Passat :: 2006 - Warning Lights Came On - Car Went Into Limp Mode
May 28, 2012
We have a 2006 Passat, 30K miles, live in northeast on a Great Lake. We bought it used in 5/07 with 11K miles on it. The other day, a whole mess of warning lights came on, and the car went into "limp mode." The dealership diagnosed corroded wires where they connect to the throttle valve controller. We usually keep our cars for years, and we've never had corroded wires before. Is this a typical problem of VW's? The service mgr said he'd seen about 6 come in in the last year, but I don't know if that's a lot or a few compared to other brands. We're getting ready to shop for cars again, and we'd consider a new Jetta, but not if it can't go out in the rain. Also, if the wires corroded once, what will keep them from corroding again? Should we expect this to keep happening?
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I have an automatic (ugh) 2002 Jetta 1.8T that is displaying some fun stuff. My kneejerk reaction is that the ECU is croaking but wanted to run it by some people with more experience/smarts.
Here's the deal. I don't get any codes, ever. Sometimes, when I turn the ignition to on (Before starting) all of my warning lights are dim and will flicker, and the gear indicator at the bottom of the cluster rapidly switches between each gear. If I start the car like this, I can hear the shift lock randomly engaging and disengaging. If I actually try to drive, it'll shift hard into reverse, shift normally into drive, and then drive in limp mode. I only drove this way three times before figuring out the next bit. Each time, either the traction control or air bag warning lights came on and stayed on.
I've noticed that if I turn the ignition to "on" and it's acting up, all I have to do is leave it on for a few seconds, turn the ignition back off, and turn it back on; sometimes it'll take 2-3 tries but it always seems to work. Then the warning lights come on bright and steady, the car starts like normal, and drives great.
So, is it the ECU? Is it demons?
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My wife and I are driving our 2005 Prius with 130k miles and have experienced some weirdness with the car while driving. We've got the master warning light (red triangle w/ !), and another yellow (!) warning light, plus the center display shows a red car with an !. I've gathered that it means something possibly with the brake controller, so when I parked I put the e-brake on.
The car was driving fine with these lights on (we were in the middle of Canadian highways and couldn't stop anywhere) except that cruise control would not work.
Eventually, it actually went into limp mode, where we would floor the pedal and the car would barely accelerate. Pulled over, turned it off for a few minutes, then back on and it drove fine, warning lights still on.
I just replaced the driver's front wheel hub, and I can hear the passenger front going bad, so I'm suspicious that this may be related. Just replaced the 12v within the last few months with an Optima.
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I'm a little bit stuck here. This happened last night, and the dealer is closed today. I have a 2008 Santa Fe SE. It stalled last night, and when I turned it back on, I got a check engine light, the ESC light, and the AWD transmission light blinking. When I go to accelerate, it will not go passed 2000 RPM, and it is driving very sluggish. Its not knocking, or making any other kind of sounds. The air conditioning does not work, but the fan blows uncooled air. It accelerates extremely slowly, even with the petal mashed.
I plan on taking it in tomorrow, but I'd like to know if there is some way to reset the computer. I tried disconnecting the battery for about 30 minutes, but it didn't work.
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I have a Mk4 1.8t , I left a light on and near killed the battery one night , was parked on a hill so I let it roll start.( I know this is where I went wrong so lets get past it....) It started in what sounds like some type of limp mode, dim dash lights and about 300-400rpm. cruised at about 10mph for say a 1/4 mile before the engine returned to normal rpm and lights returned to proper brightness.. now the car has a problem I cant seem to put my finger on. When it gets to about 3000rpms it bucks and begins to throw multi misfire codes making it hard to even get to 30mph.
It reminds me of how it felt when all the coils started failing but I know it cant be that because its all new , (plugs ,coils,) I have also replaced a few other easy parts such as the n75 and the diversion valve next to it, as well as the fuel pump and filter. One thing I noticed when I leave my n75 unplugged (wide open) it seems to run better making it easier to drive but if I go anywhere past 1/4 throttle it bucks and struggles. I've used the Autel to scan it for other codes but the only thing I get is random multi mis codes and mis codes for each individual cylinder.
