Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2002 - Radiator Fan Will Run For A Few Seconds When AC Turned On Then Shut Off
Jun 18, 2016
I'll provide as much info as possible concerning an all too common problem with these cars. The radiator (passenger side) fan will run for a few seconds when the AC is turned on, then it will shut off. It does not come on when the car is up to temperature. The AC condenser (driver's side) fan runs normally. Steps I have taken so far are as follows:
A. Replaced the radiator fan -- no joy.
B. Replaced the coolant temperature sensor -- no joy.
C. Replaced the thermostat -- no joy.
Coolant level is normal and there are no leaks in the system. The temperature gauge however, never rises above cold.
My questions are:
1. What are the next step(s) to solving the radiator fan problem?
2. Is there a separate sensor for the temp gauge, other than the one in the thermostat housing and if so, where is it located?
3. Since I live in AZ where it never gets very cold, I'd be perfectly fine with having the radiator fan run whenever the engine is running. Is there a way to wire it so it's always on with the ignition?
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This just started last night. 2012 e ltd goes "pfft" 3 times after shut off. Sounds like 3 small back fires about 2 seconds after I shut off engine. Very soft sound. The third one is not quite as loud as the first two, and if the door isn't open, you can't hear it. Seems to be coming from under the engine cover, near the throttle body.
Let me add the mileage has dropped from about 26.9 in town to 23.6.
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My son's 2001 Dodge Neon tends to run hot. The radiator fan comes on while the engine is running, but does not stay on when the engine is turned off, even if the temp indicator is in the range where the fan should be on. Wiring diagram looks like the fan control relay only works when the ignition is in ON or RUN, which would indicate that this is the way the electrical system is designed, but that seems weird...I thought the fan is supposed to operate even if the engine is turned off. We have already replace the thermostat.
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My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
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i was driving the other day and the car just had a small sputter and shut off now when i turn it over it turns real fast like there is no compression if i press the gas pedal it sounds like it almost wants to start but wont and i can hear a small backfire through the air intake . I tried spraying starting fluid in the intake to see if maybe it were a fuel problem but it did no fire same result .
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I bought my car last May and never noticed the radiator fans running, but over the past couple of months they've been coming on (or at least running at a higher speed) pretty much every time I take it for a longer drive. They appear to come on only when I'm idling and turn off when I start moving again. The temperature gauge is steady at just below halfway. I'm certain this didn't happen previously, or if it did the fans were at a low enough speed that I didn't hear them. In my inexperience I would have thought they'd be less likely to run in the winter, and we've been having continuously cold weather (<30 C).
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I had recently blew a head gasket on this car due to my radiator cracking and i have had it fixed and it does not over heat nor does it leak water. and i honestly without exaggeration have changed about every censor on that car besides the mass airflow but i am currently having a problem when i accelerate it kind of chugs but does not die. it does not do this when i just idle forward or when i have the gas pressed lets say on a scale from 1-10 it would only chug when I am at like a 1-2 at most then after that its great no problems.
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My independent mechanic says my radiator fan and AC fan are cycling too much. The dealer says they are not. I know it started about 6 months ago and that I get 2 miles per gallon less now. If the heat, defrost selector is in any position it happens as long as the fan control in not on off.The fans run for 5 seconds and then are off for 20 seconds. The independent says the AC has refrigerant but doesn't know what is causing it. It happens at all outside temperatures. It happens at all car temperatures. (Just started, been driving for an hour etc.)
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I have been encountering issues with my heater not providing hot air when the engine is idling. My Elantra has around 121K miles on it. I have not replaced the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, radiator, radiator hoses, or done any coolant flushes.
I checked the overflow reservoir and radiator. I didn't see coolant at top of the radiator so I topped it off as well as the reservoir. It seemed to have fixed the issue for now but I had this similar issue about 5-6 months back. I also topped off the coolant and things have been fine until now.
I checked the hoses and squeezed them to see if I could see any notable leaks but didn't see anything. I checked the overflow reservoir tank and line and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I also checked the top of radiator to visually inspect for any notable cracks but didn't find anything. Also to note, the coolant inside the overflow bottle was bright green and not discolored.
I did however notice a lot of white chalky residue on the bypass hose below the upper radiator hose and the engine block. My guess is that my upper radiator hose is slowly leaking? Leaking in the thermostat assembly? And I also noticed a tiny puddle of coolant below the lower radiator hose at the engine block. See the pics below.
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My 06 Elantra with 115K miles on it broke down in the middle of the road on Thursday. The smoke was coming from under the hood. Towed it in to a Hyundai dealer, they looked at it on Friday and told me I needed a new radiator, the old one cracked at the upper seam line (whatever that means). I told them to go ahead with replacing a radiator, which they did. Today, Saturday morning, same problem, the car is blowing smoke from under the hood, spilling the coolant on the road. Towed it back to the dealer again. They say that the new radiator broke down, it cracked in the same spot as the last one and they're trying to figure out what's going on. Haven't heard from them again today and they're closed right now. I hope they will fix it on Monday. What might be causing this problem? Are there any other parts that might be causing the radiator to break like this? Is this a common problem for Elantra XD?
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I've developed a problem, usually when starting, that the truck will crank over, start and idle for a few seconds and then shut off. The few seconds it idles it doesn't get any throttle input. I'll crank it back over taking a little more than usual to get it started. When it does start it seems slightly sluggish but that quickly, like almost immediately goes away and the throttle is working again.
Oh, 2001, 7.3 stock w/200k
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2002 Elantra shut off while driving, interior lights dim when flashers are used...
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I checked the coolant level on the reservoir and it was low.
I decided to add coolant by removing the radiator pressure cap, however, the coolant fluid is full under this cap.
So my question is where should I add coolant? through this cap or the reservoir?
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01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
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You can check the video out to see what I'm talking about. The car had already been driven when I filmed this so no squeal when I first turn it on.
The power steering belt seem very tight, no wobbling, the alternator belt has more give but I can't tell whether it's too loose or not. The power steering fluid is dark, I don't know if that's normal or not and the reservoir has lots of dark-ish residue all over it. I'll have to look tomorrow during day light to see whether a hose may be leaking
Video is on youtube: [URL] ....
Just wondering what kind of fix the car needs, it's a clunker we drive on short distances but it's starting to squeal a lot , and the other day when one of us drove it it started to smell like burnt rubber, and there was even a bit of smoke coming out of the front hood, we haven't been able to replicate that so far. The oil is good, the oil cap is clean no gas smells.
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I've replaced the battery, ignition wires, and plugs. This will happen very erratically. Then all of a sudden it will fire up like nothing was wrong. This is always over a several minute time span of trying and retrying to start. I took it to a mechanic but we can never replicate the problem while there.
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