Neon :: 2003 Dodge SE Accelerate By Itself - Idle Air Control Valve?
Oct 20, 2010
My dodge neon started to accelerate by its self and stays accelerated. My brakes can barely stop it. The check engine light is on. And it says it is a pinched solenoid sensor for the emissions. But to my knowledge that won't cause my car to accelerate like crazy and remain accelerated to 40mp and remains there.
I did some research and i keep coming up with IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve). Not sure if this is the problem. There could be numerous problems. I am replacing IAC valve this week.
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Looking for a cruise control wiring diagram for a 2001 neon they can share? Or know where I can get it?
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I recently acquired a 2003 Dodge Neon and have also aquired a problem with the automatic transmission.The check engine light was on so I read the codes and they are noted below
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
Based upon some very basic research, I checked into replacing the Transmission Control solenoid.It sounded like this is a pretty common problem for this transmission, so hopefully this would fix the problem.
I was able to get the old one pulled off without to much trouble, but prir to installing the new one I was wondering if there would be a way to test the old one to verify that it was actually bad. I would prefer to not install the new $150 part only to find out that this was not the problem. (and then I could not return it once it had been installed) Maybe some low air pressure on the ports and verify that the ports / flow changes if 12 VDC is applied to the right pins?
A little more information in regards to the "failure" mode. The transmission appears to act the same no matter if it is placed in 1,3 or D. (reverse works fine) I would have expected that it would limit out with the motor taching up pretty high at about 20 MPH in 1(low). It goes down the road fine up to about 55 mph and then the engine starts taching up.
I also tried to reset the error codes with my "craftsman" code reader and it would not do it. I seem to recall seeing something about needing to reset codes before the new solenoid would work. Will pulling the battery for an hour clear the code? Do I need to clear the code?
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When the idle control valve is replaced does the ECU have to relearn the settings?
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I drive a 2003 Dodge Neon SXT with 153,000 miles on. When the engine is first started, there is a "click-click-click" about every 7-10 seconds. I've had the belts changed and adjusted, they freed up a stuck idler (didn't replace the idler, the price was several hundred dollars). Once the engine is warm, the noise goes away.
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The check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:
Definition:
Idle Air Control Valve control circuit.
Probable Cause:
Open or short circuit condition.
Poor Electrical Connection
Failed IAC motor
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My 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
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I have a 2003 Dodge SX 2.0 and the gauges all stop working from time to time. Everything else works fine except the gauges...
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My daughter's 2003 Dodge Neon overheated. We tried to add antifreeze to the reservoir but it leaked out from the reservoir. Once the car cooled down we were able to drive it to Firestone. They replaced the reservoir, thermostat, radiator cap, and flushed the radiator and replaced coolant. The next week the car overheated again. This time we put water in the (new) reservoir and it leaked again. The mechanics tell me this is how those reservoirs are made. Is this true?
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It has gotten colder & my 2003 Dodge Neon SXT (140,000+miles) started having trouble & seems to stall transitioning from park to reverse then into drive. It sometimes seems to shift out of the gear and then will stall/engine revs when gas applied but won't move into drive until warmed. Once the car runs/warms up it seems to be ok. Is this a bigger issue (transmission, spark plugs, etc) than just needing to let car warm up longer?
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon with 110k miles. When starting my car and putting it into gear, I have to rev the engine in order for my car to jump into gear. It also does it when I come to a light. I could be at a complete stop and the car will either jump forward or I will have to rev the engine in order for it to slip into gear. What could be the problem?
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Check engine light computer scan indicates intake manifold runner control valve stuck open. Will it damage the car to drive it in this condition and what does fixing it entail?
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Just bought a used 2003 Dodge Neon SXT for my daughter. The car didn't pass inspection because the fog lights didn't turn off unless I turned the headlight switch completely off. I ordered a new switch w/ fog light from Napa, disconnected the negative cable, removed switch assembly, removed the wiper switch and installed on new headlight switch hooked up harnesses and reinstalled. I was so happy to find the fog lights now turned off.....until I took the car for a ride and found my turn signals and hazards not working......
Repeated the disassembly process making sure harness was completely seated, it was, took assembly back out, looked over the harness, all appeared good, hooked up just the old headlight switch (left windshield wiper switch on the assembly, did not plug in) and hazards now flashed but no turn signal. Reinstalled the new one again still no turn or hazards....thoroughly aggravated I walked away at this point. Am I missing something? The turn signal fuse is the same as the power mirrors, mirrors are working.
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Where can I purchase a distributor for a 2003 Dodge Neon SE?
The engine is running rough, the gas mileage has degraded, and the Check-Engine light is ON.We went to an AutoParts Store to have them read the car's computer output to tell us why the Check-Engine light is ON.The results said that the No. 4 Cylinder was not firing consistently.We replaced all four spark plugs and the spark plug wires. It ran a little better but the Check-Engine light is still ON and the engine still runs rough. I think we should replace the distributor or maybe just the distributor cap (if possible?).
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I have a 2003 dodge neon, a couple days ago i hit a bump and bottomed out on the front bumper and pulled a transmission hoes. after repairing that my car is now over heating, i have replaces the thermostat and the upper radiator hose. i am not leaking coolant, i have talked to several people on this and they say that it is either my water pump or i have a vapor/air lock inside the block, when i was replacing the thermostat i noticed that my coolant was a milky tannish color and was "chunky" and that is what is making people say that it is an air lock. but my hear is not blowing hot air, that makes me believe that it is the water pump.. when i start the car it take the usual 10 or so minutes to reach normal temperature just like it did before all this, but then it shoots up to almost over heating in less than 5 or so minutes.. I am really stumped by this and i am a college student so i rally cannot afforded a mechanic unless absolutely necessary....
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon SXT and the only time my turn signals work is in the morning. by afternoon, when I leave work they won't come on at all.
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I have a engine code for evap sensor sometimes this can be ignored but this is causing me to keep cranking my car in order to start up what should I look for I know there's solenoid and charcoal canister and gas cap which one could be keeping my car from starting the first time.
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I'm removing my idle control valve to clean it. Everything went well until I'm at the last T40 bolt holding it. I go to insert my T40 bolt it doesn't seem to go in. So I'm like oh I guess it was switched to a smaller T so I put a T30 and it's to loose so I'm like aww cmon. Here are 2 pictures (not the best I know) of the bolt in question.
Is it actually stripped or it's some kind of other bolt? I tried a allen but it seems to slip to. If the bolt is stripped.
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon and recently had transmission work done on the car. When I got the car back the radiator cap was left loose, I didn't know this until I took the car for a drive and it overheated. I let the car cool down, replaced the coolant, and made sure the cap was sealed down. The car now has a slow coolant leak, when I turn the car off I can see it drip underneath for about 2 minutes and then it stops. Also, after the car heats up to running temperature I get a burning rubber smell coming through the vents. What could this be? The car only has 70,000 miles on it and I would like to keep it going if I can.
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After its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.
After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.
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I've been having a problem with my car stalling when I brake. It only seems to happen when it's warm outside and I have been running errands and stop for brief periods of time. After about the third stop the car will stall and I have to keep restarting it and keep my foot on the gas. My mechanic seems to think it's the IAC valve. I'm not convinced based on what I've read.
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