I have recently noticed that if I am driving at speeds above 40 mph and apply the brakes, the car (including the steering wheel) seems to buck/shake. I've learned to ease off the gas and let the speed drop before applying the brakes-- this seems to work, but I'm concerned about what is going on. This is an '07 Nissan Versa...
View 7 RepliesI have a 2007 Sante Fe Limited that has 93k on it. Within the last year I have noticed the steering wheel will shimmy when you apply the brakes at high speeds, it's slowly came to the point now that anything above 40mph will cause the steering wheel to shake while applying the brakes. I am guessing I have warped or unevenly worn front rotors. The car supposedly had a break job done at 74k and this started happening at about the 90k mark.
I was looking at these : Front Performance Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for Santa FE 07 09
Second question, any tool list or required sockets sizes to complete a front rotor and pad replacement? I have a floor jack, jack stands, a set of 3/8 deep metric sockets. I also have a breaker bar. This is my only car so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start taking stuff apart.
This summer I replaced the inner and outer tie rod ends on a 97 Nissan Altima, had a bent wheel replaced, and had an alignment done. Everything worked smoothly for the last 5,000 or so miles. I had my tires rotated and balanced recently which created a new problem, a shaky steering wheel most noticeable at slow speeds. I've had a similar problem before and had it fixed by balancing the tires. I took it back in to have them rebalanced, thinking they may have forgotten to do it the first time. They rebalanced them and the problem has not changed at all.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2007 Nissan Versa and my AC will only run on the highest setting. The dealership suggested that the whole panel with AC dials needed to be replaced, they did say they were not sure this was the problem. In doing some research on the web I did see discussion regarding a Nissan Altima that had what sound like a similar problem and the fix was a part called the "blower resistor" which was much cheaper and could be fixed at home.
View 2 RepliesThe little window on my gear stick (the car is an automatic) is broken, and so when I shifted into Drive (D) I did not realize I actually shifted into "2" which is right below that. I drove on the highway for about 15 miles between 60-70 mph before I finally figured out that the source of the noise (basically it just sounded like the car was revving and straining up a hill the whole time. Since we just had the car worked on, I thought it was related to that). Once I realized I was in 2 I slowed down and shifted to D.
Everything seemed fine until I got off the highway. At the stoplight off the exit ramp, I went to turn right on red after coming to a full stop and nothing happened. It seemed the engine stalled, although I did not feel any shuddering or tell-tale signs that it was about to stall. The radio did not hiccup and the windshield wipers kept going without pause, but the car was essentially off, as it didn't even rev when I put my foot on the gas. I restarted it and drove home with no issues.
The next day when we took it out, we noticed a clicking sound. Not a single click, but a continuous sound, like an enhanced version of a playing card on the wheel of a bicycle. It doesn't seem to matter what rpm, what speed, the sound is present, although not necessarily consistently on. When we press the accelerator or ease off, we get a burst of the sound. Sometimes at higher speeds it is more consistent, occasionally when idly we can hear it softly in the background. No stalling occurred that day.
Tonight I drove it to work, which is a 20 minute drive on the highway. What started off as the playing card/bicycle sound soon turned into a sound that is reminiscent of a roller coaster being pulled up the first giant hill. Sort of a faster cranking sound. Then again, without preamble or warning, it stalled when I came to a stop off the exit to my workplace.
I haven't checked anything under the hood. The oil was changed almost 4000 miles ago. I don't even know what to begin checking first. I just put $ into the vehicle to fix it after an uninsured driver hit me (fender bender) and am still waiting on court proceedings from that..
I have a 2007 Nissan Versa, which I love. The AC automatically comes on when you turn on the defroster, but the light on the button will not go off when I turn on the heat. I assume that means the AC stays on as well. It has been doing this all winter, so I have been trying not to use the heat. As I understand it, my husband was at the dealer and the mechanic said something about having to hold the button down for 20 seconds to reset something, but I have tried this and it does not work.
View 2 Replies2013 Nissan Sentra, 2.0L 62,000 miles. Sometimes when I apply the brakes, the steering wheel shakes. It usually happens on the highway when slowing down from speeds above 40mph. I thought that it might be the rotors, but it doesn't happen all the time. The severity of the shaking also differs from time to time.
View 3 RepliesGot an issues with my 02 Santa Fe. Shaky steering wheel at all speeds during straight driving more than in turns. 130k miles on the vehicle.
The tires are worn, and need replacing. No missing wheel weights that I saw. No issues with braking.
At slow speeds it feels like the front end is swaying back and forth. I am planning to have the tires replaced, but I feel that this is more than just the tires.
I suspect ball joints / tie rods are the culprit. Is there a good way to check these components from home verses going to a shop and having them diagnose the issue.
With ball joints / tie rods, I am confident that I can change them on my own.
Still chugging along!!
So, I haven't been the kindest car owner to my poor little hatchback. I do my best to get regular oil changes, but other than replacing the brakes last year, I have not kept up with most of the manufacturer's suggested regularly scheduled maintenance. The car has about 130,000 miles. Manual Transmission. My clutch feels a little loose, and I have been noticing a slight grinding sound when shifting (only from neutral to first gear).
My Honda Accord 2002 feels like brakes apply themselves when driving. Car slows down and brake pedal is really sensitive meaning it feels harder than usual and easier to brake. Dont know if it is the brake master cylinder, brake booster or something else.
View 4 RepliesAt about 92k miles (2 months ago), my 2005 Prius started having a battery issue... When going about 40 mph and above and not having to stop or apply my brakes, my battery would drain (to just 1-2 bars) in about 5-10 minutes and not recharge until I got into stop-and-go traffic (this would happen about 9 out of 10 times). Mpg was still pretty good during that time, but when I finally had to stop, the engine had to kick on to recharge the battery and my mpg just sucked...I went from averaging 45 mph to 39 mph.
