Passat (B5) :: 2002 - Throttle Body And Intermediate Drain On Battery
May 22, 2012
I have a 02 1.8t passat that if I don't start it for two days the battery will be totally dead. I have taken it to two places and they cant find what the draw is. The only thing that i could think of is my horn that sometimes when I am in the car it goes of randomly and my right side mirror that sometimes runs on. And my other problem is that when I drive it and I get to 3500rpm the throttle body shots of and I loose all my boost. I got a new turbo installed trying to fix the problem but still keeps happening. The only thing I could think of is that i have a stage 1 revo flash and when I took the old turbo out it may have erased the memory of the flash.
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2002 Camry XLE.
I cleaned my throttle body today. Since the throttle plate moves by a motor, in order to keep it open, I turned the key to ON and held the gas pedal down by using some weight.
After I put everything back, the idle was high 2000+, then stays at 1300 to 1400 range. I drove about 10 miles and it is still the same. When stopped at a light in drive, the idle is still 1000
Did I mess up the e-throttle or the throttle position sensor? (Since I used a weight to hold the gas pedal down, I am worried now).
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I recently cleaned the throttle body and now it surges up and down. Not really sure what to check next. 2002 toyota camry 4 cyl.
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2002 mercury grand marquis high vibrating air pressure is in the throttle body it become louder with the more gas you give the car.The vibration is the worst in the idle speed control.The vibration extend all the way down to the air filter.The air filter is not stopped up.The noise use to come and go and the car would cut off at a idle.
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Took my car in to get the tire and headlight replaced. Not my usual mechanic. While they were in there, they took it upon themselves to open up the filter and root around the throttle body. They said it was heavily gunked up, and asked to clean it. The car has been having serious starting issues, so this made sense to me, so I overlooked them examining a part of the car that had nothing to do with what I'd asked them to repair, and told them to go ahead.
Mechanic cleaned out the throttle body. Now he says there are scratches in it, he suspects from a mouse or rodent. Says it needs to be replaced, but he couldn't source a part today. Either way, I can't afford that. Says it's fine to drive, though.
Whatever they did, the car is now worse. Engine revs up high in park or when I start the car, and then drops dow and keeps revving rhythmically while idle. And I swear that while in drive, it's running faster even with my foot off the gas, and not dropping out of higher gears as fast. I go back and confront the mechanic. He says yes, that's all because of those scratches. But I don't understand how before, when it still had these scratches, WASN'T clean, when it was, in his words, all gunked up, it was working BETTER than it is now, when it's clean and just has those scratches?
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Just took off the throttle body of my 2002 GT to clean it. Had all of the sensors off (IAC, MAF, TPS). Put everything back together and it fired right up but immediately went to 3000 rpm and acted like it would keep climbing.
Thought I was very careful putting everything back together. Obviously the throttle is open but there is no play in the throttle cables. Could it be a sensor?
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I have a 1999 B5 Passat GLS V6. It's been running well, though I had to replace the CCM last winter due to water intrusion. Recently, the battery needed replacing, and I swapped it out, then the car wouldn't restart normally. I can get it to start by holding a bit of throttle, but it still runs rough and won't idle. The Check Engine Light is on, and my OBDII reader gives me the P1545 code. The car will run in 'limp mode', but it maxes at about 15mph, and I need to keep a little throttle on constantly to keep it from stalling. I think I could make it the mile or two to the local VW dealer, but maybe late at night, with no traffic - it's certainly not driving normally, or even just 'poorly'.
A bit of Googling says that I need to do the Throttle Body Adaptation by opening the hood (and maybe the driver's door, turning the key to the 'run' position without starting the car, and then waiting for the whining noise that indicates the throttle servos are running through their range, and then I'll be fine. However, this procedure has not worked. Am I doing it wrong? Or does it not work with this make/model/year?
I walk up to the car, unlock it, pull the hood lever in the footwell, go open the hood fully, then sit in the driver's seat, leave the driver's door open a bit, and turn the key to 'run', without going all the way to 'start'. I've tried this procedure after clearing the code with my OBD reader, with and without cycling the key to off, and various other ways. If I can't make this work, then it's off to the VAG-COM list, and see if there's someone in North Seattle who can assist. I can also take it to the dealer, but I'm not thrilled about trying to drive it even that far.
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2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
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I'm an Mk3 guy but I've gotten the hang of these beasts when I started to fix my brother's '99 B5 AEB. I got a VCDS scan from a friend and got this.
5 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-00 - -
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16507 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too High
P0123 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 0101
I'm thinking either the throttle body is toast or maybe the ECU.
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I have got a 5 door 2002 Golf 1.6l petrol, manual transmission with 190k kilometers on the clock. It has been playing up recently and the authorized VW garage is clueless, but still happy to charge for a miserable job...
