Montana :: 2006 - Vehicle Went Into Limp Mode, Fuel Filter Might Be The Cause?
Nov 19, 2012
2006 Montana 3.9.
Went into 'limp mode' (dash says, reduced engine power)
Mechanic friend scanned it: It indicated Cam Sensor. He bought a Cam Sensor but the next scan indicated Throttle Position Sensor. TPS is not available separate from the throttle body.
It seems like it might be a dirty fuel filter to me but it looks like the only fuel filter is on the pump in the fuel tank. Is that the case? Auto parts people say no other filter. Is there something we can do besides the full blown job of pulling the tank, and removing the fuel pump; some kind of additive or treatment to clean the fuel filter?
Why is it still the norm to have the pump etc. in the tank where you can't access it?
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Just filled up with Shell V-Power 91 Octane Fuel for the first time in my MKVI Golf 2.5
I know 91 isn't needed in this car but I like filling up with good fuel every once in a while.
After filling up my check engine light came on right away, also my engine wont allow me to go over 3k RPM.
Why did this happen and what can I do to fix it?
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Twice now, my 2006 VW Jetta has gone into "limp mode"--RPMs rev like mad but I get very little power, won't go into overdrive. Had to get it home both times by using the Tiptronic. The first time it happened, we were driving through The Poconos on a nice day. Shut the car off & restarted it with no problem. The 2nd time was during an intensely hot day & torrential rainstorm in MD. The car sat for 2 days before going back to normal. Is this normal behavior for a VW? And what makes it go into limp mode? I can understand it happening during the rainstorm but on a nice day of normal driving?
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I've a 2006 sonata 3.3 with 100k miles on it and recently it started going to limp mode leaving me in 3rd gear only after scanning it I've found code p0743 (TCC selonoid open/short circuit) what to check from here or can share any wiring diagrams for this particular circuit I'm not sure where to start. where is the wiring harness for that is located ? is it in the oil pan ? and if I wanted to pull the selonoid itself to check would it be something I can do myself ?
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We have a 2006 Passat, 30K miles, live in northeast on a Great Lake. We bought it used in 5/07 with 11K miles on it. The other day, a whole mess of warning lights came on, and the car went into "limp mode." The dealership diagnosed corroded wires where they connect to the throttle valve controller. We usually keep our cars for years, and we've never had corroded wires before. Is this a typical problem of VW's? The service mgr said he'd seen about 6 come in in the last year, but I don't know if that's a lot or a few compared to other brands. We're getting ready to shop for cars again, and we'd consider a new Jetta, but not if it can't go out in the rain. Also, if the wires corroded once, what will keep them from corroding again? Should we expect this to keep happening?
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I was once the proud owner of a 2006 Prius with 106,716 miles on it. Never missed a regularly scheduled service. Now, I am no longer proud, but just another owner of a Prius with a failed transaxle.
Last week, I parked my car on my way to work and, while the car was idling in park, the Triangle of Death (red with exlamation mark within) came up on the dashboard. The car went into limp mode -- it was unable to shift into drive or reverse -- so I had it towed to Darcars in Silver Spring, MD. They thought the original 12v battery was dead, so they replaced it.
P0AA6 -- 526 and 613 codes 600 miles after Transaxle Fluid Replacement...
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2008 sonata 3.3, no reverse however the dash indicates it's in reverse. Code P0733. I understand how an unrelated problem can cause another and wonder if I can eliminated possible problems. Car is in limp mode and stays in second or third gear.
I am about to disconnect, clean and wiggle the connectors for the transmission inner and outer sensors and then find out if I can test the sensors. That is, after I find them.
I'm also on the hunt for anything the TPS sensor might have to do with it. Battery disconnect does not work, even after hours. Is there any way something unrelated like the brake light switch or the inhibitor switch (whatever that is), might be the cause? Valve body?
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Should we go to a transmission specialist or a regular shop for our issue? 2006 Kia Sedona - won't shift into reverse suddenly and is in "limp" mode, only staying in 3rd gear.
My concerns are primarily getting it done correctly and as cheaply as possible. I've read that the issue could be an input or output solenoid or maybe having to get a full on re manufactured transmission instead. But the consensus appears to be having it properly diagnosed.
So my question is, will the local shop around the corner who is pretty good with most repairs be able to properly deal with this? Or am I better off skipping them and going to the specialist?
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My truck gave me low fuel pressure and reduced pressure limp mode at 21,000 miles. The fuel and air filters were changed at 16,000. The dealer said all they found was the fuel filters (at 21,000) were what needed to be changed. Also, why does my truck hum??
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Ok just bought this truck ran fine. Put a sct tuner on that the truck came with and some how got the egr turned on. It had a egr delete so it was smoking and finally found it out that it had turned on but fixed it. Now we have another problem, it will start up and run fine and about 45 seconds it will start running rough and go into a limp mode. It will run rough and starts to die slowly and when it starts to die there is no throttle at all.