I took my car into the dealership for them to have a look and to also perform my 95k service. When I told them that I feared the battery was dying, they said that the good news was that I had another year on my warranty (not sure if the battery warranty is extended in California). The service advisor eventually came back and stated that they had also observed the battery charging problem and that they had to pinpoint the exact problem (either an igniter, a battery cell, or something else that I can't remember). They even started the process of getting me a rental car for a couple of days.
However, the service advisor then came back and stated that no problem was found...he even walked me back into the garage where they were working on all of the cars just to ask the technician working on my car if there was a problem...he also stated that no problem was found. When I asked how initially a problem was found and then suddenly not found, I really didn't get a straight answer (I should have pressed harder). Anyway...after 10 hours in the shop, they pulled my car around and the manager came out to speak to me...stating how the 95k service showed no problems and how no problem with the battery was found. When I asked about how to prove to them that there really was an issue, he stated that if the problem kept occurring I could bring it back in and they could have one of their tech leads drive it home for the night as kind of a road test.
I have a 2007 F150 FX-2 which i bought new. I have about 60,000 miles on it, and every 8,000-10,000 miles i develop a pronounced vibration when i apply the brakes. When i first had this problem, at about 10,000 miles on the odometer, the dealership replaced the pads and turned the rotors, but the problem resurfaced before another 5,000 miles had passed. About 10,000 miles later the problem resurfaced, the dealership said they replaced the rotors.
The problem resurfaced again at about 37,000 miles, but the dealership claimed that since I was out of warranty. Being handy, I replaced the rotors myself, but now, about 15,000 miles later, I'm experiencing this issue again. Is this just a common problem i will have to live with? I don't tow anything, and i rarely load the bed with anything. Maybe a trip to the hardware store once a quarter and i load a motorcycle into the bed two or three times a year.
When I apply the brakes on and off while in park, I hear a "fluttering squeaking" noise. I examined the brake pads and calipers, and everything seems to be fine. I greased up all the brake hardware and no luck.
Also, I have a popping noise while making turns while I am not braking. I really doubt there is any connection with the brakes? I recently went testing in a parking lot, and while slightly turning from left to right I noticed the popping constantly. Keep in mind no brakes were applied.
Last year the dealer replaced the brake actuator and all arms were replaced. BTW, I am past my extended 100K warranty!!
I have a 2007 Avalon and really enjoy the car. The only fault I can find is the weird shifting. It seems like every time that I apply the brakes, the car will downshift immediately and the whole car will jerk left/right due to the sudden downshift. Sometimes it will shift back up and cause the car to jerk a little but will be smooth after. Some times I apply the brakes and it does nothing.
I also get the occasional hard shift but the bigger issue here is the downshift while braking. It kind of ruins the driving experience on an otherwise great car as one tends to use the brakes often. It's especially annoying while going down a hill and applying the brakes. I have watched the tachometer before and noticed it jumps up to 3k or so from a normal 1500 or so RPM's. It may not be downshifting per say, but it's definitely doing something.
I just installed new brake pads in my 2WD 2009 Santa Fe. I bought the cheapest AutoZone pads. Now I have a loud squeal sound when I apply the brakes. If I apply a hard brake the squeal goes away. Until I apply the brakes again. Now, after install...I have been researching and noticed that the stock pads are ceramic. I did apply (Not once but twice) break grease on the pads. What the problem might be? Oh yeah, I did see that after 2007, oiling the caliper springs is required and might be the problem too. But I do not know where the spring in question is and how to oil it.
View 4 RepliesI get this loud click noise coming from the front end of my vehicle when I apply the brakes. It seems to happen much more often than not, especially at low speeds. I can only describe it as some sort of loud clicky clanky sound, it's also a single sound, it doesn't go on and on and it only happens when I apply the brakes.
View 2 RepliesI was stopped at a red light and when it was time to go, I pressed the gas and instead of driving forward the car coasted backward. I went back and forth between the break and the gas two more times. Same result. The engine didn't rev. After a momentary panic I put on my hazard lights, put the car in park, turned the car completely off and then on again. When I put it back into drive it went forward like a good little car and I was able to turn onto a residential street and park.
What happened?
I have a 2009 Nissan Versa. This morning the ventilation/AC fan started making an awful noise, rather like a Piper Cub at takeoff. It also vibrated strongly, especially at the 3-4 settings. I checked under the hood but saw nothing suspicious, other than a bunch of sunflower seed hulls on top of the suspension bushing/gasket. The noise is coming from behind the dashboard.
View 5 RepliesBy accident i put E85 in my nissan versa. according to manual book my engine is not fitted for this kind of fuel- can i still drive to my mechanic and get the tank drained or do i need to tow the car or can i use up the gas.
View 19 RepliesFor a few months, when the AC is running for a little while, it would hum loudly. If I turned the AC off, after a few minutes, it would stop. When I turned it back on, a few minutes after running again, it would start that loud humming again. While driving down the freeway this evening, my AC stopped blowing. When the car is in idle and the AC is turned on, you can hear something trying to "run", but no air comes out. What this could be?
View 4 RepliesI've got a noticeable clicking that I can feel under my feet when I make a turn. It's not there all the time, seems to be worse on rainy days. My first thought was that it was the CV joint, but when I took it in today they put it on the lift and said that the boot is fine.
Could the joint still be bad if they can't see a problem with the boot? Should I take it somewhere else? It just seems pretty likely to be the CV joint, but I suppose it could be something else. I drive a 2007 Nissan Versa with about 48,000 miles.