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Twice now, my 2006 VW Jetta has gone into "limp mode"--RPMs rev like mad but I get very little power, won't go into overdrive. Had to get it home both times by using the Tiptronic. The first time it happened, we were driving through The Poconos on a nice day. Shut the car off & restarted it with no problem. The 2nd time was during an intensely hot day & torrential rainstorm in MD. The car sat for 2 days before going back to normal. Is this normal behavior for a VW? And what makes it go into limp mode? I can understand it happening during the rainstorm but on a nice day of normal driving?
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so i was driving the vw and the car starts surging like its in limp mode but no cel! so i stopped and checked my engine bay to see if maybe my intercooler piping came loose but nothing! so i shut it off for about 5 seconds and turned it back on and it threw a cel! the whole time i was driving it home felt like it was going in and out of limp mode and would not boost past 4 psi! check the cel and came back as this:
P0238 turbo/supercharger boost sensor a ckt high input
p0106 map/baro ckt rng perform
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Passat 2008/09 TSI engine 16k miles. APR stage 2+
I was driving normally and suddenly EPC light comes on, and the engine goes to limp mode. I turn the engine off and then turn on again. Everything runs fine. Vag shows N276 intermittent fail. I had already this fail, but always when starting engine, and the engine used to run OK. Is this a "sign" that is time to replace the HPFP? Or can I take the chance and keep running?
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I have the problem of over boosting and hitting limp mode. now does that mean i adjusted the actuator wrong when putting it back on? if so how do i adjust it properly. or is there something else i can do to make the car come out of limp mode? also since it is boosting past a certain psi should i put a mbc on it and adjust it down?
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Wife's Passat went into "limp mode" and will only give me 4th gear. Check engine light came on when it happened. I had a buddy scan the car with OBD scanner and it is saying Sensor A is bad? Which sensor this is, or thought of writing down the code that it was throwing. My guess is the speed sensor for the transmission.
Luckily the car is a W8 and has enough power to pull the car from stop in 4th gear. There aren't any reputable VW dealerships in my town or any neighboring town. I've decided to take the car to a VW/Audi specialist some 60 miles away. They told me they can take a look and replace if needed. I absolutely do not trust VW dealerships/service around here. I've heard nothing but nightmare stories about them.
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I've a 2006 sonata 3.3 with 100k miles on it and recently it started going to limp mode leaving me in 3rd gear only after scanning it I've found code p0743 (TCC selonoid open/short circuit) what to check from here or can share any wiring diagrams for this particular circuit I'm not sure where to start. where is the wiring harness for that is located ? is it in the oil pan ? and if I wanted to pull the selonoid itself to check would it be something I can do myself ?
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My friends has an 06 3.6 motion sedan and has a problem. His car went into limp mode with the ECM and traction control light as well as CEL. we took it to the local dealer (45 min away) they scanned it and said that the throttle pedal was the only code that wouldn't clear. He ordered a new pedal from ECS and installed it today. The cars still in limp mode we read about a potential throttle body adjustment procedure (not too sure of the validity) any how followed it open hood open door ignition in the "on" position for a few minutes. After that when he started it every warning light came on. Is there a step in pedal replacement we re missing? On a side note the connector on the pedal end was fairly damaged not sure what from maybe the po had a botched replacement attempt? Not too sure what to try next.
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I have a 2004 1.8T AWM auto tranny Passat with APR chip. CIA, Bolt down Coil Packs, Bosch F6DTC plugs, OEM cat to straight pipe to magnaflow muffler, N75J, Forge DV (not the 007).
I installed a MBC bypassing the N75 to keep the spike at 16psi and hold (the n75J i spike at 22psi and hold 12~14), When I did that, the car will go in limp mode from 'over boosting'. I have to turn the MBC down to 9 to keep the car limping out. I love the way the MBC have the boost curve (the N75 is too passive for me). would like to fix this issue.
