Dodge - Neon :: 2004 - Transmission Not Changing Gears
Apr 9, 2016
2004 Dodge Neon SXT ... Let me say first, I know very, very little about cars. But it all started when I was driving down the road and my car was bucking around 40-45 mph, it stayed that way up until I put some gas in the car the next day and the car started shaking violently when I turned it on. Ever since then my car has been not able to change gears. Reverse works normally however. Now the speedo doesn't work at all and somehow the has gauge will fall or rise depending on whether I'm stopping or going.
So I ran to AutoZone and got a diagnostic ran on my car. It gave me codes P0700, P0731, and P0720. I kept calling around and got horrific quotes around a thousand bucks and mechanics saying my transmission was out. However, I turned it over to a close friend who could work on it for free and has some mechanic experience. The first thing we did was replaced both the output and input speed sensors, which didn't fix it. Then I got a new transmission control module, which for my car I assume it is the TCM and solenoid. Still. That didn't fix the problem. Those were some common fixes I found online for neons. But what else it could be.
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My 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan transmission suddenly does not changing in gear This happened when I was driving. The engine light came one and transmission seems to stuck in a gear. Acceleration is fine but the van slows down quickly if I let go the gas pedal. Seems like it stuck in a gear. How to I troubleshoot and is there anything I can do at home?
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Where can I purchase a distributor for a 2003 Dodge Neon SE?
The engine is running rough, the gas mileage has degraded, and the Check-Engine light is ON.We went to an AutoParts Store to have them read the car's computer output to tell us why the Check-Engine light is ON.The results said that the No. 4 Cylinder was not firing consistently.We replaced all four spark plugs and the spark plug wires. It ran a little better but the Check-Engine light is still ON and the engine still runs rough. I think we should replace the distributor or maybe just the distributor cap (if possible?).
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Last year, July, replaced Trans.modulator..All went well. Now..sloppy shifting, occasion heavy thump changing gears when slowing. Trans. people say All good according to their programs.....but they also feel the same problems. Its an internal problem, they say, too expensive to tear down.Drive it until it dies. ( 161 K on the odometer.....otherwise is perfect. I want to do a flush, then drop the pan, change the screens, tighten the bands and replace Trans. fluid.
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It has gotten colder & my 2003 Dodge Neon SXT (140,000+miles) started having trouble & seems to stall transitioning from park to reverse then into drive. It sometimes seems to shift out of the gear and then will stall/engine revs when gas applied but won't move into drive until warmed. Once the car runs/warms up it seems to be ok. Is this a bigger issue (transmission, spark plugs, etc) than just needing to let car warm up longer?
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My Neon tranny has been acting up lately with the cold weather. When I first put it in gear, if I do not keep it at a near idle sometimes the transmission will go into a total neutral mode. You have to just stop, wait a minute or two, and then begin to take off very slowly.
Once I get couple blocks it works fine. The temps have been in the 30's lately. Will get colder. I have been letting it warm up for about 5 mins before I drive it. I think it may work more if I leave it run longer, maybe 10 mins. The fluid level is full.
Could it have something to do with the fluid being cold? If so, would letting it idle for a very long time, 10 - 15 mins solve this problem? What is causing this? What can be done?
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I would seem that my Neon has started a very small leak seems to be coming from the drive shafts. You may call the differentials. You may also call it a transaxle. I prefer to call them driveshafts and transmissions. I took it to a service place to take a free look at it. I do not have the equipment that they have. They put it on the hoist and when you walk under there it does look like it is coming from one of the driveshafts. They were not Tranny experts and said they could not fix it, but said it would need to be rebuilt or changed. My question is, since they are not tranny experts. Does something like this really need to be rebuilt? Is there not just a seal leaking that can be changed without a rebuild? Why would they make something like that? Just to make you pay more money to get it fixed? I did try some Lucas and then Trans X hoping that would seal it up. Lucas seemed to do nothing. Just put in the Trans X today.
