Nissan - Maxima :: 1998 - Won't Start When Hot Outside - Ignition Switch?
Aug 14, 2014
The car is a 1998 Nissan Maxima. As you well know a car's interior in the summer is about 10 to 15 degrees more than the outside. When the outside temperature is 80 degrees or more I can't readily start the car. I turn the key and nothing happens. Sometimes I put the switch into the "on" position wait about 20 to 30 seconds, turn the key again and the engine starts. I think I need an ignition switch. My question is why does this happen? What does the temperature of the car's interior have to do with the poor operation of the switch? The interior of the car must be about 75 degrees or less for the car to start.
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I have a 1998 Nissan Maxima. I just had both top and bottom valve gaskets replaced due to oil seepage. About a week prior to this repair, I noticed the car would have trouble starting, but it was very intermittent.Now I am experiencing the starting issue 50% or more of the time when trying to start.I'm horrible at describing the actual issue, but I am going to try. I turn the key and it has trouble turning over quickly. No tinking or clicking or anything like that. I have had the battery and alternator checked and both are fine. When i had the valve gaskets replaced, the shop i used checked the starter and told me it was o.k. I'm really having a tough time figuring this out and don't want to get "taken for a ride" money wise.
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I haven't had a check-engine light yet, but at idle, my 1996 Maxima has a sporadic misfire -- there's no rhythm to it at all. Does this sound like a symptom of a coil going bad? What would be a good way to test them without having to replace all 6 of them? The car has about 175,000 miles on it. I just put in a new set of NGK iridium plugs, and hope I didn't damage any wiring in the process (that doesn't seem likely, but I guess I can't eliminate that possibility).
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My 98 Maxima won't idle without dying, it sputters when you accelerate, and it tries to die while coasting. I've changed two O2 sensors (AutoZone gave me the code for bank 1 sensor 1 & 2) changed spark plugs, tried fuel injector cleaner, oil change, and cleaned MAF sensor & checked the wiring. It;s still spitting out the black exhaust. Although after changing the O2 sensors it quit for about a day or two but started again (I'm guessing the other sensors need to be changed to) But the main problem is once it warms up, it really runs like crap, and is a major gas hog. I'm getting about 12 Mpg.
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I have a 1998 Maxima with 57K miles on it. I just bought it about a month ago. Anyway, a week ago I noticed It felt very "choppy" when I shifted into Drive or Reverse. It felt like it was going to stall but it never did. The Service Engine Soon light has been on for about 3 weeks but now, when I go up hills especially, that light blinks. I can still drive it but I shift into Neutral at stoplights to avoid hearing the rough idle while in Drive. Went to Pep Boys yesterday - they had the car for about an hour and then informed me that they would need to keep the car for a full day because of the "complex issues involved" - especially concerning the codes. The codes they read were:
p0300 random misfire
p0325 knock sensor
p0440 evap emission
My car passed smog test abut 3 months ago. I can drive it OK it just is very choppy and so there's not a lot of power, especially going up hills.
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My car has been stalling out while at stop lights and while driving as well as spuddering and hesitating . i brought it in to the shop twice and both times they said it ran fine . they ran the code and gave me a new oxygen sensor and it still stalled. i brought it to autozone today and they ran the code and camshaft position sensor came up. so i put a new one in and it still is stalling and hesitating to drive. also smells really bad when it kick in. What could be wrong . short circuit or wiring trouble maybe? fuel pump ? crankshaft? electrical problem? spark plugs? cant get a straight answer.
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My wife was complaining of white smoke coming from the back of the car and that she smelled gasoline. So I took her 1999 Nissan Maxima to the shop and they put it on the machine and told me that the ignition rod was stuck open and that gasoline was leaking into the engine. They also said that it was not safet to drive. What an ignition rod is and why the car is not safe to drive? The car's value is questionable at this point.
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1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
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I have a noise that has developed in the front drivers side(wheel area). When I turn right -- it can only be heard at slow speed, when I start from a stop-- there is a " tapping" type noise that appears to come from the wheel area. Is it possible that I am about to have problems from the CV axle?
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my car won't start. It would try to turn over occasionally, The battery checks out. i tried to jump start it bypassing the battery with no results. multimeter reads current though cable going from battery to alternator. what is wrong with my car??
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I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima and after changing the oil added Lucas Oil Stabilizer and when I went to start the car the engine shook for about 3 seconds and I was unable to start it again. Towed it to Nissan service and they said codes came up as the camshaft sensors were bad and engine was flooded and need to dry them out before testing it out. So on Monday I received a call from the service manager and he told me that they tried replacing the camshaft sensors but it would not start. He then said that his technions working on the car believe the timing chain jump causing vavles to get bent. Cause the engine has 107k the will not repair my car and recommend a new engine. I informed the service manager I find it hard to believe that any vavles could have gotten bent with the engine running only 3 seconds and had my car towed back to my house. I tried replacing the crankshaft shaft sensor and it still will not start. So before I attempt to open the timing chain cover wanted to see if the timing chain could have jumped only running for 3 seconds and to see if it might be something else? Still don't understand why after adding the oil stabilizer to the oil it would had stalled out like that when it was running so good and starting up with no problems. I read on line that Nissan has had many issues with their timing chain guides wearing out but can't see how the oil stabilizer would effect the guide.
