Dodge - Neon :: CEL On - Transmission Control System And Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
Oct 11, 2013
I recently acquired a 2003 Dodge Neon and have also aquired a problem with the automatic transmission.The check engine light was on so I read the codes and they are noted below
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
Based upon some very basic research, I checked into replacing the Transmission Control solenoid.It sounded like this is a pretty common problem for this transmission, so hopefully this would fix the problem.
I was able to get the old one pulled off without to much trouble, but prir to installing the new one I was wondering if there would be a way to test the old one to verify that it was actually bad. I would prefer to not install the new $150 part only to find out that this was not the problem. (and then I could not return it once it had been installed) Maybe some low air pressure on the ports and verify that the ports / flow changes if 12 VDC is applied to the right pins?
A little more information in regards to the "failure" mode. The transmission appears to act the same no matter if it is placed in 1,3 or D. (reverse works fine) I would have expected that it would limit out with the motor taching up pretty high at about 20 MPH in 1(low). It goes down the road fine up to about 55 mph and then the engine starts taching up.
I also tried to reset the error codes with my "craftsman" code reader and it would not do it. I seem to recall seeing something about needing to reset codes before the new solenoid would work. Will pulling the battery for an hour clear the code? Do I need to clear the code?
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It has gotten colder & my 2003 Dodge Neon SXT (140,000+miles) started having trouble & seems to stall transitioning from park to reverse then into drive. It sometimes seems to shift out of the gear and then will stall/engine revs when gas applied but won't move into drive until warmed. Once the car runs/warms up it seems to be ok. Is this a bigger issue (transmission, spark plugs, etc) than just needing to let car warm up longer?
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I have a 98 camry with code p0755 - shift solenoid valve#2 malfunction.-What are some of the most common causes. How to test it ,the issues that cause this and what to do also after replacing it if bad? Also are these to be replaced in pairs with both 1st -2nd shift and 2nd to 3rd shift .
If I have high miles on it will adding the 2 -3 quarts of new fluid give me issues as to mixing with the old and part breaking up in transmission(I've heard a lot happens when u replace very old fluid with new or flush it fully)..will be replacing filter also but not the rest of fluid still in transmission at this time. Looking for a link a pic. of the exact location on transmission inside pan .of it(looks similar to other shift solenoid near it )...
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My old 97 f-150's 4R70W started slipping.....so I just installed a rebuilt 98 f-150 unit that had about 10,000 miles on it and also has a transgo shift kit. Got it finished today....and.....
I have an check engine light code p0750 "shift solenoid A malfunction"........when leaving from a stop in Drive, the truck starts going in 2nd gear and just skips 1st gear all together. If I manually shift it, then 1st works fine and shifts through all the gears fine.
But in Drive.. it skips 1st. What to do? or what could be the problem? Where is this solenoid? Can I swap the one out of my old tranny into this one without pulling the whole tranny apart? (I don't mind dropping the pan though...) Or could i have a bad connection somewhere maybe?
Also....When the tranny shifts from 2nd to 3rd the rpms jump about 500 rpm before they drop...kind of seems excessive. Could this be caused by the shift solenoid A malfunction?
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I'm not too knowledgeable about wiring and electrical systems. I'm getting a P1451 code (EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction) on my 99 4.2. I've read that it could be a bad solenoid, bad wiring, or a blown fuse. So far I've;
- checked (and changed) the related fuse
- checked the wiring for damage at the connector
- checked voltage at the connector (12 volts)
- checked the resistance at the solenoid (around 60 ohms)
- actuated the solenoid with a 9V battery (can hear it opening and closing)
I haven't had a chance to check the wiring all the way back up the frame to yet, but I noticed that the ground at the trailer wiring harness has broken off the frame. Would this potentially cause a fault in the upstream wiring? I'm going to slap a new connector on and bolt it back down anyway, but as it's Labour (Labor) Day I'll have to wait for the stores to be open tomorrow.
