Nissan - Maxima :: 2002 - Engine Randomly Sputter / Never Turning Off
Jun 21, 2011
I own a 2002 Maxima that has 216K miles on it; the engine has begun to randomly sputter (never turning off), and, when this is happening and the accelerator is intermittently depressed, the tachometer does not register any increase in RPMs, plus the car does not pull itself forward. Yet occasionally the engine does rev itself, and the car lunges forward. Also, the dashboard has highlighted the ABS light, battery light, and brake light in a flashing manner at times while this is occuring. Have checked the 3-1/2 month old battery, transmission, and alternator, and all are working fine...while the car is behaving, mind you. Also, have put a gas treatment in the tank to dispel the bad gasoline notion. My mechanic has said it's registering 17 volts, when it should register 14 volts, but he hasn't identified the source. What's going on?
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My 2012 Maxima has a combined heated/cooled driver's seat. In the heat function the heater will randomly shut off. If I shut the car off and then restart the car the heater function will resume. It happens inconsistently and I've not been able to establish a known pattern to predict the behavior. In February 2014 (under warranty) I had the switch, the heater module processor and heater replaced. In February of 2015 the problem reoccurred.
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1990 Nissan Maxima, i noticed that after changing the struts/springs on my car that when i make a hard right turn while accelerating the car makes a terrible grinding noise. I know this is a classic sign for a CV joint, but could it be anything else? It is definitely not tire rubbing, definitely metal sound. It doesnt seem to be getting worse.
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Okay so I recently replace the rear shock absorbers and now every time I take a corner or when I'm going on a surface that's not flat or just if I go over a bump too quick. I here squeaking sounds I replace the shock absorber as well as the strut mount to no avail I've found the noise I've located location of the squeak if where coil meets the mount. I don't want to replace the coil it does look like it might need some replacing the protective metal sheet is gone on the top some of the bare metal is exposed but I would hate to replace the spring and have noise again
Car is a 2003 nissan maxima with 144k ....
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It is a '90 Nissan Maxima. I just replaced my drivers side axle (cv joint was clicking), and now my car vibrates at highway speeds when turning right. I am pretty sure I seated the axle correctly....could it be a bad axle? I heard that turning the axle 90 degrees and reinstalling may work? I got a new axle (Empi brand).
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I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima GLE. I had had problems with it misfiring. It said it was misfiring on cylinder 6. Put all new spark plugs on it, same problem. Put new ignition coils, still same problem. Had it checked by several mechanics. NONE of them could find why it wasn't getting power. Then about 2 weeks ago I was driving it home & it died. Got it started & it drove less than a mile & died again. when it died that time, I suddenly had NO POWER to anything in the car. Lights don't work, no horn, no radio, no beeping when key is inserted--NOTHING. if I let it sit for a day or two, it will start clicking & then interior lights will come on--until I put the key in it & turn it over. Then I am back to no power. It does not crank or anything when I turn the key over. I have had the battery checked and they said it is still good, had 100% charge--even after being off the car for over 24 hours. I have been wondering if it is the ignition switch or starter...
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I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima with 118K that the heating and a/c fan always blows on high. Even when you turn everything off. I've been told it's the blower motor resistor. Is there anyway to check with a volt meter before purchasing new one? Once I buy the new one I don't think I can return
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I own a 2002 Maxima with 102,000 miles. For a while, the car has been making a rattling noise while I am driving and pressing on the gas pedal. The noise occurs frequently whether starting from stopped position or accelerating while driving. The engine has checked out fine and a suggestion was made that I use better gas. I filled up at Chevron with '89, which is the grade I have always used but at discount gas stations. The noise however continues. What may be causing the rattling, clicking, tinny noise?
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2002 Nissan Maxima with 125K miles. When going around a curve to the left there is a noticable rumble or vibration in the right front tire area. Going straight at high speeds is smooth and quiet. I checked the large neoprene boot and it does not appear to be cracked or anything but there is a joint(I believe it is either the ball joint or tie rod) that had a lot of grease around it, even away from where it connects. Could that be the problem? I could not get under car to see exactly where grease was coming from. Just a quick check by sticking my hand up there and feeling around.
