When I press on gas the engine hesitates as if it's going to stall and the acceleration takes effect only after 2 seconds or around there! The check engine light is also on.
View 13 RepliesMy "pride and joy", is sitting at the dealership. The car has been hesitating on acceleration, occasional it would also stall. According, to the dealership a faulty gas tank is the culprit. The tank has been ordered. Hopefully, i"ll have the car back in two weeks. What parts were replaced, to fix the problem??
View 24 Replies2001 F150 V8 4.6 Liter... I've been experiencing hesitation when first pressing the gas, stall at idle, RPM fluctuating between 1000 and 500 at idle and loss of acceleration. Had the truck read at autopart store and received a P0402 error and misfire is cylinder 8.
At this point, I've changed the the plug, COP, EGR valve, EGR Valve Solenoid and DPFE sensor and still have the exact same symptoms. I've also changed the plug for cylinders 5,6 & 7 as well. The check engine light is on, went off briefly after changing DPFE sensor, but back within a day.
Given the fact the error code is P0402 and some of the threads I've read, I thought the issue was centered around the EGR system, but I've replaced many of the components.
Having problems with start up? It feels like the engine wants to stall when I start it and as if the flywheel is so heavy. It also like jerks the car. You can clearly tell it isn't a smooth start up. Maybe the starter?
View 10 RepliesI purchased my 2013 SF 2.0 Turbo SE in August 2013. Up until then, I was a long time Toyota owner. I've very satisfied with the SF, except I've been having an intermittent issue since I bought the vehicle.
Maybe 3-4 times a month, out of the blue, when I making a left hand turn, there is a hesitation when I press the accelerator. The hesitation lasts for about a second or so, but when there's traffic coming at you while you're making the left turn, it can be quite scary and the second feels like forever!
The hesitation feels like there is absolutely no power and the engine will stall. It never does. I've had it back to the dealer/garage for diagnostics several times but they can't seem to find anything wrong. And they keep charging me for the diagnostics! This occurs in ECO mode and non-ECO mode.
I have a 2001 Honda Odyssey with 140,000 miles. In the past year we've had major repairs to the car including rebuilding the transmission, fixing things on the steering column, replacing the catalytic converter, waterpump and timing belt, and a complete brake job. We thought we would be good to go for another 3 years on this van. But it continues to have this sporadic problem a few times a week: I will put the car into drive and press the accelerator, but the engine doesn't seem to get any fuel and it feels like the car may die or stall. If I keep my foot on the accelerator, the car will kick in and go after a few seconds.
A couple of times, I pushed down a little bit harder on the accelerator, but it sort of surged or jumped a bit and then got going just fine. My mechanic says this problem has to happen while he's driving it and has it hooked up to a machine or something in order to diagnose it and he is going to charge me more diagnostic fees to hunt for the problem. He says it could be many things. Is there something simple I can check myself in order to fix this before paying more fees? Would a different type of gas, or additives or a simple change of spark plugs be the first thing to try? We're tired of putting money into this van, but we feel we are invested in it now, and want to hang in there.
Loving our new SF, but have noticed a problem periodically when starting out from a dead stop. When the accelerator is pushed, sometimes there is a hesitation in the engine. Almost feels like the gas has been restricted for a second, then it engages and goes. I've notified the dealer and plan to have them look into it at my first oil change, but it is happening more frequently and think it may be something I need to get looked at sooner than later.
View 61 RepliesI have an 01, early model, AWD Passat wagon, v6, GLX and when I accelerate from a standstill or a slower speed, the car hesitates slightly and coughs(?) and then catches on and accelerate. It doesn't actually backfire or misfire.
View 2 RepliesThe engine idles beautifully. However, the engine hesitates upon acceleration. Once the engine reaches approximately 2000 rpms the engine smooths out and runs well. This is even more noticeable when the AC is running.
