Oldsmobile - Toronado :: Bucks And Chugs At 2K+ RPM Only After Car Warms Up
Nov 25, 2014
So, my car has had this issue for quite a while now. When I first start my car in the morning to head to work, all is great. It has full power, gets up and goes like a typical Buick 3800 engine does. Once the engine gets hot, though, I notice a significant loss of power. It chugs, bucks, and hesitates going up hills, accelerating, etc. Anything over 2000 RPM will make the car do this AND in any gear (so I know it isn't the tranny). If I stop the engine and then restart it, it acts as though it is going to stall (low RPMs, then recovers, then low RPMs again). After doing a little bit of research, I discovered that the O2 sensor is the likely culprit. So, I replaced it. Doing so has had no effect whatsoever on the issue. I really don't want to dive straight into replacing the ECM, but that is really the only thing I can think of as the next step. 1988 Oldsmobile Toronado Trofeo...
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I have a 2002 Oldsmobile Silhouette which has been a great car, but due to its age has had some issues in the past year. The most recent is that it does not start well. When I turn the key, it chugs but I have to push the gas to get it to start and then there is a very strong fuel smell. We had it "tuned up" recently, but that did not work ( in fact the starting has gotten worse).
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I have a 1997 88 with 79k. When the engine is warm and my foot is off the gas, the car occasionally dies. I can restart it each time this occurs.
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My 2001 Saab 9-3 (manual) won't start. It chugs and chugs and chugs but it won't catch. We've figured out that it isn't the fuel pump, but nobody can figure out why it won't start.
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So I have a 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 RWD named Beulah and she is quite the beast... She's got over 260,000 miles (given to me by my father after he used it as a work truck, so mostly highway mileage) and a few little kinks and issues. The one at hand today is some lugging/chugging of the engine usually after wet weather. I live near Lake Michigan and we just got dumped on by lake effect snow, but over this weekend it warmed up and we got quite a bit of rain. After this rain, I went to drive my truck and while it starts just fine and idles just fine, for about 10 or so minutes of initial driving, while at speeds anywhere from 0-30 miles an hour or so, Beulah seems to run a little rough. It almost sounds like she's lugging a bit or something's sticking in her engine. After about 10 minutes or so of driving it seems to fade away so my guess is its just some moisture getting into something and eventually evaporating from the heat of the engine. My questions are 1. Is this bad for my truck? 2. Is there a way to prevent this without spending a fortune?
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I had recently blew a head gasket on this car due to my radiator cracking and i have had it fixed and it does not over heat nor does it leak water. and i honestly without exaggeration have changed about every censor on that car besides the mass airflow but i am currently having a problem when i accelerate it kind of chugs but does not die. it does not do this when i just idle forward or when i have the gas pressed lets say on a scale from 1-10 it would only chug when I am at like a 1-2 at most then after that its great no problems.
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2003 astro - misses and chugs and clunks until i get up to 40 miles per hr...
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92 lebarron conv. 4 cyld. non turbo
New cap, rotor, and plugs
Misses on 3 and 4.
When pull plug wires engine doesn't change. When pull 1 or 2 it dies. When put in gear it chugs and dies.
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I drive a 1992 Nissan Primera wagon 2.0 slx, automatic transmission. Generally the car has been the picture of reliablility. Just lately it "chugs," especially evident when I'm at low speed of idling. This morning, as I idled for few minutes, the rpm's fluctuated between 1000 and 2000 rpms, as if I was depressing the accelerator.
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After driving 2 hrs on the highway, my 2008 Kia Rio chugs and spits out dark smoke. Last month, shortly after this happened, while exiting the highway, the car lost power completely. I was out of town when this happened. The mechanic couldn't find anything wrong. He did a transmission flush and replaced the crank sensor. It is running again, but the chugging persists after driving 2 hrs on the highway! I am scared of being stranded again. I also think the car is burning oil, as it often is low, and it's not leaking, as far as I can see.
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Check engine light comes on, car starts "chugging", recovers, chugs, recovers. So we limp to our destination. Check engine light goes off after car stands overnight. Repeat after driving car again. Mechanic replaced a 4" square "switch" somewhere "hot" last time. Said heat makes it go bad. Can't find anything 4" square under the hood. Mechanic says this part goes out all the time on this model and year.
