Passat (B5) :: 2003 1.8t Wagon - RPMs Kick Up On Cold Start
Jul 7, 2006
I recently acquired a 1.8t auto Wagon from a friend who passed away, I dont wanna sell it, so I figured why not keep it. So here's my question. On cold starts the RPM's kick up above 1K and then drop to the proper idle speed. The engine purrs nicely, but I have noticed that it sounds beefy inside the cabin during warm up. I can feel the light vibrations on the steering wheel. After I start driving the car warms up and everything seems normal. It just sounds like a fan or blower motor has come on with the engine. No ticking or anything like that. Is this normal?
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Last week, my Mazda 6 wagon would not start ... Jumped by auto club, and told the right battery cable was not tightly connected to battery. Car was ok for 2 days... Then same thing, it would not start, jumped again, battery was ok per auto club. Car ran for one day, then jumped again and brought to mechanic. Mechanic has had 24 hours, replaced new battery and cable connection... still not starting consistently with cold weather???
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In the first two years of ownership of my Passat, when I would turn the car on during cold days, the rpms would stay at 1500 for a quick 20 seconds until the car got a bit warm and then would drop down to about 800. Recently, when I turn the car on cold days, the rpms drop directly to 900 and below.
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Still trying to resolve this issue. I've replaced the coils and now the 6 month old NGK plugs with Bosch plugs. I bought a kit from ECU; the red coils and the Bosch plugs. Car revs smoothly no hiccups all the way on up. But sometimes the car won't start first kick, and the idle is almost always lumpy. CEL light has been on for more than several weeks. Last time I took it to the dealer to clear. It was back on the next day. 112 K (km) on car. 2009 TSI 2.0...
Parts Source will read the codes, and now there are plenty. I've looked at other threads re PCV valves and air leaks, but I don't believe they're related to the idle issue I'm having. More pronounced in the colder weather I might add.
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2001 Passat Wagon GLS v6 - 83k
Just replaced the drivers-side taillight and hood strut. Been a week or so since the vehicle has last been started as it is sitting in the garage. When I start the vehicle, it will turn over a bit, cranking away, then start clicking (pretty quickly).
If I pay careful attention while it is turning over, I can hear the door locks making some noise, kinda like they are trying to decide whether to lock or not. I will also get dash light flickering on/off. turn-turn-turn / click-click-click
I know it is not the battery. All power works fine when the key is just in the on position, no dimming, etc. Though it seems to be something electrical with the weird noises I get while trying to start.
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My 1999 GLS Wagon died on me at a stop light. The motor turns but won't start. Replaced fuel pump, filter, fuse, and relay on advice from a few friends. Still no go. Another friend recommended I check the crank sensor.
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Just got a CEL on my 03 Passat Wagon 1.8t. The light started blinking and car ran really rough. I also heard what I thought was a metalic clicking from the motor. Pulled the engine cover off and heard it even better. Had my wife start the car so I could get a closer look and it started up just fine. I have heard of a few things that might cause this. I am waiting for my vagcom to get here from my dad's place, so cannot scan it yet. Here are possibles.
1. Coil Pack (not year/part number of recall at least I don't think. What part number was under recall)
2. Issue with a vacuum hose ("L" shaped) on the top of the intake manifold.
3. Ignition control unit.
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My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
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The wife's Jetta wagon has been giving us some issue. It is a 2001 2.0 AZG engine auto trans wagon. 195,000 highway miles and well serviced and taken care of.
Here is the symptom : Engine will NOT rev over 3200. It will hit 3200 and stop dead. This is the case either in gear and driving or just sitting in Neutral. The engine seems to take a bit longer to start but does every time. The car seems to run great other then the 3200 rpm ceiling.
Wife has been driving it around like this for a while and I have let the codes accumulate. Here is the codes it gave me.
16727-cam position sensor- I just replaced the CPS with no improvement, issue is still there and code still pops up. I was told this code comes on when the car does not fire on the first rotation anyhow so it could be something else.
16804-cat o2 bank 1
16990-ICM issue
Cleared the codes and restarted the car. 16727 comes on immediately but other codes take a while to come on again.
