I have a 1997 no turbo Passat 2.0 6 cyl.Over the weekend one of the plastic pipes for the coolant system cracked and after the replacement I end up with the panel telling me that there is no coolant on the reservoir. How to bleed the air out of the system or if there is any bleeding valve for this purpose? And where is located?
View 1 Replies2003 F-150 Supercrew w/4.6 V-8, 2-wheel drive, 219,000 miles and very well maintained. I'm getting an intermittent overheat condition that I can't figure out. Coolant level is good and I just replaced the thermostat. My OBDII app showed it running at a constant 207 degrees (195 thermostat) after the thermostat. Appears to have good pressure at the cap. It ran great for 30 minutes at idle and then did fine for a five mile test drive.
The next day in the morning it overheated within 3 miles of the house (heat was on) and you could smell it. Pulled over and let it sit for 20 minutes and started back up and it stayed constant at 207 all the way to work (11 miles). It sat at work for about 7 hours and ran great all the way home (without heat, with heat, with air cond). Then this morning it did it again, overheating about 3 miles from home. This time I pulled over and shut it off for about three minutes. Turned the key on without starting and the temp was already dropping again. So I started it up and it continued to drop down so I drove to work with no more issues. This afternoon again went home and it never overheated.
I'm expecting it to overheat again in the morning. I'm gonna go live on the OBDII for temps during the drive tomorrow.
So CEL came on a few weeks ago as it does here and there so got it scanned today and it said "cooling system too lean" could it just be the mods throwing the light. car is tuned so i thought cel wasn't suppose to come on and no mods to the cooling system beside cold air intake..
View 6 RepliesMy MIL came on the other night so I brought it to the dealer today for diagnosis.
Per tech, "Found 1 DTC P2181 for cooling system malfunction, checked measuring values, found thermostat sticking open.
Recommendation is to replace thermostat with housing." I have 95K miles on the car, original owner...first time in a long time to have an issue.
The SA indicated the thermostat replacement. The tech indicated the thermostat is in the front of the engine which is hard to access.
Planning on doing a flush, but how do i bleed the air in the system after? is there a bleed bolt?
View 5 RepliesGot F-150 4.6 cooling system leak on the heater line (farthest back line) coming out of the block. Fitting looks to be steel. How does it attach/ do I need to remove the Intake to replace?
View 5 Replies I've recently started popping up a random P2181 performance malfunction in cooling system.
It's so random and shows no signs of any other problems that I'm confused. Temp gets hot, stays exactly where it should be, 200. Never gets a tick hotter, or even close to above 200. Air works, heat works fine. No loss of power. It only seems to come on when I really put my foot down.
The MIL came on and I scanned for codes. First was P0118, Engine Coolant Temp Circuit High Input. Reset it and then received P1296 -Cooling System Malfunction. Temp gauge needle is positioned where it always is.
View 15 RepliesHave an '07 2.0T w/92K on it. Check eng light came on over the weekend. Performance is fine etc. Went to AutoZone just to find the general area of the the trouble code since there's no one with a VAG Com nearby. The code is as the title indicates. For the last 5 months the temp gauge has been moving 1-2 ticks to the left (cooler) of the normal 200 degrees, then it will go back to 200 etc. It previously has always stayed on 200 once it warmed up. Does this sound like a thermostat?
If it is, I'm wondering if I could save some money while they were in there to go ahead and change the TB as well? From what I've researched the thermostat is in same area. I was planning on doing the TB at around 100-110k so while it would be earlier than planned I'd do it if it meant saving a bit from the combo work.
This code came up on my car, what it means or what part needs to be replaced.
008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 84971 km
[Code] .....
I am getting to check engine codes and I can't figure out what is causing them, one is P1296 cooling system malfunction, the other is P1654 Check DTC Memory of control panel ECU, any clues as to why I'm getting these, I did have a bad thermostat i changed that and it's still on, I also used the new prestone antifreeze for all makes and models, cause I am about 200 miles away from a dealership for g12.
View 6 RepliesTwo weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
View 13 RepliesIs it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
View 1 RepliesMy dealers charges $60 for this. Sounds like all they do is drain the radiator and refill with new anti-freeze. I recall when it used to mean drain the radiator, refill with clean water, run the engine, flush, and then refill with new anti-freeze. If all they do is drain the radiator and refill, I guess I can buy the anti-freeze and do it myself and save about $45. Or is there more to it than the service manager described?