The "symptoms" are always the same: I can start the car no problem. Plenty of water coming out of the exhaust and EPC light comes on, no power transmission (or very little). In this state, the engine runs irregular. Before all this happens, you can tell there will be a problem (this is not super obvious), as the car does not run smoothly in neutral, especially when it is at a a hill You might get away with another 50k but that's it.
Breakdown 1: Called out road side assistance and got it towed. Volkswagen dealer retrieved the error code P1564 and they replaced the throttle and some of the contacts of the throttle. (Costs 800 GBP)
Breakdown 2: However, 300 km later, same problem as before road side assistance retrieved error code P0638. The memory was reset and it did run perfectly fine for a short while (2000 km).
Breakdown 3: As before, error message P1564 was read. This time they thought there was a problem with the coil in cylinder 2 and replaced it (250 GBP) - also the one in cylinder 1 as "old". Picked up the car and it was not running smoothly in neutral and it eventually broke down after only 90 km.
What to get changed next? What is the real root of the problem here?
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I'm trying to remove the throttle body on my 2002 Echo. However, the transmission dipstick tube is in the way of one of the throttle body bolts. How can I remove the transmission dipstick tube so that I can remove the throttle body?
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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I've recently been having battery drain issues with my 2002 Chevy Astro. After taking it to a local garage I was informed that nothing was wrong with it other than it needing a new battery. They put a new battery in and within two weeks of the van not being used the battery was dead. I did a bit of research online and learned that something may be drawing power while the van is off, and that I could do a fuse test with a multimeter. After performing this test I narrowed down the drain to being related to the following fuse:
19 Instrument Panel Radio: ATC(Main Feed), 2000 Series (Standby)
The only things that seem to be on this circuit are the radio, cd player and some elements of the instrument panel (e.g. odomoeter). I'd like to fix this problem but I'm sort of stuck as to what I should start testing from here. Today I disconnected the radio and cd player and tried performing the multimeter test again, with the fuse back in place. It appeared that there was still excess power being used with the vehicle off.
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I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T. Over 8 Hrs the battery goes from 12 to 10V and the start is real sluggish. I'm going to test the load on the battery when it is just sitting there to see if there is a short somewhere. I'm wondering what the load should be from the clock and radio which draw power even when off.
It is 4+ years old so it might be just time for a new battery..... Alternator is working....14V on the battery when the engine is running...... so there is charge form the alternator.....
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Installed an RNS-510 in my 2006 Passat, and this morning, I could tell my battery was nearly completely drained. Also, I know the unit is receiving constant power because it never "boots up" even after leaving the car turned off for a while. Usually, it should completely shut off after the car is off for ~30 minutes.
I guess I need to update my CAN module. What is an updated CAN that will work, and where this is located on my 2006 Passat?
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My 02 F250 is killing batteries. Also, when I try and lock the doors with the door lock switch, the doors lock then the driver side door almost immediately unlocks.
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The sunroof drain clogged on my '02 Passat and caused major damage to my electrical system. Its at the dealership being repaired and insurance does not want to pay to have carpet replaced. They will pay for the padding but not the carpet, the problem is they say the carpet and padding are one piece and both would have to be replaced. I am worried that if all it is not replaced I will have a stinky moldy smell in the middle of summer.
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Truck is 2002 2WD 4.7L Durango and around 164K
I am looking to replace the intermediate steering shaft as it making noise it seems they are common to this problem due to a weak U joint. The problem I have is I can track the correct part. Here is what I have research so far:
Have found this one 55351246AA but it says it will not fit.
Also found the Dorman 425-257 but it says is for 4WD but it reference to this OE part numbers: 55351208AA, 55351208AB, 55351246AA
Have try the Dodge parts website but that is even more confusing. I have already replace the ball joints, wheel bearings and inner and outer tie rods and this is the last part that needs to be replaced if I can track the correct one.
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So while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
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So i recently bought a used 2003 camry le 4cyl with 72k miles on it. So it's still in good condition. Previously I had a 92 camry 4cyl which is run with throttle cable. The new generation camry's now are drive by wire or driven electronically. So I decided to check out the whole car and looked into the throttle body, the out side of the butterfly plate, and notice some thick black substance. It seems like grease or oil. I don't know if its there to lubricate the motor to run the plate or just oil.
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When cranking there is no fuel from the throttle body. Dropped the fuel line on both sides of the filter that was replaced last fall and have good flow before and after the filter. If I spray starting fluid down the throttle body it will fire. Switched out the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve to no avail. It used to die after warming up every so often at a stop light but would start right back up, now it just quit and wont start ???
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