supposed to. Last summer his A/C started acting up a bit. When I am in stop-and-go city traffic, everything is fine. As soon as I get on the highway and am cruising at any speed for more than 15 minutes, the A/C stops blowing cold air and just blows as if I just had the fan on, but not the A/C. If I slow down and then accelerate pretty quickly and can make him shift through a few gears, the A/C will kick back in. At first I just thought I was getting some attitude from him (his name is Miles - pretty clever for a car name, huh?) because I moved him from NW Arkansas to the Gulf Coast and he didn't like the heat and wanted me to know it. I took him in for a standard oil change and had the mechanic run an A/C diagnostic. I didn't tell him of any problem I was having because I thought it might work itself out (stranger things may have happened). He told me everything looked good: good compression, blowing at 41 degrees, something else I forgot...anyway Miles passed his A/C test.
The mechanic did tell me that the battery would need to be changed soon. Well in my highly-trained mechanic mind (I have a degree in Art History; that tells you how vast my knowledge is about all things with engines), I thought, "OK, when I replace this battery, that'll give the A/C some more power and everything will be hunky dory.? Not quite. He's still having the same problem. So my next thought was that maybe a fan belt could be slipping or stretching when I'm maintaining a constant speed. Maybe? Occasionally all the backlit instruments lose their lighting. They all come back on, but it doesn't coincide with the timing of the A/C issues. The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for a while and the "SRS" light will come on every now and again, but that doesn't jive with the A/C timing either. But, that's the story of Miles.I'd like to keep him for another 150K if possible.
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant 4 cylinder with 160,000 miles on it. Been maintained pretty well over the last 7 years of ownership. Recently has started burning oil and I have been putting at LEAST 2 quarts of oil in everytime I refuel. No signs of leaking and the white smoke seems to indicate oil burn. I also commute daily about 80 miles. Is it worth fixing?
Already Tried: Did a 100,000 mile tune up almost 2 years ago and was changning oil and fluids within 1000 miles of recommended change before oil started burning. (About 6-8 months ago it started) Have not taken it to the mechanic yet to see what they suggest.
This car has the 1.5 liter 12 valve motor and a five speed transmission. Ran pretty good until a few days ago when it died. the next day it started up and ran ok for about a half a block and then I had to pump the gas to keep it running. I had bought gas at a dinky budget station that I had never been to before so I suspected bad gas and I put in a new fuel filter which did not work. I then put some Seafoam additive in. After I got it started I revved it up a bit to try and clear things out and then let it idle for an hour or so.
The engine smoothed right out and didn't idle rough but did not start after I turned it off. I pulled a plug wire, put in a bolt and tested for spark against the valve cover. Not even a weak spark, nothing. I looked for the coil but there is no coil and I am told that the coil is in the distributor. I also saw a reference online about the crankshaft sensor possibly being the culprit. What a crankshaft sensor looks like and the engine compartment is so crowded with hoses, wires and all kinds of things it is real hard to see anything from above.
I am wondering if the coil is bad do you have to get a whole distributor ( I was quoted a price of $269 for a new one) or can you take it out of the distributor and replace just the coil.I have a brand new 154 piece Craftsman tool kit, but I am 62 years old and back when I learned how to work on cars it was a lot simpler. Now when I open a hood about half the stuff there is unfamiliar to me. My other vehicle (Chevy C20 van) is not running that great and gets awful gas mileage. The battery is new and I have never ran out of gas with this car, so they are not suspect.
Yesterday, I was waiting inline at a fast food drive-thru and noticed that my A/C was not cooling (it was 100 deg outside). I then put the car in park and revved up the engine and then cool air started to come out of my A/C vents. I did that for 2-3 mins, then noticed that my temperature gauge rose almost all the way to the top (it went right under the red). At that point I took off (out of the drive thru), to get some air flowing into the radiator. Sure enough it temperature doped fast. After looking under the hood. I noticed that one of the two fans to the radiator will not turn on. I'm guessing that's what caused the over heating. I am not sure if I did any damage to the engine though, it did run really hot but not to the red mark but a hair line right under it.
View 5 RepliesI have a 95 Mitsubishi diamante es 3.0 sohc auto trans. it idles rough i have replaced plugs wires cap rotor button air filter and fuel filter. checked the timming belt ok checked the fuel pressure it is 40 psi the book calls for 38 psi. if i rev it up to 2000 rpm's it smoothes out.
View 9 RepliesMy eclipse never had any problems it has 137k miles on it and a couple weeks ago we got a big snow so I didn't go anywhere so the car sat in the cold for 3 days without moving I tried starting it to go to work to.
Found out I had no pressure on my clutch went all the way to the floor. I bled the clutch refilled and it worked, drove it for 2 weeks no problem. We just got another big snow let it sit again n now it is doing the same thing. My mechanic said he couldn't find any leaks but I'm thinking it has to b a master or a slave leak.
91 Mirage starts and runs ok but usually will not start again after warming up. What are the possible causes and how do I check to eliminate dead end cures.
View 3 RepliesI am thinking of buying a car but can't decide between a 2003 Nissan 350Z with 87000 miles on it, or a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 57000 miles on it. It will be a commuter car for me. I don't know a lot about Mitsubishis.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1990 Mitsubishi Mighty Max that squeaks like you're opening a screen door whenever it goes over bumps. Is this just because the old or do I need to get it to a shop to fix something?
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2007 Mitsubishi Pajero (not sure the current equivalent in US, it used to be the Montero but I think they have since discontinued it). It's a great car. One rather annoying issue we are having with it at the moment...
The radio changes volume by itself. It goes up, it goes down, all on it's own without any input from us. Here are some observations:
- Only happens when the car is in motion, at a stand-still it is fine.
- Only happens when listening to radio, not CD player or DVD player.
The car does not have a "knob" for the volume, it is just buttons (rules out potentiometer thingy)
There are steering wheel controls, but the fact that the volume changes only happen when listening to the radio, and not CD, make me believe it's not those. Same with speed-sensitive volume controls. We have turned those off in the settings and it still does the same. Even with them on or off, the CD volume works as expected.
I recently noticed my car is leaking its motor oil into the radiator. There is no water in the motor oil and the transmission oil is at it's appropriate level and such.
View 2 RepliesGot a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage with this code 0420. Only had car a while. It has always had a hesitation accompanied by the CEL coming on and then going out. Might happen twice a trip and then not occur for weeks. Previous owner said they failed an emissions because he cleared a set code(not told to me). The car dives fine and gas mileage seems to be fine. Car does use about a quart of oil over a 3000 mile oil change. It also has/had a rattle similar to an exhaust baffle...the rattle is not an every trip occurrence either.
Had Autozone check for code and was told catalytic converter needed to be replaced. There are no emissions in my state but I would like to know any opinions on my problem and any issues with driving car without repair. I think I want to clear code by disconnecting battery cable and see if it returns but not that would be a good idea. Also considered buying a scan tool with live data to see if there is another issue that might not involve replacing the catalytic converter. Previous owner also mentioned a hissing when removing gas cap and he bought another cap but the I still notice the hissing.