I have an 01, early model, AWD Passat wagon, v6, GLX and when I accelerate from a standstill or a slower speed, the car hesitates slightly and coughs(?) and then catches on and accelerate. It doesn't actually backfire or misfire.
View 2 Replies2001 elantra 167000 miles, started a hesitation when given gas and check engine light came on. After hesitation rpms go up it runs good. Code is # 2 cylinder misfire. I have changed plugs, ignition coil and ran seaform into vacuum line and tank. Still no change. Could that 1 injector be clogged.
View 2 RepliesIt'll do okay when I am not flooring it, but when I do floor it there's a pretty noticeable lag and then VROM it'll take off like a bullet... This car has a manually operated throttle control, are there any adjustments I can make to make the truck more responsive? 2.4L 4Cyl....
View 3 RepliesMy 01 alero 2.4l has some hesitation at takeoff, i have changed the plugs, boots, and fuel filter, and used fuel system cleaner. What could be causing this?
View 1 RepliesLast night i noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration. Today i had driven around in town for awhile and did not notice any hesitation. When i got onto the interstate I pushed down the peddle to pass someone and it did nothing, I let off the gas and back on and the car bucked pretty bad. All the way home it has issues when I pressed on the gas but did fine at cruising speed. I would think a fuel filter would have been a slow progression issue so I am thinking maybe it is a sensor. I sprayed carb cleaner around vacuum hoses today and did not notice any surge so I think I eliminated a vacuum issue.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7 149k
My 2001 VW Passat 1.8T manual transmission is experiencing loss of power/hesitation during acceleration. Occasionally the check engine light will blink for about 10 seconds during this time. My valve cover gasket blew about 7 months ago. I had it replaced along with 2 ignition coils. Since then I have had replaced the other 2 coils and spark plugs because of this recurring problem. I have also replace the mass airflow sensor for the second time. The diagnostic check continually shows misfires in different cylinders for which I again tried replacing the coils. I have also received the codes for "fuel mixture too lean" as well as for too rich. What could be causing this?
View 4 RepliesMy 2001.5 1.8T wagon w/ tip (stock engine, no mods) has always had an amazingly long "dead time" when I gas it hard from a standing stop. It's less noticeable when I'm in manual mode, but is downright scary in automatic mode in that I wonder if the car is ever gonna take off. When it does take off, it accelerates just fine and goes through the gears without a problem.
If I'm in automatic mode, no significant hesitation occurs if I first give it a little gas just to get going. The situation arises only when starting from a dead stop. I've read elsewhere (not here) that this model does hesitate on initial acceleration, but it seems more pronounced than in other b5's I've had as dealer loaners. Any way to cut down on or eliminate this?
My 2003 Elantra has multi spark (quad) electrodes? I have a hesitation on acceleration problem. Also feel resistance when pressing the gas pedal. I am going to change the plugs and wires. Just wondering if the type of plugs may contribute to the problem.
View 9 RepliesWhen I press on gas the engine hesitates as if it's going to stall and the acceleration takes effect only after 2 seconds or around there! The check engine light is also on.
View 13 RepliesLoving our new SF, but have noticed a problem periodically when starting out from a dead stop. When the accelerator is pushed, sometimes there is a hesitation in the engine. Almost feels like the gas has been restricted for a second, then it engages and goes. I've notified the dealer and plan to have them look into it at my first oil change, but it is happening more frequently and think it may be something I need to get looked at sooner than later.
View 61 RepliesThe engine idles beautifully. However, the engine hesitates upon acceleration. Once the engine reaches approximately 2000 rpms the engine smooths out and runs well. This is even more noticeable when the AC is running.
View 5 RepliesSituation 01 Jetta AEG 2.0L codes catalyst below threshold and random misfires.
•found exhaust clogged due up catalyst. It was actually making contact with the rear O2
-replaced cat as an assembly and reset codes with Ross-tech
• start up, idles perfect no hesitation smooth. Road tested it and upon entering freeway ramp at it started stuttering/misfiring
• CEL flashed for cylinder 3 & 4. Inspected wires found #3 lost continuity, installed new wires.
•road tested and same result but only 4 came back. Swap plug with #2 and retested.
• #3 and 4 misfire came back again
- shooting in the dark to identify which way to go with it I tested:
•compression was solid 140
•fuel pressure 35 psi at idle and 45 when snapping the throttle.