View 5 RepliesI just purchased an l/certified 2013 RX 350 (34K miles) this past weekend. I did not notice these issues on my test drive. I've started to notice that when taking my foot off the gas pedal (while not resting near the break pedal) the vehicle goes through a series of easy coasts and then some resistance (as if using an engine as break on a truck with a manual t,) then returning to a smooth easy coast.
I've also noticed that when accelerating at a slow speed from stop (I'm in traffic) there is a bit of a hesitation, like turbo lag, yet this has no turbo. The lag seems to be there even if I want to accelerate aggressively.
I hate to get tied up with a dealer service department already.... "Cant duplicate," or "that is normal operation," or "Computer codes check out." Looking for reinforcing information so I don't have to take it in once a month for an unknown amount of time.
Of our three other cars (2015 Prius, 2002 Nissan Altima, and (pre-tran fail) 2002 honda odyssey) none experience anything like this.
Our household is dumping a 2002 honda odyssey for repeated transmission failures never covered with goodwill. All service was at a h dealership and manufacturer schedule was followed. I'm already sensitive to the manufacturer/dealer relationship.
I bought a pre-owned 2015 Sonata Limited in November. I only had less than two weeks before the car hesitated upon acceleration and the check engine light came on. At the time, I thought it was a loose gas cap as I'd just gassed up. I took it to the dealership, they pulled the code and it said to replace the accelerator pedal. That required a second trip to the dealership 2 weeks later when they completed the work. Two weeks later and the light came back on. I took it back and asked them to keep it until they found and fixed the root cause while I took a loaner. They kept the car about 2 weeks and when I picked it up, I found that no work had been completed. Two days (!!) later the light came back on.
View 11 RepliesI own a Celica '00 and have been driving it for 8 years. In the last year I've noticed that my CEL started coming on. Did some scans and got P0171 error code from Autozone. The Celica was running lean and took some time to accelerate but run fine for a while. It got worse soon and I took it to a mechanic. He diagnosed a bad Cat Converter and he replaced it with an universal one. He also replaced the first Oxygen sensor, Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump and the Mass Air Flow sensor. Car's CEL came back one after 10 miles of driving. At that time I put in a 4" silencer for my muffler. The silencer had a 2.5" opening and worked well to lower the muffler noise.
The CEL was still on and I disconnected the negative on the battery to see if I can reset it. Well, once I connected it back and tried to turn on my Car all hell broke loose. The engine now has extreme sputters, shakes and hesitates to accelerate above 5-10mph. I barely drove it back to the mechanic. He still is not sure what the problem is, he thinks replacing the other sensors and troubleshooting the coils should be the next step. I'm wondering if my silencer could have caused any damage? Also, I'm wondering if there is valve damage inside the cylinder? The code we're getting now is Cylinder 4 misfire. What about the Fuel filter? I don't think it has been changed at all. The car is at 122,000 miles right now.
Lately I have been having some trouble with 2002 Oldsmobile Alero v6. When the car is sitting in park I have noticed that the engine idles roughly, And when I try to drive it, the car hesitates on the acceleration every now and then. Also the emissions light (the orange one) will come on for awhile and then dissapear. At first I though it was dirty fuel injectors so I added some Fuel injector cleaner, but that has not fixed the problem. I was thinking the park plugs may need replacing?
View 1 RepliesI posted a while back about my 04 5.4 having an issue at idle. I did all the normal things like replace coil, spark plug, etc etc. No change to the issue. It still acts as though it's misfiring on a cylinder and I get codes P0306 and P0316. Finally took it to ford and had a diagnostic check ran. Everything on the top end was in working order. The tech even put a known working coil on 6 and nothing changed. I was told that it's either an intake or valve issue on that cylinder. But no definite answer to problem.
Fast forward to yesterday. I got a wild hair at lunch and went out and started truck. Pulled injector plug off of 6. No change to the way it was running. I did the same for 5, 7, 8, 1, and 2. All of which made a big difference in the way it ran. It was obviously misfiring with no fuel to cylinder. This gave me the idea to swap 5 and 6 when I got home to see if the issue followed the injector from 6. I did NOT. I pulled the plug on 5 and got the obvious change in the way it ran. So there is definitely something going on at cylinder 6 that I cannot figure out.