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I recently acquired a 2003 Dodge Neon and have also aquired a problem with the automatic transmission.The check engine light was on so I read the codes and they are noted below
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
Based upon some very basic research, I checked into replacing the Transmission Control solenoid.It sounded like this is a pretty common problem for this transmission, so hopefully this would fix the problem.
I was able to get the old one pulled off without to much trouble, but prir to installing the new one I was wondering if there would be a way to test the old one to verify that it was actually bad. I would prefer to not install the new $150 part only to find out that this was not the problem. (and then I could not return it once it had been installed) Maybe some low air pressure on the ports and verify that the ports / flow changes if 12 VDC is applied to the right pins?
A little more information in regards to the "failure" mode. The transmission appears to act the same no matter if it is placed in 1,3 or D. (reverse works fine) I would have expected that it would limit out with the motor taching up pretty high at about 20 MPH in 1(low). It goes down the road fine up to about 55 mph and then the engine starts taching up.
I also tried to reset the error codes with my "craftsman" code reader and it would not do it. I seem to recall seeing something about needing to reset codes before the new solenoid would work. Will pulling the battery for an hour clear the code? Do I need to clear the code?
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As I accelerate, there is a humming noise that comes from the transmission area of the car. It does not make the noise when I am in idle, nor if i put the transmission in neutral and rev the engine.
When driving slow the noise is very subtle. As I accelerate faster the noise gets louder. The noise becomes the loudest at 60 mph. Above 60 it seems to calm down some. The noise is like a constant, deep humming sound. The noise gets softer as I slow down and then is gone when at idle again. To me it seems related to the speed of the tire or the CV half shafts turning or something rubbing in the transmission as the car goes faster. However the sound doesn't change when the transmission shifts. It stays constant and only gets louder as I go faster and then softer as I slow down.
While driving and turning hard to the left the sounds almost disappears until the car straightens out again. I have replaced the struts on all four wheels and this seems to only have caused the sound to get louder. I have also inspected the CV joints. There doesn't seem to be any cracks or signs of wear to all 4 joints. And I repacked the bearings.
The only other things I can think of is the cv half shafts are actually bad and need to be replaced. Or the motor mounts are not aligned/worn out and need to be replaced. Or the kickdown band and low reverse band on the transmission need to be readjusted. Or the transmission is has a problem (however it doesn't slip when driving).
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Bought a 2009 Chevy HHR with 35,000 miles in July, 2010. In the summer of 2011 the ignition was replaced, as the key would not turn. (The engine was running at the time. It was necessary to disconnect the battery to turn off the engine.) At 55,000 miles the transmission suffered "catastrophic failure" and the entire transmission assembly was replaced. (The engine light never came on, although the transmission was slipping frequently.) After driving the car with the new transmission between 100 and 200 miles, the engine light came on. The error code indicated a faulty transmission fluid pressure switch. The transmission changed gears harshly at times and the automatic door locks stopped working properly. Sometimes they would lock when the car was taken out of "park" and sometimes not. Likewise, they would not always unlock when the transmission was put in "park." After replacing the switch, the technician said that for no reason the security light came on briefly as did the passenger airbag "on" indicator light. Once again, after having driven between 100 and 200 miles, the engine light is on again, and gears are sometimes changing harshly. No diagnosis yet. Do I need an exorcist?
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I have a 1999 Honda Civic DX hatchback with a 5-gear manual transmission that I have been driving since the day it left the dealership. This morning, on my way to work, I was shifting from third gear to fourth gear and the car stalled. This has happened three times in the last month or so. I recently had my transmission fluid flushed. I'm 95 percent sure this started after the transmission fluid was flushed.
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I drive a 2004 Dodge Neon, 2.0 base-model that has had zero problems since I bought it, and regular maintenance has religiously been maintained. Yesterday, after having already driven once without any problems, I went to leave again, and it would not start.