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I have a 2008 F350 with a 6.4 Powerstroke diesel engine that just experienced total engine failure. It has around 65K miles.
There is a heavy burn star pattern on all 8 pistons, a few pistons are cracked, a few cylinder walls are scored, glow plugs are melted, both heads are cracked with multiple stress fractures in each head.
About 1 month previously, the transmission would not work in tow mode and caused the engine to go into limp home mode. The dealership just replaced the entire tranny as a warranty item. About 1 week before the engine failure, I put in a 5.25 oz bottle of Lucas injector cleaner with a full tank of gas.
The Ford dealership is saying that the star pattern on all 8 pistons is due to high pressure fuel overspray and is evidence that I had a tuner on this engine and that the warranty is invalid. I did not have a tuner. What might have caused this engine failure?
Also, they only ripped down the top half of the motor, not the bottom half. I heard this might have been caused by a cracked crank shaft, but Ford refuses to investigate this possibility.
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Where is the fuel tank air filter located? If you will look in your maint. log or owners manual for the four cyl. under emmissions control you will find the fuel tank air filter to be inspected at 15000 miles and changed at 30000 miles.
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I have a 2006 Charger R/T. My car used to not start (even thought the battery, starter, and alternator was good). I had it fixed, and the problem seemed to be electrical. However after that, it would always start, but would go into "limp mode". I let it sit for two days, and the limp mode disappeared. However, it will only start on occasion. It won't start after about 30 mins after use. It won't start for a few hours. All electrics work fine, it just won't even attempt to crank. Try to start it later, it will work fine. Even though the check engine light was NOT on, I was able to pull three codes out of it: U0100, U0103, P0700. I did have to replace the notorious "pink thingy", but everything (should be) connected fine.
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Happened once or twice where I tried to back up a hill and the car went into limp mode. Neither the dealer nor my mechanic could replicate it.
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So I was driving kinda hard yesterday on the highway, and it was about 80 degrees outside. At some point in the drive, I got no boost from the turbo at all (my gauge also was showing no boost). I pulled over, stopped the car, and restarted it, and the car was back to normal. Is this something I should be worried about? I am running 93 program APR Stage 1+ with VWR intake and HPFP.
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My 2007 Santa Fe was acting up at one time, then stopped doing it, and recently started again. My wife is the primary driver so I'm not always in the vehicle when it happens. When the vehicle is started cold, it will run a short distance then the MIL comes on and it goes to a 5 mph limp mode. After pulling over and shutting the vehicle completely down for a couple of minutes, it will run normally with the MIL still on. However, by the time I get back home to pull the codes, the MIL goes off. I don't remember the exact codes, but when it acted up last time I believe the codes had something to do with the TPS, Pedal Pos Sensor, and one other I can't remember.
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I have been having a problem where the Santa Fe will drive great for a week, sometimes only a day and the engine light will come on and the car will go into limp mode. It will drop you from 65MPH to 10 MPH, if you put it in park the RPM's will race and stomping on the pedal will not affect the RPM's. After you turn it off for a couple of minutes it will drive ok again. I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the Accelerator Pedal Sensor, cleaned all connections and checked wires in them. I have also cleaned the Throttle Body. The Dealer wants to replace the Throttle Body.
Had Engine Codes:
P0123 - Throttle Position Sensor 1 Signal Circuit High Imput
P1110 - Throttle Actuator Control System Malfuntion
P0222 - Throttle Position Sensor 2 Signal Circuit Low Imput
P1175 - Electric Throttle Valve Control System (ETS) Valve #
P1196 - Throttle Actuator Control System Limp Home-Stuck
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So on cold mornings my r has been kicking on the epc light and gone to limp mode. The only codes are for the coolant temp sensor and an intermittent accelerator position sensor. Would the temp sensor really cause this? After awhile I can start it up and it runs fine.
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I am looking for an answer to changing my 2007 Sonata fuel tank air filter that is mentioned in my 30,000 mile maintenance schedule. Is this an easy change or does my car have to be taken to the dealer for this?
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My 2010 Malibu has been throwing a code 0f 2135 also goes into limp mode. Code comes up as throttle pos sen. So looking I can see it is all built in one with the throttle body. Can it be changed with out any special tools?
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I have a 2008 ISF with a k&n intake and QTP exhaust cutouts. About a month ago my car died on me and when I restarted it, the car went into limp mode. The "check vsc" light is on along with the traction light and CEL. I took it to my mechanic and he said I needed to replace the MAF sensor and I did. 100 miles later the car went into limp mode again. So I took it to a mechanic that knows Lexus vehicles very well apparently, and he diagnosed it to be my intake. So he replaced it with the stock intake. Now I've driven another 100 miles and the problem has come back again. The car is throwing all kinds of codes when I connect the obd2 scanner to it.
It is throwing p0031, p0037, p0051, p0057, p0102, p1360, p1361, and a whole bunch more.
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