PCM, bad intake, bad valve? I'm not rich so a trip to ford for repair is gonna have to wait. Truck seems to run fine when driving except for slight hesitation during acceleration.
Just bought a XLE (currently have had the car for 2 weeks and a total of 275miles) and am experiencing a very strange rattle coming from the engine compartment when accelerating very lightly and engine being fully warm (being ran for atleast 15min). The rattle is coming during 2000-2300rpm. Below and above that range, the problem does not occur. The rattling noise sounds as if some metal is grinding on one another. I understand that the Dual VVT-i is notoriously known for it's noise (ticking/tapping of valves, naturally being a 4cyl, and a small amount of "roar" when applying large amount of throttle) but I think this problem I am exhibiting is by far, not normal.
Symptoms/Conditions:
1. Car must be hot/warm (must be driven for atleast 15 minutes)
2. Must be in a drive or reverse direction. Problem does not occur in park or neutral.
3. You have to be acclerating lightly, the engine rattle occurs from 2000rpm - 2300rpm. It's not a tapping or ticking sound but rather a "buzzing" metal to metal grinding.
4. Sounds like the sound is coming from the intake or exhaust systems and the rpm's is causing a natural vibration frequency that is causing a metal part to vibrate (or resonate). Could explain
5. The car doesn't seem to be power limited or anything abnormal. Drives just fine - just a rattling sound that I hate to believe is normal!
I'm under assumption that this is an engineering design flaw! I would encourage you as Toyota Corolla 2009 owners (1.8L, 4spd autos, manuals) to see if you can replicate this issue. Warm your car up, turn off heat/ac & radio (so you can clearly hear the engine), put it in drive, slowly excelerate, and listen as your rpm's increase (noise will only occur at 2000-2300rpm).
My 2001 Corolla w/80k developing a considerably loud spark knock/engine pinging noise under acceleration. It throws no codes but pings like crazy and it never used to. It's happened gradual over a long period of time. I've cleaned the throttle body and have done all regular tune up items with no improvement. It doesn't ping at all on 93 octane, does some on 89 and terribly so on 87. Why is this? Does the 93 octane just act a a richer mixture of fuel to alleviate the ping? Should this sign point me in the direction that it's definately a lean issue causing the pinging?
View 13 RepliesI own a 1996 Toyota Corolla Manuel Transmission. Im currently experiencing an i idling issue. When i first start the car everything is pretty much ok. Until it finally heats up and reaches normal temperature. After that it boggs really low almost wanting to stall out. When I'm driving i have no issues it drives smoothly and shifts fine. This is a list of everything i have done so far:
Vacuum line cleaning
Throttle body and EGR valve cleaning as well as checked for cracks (After I cleaned this it seemed to work a little)
Tune up (wires, plugs, cap, rotor,)Changed the fuel filter
Ran lucas fuel injector cleaner
Cleaned the IAC
Not really sure what else to do.
I've recently noticed that when I accelerate really hard on my vehicle it will completely stall out at 40mph. Once I let off the gas and begin accelerating again all is good. However the car will not enable me to just step on when without stalling out.
View 10 RepliesIt'll do okay when I am not flooring it, but when I do floor it there's a pretty noticeable lag and then VROM it'll take off like a bullet... This car has a manually operated throttle control, are there any adjustments I can make to make the truck more responsive? 2.4L 4Cyl....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry xle v4. It has a hesitation at low acceleration. I've replaced EVERYTHING: Mass Flow Sensor, 2 O2 sensors, plugs, etc. This past weekend I changed the plugs again with a better quality than before and the hesitation went away....for 2 days! Now its back.
View 5 Replies04 Touareg V6 ... Slow acceleration.. running rough.. hesitation during acceleration especially when going up hill. Engine light is on. P0300 is the computer code coming up.
View 4 Replies