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I have two codes P0760 and P0755, malfunction shift solenoid B and C, today I took it to Hyundai here in queens ny, I was told that It would cost e 2684.00 to fix my issue, I can't believe that if those two codes are the problem why would it cost 2684.00 ? Where are these solenoids located?
The car feels like your one of the flintstones, it's stuck in 3rd gear and cant get out, then it jerks when it tries to shift, tranny oil is fine not burnt like if the clutches are gone.
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My dodge neon started to accelerate by its self and stays accelerated. My brakes can barely stop it. The check engine light is on. And it says it is a pinched solenoid sensor for the emissions. But to my knowledge that won't cause my car to accelerate like crazy and remain accelerated to 40mp and remains there.
I did some research and i keep coming up with IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve). Not sure if this is the problem. There could be numerous problems. I am replacing IAC valve this week.
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Looking for a cruise control wiring diagram for a 2001 neon they can share? Or know where I can get it?
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I have a 1999 Ford Explorer with the V-6 SOHC that is stuttering and stalling when I try to accelerate. A very slight acceleration will get the vehicle moving, but anything coming close to normal gas pedal pressure causes immediate stuttering and/or stalling. Check Engine light came on when problem started yesterday.
Where is the EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid? I bought a code reader after beating my head against the truck all afternoon and got code "P1451 EVAP System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction". My Haynes book says on the left side frame rail... can't find anything along there that looks like it (based on picture from Rock Auto for replacement part) and found some people online talking about it being in the engine compartment on the passenger side...
Just crawled all over the truck and I think I found the charcoal canister, but couldn't trace it back to the vent solenoid... There was something right next to the canister, but again, it looked nothing like the replacement part listed on Rock Auto...
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2004 Dodge Neon SXT ... Let me say first, I know very, very little about cars. But it all started when I was driving down the road and my car was bucking around 40-45 mph, it stayed that way up until I put some gas in the car the next day and the car started shaking violently when I turned it on. Ever since then my car has been not able to change gears. Reverse works normally however. Now the speedo doesn't work at all and somehow the has gauge will fall or rise depending on whether I'm stopping or going.
So I ran to AutoZone and got a diagnostic ran on my car. It gave me codes P0700, P0731, and P0720. I kept calling around and got horrific quotes around a thousand bucks and mechanics saying my transmission was out. However, I turned it over to a close friend who could work on it for free and has some mechanic experience. The first thing we did was replaced both the output and input speed sensors, which didn't fix it. Then I got a new transmission control module, which for my car I assume it is the TCM and solenoid. Still. That didn't fix the problem. Those were some common fixes I found online for neons. But what else it could be.
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I had a 622 code so I replaced the solenoid pack . Took care of problem for a week or so with no issues... now it's back again... now it start 1st when we had heavy rain then it started again just today in heavy rain? Short maybe?
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Is it possible to take an 'throttle emissions control solenoid" off a 2150 Carburetor and swap it with a different solenoid, say something like an idle swap?? I can't find a new throttle emissions control solenoid, but I see plenty of idle stops.
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My Neon tranny has been acting up lately with the cold weather. When I first put it in gear, if I do not keep it at a near idle sometimes the transmission will go into a total neutral mode. You have to just stop, wait a minute or two, and then begin to take off very slowly.
Once I get couple blocks it works fine. The temps have been in the 30's lately. Will get colder. I have been letting it warm up for about 5 mins before I drive it. I think it may work more if I leave it run longer, maybe 10 mins. The fluid level is full.
Could it have something to do with the fluid being cold? If so, would letting it idle for a very long time, 10 - 15 mins solve this problem? What is causing this? What can be done?
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I have a 2003 Dodge Neon and recently had transmission work done on the car. When I got the car back the radiator cap was left loose, I didn't know this until I took the car for a drive and it overheated. I let the car cool down, replaced the coolant, and made sure the cap was sealed down. The car now has a slow coolant leak, when I turn the car off I can see it drip underneath for about 2 minutes and then it stops. Also, after the car heats up to running temperature I get a burning rubber smell coming through the vents. What could this be? The car only has 70,000 miles on it and I would like to keep it going if I can.