When I turned the key, it started to start but just stopped, but my dash lights and radio all came on (and still come on) fine.
I called out AAA and they tried jumping it just in case, but to no avail. My friend then took out the starter AND the battery and took them to get tested- both were perfectly fine.
There is no wire corrosion, either, and no noise at all when I turn the key. Instead, everything else comes on except the car itself.
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So, I have a 2004 Dodge Neon that had a radiator fail, pushing coolant into the transmission. I tried one garage that wouldn't touch it, but did find another one willing to try a power flush. I had that done, and several subsequent flushes over two weeks left me with clean transmission fluid. It's been about 3 weeks (and one 200 mile trip) without any issues, but I'm a little worried about any damage that might've been done.
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So I changed transmission fluid on my 1.8t GLS because I was having difficulty shifting out of gears on cold starts. It seemed to work fine for a few days and now I'm back to square one, it still doesn't want to shift correctly!
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In the process of moving to a new house our Neon SE (2.0L, SOHC) sat for about a week without being driven. When my wife goes to start it (5am Monday morning: FUN), it turns but won't actually start. I throw on the code reader and get a P0508, Idle Air Control valve sense circuit Low. At this point, I've put on a new IAC valve, note: the throttle body looked good and in working order, and spliced on a new OEM wiring harness, but the pos still won't fire up. When tracing the wires, there was no indication of them being frayed or short-circuiting. The next step, following this code P0508, would be to change out the PCM. From my research, if the PCM is truly bad, there's usually one or several codes indicating as much; i.e. I'd be getting a lot more than just a P0508.
Could the P0508 been a red herring? I generally associated a bad starter or starter solenoid with a clicking noise, but would this still be worth checking out? On that same note, could the culprit be a bad ignition coil even without any codes showing for IC-related problems?
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I have a 2004 Dodge Neon that I've been troubleshoot for awhile now and can't figure it out. My engine shakes pretty badly and found I had some broken engine mounts on my passenger side. I've replaced them and calibrated my struts but the problem persists.
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My car has an intermittent crackling noise when changing gears from park to reverse, park to drive, and vice versa. It also starts squeaking (coming from the engine) when backing up. The crackling noise almost sounds like sparks.
Having that issue in their generation 2 Prius? I was told by the service adviser that it was the brakes. I think it sounds like a bad issue, although I was told it was completely normal, and maybe they can clean something. Is this pretty commonplace?
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Intermittently (although lately it's pretty common, perhaps due to the Texas heat?) my car will take several seconds to start. It sounds like the battery is dead, i.e., it sounds as if it's about to start but it straining, and then it eventually engages.
When this happens, I know that a) I won't be able to turn on cruise control and b) I won't be able to accelerate easily. at best I can get it to 60 mph
Similarly, even if I start up without a problem, and I'm cruising down the HWY at 80 MPH, the car will suddenly loose momentum and won't go above 60 mph. And I can't turn on cruise control (cc shuts down, in fact, if it was on).
This is a 2005 Neon, by the way.
I have replaced the battery and cabling to the battery to no avail.
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One of the gas stations where I live recently added e15 and e30 gasoline to their pumps. I drive a 2005 Dodge Neon SXT and was wondering if either one would be ok to put in this car. I regularly put in the e10 gas and have done so for all of my vehicles since I have been driving. I read that e15 should be fine but was wondering about the e30 gas.
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My car was acting like it was in neutral. After cooling down for 20 minutes, it would drive about a block. Then it would not drive.
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My 2003 Dodge Neon started overheating. We replaced the thermostat, temperature sending unit, flushed the radiator, checked for blockages, cleaned the radiator, changed the head gasket and water pump.It can run for about 10-15 minutes driving or 30 minutes idling before it overheats. The fans will kick on. The thermostat opens up. Pressure builds up on the radiator hose. When it gets hot, it boils back into the reservoir.I've been careful not to let it get into the red since the head gasket change.We sent the head off and had it planed.
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