Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Radiator Cracking - Car Chugs But Does Not Die On Accelerating
May 21, 2014
I had recently blew a head gasket on this car due to my radiator cracking and i have had it fixed and it does not over heat nor does it leak water. and i honestly without exaggeration have changed about every censor on that car besides the mass airflow but i am currently having a problem when i accelerate it kind of chugs but does not die. it does not do this when i just idle forward or when i have the gas pressed lets say on a scale from 1-10 it would only chug when I am at like a 1-2 at most then after that its great no problems.
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My wifes 2002 gls has a coolant leak from the top radiator hose. I put a new hose on and two new clamps on the leaking end and it still leaks!! I have never seen anything like this and I am not sure how to stop it.
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I bought my car last May and never noticed the radiator fans running, but over the past couple of months they've been coming on (or at least running at a higher speed) pretty much every time I take it for a longer drive. They appear to come on only when I'm idling and turn off when I start moving again. The temperature gauge is steady at just below halfway. I'm certain this didn't happen previously, or if it did the fans were at a low enough speed that I didn't hear them. In my inexperience I would have thought they'd be less likely to run in the winter, and we've been having continuously cold weather (<30 C).
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I have been encountering issues with my heater not providing hot air when the engine is idling. My Elantra has around 121K miles on it. I have not replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, radiator, radiator hoses, or done any coolant flushes.
I checked the overflow reservoir and radiator. I didn't see coolant at top of the radiator so I topped it off as well as the reservoir. It seemed to have fixed the issue for now but I had this similar issue about 5-6 months back. I also topped off the coolant and things have been fine until now.
I checked the hoses and squeezed them to see if I could see any notable leaks but didn't see anything. I checked the overflow reservoir tank and line and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I also checked the top of radiator to visually inspect for any notable cracks but didn't find anything. Also to note, the coolant inside the overflow bottle was bright green and not discolored.
I did however notice a lot of white chalky residue on the bypass hose below the upper radiator hose and the engine block. My guess is that my upper radiator hose is slowly leaking? Leaking in the thermostat assembly? And I also noticed a tiny puddle of coolant below the lower radiator hose at the engine block. See the pics below.
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My 06 Elantra with 115K miles on it broke down in the middle of the road on Thursday. The smoke was coming from under the hood. Towed it in to a Hyundai dealer, they looked at it on Friday and told me I needed a new radiator, the old one cracked at the upper seam line (whatever that means). I told them to go ahead with replacing a radiator, which they did. Today, Saturday morning, same problem, the car is blowing smoke from under the hood, spilling the coolant on the road. Towed it back to the dealer again. They say that the new radiator broke down, it cracked in the same spot as the last one and they're trying to figure out what's going on. Haven't heard from them again today and they're closed right now. I hope they will fix it on Monday. What might be causing this problem? Are there any other parts that might be causing the radiator to break like this? Is this a common problem for Elantra XD?
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I'll provide as much info as possible concerning an all too common problem with these cars. The radiator (passenger side) fan will run for a few seconds when the AC is turned on, then it will shut off. It does not come on when the car is up to temperature. The AC condenser (driver's side) fan runs normally. Steps I have taken so far are as follows:
A. Replaced the radiator fan -- no joy.
B. Replaced the coolant temperature sensor -- no joy.
C. Replaced the thermostat -- no joy.
Coolant level is normal and there are no leaks in the system. The temperature gauge however, never rises above cold.
My questions are:
1. What are the next step(s) to solving the radiator fan problem?
2. Is there a separate sensor for the temp gauge, other than the one in the thermostat housing and if so, where is it located?
3. Since I live in AZ where it never gets very cold, I'd be perfectly fine with having the radiator fan run whenever the engine is running. Is there a way to wire it so it's always on with the ignition?
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I have a high mileage 2002 SC430.
I have noticed that when I start the engine on a cold morning and start driving right away I hear a distinct "cracking" sound from behind the air vents (dash area) when accelerating. This only occurs when the engine is cold and when I am accelerating, this does not occur when the car is parked (I have not tried revving the engine when the car is parked, since it doesn't seem like a good idea).
A a side note, I do typically move the temperature setting to the max of 85 degrees on cold mornings, but the cracking sound often comes up 5-10 minutes after I change the temperature setting. I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it.
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I checked the coolant level on the reservoir and it was low.
I decided to add coolant by removing the radiator pressure cap, however, the coolant fluid is full under this cap.
So my question is where should I add coolant? through this cap or the reservoir?
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I have had a vibration when idling, I replaced the rear engine mount which fixed that, but I still have a slight clunk when I take off.