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I have a 2002 Nissan Maxima SE (Automatic) it just started to run rough and has been drinking gas at an alarming rate. Almost 1/2 tank in about 60 miles. The car doesn't seem to be running slow or smelling of gas. I was told it was fuel injection issues and have added some cleaner but I am shocked with how bad it go so quickly. I had two motor mounts replaced in the car recently (the front one a day before this started). Would they have knocked something out of wack?
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Okay so I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima 150k and the problem that I'm experiencing is that when the vehicle is in drive my foot on the brake for example at a red light and I have the AC on the engine will begin to stumble similar to a misfire however no check engine light will be displayed if I were to turn the AC off and sit at a red light in here with my foot on the brake the car idles fine and smooth the car currentl drives fine accelerates fine idles fine it's only when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake and the car and in drive with the AC on that the engine stumbles accelerating or cruising any speed above idle with a/c the runs smooth its only at idle and the simple is not predictable it happens often but at random intervals
What I've done so far 1.5 years ago I put in iridium spark plugs Recently cleaned the throttle body its a electronic throttle body Fuel pump and filter were replace in March 2016I tested the alternator put a load on it to see if the engine would stumble but it didn't
My a/C blows cold air and everything in the car works.
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i have a 2008 maxima with 30000+ miles. its service engine soon light came on recently. i disconnected the battery the light would go off, but would come back on again after a few days. it happened several times now. once i got a code P0011 from autozone while the light was on. the last time the light was on was a week ago and this time the light finally went off by itself yesterday. i took my car to a dealer today. a service advisor told me the reading on his code-reader is NO CODE and the car is fine!. so what have happened and what is wrong with it? could it be serious?
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I just purchased a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE with 219,000 miles. I've had it less than two weeks, and the Service Engine Soon light just came on. I live somewhere that requires emissions testing in order to register the vehicle. My temporary plate will expire soon, so I need to get the car to pass emissions.
This is my first Japanese car and first non-American vehicle. I didn't know until after I had given the check to the guy selling the car that he used premium gas. He said that Nissan recommends it. I've never driven a car that required premium gas before and wasn't keen on the idea since here, it is 40¢ a gallon more expensive than regular unleaded.
I spoke with my landlord about it, as he is a certified Honda mechanic. He told me to first try getting half a tank of regular unleaded and putting it in with some fuel injector cleaner. He said if I didn't notice any decrease in performance or knocks, to then just add a bottle of of fuel injector cleaner to every other tank of gas.
I got a half tank of regular unleaded with a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and didn't have any issues. I then filled the tank with regular without any fuel injector cleaner. I used about ¾ of that tank when the service engine soon light came on. I took the car to Valvoline to get the codes read, and while they couldn't give me any code numbers, they said it was something to do with emissions.
Here are my questions:
Is it possible the light came on because I switched from premium to regular unleaded or perhaps because I would need to add fuel injector cleaner to every tank of gas I get and not every other tank as my landlord said he does with his car?
Should I try either adding fuel injector cleaner to every tank of gas or just switch back to premium? If I try either of those, and one of those was the problem, how long would it take for the Service Engine Soon light to turn off?
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I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima 134k and i bought it with the p0300 check engine light on a looked at the engine and though it was an air box problem because they had previously installed a K&n filter so I went to the junk yard and got a 2000 nissan maxima air box and new filter i changed the oil and checked the spark plugs they look new and the dates on the coils are 2012 and 2013 and still its misfiring. i bought it to a mechanic and he discovered a vacuum tank had previously broke and they glued back together so i replace that with a factory one today same problem still misfiring but it got better but now its a p0306 then i erased the code and p0304 came back i erased it then p0302 came back then i change the cam sensors, and the crankshaft sensor and now it get a p0300.
Symptoms:
*when sitting for a long time HARD TO START ( takes multiple cranks to start it ) but once i leave it off for short time like 30 min it starts right up no problem
* when stop at a stop light in drive i can feel small little explosions sounds like my car is beat boxing
*performance is strong good acceleration no problem on that i just don't want it misfiring
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I keep failing my emissions because my check engine light keeps coming on. I was told that the problem was the catalytic converter rear and needed to buy one for both sides. The problem I am having that I don;t know which Catalytic Converter I should buy. I know without it is causing my car to stutter. Which I should get?
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I own a 2003 Nissan Maxima SE with a 6-speed manual transmission. The car has just under 113,000 miles on it. I've religiously maintained the vehicle per the owner's manual and overall it is in excellent condition. In particular, we change the oil on a regular basis per the maintenance schedule. However, on several occasions we have started to hear rattling coming from the engine. The rattling occurs at all engine speeds and in all gears and it doesn't matter whether the car has just been started or if the engine has been running for a while.
