1998 v6 3.8 upper and lower intake gaskets replaced last week by my cousin. Now when it warms up and you shut it off is squeals. Someone said it could be the gasket isn't seated right and it's sucking air from the crankcase. It squeals after the engine is shut off for a few seconds.
View 1 RepliesI have a new 2012 mustang GT with just under 5000 miles (no brembo package). For the first 3-5 stops, the passenger front brake squeals loudly right before coming to a stop, then goes away for a while. Intermittently, while the car is warm, it will squeal very loudly at low speeds when coming to a stop (10mph). The car does not pull and the stopping power doesn't seem to be affected. I've taken it to the dealership, they say they can't reproduce the sound. They resurfaced the rotor and claim that nothing is wrong with the brakes, but the resurfacing did nothing to fix the problem.
View 4 RepliesI was driving when I noticed my interior lights didn't shut off. After which I pulled over shut my doors and trunk and the lights still wouldn't turn off. I kept trying to shut them off, I also used my car clicker to lock my doors (which before would shut them off as soon as I hit the lock button) but they still stayed on. I am currently pulling the interior light fuse to shut them off so it doesn't drain my battery.
I tried to look up solutions but so far nothing has worked.
*I tried to turn the nob that also controls my headlights but still nothing
*I pushed in the switchs and it doesn't appear anything is wrong with them
One solution suggested that there was another fuse that controlled a timer but I'm not sure what fuse its talking about.
I have a 2008 Saturn Astra and there is a high pitched squeeling sound when i accelerate from a stop. It has been happening since last year but seems to have gotten worse. It only happens in the summer time. It squeels only when accelerating at low speeds. if I accelerate quickly the sound goes away. but will come back if i come to a stop and accelerate normally again. It doesnt start from 0 RPMs but only at low rpm. It only happens when I first turn on the car and accelerate. If I have been driving for a few minutes and then accelerate from a stop it doesn't make any unusual sound. It happens in reverse as well as drive.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy silverado z/71 4x4. I had a water leak and had the intake manifold gaskets replaced. Ever since then, the check engine light comes on and it soots up the o2 sensors and the 4 plugs on the right bank. It may run good for a month or so and then it starts all over again.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 aero with 4 wheel drive and a 4 liter. Lent it out and the engine was run without coolant. Pretty sure the head gaskets are blown. I found a replacement 4 liter from a 92 explorer and wondered if it would swap in. Will the bolt pattern match, computer, mounts,etc?
View 5 RepliesI have a great running 1994 Accord LX with 140k miles, but plan to trade it in within the next 12 months. It has the following two flaws that I'm trying to decide whether or not to repair:
(1) Muffler is rusted out inside (but sound doesn't bother me)
(2) Very minor oil leaks at two different engine gaskets
Should I invest in either of these repairs or just ride it out?
I'm pretty sure I have a blown head gasket. I have white smoke coming out of exhaust and the oil is brownish in color indicating radiator fluid is leaking into engine. The car has over 200K on it. I purchased Steel Seal. The guy I talked to from Steel Seal said if radiator fluid is dirty (which it is)than I should flush radiator before using product. I don't have money to replace the gasket and I don't have money for a new car right now. Can this be a fix that gets me through a couple months?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford Expedition. A couple of days ago The engine started losing coolant as soon as the engine cooled. I replaced the coolant only to lose it again when the engine cooled. I was told that it is more likely the intake manifold gaskets leaking. It seems they are right. What is the cost to repair if I take it to a mechanic?
View 1 RepliesThe 289 V-8 of my 66 Mustang was rebuilt and now runs very hot. I have difficulty starting it whether cold or hot?
View 16 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Mustang GT. I've had it for 4 years now, and the engine rattles mostly when the RPMs are between 1500 and 2000, just after pressing the gas. Sometimes it does it when the RPMs are higher, around 2500, and sometimes it does it regardless of RPM after I've been driving it for a long duration. It's done this since I bought it, so it's not a pressing issue, but I'd still like to get it fixed.
View 10 RepliesI got a 2002 mustang v6 and I hadn't flushed the coolant since 5 years ago so I decided to take off the radiator cap off too check the status of the coolant. As I took the cap off, coolant started to slowly spill out of it so I quickly put the cap right on. What causing this? My car was already cooled down and it can't be a head gasket problem cause I don't see white smoke. And I don't see any leaks from hoses and water pump . I park my car outside could it be the sun heating it up and making the coolant flowing out when I take the cap off? What causing this?
View 12 RepliesLike the title says my 98 stang will not start when the engine is hot. It starts perfectly when the engine is cold. When the engine is at normal operating temp the starter cranks like normal but the engine will not catch. If i give it a little gas while cranking it the engine will start until i take my foot off the gas then it shuts down. after i leave the car for about and hour it will start. I have new plugs, wires, alternator, fuel filter, air filter and my last oil change was three weeks ago. the battery holds a good 12.6v, I had the timing fixed in june. I jumped the fuel pump relay and there is good pressure up to the fuel filter.