View 7 RepliesMy 2009 has been showing the CEL off and on for a few weeks. Have had it read at auto zone twice, two different codes. Both cooling system related, but not the same. Today I filled the gas tank and it went back off.
Is it possible for the cap to be causing the light, or would the scanners tell that in a code? I just hate to take it to the mechanic when it is running fine and the light is not even staying on.
Ok, a year or two ago, a small leak in our 04 GX470 prompted me to have an a/c guy recharge system (little did I know how easy it was to do). At the time, he used his blacklight (during the day) and "thought" the condenser might have a leak in it.
Fastforward to now, the system stopped cooling. There isn't any noise from the compressor and the clutch does seem to engage normally.
I went to Autozone and rented the DVD on A/C systems. Using the gauges, I found there was no pressure on the H or L sides. I replaced the condensor (a no brainer ... it even came filled with desiccant/drier though I had to return it since the condenser didn't have the plugs in place so the desiccant/drier would have likely been 'wet' already ... no problem). I noted a very slight grainy, metallic in the system, but not very significant ... I did not flush any hoses, but I did look at all visible hoses for dye stains.
I connected a vacuum pump and kept it a 30mm Hg vacuum for 30 min and rechecked it 30 min later to see that it held the vacuum. The first time, it didn't, so I rechecked my connections and repeated. It seemed to work. I charged the system with 24 oz (27-29 is capacity so I wasn't quite full) and the system was nice and cold.
Unfortunately, cool only lasted 3-1/2 days!
The original condenser plug (for the desiccant reservoir) was plastic or teflon, but the one that came with my replacement was Aluminum. A replacement desiccant bag also came with another plug (a plastic or teflon one), but it seemed to strip so I opted for the metal one anyway (besides, it had two green 'O' rings to just one 'O' ring for the plastic one.
Two days ago, I thought I'd got it to hold the vacuum in the system, recharged it again (I dried the desiccant bag in the oven for 5 hours at 175 deg F to make sure I'd gotten rid of any moisture that had developed).
Dog gone it, it's hot again! Looking at it with my black light at night, I do see dye (I'm using the yellow kind) at the L-side Schrader valve and on the plug to the desiccant compartment, but no where else. Where's the drip line for the condensate so I can check to see if there's a leak in the evaporator?
I tried wrapping some teflon tape around the metal plug for the desiccant/drier, but it still wouldn't hold a vacuum when I tried using the pump tonight.
I have another dessicant/drier bag and plug arriving tomorrow since I'm afraid that it still could just be leaking out the base of the condenser, but I'm not sure.
This morning (cold outside) I started my 2011 Golf TDI and the cooling system light started flashing.
The owners manual says to contact my dealer if this happens. I originally thought that it was because the coolant was low, but the manual states that if the coolant is low, the light will be solid.
I scanned the car with my VAG-COM and there were no related faults found.Perhaps my owners manual is wrong and it really is because the coolant was low? (that's how my mk3 was).
I have a 2001 530i BMW experiencing an overheating problem. I replaced hoses, radiator, thermostat, water pump, alternator, both belts all of which went fine. However still loosing anti-freeze, it seems to be coming from under the intake manifold. Looking for step by step instructions on removing it to get to the problem?
View 5 RepliesI heard that you could place a flat screwdriver between the upper radiator hose and the end of radiator. Is this procedure really work?
View 10 RepliesSo i got a cooling system performance light and haven't had time to change the sensor out along with the housing... But
Last night i was stopped to see if it was still there after a little driving and it was indeed. So i figured i would try and clear the code to see if that work and it did. I cleared the code and almost instantly with the car still idling, the ticking sound went away.
What could have cause the ticking sounds at all in relation to the cooling system?
i have a 1999 ford windstar 3.8 and get hardly any cold air using the air condtioner, i.m assuming the trap door is not operating by either closing or not closing the heater core therefore blending hot air through the vents.In other words the temp control is faulty. now for a quick fix to stop the heater core from getting hot water is a shut-off valve in line to the heater hose a quick fix for now so the air conditioner will at cool somewhat better?.
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