So today/tomorrow I'm going to be buying oil pan #3 since january... how to keep the thing from cracking other than "drive better"... something mechanical I can have done? like a steel skid plate or something? 2001 passat 30v...
View 23 RepliesI've got a 2001.5 v6 passat w/ auto and my shift knob has this cool burl veneer on it. I think it's real wood but it's pretty thin and it's got cracks on the front and the back. I can't see any simple way to remove the stick so that I can try to glue it. How to do that. But it's a standard tiprtonic shifter ... probably the standard on that model.
View 3 RepliesI had recently blew a head gasket on this car due to my radiator cracking and i have had it fixed and it does not over heat nor does it leak water. and i honestly without exaggeration have changed about every censor on that car besides the mass airflow but i am currently having a problem when i accelerate it kind of chugs but does not die. it does not do this when i just idle forward or when i have the gas pressed lets say on a scale from 1-10 it would only chug when I am at like a 1-2 at most then after that its great no problems.
View 8 RepliesI've had my 2012 passat for one week and I love it but on two different occasions I've heard cracking noise coming from the top of the dash where it meets the windshield right after I started driving. It goes away after a few seconds and on both occasions it was hot outside.
View 10 RepliesI get a annoying cracking noise when I am driving and it is hot outside, have not noticed it in cooler weather, but as soon as the car has been sitting for hours in the heat and I start driving the dashboard seems to crack every few minutes. it seems like it happened on the corners where the tweeters are. I also get a crackiling sound when driving, sounds like rocks are hitting my window.
View 2 RepliesNoticed the shiny black door pillars forming hairline cracks? My 2012 is now over 3 years old and has 34k miles and is not garage kept. The pillars are starting to show cracks pretty bad in what looks like the clear coat. The drivers side is much worse, but I think that is due to that side getting more sun during the day while I'm at work. With that being said, I still don't think these should be cracking this soon.
View 14 RepliesI noticed that if I turn on the car and just drive with the AC on, depending on the outside temperature, the battery goes down to 2-3 bars from 6 bars within a mile a so. As it has been discussed in this forum extensively, the higher the battery charge swing, the lower the battery life. I noticed something yesterday, I warmed up the car till the engine stops with the AC on, and then the drive off. The battery stayed at 6 bars for all my commute and I believe this is healthy for the battery. Suggest/observe similar behavior or am I just burning gas for nothing. I have a scan gauge and definitely you get worse fuel economy for the first few miles if you warm up the car.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2011 non-nav non-JBL Prius, which I got used.
I first noticed this thing after installing an aftermarket head unit, and I could see that various connections behind the head unit plugged into it (including those going to the speaker), but I just left it be. I used a Metra wiring harness to hook up the head unit to the factory wiring. Since then, I installed aftermarket component speakers up front, an Axxess interface to get the steering wheel controls back, and recently an amplifier. I didn't, at that point in time, want to run new wire to all of the speakers, so I ran speaker wire from
I just purchased a 2010 Barcelona Red Prius II to replace my 2008 vehicle of the same color (which is going to our daughter). We have a terrific dog who, in my 2008 car, would often step onto the metal part of the car when getting onto or off from the backseat. This has left scratches in the paint, as it lies behind the area protected by the grey plastic in both cars (i.e., where it begins to slope upward). Is there anything that can be done to protect this?
View 7 RepliesSanta Fe 2003 petrol manual 2.4
I had a slipping clutch so decided to change it myself.
I replaced the Dual Mass Flywheel the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate.
Re assembled and the car started first time but the clutch would not disengage.
Pressed the clutch peddle down and it went to the floor until the fluid had filled then it went solid.
I pressed it down again and the clutch did not release so pressed harder and 'pop' the master clynder went - but the clutch would not disengage.