View 2 RepliesI love my '86 Mustang GT convertible. Currently at 106,000 miles and running strong. The problem is searching at idle. I have replaced every sensor that me and my mechanic can think of. New plugs and wires along with rotor and distributor cap. The engine will start searching, i.e. idling up and down, and at time stall. If I apply slight pressure and idle up to 1,000 RPM the searching stops. Hard to do sometimes as this is a stick.
View 4 RepliesI recently had my front brakes replaced with new rotors and pads at a Firestone dealership in my hometown for half the price the dealer said it would charge me, a service that cost me $280. I knew that I was compromising for inferior parts and Toyota Prius expertise, but I was willing to for the savings. Anyway, my new brakes squeaked from the get-go whenever I came to a slow stop and only just before the car came to a stop.
It wasn't that annoying, so I decided to see if it would go away. It didn't, and I took it back the the Firestone dealership. The mechanic quickly discovered that the "brake hardware" was old and needed to be replaced. And that seems to have done the trick. My question is, SHOULDN'T NEW "BRAKE HARDWARE" BE INCLUDED IN THE NEW BRAKE SERVICE? The hardware I learned include springs and clips, essential to good working brakes, but mere pennies in cost. You'd think they would be included in the original replacement kit. After all, what's the point in replacing the main brake parts if a few old springs and clips might ruin the job?
Last week my wife's battery in her 03 Trailblazer was dead in the morning. I jumped it and it seemed fine all day. That night I tried to start it and it was dead again so I replaced the battery. The next day, she looked out at the parking lot at work and her lights were on after it sat for a while. She could not turn off the headlights no matter what. She said she heard a squealing noise under the hood.
I could not duplicate it when I got home, so I replaced what I think was the lowbeam relay. Later that night I looked, and her headlights were on. I got under the hood and the highbeam relay was squealing. I removed it and the lights went out. I replaced the relay with a new one, but the relay immediately squealed and the lights went on. I have the relay out now and the problem is gone, but we have no highbeams.
What is causing the relay to squeal and turn on the highbeams?
It's been two weeks since the track and the brake still squeals during the last couple feet before the a complete stop (from 10MPH or so to 0), is this normal? I am on stock pads, how long they last typically? I have 32k miles on the car and that was the first time I track the car ever.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Elantra GLS, about 110,000 miles. Just got a timing belt and water pump change about 3,000 miles ago. Over the course of the last six months or so, she's started squealing a bit on cold starts. Originally it was only for a few seconds or so about once a month. However, since I returned from a 1500 mile road trip, the squealing has started happening on every cold start. Turning the wheel full tilt to either side does not seem to have any bearing on the noise, only when I rev the engine gently up past 2500rpms. What this could be?
View 6 RepliesBeen having a problem where the alt belt squeals on cold start, under heavy load and sometimes at complete random when cruising at a steady speed.
It doesn't change when my air ride compressors kick on so I'm assuming it's not the alternator. The belt and tensioner are now brand new from VW. The car has no AC, so I am using belt #066 145 933 K (21.36x1264mm). Replacing the tensioner and belt made it a little better but it's still doing it.
I'm thinking PS pump because it squeals loudly when I nail the throttle around corners. Sometimes if I'm cruising and it starts doing it a little shake of the steering wheel makes it stop.
I have a 2012 Ford F 150 crew cab 4x 4 and have a problem it squeals in reverse. Brakes too and it's only in reverse and it's only for a short period of time as soon as I come to a complete stop.....
View 7 RepliesI recently bought a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 automatic 4.7L. About 3 days after purchase I've begun to notice a couple of strange noises. Now I put this truck through its paces during the evaluation period and noticed no faults at all. Shifts smooth, 4wd works fine, brakes well, no strange noises, quiet and drift-free on the highway to speeds beyond what the state police would more than frown at. No rust, detailed maintenance records, seemed a seriously great truck. But then...
I began to occasionally hear a sharp squeal from what seems to be from the front passenger wheel area when braking to certain speeds. The sound is similar to cheap brake pads squealing or some foreign matter stuck between the rotor. I couldn't reproduce it on demand so I thought maybe something caught on the rotor or some tire shine got slopped in there or something. The sound began to happen more frequently the next day, although still never through the whole braking process, just maybe around 5-10 mph. I called up the dealership and explained what I heard and basically since it's as-is I'm on my own here. So I just planned to take it easy on it then the rest of the day and inspect the brakes and rotors as soon as I could thinking something brake-related. But then...
I heard the same squeal while I was accelerating from a dead stop while going up a steep incline (again 5-10mph or so). Okay, maybe could be brakes still - maybe sticky caliper? Now, here a day later I hear a loud howl from this same area while accelerating up another of our steep inclines here in the Blue Ridge mountains from previously moving at a very slow speed. Same speed range as produced the whine, after accelerating past around 10mph the sound was gone again. After driving it around a lot more over the course of the day this howl repeated one other time in approximately the same way, but on a different road.
I cannot reproduce either sound purposefully, in all but one case the vehicle was not turning when the noise occurred.