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My daughters 2005 Elantra has a nasty vibration when you accelerate. When you reach 45-50 and press the gas pedal you can feel the vibration in your feet. The steering wheel does not vibrate at all. Once you let off the gas it stops immediately. Based on this I'm leaning toward a motor mount or maybe all of them.
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My problem is gas cut on my Elantra 2001. Here is how it happened; Last week I filled up my tank with regular gasoline then added middle quality gas this time. I always use middle quality gas but once I made a mistake and filled with regular. Then my reliable elantra started stumble and cut gas few times in a day. What would be the problem?
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2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS ... I don't know what is going on with my car. When I start it, put it in gear and try to pull out, it feels like there is a loss of power. A few seconds later, the power returns . I can push my foot down, and the engine doesn't rev, but then it's like all of a sudden the engine realizes I have my foot down and takes off.
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I have a 2005 Elantra gt manual that I am having some trouble with. When I first get in the car to drive it after it has sat for any period of time it seems to catch the clutch higher before I start rolling, and once I start moving I get a fairly concerning clunk. I have had this issue for a while, and due to an unrelated issue I have recently swapped out the master and slave cylinder, and the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel all have less then 15k miles on them. After I start driving I do not get a clunk, even if stopped at a light and I have to shift to first and start moving again.
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Mine is 2006 with 130k miles. Just replaced fuel filter, air filter, cleaned air flow sensor and cleaned the injectors. The car still feels slow and it seems to eat more fuel than before. The spark plugs and the wires seems to be ok. No warning or error on dash is displayed.
When push the accelerator it takes a while to respond starting from stop position, and when the car is moving and try go faster it feels like lazy so I have remove the feet of the pedal and push it again so it respond quickly.
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I have a hyundia elantra gt 03 auto at 111k. When I am at a certain speed I hear a faint squealing sound on the passenger side. It only does it only when I am on the gas between 35-45 mph. it's very faint but you can hear it if the window is down or the music is off. Could it be a belt?
I had my timing belt replaced at 95k so I don't think it would be that. I also had my serpentine belt replaced about 3 times already but every few months it starts squealing again
For example: When I pull out of my driveway in the morning and turn my steering wheel i hear a LOUD squealing and it stops after a few seconds. it only happens in the mornings when the car has been sitting all night.
Also when I run over a puddle and turn the wheel it squeals very loud for a few seconds. It sounds like that when i accelerate but its not as loud and it is constant endless i let off the gas. It does not happen at any other MPH only between 35-45 ....
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I have an 01 hyundai accent. When I press the accelerator the car chugs and shakes and i have a hard time getting any power when accelerate. It takes too much time to get up speed. The power is not well transmitted to the tires.What could be the problem?
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My 2002 Hyundai elantra gls has had a problem with losing power when accelerating from a light. only after filling up gas and has done it only three times. I cleaned throttle body and noticed the mass air flow sensor is missing and wiring. I went to AutoZone and no check engine light for mass air flow sensor and that I have one for fuel pressure sensor in tank. I don't wanna throw money in to the mass air flow sensor if my problem is the fuel tank pressure sensor.
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Bought the wife's 2013 Elantra GL in March, it is North American built, and has only 4500 kms on it. Last week we noticed a couple cracks in the paint and it looks like the paint it wrinkling and therefore opening up at the crack. Both cracks are located in the exact same position on either side of the car, and the exact same. They are on the plastic bumper cover, where the bumper meets the quarter panel and tailight. Since the paint has migrated back, you can clearly see the black plastic underneath. Sent a text message to my service rep and he said it should be no problem to get it covered under warranty. Now, just need to make the time to get the car into the dealer...
Picture of the drivers side : PaintPeeeling_July-28-2013.jpg
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When Rolling Either Of The Front Windows Down For The First Time Of The Day, It Sounds Like The Window Glass Is "Sticking" To The Weatherstripping When Rolled Down. Hence The Cracking Sound, I Can Only Assume Something Is Loosening Up In The Door.
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So today/tomorrow I'm going to be buying oil pan #3 since january... how to keep the thing from cracking other than "drive better"... something mechanical I can have done? like a steel skid plate or something? 2001 passat 30v...
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Recently, my radiator fan stopped working. Its a 2013 Elantra GLS with 54K Miles on it. Summers are scorching in my region (hovering around 50 C so I take extra care anyway. Was surprised to find out one such scorching afternoon that the fan stopped working so even the A/C failed. Took it to the mechanic, who diagnosed and said the fan motor is spoil. I was hoping it was the temperature sensor.
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