-Suspicious spec is 55-72psi
•squeezed the return line to inspect if the Fuel pressure regulator valve possibly leaking excess.
Psi never went higher than 45 at idle and throttle snap to wot
•graphed the tps signal smooth with out drops or glitches up to values of 84 according to toss tech scan tool
•looking at measiring blocks one item that was odd is engine load at idle 99.5%
-swapped parts with known good parts with a good running 2002 Jetta aeg motor.
•MAF -no change
•ignition control module/ coil pack no change
-today ill be checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump and inspect if the fuel filter possibly clogged.
I just purchased an l/certified 2013 RX 350 (34K miles) this past weekend. I did not notice these issues on my test drive. I've started to notice that when taking my foot off the gas pedal (while not resting near the break pedal) the vehicle goes through a series of easy coasts and then some resistance (as if using an engine as break on a truck with a manual t,) then returning to a smooth easy coast.
I've also noticed that when accelerating at a slow speed from stop (I'm in traffic) there is a bit of a hesitation, like turbo lag, yet this has no turbo. The lag seems to be there even if I want to accelerate aggressively.
I hate to get tied up with a dealer service department already.... "Cant duplicate," or "that is normal operation," or "Computer codes check out." Looking for reinforcing information so I don't have to take it in once a month for an unknown amount of time.
Of our three other cars (2015 Prius, 2002 Nissan Altima, and (pre-tran fail) 2002 honda odyssey) none experience anything like this.
Our household is dumping a 2002 honda odyssey for repeated transmission failures never covered with goodwill. All service was at a h dealership and manufacturer schedule was followed. I'm already sensitive to the manufacturer/dealer relationship.
I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
View 11 RepliesI own a Celica '00 and have been driving it for 8 years. In the last year I've noticed that my CEL started coming on. Did some scans and got P0171 error code from Autozone. The Celica was running lean and took some time to accelerate but run fine for a while. It got worse soon and I took it to a mechanic. He diagnosed a bad Cat Converter and he replaced it with an universal one. He also replaced the first Oxygen sensor, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump and the Mass Air Flow sensor. Car's CEL came back one after 10 miles of driving. At that time I put in a 4" silencer for my muffler. The silencer had a 2.5" opening and worked well to lower the muffler noise.
The CEL was still on and I disconnected the negative on the battery to see if I can reset it. Well, once I connected it back and tried to turn on my Car all hell broke loose. The engine now has extreme sputters, shakes and hesitates to accelerate above 5-10mph. I barely drove it back to the mechanic. He still is not sure what the problem is, he thinks replacing the other sensors and troubleshooting the coils should be the next step. I'm wondering if my silencer could have caused any damage? Also, I'm wondering if there is valve damage inside the cylinder? The code we're getting now is Cylinder 4 misfire. What about the Fuel filter? I don't think it has been changed at all. The car is at 122,000 miles right now.
My car is misfiring, as in acceleration 90% sputters until I lay the pedal to the ground, which obviously isn't good for my gas. What do I do? I can't find anything online and I don't want to be throwing money into things that don't work.
View 4 RepliesLately I have been having some trouble with 2002 Oldsmobile Alero v6. When the car is sitting in park I have noticed that the engine idles roughly, And when I try to drive it, the car hesitates on the acceleration every now and then. Also the emissions light (the orange one) will come on for awhile and then dissapear. At first I though it was dirty fuel injectors so I added some Fuel injector cleaner, but that has not fixed the problem. I was thinking the park plugs may need replacing?
View 1 RepliesI posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
Motor started to misfire while out on grocery run. scanner said mifire on #1 so I bought a coil and plug. car ran well for a day then same thing on # 2.. repeat.. then # 3 repeat so did #4.
Now it did it again on #3. I switched the coil #2 and #3 to see if scanner would show if it followed the new #3 coil but so far no code. The misfire is on light acceleration, push down hard and it does not miss. Today I will try some fuel injector cleaner.. Is this the trail I should be following ?
So woke up this morning take kid to school, got about 1-2 miles from home and engine light came on and had to switch to tiptronic because seemed the engine was struggling to move the car and downshift and was able to drive somewhat fine. but at stop signs the car idle and shook slightly then taking off was a bear because it lacked power. I did notice my mpg was reading bout 10-15mpg less then normally.
I going back to bed because I work graveyard and will look at it more when I get up. but the oil looked good and wasn't any engine burning smell. the only odor i think i could smell was almost like coolant. What could be causing this?
My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
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