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I would seem that my Neon has started a very small leak seems to be coming from the drive shafts. You may call the differentials. You may also call it a transaxle. I prefer to call them driveshafts and transmissions. I took it to a service place to take a free look at it. I do not have the equipment that they have. They put it on the hoist and when you walk under there it does look like it is coming from one of the driveshafts. They were not Tranny experts and said they could not fix it, but said it would need to be rebuilt or changed. My question is, since they are not tranny experts. Does something like this really need to be rebuilt? Is there not just a seal leaking that can be changed without a rebuild? Why would they make something like that? Just to make you pay more money to get it fixed? I did try some Lucas and then Trans X hoping that would seal it up. Lucas seemed to do nothing. Just put in the Trans X today.
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I am getting a single code - P0753 that comes on now and the van will not shit into 4th gear. It re-appears after clearing the check engine codes in 5 seconds. That seems to be the "A" or 1-2 shift soleniods (or wiring).
Can you get to the shift solenoids after dropping the transmission oil pan or do you have to pull off the side housing cover - that seems like a much more difficult job?
Of course, I will replace both of the solenoids if I can get to them. I will do it myself if I can get to them after dropping the pan but don't know if I will be able if that side cover has to come off.
What is the location and if I should be able to get that drivers side cover off if that is where they are?
I think the 1998 Venture's tranny is the 4T60-E.
I have a 1000+ mile road trip coming up soon so I got to get this fixed shortly. I guess I am glad this didn't happen in the middle of the trip though.
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I'm trying to find information about replacing solenoid in my transmission. I have pdf of repair manual, and it doesn't have much information regarding transmission.
I have a p0766 code, and I think I need to replace Shift Solenoid. Does Technical Information Service Cover this with subscription.
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As I accelerate, there is a humming noise that comes from the transmission area of the car. It does not make the noise when I am in idle, nor if i put the transmission in neutral and rev the engine.
When driving slow the noise is very subtle. As I accelerate faster the noise gets louder. The noise becomes the loudest at 60 mph. Above 60 it seems to calm down some. The noise is like a constant, deep humming sound. The noise gets softer as I slow down and then is gone when at idle again. To me it seems related to the speed of the tire or the CV half shafts turning or something rubbing in the transmission as the car goes faster. However the sound doesn't change when the transmission shifts. It stays constant and only gets louder as I go faster and then softer as I slow down.
While driving and turning hard to the left the sounds almost disappears until the car straightens out again. I have replaced the struts on all four wheels and this seems to only have caused the sound to get louder. I have also inspected the CV joints. There doesn't seem to be any cracks or signs of wear to all 4 joints. And I repacked the bearings.
The only other things I can think of is the cv half shafts are actually bad and need to be replaced. Or the motor mounts are not aligned/worn out and need to be replaced. Or the kickdown band and low reverse band on the transmission need to be readjusted. Or the transmission is has a problem (however it doesn't slip when driving).
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2005 Ford F250 4x4 XL 5.4L 5R110W WITH 177,600 MILES... Tow Haul light flashed after 78 miles (along with other codes) after purchased. I purchased it used. While driving transmission would stop pulling as if it went into neutral and slam back into gear, at same time Tow Haul light be flashing...
Code is P0760 shift solenoid #3, I read from the forums on the site one caused could be the ground wire. We installed a ground strap from battery to tranny
Still does the same.
I have a shift solenoid ordered if needed, knowing the location of #3 solenoid in the tranny is the key to not having to keep dropping the pan. I love this site and have been reading it for long time.
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C1241 is low voltage warning and C1223 is an ABS control system malfunction.
Are or could these be related? Where should I start to troubleshoot the issue?
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Driving at cruising speed in 3 or D, encounter a hill and the truck shudders and bucks in same gear... then will finally downshift and everything is fine. The high miles 232k may be the issue of course. But does this thing have a vacuum modulator or something on the transmission that I can replace besides the fluid and filter that will fix this reluctant down shifting problem?
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