Taken the gearbox back off now and the release bearing is in sit it just would not disengage -
I replaced the MTX transmission, and while cleaning off the rotors of oil, I let the one side spin while in first gear. I put the wheels back on and started to back out of the driveway. It seemed as if I was rolling into something as it wanted to stop moving backwards. I then put the front of the car back on jackstands and tried to move through the gears. While in 1st or reverse, the car begins to engage and then acts as if it is grabbing gears and will stall. The car does not want to move. I then went outside with the car off and tried to spin the wheels in neutral. One wheel spins one way, the other spins another. I tried to put the car in reverse and it starts to move the tires, then catches on something and stalls. Then, the shifter is stuck in reverse and I have to work to get it out.
View 4 RepliesChanged the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
Replaced fuel filter. Got all 4 washers plus cap from old filter. Engine won't start. Saw there is a fifth rubber washer that nobody mentions anywhere and transferred that to the new pump. still won't run.
When I turn the key to On, I can hear the pump turn on for 2 secs and stop. if I do this 5-6 times and then try to start, engine will start and then die immediately. seems the pump is not pumping when the engine tries to run. it pumps only for two secs when the key goes from Off to On position.
There are two lines going to the pump. which one feeds the engine. if I disconnect that line, should I see fuel coming out when I turn the key and try to start the engine?? or is there a better place to disconnect closer to the engine??
Monday get CEL with codes p0722 and p0322. Car is in limp mode during these codes. Yesterday I change g68 sensor. Cleared codes, rough start but was sitting most of the week. Drove around fine, no limp mode, shifted fine. Started up a few times immediately after. Hours go by I go to leave and it won't turn over though it sounds its wants to. No clue why this is happening or what changing the sensor could have done. This is a 01 GLS 2.0 auto. Not sure where to from here especially since it drove so well afterwards.
View 4 RepliesI had to have 2 of my coils replaced a few weeks ago... since I got it back, the car is not as responsive as it used to be... I noticed it when i first got it back... it went away, and now it feels that way again. When I hit the gas (Floor it), its like it has to think about whether it wants to produce full power. Can even see the RPMs hesitate just a little.
View 12 RepliesI recently had my catalytic converter replaced with a non-OEM cat. The check engine light came on and a different shop (different from the shop that replaced the cat) said that it will keep coming on because I had the cat replaced with a non-OEM cat.
View 3 RepliesReplaced batteries in key fob but does not work.small red light comes on on fob so it is getting power. Maybe a reprogram problem or broken fob.
View 2 RepliesI successfully replaced the HV battery on my own and it was so easy even this girl to do it! I drove the car about 300 miles when I got the triangle of death warning light again yesterday. I took my 2002 Prius to the dealer to read the codes but how to borrow a scanner (or whatever) from Autozone and do it myself.
View 19 RepliesMy girlfriend has a jetta and I work at a DODGE dealership in service. I recently replaced the water pump and flushed the coolant twice and replaced the coolant with G13 coolant from the local VW dealership. After I finished burping the coolant system of air bubble. After I finished I took it for a spin and being the speed demon I am, I don't hold back on the throttle. I noticed immediately the engine lagging and being extremely sluggish. I ran my shops snap on code scanner on it and I came up with cylinder 1 fuel injector open circuit. Cylinder 6 fuel injector limited power. And last but not least o2 sensor 1 open circuit. If your facing the motor I undid the left motor mount from the frame, lifted the car on a hoist and took the bottom side motor mount off of the motor. I took the cv shaft off of the transmission and lowered the car and jacked the motor up by the oil pan to expose the water pump for removal and replacement. I'm wondering if possibly the o2 sensor could cause the ECU to seize power to two of the cylinders to ensure no engine damage or if its 3 separate problems.
View 3 Replies2002 2.7L. Engine seized. Bought a replacement also from a 2002. Tried to start today and no spark. I just replaced the physically broken crank position sensor. That seemed like it would be an obvious and easy fix, but still no spark. The broken sensor had frayed/shorted wires. Could that have damaged the PCM /ECU? There is a 2003 Santa Fe at U-Pull-It that was running when it came in. Will the PCM from that work? I am running out of time. I have to have this running before I leave on a flight tomorrow night. I do have a code reader (if I can find it) but I can't imaging it would have any codes if it hasn't started since I had the battery out. Not sure how that works.
View 4 RepliesWe bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.