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I have an 02 dodge stratus coupe with about 133,000 miles on it. Since January, when the outside temp is over 42 degrees, it starts rough, and the check engine light comes on. It then chugs and sputters and has diminished power until the engine temp reaches its normal spot on the gauge. But the check engine light stays on. If it is raining or damp, the problem is worse. It feels like it might stall, but never does.It doesn't sound like it is coming from the engine, but rather under the car, maybe the exhaust system. It is not so much a noise, as it feels as though I am driving over a light washboard dirt road. It's worse in the morning than when I come out from work.If the temp drops back under about 38 degrees, the problem and the light go away.I usually get about 28 mpg. In Jan and Feb I averaged 27mpg, but it has now dropped to about 22.I need to get my radiator flushed, as I do every winter, but don't know if this is related.
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I have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
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2005 6.0l - codes are P0261 Cylinder 1 injector circuit low. PO263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/balance and PO270 cylinder 4 circuit low. Ficm still reads 48 plus or minus .5. What is really puzzling is how changing the oil cooler and the EGR cooler would create these problems. Did I screw up the injector harness. Vehicle does not smoke either white or black. Low idle miss and at 55 it chugs once up to speed. Don't want to go Ford if I can avoid them. Whats going on.
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I bought this truck about 8 months ago, and replaced the EVAC system right off. Now, it's doing this thing where, when driving uphill, it chugs and makes a loud metal clunking sound. Also, as I slow, it tries to accelerate on its own (with my foot on the brake), and if I sit for too long at a stop (idling), it dies. Starts right up again, but it sucks having to start my truck on the freeway in slow/stopped conditions. Is it my fuel pump or my transmission?
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I am currently working on a 97 ranger with a 4cyl and 5 speed. its having some idle issues that i cant seem to pin point, you can start it and it will idle rough then when you rev it up it chugs real hard then dies. used my scan tool and all the sensors are good, fuel pressure is good, good compression, all 8 plugs are firing good and no codes. The other deal that has me a little confused is when I unhook the hose that runs from the air intake tube to the valve cover, I get a lot of vacuum at that port on the valve cover that the hose hooks to. Also when I plug it and pull the dipstick, I get vacuum at the dipstick tube. never seen this before but at the same time I've only messed with very few of these trucks so I don't know whats normal.
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I have a 1997 GMC Sierra extended cab with auto trans and 5.7 engine.When accelerating it bucks like it is underpowered. If I manually downshift to 3rd it runs fine. Once up to speed, I manually shift back to OD and it runs fine.
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My wifes 3V mountaineer has had a bad miss for a long time now. It seems fine until around 40-60 mph where it bucks and misses bad. I replaced all the plugs and it went away for a while but its back again. So far Ive replaced 3 of the coils with the accel coils but its just a shot in the dark really. Any easy way to check the coils or cylinder to see which one is truly the culprit?
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2006 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L DOHC - starts and idles fine. good power up to about 1800 rpm and then again above about 2100 rpm. Problem only exhibits under load (going up hill). Problem does not exhibit in low gears. No engine codes. Replaced TPS. Jumped out EGR to test it - still happened. I could be wrong, but I do not suspect fuel delivery or spark problems because the engine runs fine above 2100 rpm. So, basically I can start up a long hill and everything is fine until I get to about 40 mph (it's an automatic, but I think it's in third gear by now) then the car starts bucking (engine sputtering). But once I get through that, about 45 mph, it runs great - plenty of power, I can race it right up to 70 mph and beyond.
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My 2012 Santa Fe GLS 2.4L jerks and bucks while coasting. When you let go of the gas pedal the car would jerk. Is that normal for the car. The dealer could not duplicate the problem.
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I just had new R32 rear lower control arm bushing installed but I still notice that the car rocks and bucks somewhat when I shift. I can control it I shift and accelerate slowly and deliberately but where's the fun in that?
I didn't replace the front lower control arm bushings but I'm starting to think I should have. Or maybe something else needs replacing??
Experiencing this bucking when shift? Maybe I just suck at shifting?
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