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My 1993 Maxima at times will not start. There is no rhyme or reason for it not starting. Either that or I have not found a particular reason or reasons for why it will not start. Sometime it is over night and at times it may happen when it sat for a couple of hours. Took it to a garage which they check the battery, starter, ignition switch, starter relay and all was okay.
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I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima. The past few weeks, it sounds like it's getting harder and harder to start. Last week, it wouldn't turn over, and had somebody jump me. I took it to Pep Boys and they tested the battery and alt and said both were fine. Tonight, it wouldn't start again, I had somebody try to jump me and no sounds/no activity. About an hour later, I went back to get my car and it was able to start..
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A 2003 Nissan Maxima. The brakes were rebuilt about a year ago, and were fine for 6 months. Maybe 3000 miles. Then they developed the following behavior. In the morning or after being parked for a while (parking brake off) when backing out of the garage they'd make a low pitched but quite audible rubbing noise, and then also going forward, the same noise. Whumpa space Whumpa space Whumpa. There is no braking effect, and the behavior does not happen every day -- maybe once every three days. While driving forward at low speed, gently pressing the brake pedal or gently pulling up on the parking brake lever quiets the noise, and it does not recur that session. The noise seems to originate in the rear of the car, consistent with it's being affected by the parking brake. The brakes function perfectly otherwise.
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I bought a 1997Nissan Maxima from my cousin and as he tried teaching me how to drive stick I stalled and the car did not want to start back up we were able to pop start it it to get back to my house. I am unsure whether it is the ignition switch or the relay because the car will start sometimes after I keep trying to start the engine for a while...
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I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima and never had a problem with it until recently. My husband and I took a long drive to NJ from NH and went we stopped for gas and turned off the car, we could not start the car back up. We naturally called AAA, but once they came, about a hour later, the car started right up. Since that time, the car has repeated this several times. I take a trip to the grocery store, get back to the car, no problem, then make another short stop and then try to start the car and it does not start. I have no problem starting the car going to work every day and when I come home from work. It only happens when I make short intermittent trips, sometimes 2-3 stops. It always starts when there has been at least 1/2 hour between starts. I have taken it to 2 mechanics and they can never reproduce the problem I now have a car I have no confidence in. I am afraid even to get gas for this car.
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I recently bought a 98 Passat with what was thought to be an ignition switch problem.. well I changed the switch today and the problem is still there.. it would start sometimes and and sometimes it won't do anything. Not even click.. and sometimes when it starts it sounds like the starter isn't getting enough juice.. another weird thing is that I can start the car without pressing the clutch.(when it does start).. There is actually a couple of electrical oddities going on.. the moonroof would go up by itself randomly and the radio (after matket) doesn't save any of my presets. Every time I turn the car off the radio resets.. so I'm thinking some weird electrical problem is going on..
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My 2000 Maxima manual, only in hot wether after driving for 30-40 min. revolutions start rising by itself and can go very high, becomes impossible to drive,have to shot off the car. I have this problem for 10 years and dealer is saying that they never heard anything like that.
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1990 Maxima. The car hesitates/surges occassionally after warm start, but only surges for about first 1/4 mile, then its OK. Sometimes it idles low, especially when I come to a stop and apply brakes hard. I believe the two issues are related. This has been getting progressively worse over past few years.
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We have a 2002 Maxima SE, 6 speed manual with 127,000 + miles. The noise is similar to what we used to hear from the spokes, when we attached a playing card or piece of cardboard to the wheels of our bikes. The noise only presents itself when the clutch is engaged and the wheels start rolling. It happens in forward and reverse.
The dealer replaced the right wheel bearing assembly and both outer tie rods. But that did not eliminate the noise. They then fingered the transmission. The transmission folks said it was not the transmission or the clutch release bearing.
Confused, we just keep driving the car. Whatever it is doesn't appear to affect the driveability - yet. The clutch engages smoothly, the shifing is smooth and it does not pop out of gear. We've been thinking of selling the car, but this noise has to be resolved first.
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2000 Maxima - I just changed the head gaskets, got it back together and no start, no spark, solid security light and linking error to ecu. 50 miles to a nissan dealer. I have 12v to the injectors but no ground, I just checked spark last night and have none. I tried all three keys, will no battery for a month or two cause key security issues? I hate to drag it to Nissan and have them tell me I need a new ecu for a few thousand dollars. Does a security issue cause a linking issue?
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