When the rattling has gotten more prominent, we've taken the car to the dealership and also to our local oil change place and on both of those occasions, they've told us that the engine oil was VERY low. Also on both of those occasions, we were well within the recommended range in between oil changes (<3000-3500 miles). We have not noticed leaking oil in our driveway or in our garage. I am wondering about the potential reasons why we could be losing oil, and if we aren't seeing any in our driveway where it's going? I've mentioned this to friends and they've said it's 'burning oil' - but we're not noticing any strange smells or smoke. The car is ~10 years old but it's fun to drive and in great condition.
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I have a 1998 Maxima with 57K miles on it. I just bought it about a month ago. Anyway, a week ago I noticed It felt very "choppy" when I shifted into Drive or Reverse. It felt like it was going to stall but it never did. The Service Engine Soon light has been on for about 3 weeks but now, when I go up hills especially, that light blinks. I can still drive it but I shift into Neutral at stoplights to avoid hearing the rough idle while in Drive. Went to Pep Boys yesterday - they had the car for about an hour and then informed me that they would need to keep the car for a full day because of the "complex issues involved" - especially concerning the codes. The codes they read were:
p0300 random misfire
p0325 knock sensor
p0440 evap emission
My car passed smog test abut 3 months ago. I can drive it OK it just is very choppy and so there's not a lot of power, especially going up hills.
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I have 2006 Nissan Maxima SE with the 3.5 engine. I have used regular gas for the entire 88K miles. Lately the engine knocks (diesel like). I asked my guy what to do. He said a nitrogen fuel injector cleaning.... Did that. No change. When I use premium it stops. However, I suspect something more is wrong. In fact, I suspect a head gasket issue. How can I diagnose without going to the garage? If it is the head gasket, am I doomed (cost a fortune to fix).
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1998 Nissan Maxima had a check engine light come on and started running very rough. I took it to get a code read and came up with P0320 and P0325. I'm not worried about the 0325 since that's a knock sensor. 0320 is a misfire on cylinder 2.
With the car idling, I pulled the power connector from coil pack 2 to see if it made a difference in the idle - nope. I did the same for the other cylinders, and each responded with a noticeable change in the idle, which was remedied when it was reconnected.
I moved the coil pack from #2 to #4 (swapping them) and the same problem existed - idle was rough and didn't make a difference when I pulled the power on 2, but it did on all other coil packs. So, it seems the coil pack ins't the problem since multiple packs don't seem to make 2 work, but they work on other 4 and 6.
I then pulled the spark plug from cylinder 2, it was very black and looked in bad shape. I replaced it. Still no love.
I then put a spare plug in the coil and was able to see spark as the engine ran, so it seems that the coil pack at 2 is getting juice.
So, I have gas (big odor when the car is running - seems super rich) I have spark. Still running very rough and the 0320 code remains.
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When the car is cold it runs fine. After driving for 10-15 minutes the transmission slips, while driving the engine revs and then engages again.I have only noticed the disengaging/engaging as speeds less than 40 MPH. When the car is in neutral and placed into drive it may take several seconds to engage which happens about 60% of the time. Could this be a sensor failure or time for a new transmission?
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I own a 2002 GTI 1.8T, it only has 69000 miles on it, fully loaded, everything but power seats. So far I have had major issues on it. At first the car was randomly turning off and the EPC light came on, engine light is on and airbag light is on.
So far the car has a new speed sensor that fixed the EPC light. Engine light came on I plugged the computer in and code came up to replace the temperature and ignition sensor, took care of that, but light is still on. Airbag light is on for some time and Autobarn wants 150$ to check it but not fix it, and im not going to be doing that.
I also have new front brakes, new CV joints, and new tires on it.
The issues are at hand: If i am at a stop light the car will just turn off randomly, I can turn it back up but I want to stop that part. Sometimes the radio will go off and turn on by itself at random times.
When I am making a hard left, I hear a jolt in the back like something pushed the car and the car will die. Just yesterday I was driving, the ABS and Traction light came on and the back tires screeched and the car just floored by itself.
Yesterday the window did not want to go down and fell out of the socket and currently i have tape on the window to hold it up, i can live with that.
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