Also, with the N75 and or MBC, while in the APR 93 oct chip mode, I always get surging in 4th and 5th gear. Any time the boost is over 10psi, it is like I have tons of boost, but the engine is not using it. APR said it is the tranny, the tranny shop said it is the engine or computer, the engine shop said it is the tuning.
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I got into my car about 5 minutes ago and while driving i noticed a ample amount of power loss. I would go half throttle and my rmp's would go up by my speed seemed lacking even full on it it seemed to be lagging and was a slow climb to 60. Could it be my turbo not putting out or something more serious. Its a 99 1.8t ....
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I've had the car for almost 5k miles, no issues. Only performance part on the car is a USP 3" catless down pipe with an O2 spacer. Car performed fine with it. Today I got an APR stage 1 93 octane tune. A few hours into the tune on my way home from work, I went to change lanes and the car hit some type of a wall with the RPMs. At around 3200 RPMs, the car felt like it went into limp mode. Did not let me pass 3200 RPMs. I got off the highway and had to keep the RPMs up because the car died at lights. Pulled into my driveway, plugged in my VCDS and there are absolutely no codes coming up. Nothing. But starting the car the car cranks and I have to give it gas for it I barely start.
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2006 Montana 3.9.
Went into 'limp mode' (dash says, reduced engine power)
Mechanic friend scanned it: It indicated Cam Sensor. He bought a Cam Sensor but the next scan indicated Throttle Position Sensor. TPS is not available separate from the throttle body.
It seems like it might be a dirty fuel filter to me but it looks like the only fuel filter is on the pump in the fuel tank. Is that the case? Auto parts people say no other filter. Is there something we can do besides the full blown job of pulling the tank, and removing the fuel pump; some kind of additive or treatment to clean the fuel filter?
Why is it still the norm to have the pump etc. in the tank where you can't access it?
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I was once the proud owner of a 2006 Prius with 106,716 miles on it. Never missed a regularly scheduled service. Now, I am no longer proud, but just another owner of a Prius with a failed transaxle.
Last week, I parked my car on my way to work and, while the car was idling in park, the Triangle of Death (red with exlamation mark within) came up on the dashboard. The car went into limp mode -- it was unable to shift into drive or reverse -- so I had it towed to Darcars in Silver Spring, MD. They thought the original 12v battery was dead, so they replaced it.
P0AA6 -- 526 and 613 codes 600 miles after Transaxle Fluid Replacement...
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2008 sonata 3.3, no reverse however the dash indicates it's in reverse. Code P0733. I understand how an unrelated problem can cause another and wonder if I can eliminated possible problems. Car is in limp mode and stays in second or third gear.
I am about to disconnect, clean and wiggle the connectors for the transmission inner and outer sensors and then find out if I can test the sensors. That is, after I find them.
I'm also on the hunt for anything the TPS sensor might have to do with it. Battery disconnect does not work, even after hours. Is there any way something unrelated like the brake light switch or the inhibitor switch (whatever that is), might be the cause? Valve body?
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Should we go to a transmission specialist or a regular shop for our issue? 2006 Kia Sedona - won't shift into reverse suddenly and is in "limp" mode, only staying in 3rd gear.
My concerns are primarily getting it done correctly and as cheaply as possible. I've read that the issue could be an input or output solenoid or maybe having to get a full on re manufactured transmission instead. But the consensus appears to be having it properly diagnosed.
So my question is, will the local shop around the corner who is pretty good with most repairs be able to properly deal with this? Or am I better off skipping them and going to the specialist?
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Own a 2006 Volkswagen Passat 2.0t a/t. My dash board is showing a parking brake fault but as soon as the that comes up my tranny will go into limp mode ???? could the parking brake and tranny be linked together??? My parking brake still engaged and disengaged ??? what can it be ???
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Ok just bought this truck ran fine. Put a sct tuner on that the truck came with and some how got the egr turned on. It had a egr delete so it was smoking and finally found it out that it had turned on but fixed it. Now we have another problem, it will start up and run fine and about 45 seconds it will start running rough and go into a limp mode. It will run rough and starts to die slowly and when it starts to die there is no throttle at all.
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