I am leaning towards maybe an electrical issue? Bad ground, alternator output or something. Any tips on places of ground, connectors etc to clean and check? Also one or two guys keep mentioning coolant temp sensor and crank position sensor...but wouldn't those toss a code too?
I also pondered a plugged cat but I dunno, have had that before and you can usually tell right away...the car runs great until it hits 3200 and it is like a governor kicks in and she stops dead at 3200.
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I am new to my car. It is an '95 turbo wagon with a 5 speed conversion and a ARP orange ECU. The issue is the car is holding shift rpm for 4-5 seconds after I take my foot off the gas. Since I am taking the load off the motor when I clutch in, it actually climbs higher before it drops off. Needless to say it is not really drivable in traffic that way! The idle rpm is ok and the car pulls really well when accelerating. I have checked for vacuum leaks and I am heading for the Idle Air Control valve. I don't think the engine has any other mods and it is pretty high milage (188k).
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My 1992 960 automatic wagon with 326K miles has started to kind of lurch into low gear, especially from a stop or a rolling stop where I am not giving any gas but not using the brake. Then when I do give it some gas, it doesn't do anything at first, then it clunks into motion, and it seems to me the rpms are pretty high (3K). Once it gets going it seems fine, and it upshifts and downshifts as expected (well, occasionally it clunks changing gears at highway speeds, but it has done that for a long time). Yesterday during stop-and-go traffic (more than 100 miles worth) I was so stressed out wondering if it was going to completely die.
The winter mode arrow indicators have been stuck On for years, by the way, but it has never acted as if it thought it really was in winter mode (where you start up in third). They didn't think it was worth fixing, as it would have been very expensive and wasn't really affecting anything. I don't think my current issue could be that, though -- surely it wouldn't be clunking into gear then?
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2001 elantra has been revving really high on cold starts, RPMs will stay at over 3000 till u switch it into drive or reverse, Never happens when engine is warm, had intake cleaned out, did not solve issue...
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The last couple of times I've started the car from a cold start the RPM's fluctuate up and down for about 30 seconds and then it stops.
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Noticed that when you first start the car it makes a very strange noise? Almost as if the motor was running dry for a few seconds and the rpms fluctuate a little... Is that normal? I've only recently owned my camry and was just curious. 2.5L motor.
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I just turned on my car to move it out of the drive way and i noticed it starts rising when cold probably like 25-50 rpm then goes down, then back, and so on. i never noticed this before. is it a cold start assist or something like that ? i dont believe it does it when cold ( never noticed )...
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I have a 2006 Sorento, Idle at start, when cold is 2000 to 2200 rpms. When engine warms idle comes down to normal, 1000.
Replaced several vacuum lines, none showed any leaking but replaced to be sure.
Replaced the PCV valve, the old valve was not closing as it should and the replacement seemed to work some.
Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and checked the old one for movement, moved an 1/8 of and inch from when cold to when hot. The new IAC did improve the problem some.
Tested throttle position sensor voltage, was good through range of motion (including being tapped on to simulate the running of the engine).
Sprayed carburetor cleaner around the engine when cold to look for a possible manifold leak, nothing noted.
Noticed one area that brings down the high idle when sprayed with carburetor cleaner is in the front top center, around a small plastic cylinder which is part of the intake system and has a vacuum manifold which changes the position of the cylinder with engine operation. I have two pictures of the area attached, the white cylinder is at end of paint stick, the vacuum manifold is to the right of the paint stick and yes there are vacuum lines not hooked up in the pictures. Hoping this is not a manifold leak.
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I'm having trouble with my saab wagon blowing hot and cold at the same time. It generally occurs when the outside temp is within 10 degrees of the temp setting on the car. Now during the summer the drivers side will blow cold and the passenger side hot. I'm thinking it may be the solar sensor on the dash. Driving in this condition is not only uncomfortable but also highly embarrassing when I have a passenger.
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I have a 2002 F150 5.4 2 valve. only when the engine is cold, everyone once in a while the engine will surge up and down about 2-300 RPMs for about 10 seconds. also right when I put it in drive it will surge. I was thinking about pulling off the trottle body and cleaning it.
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I own a 2007 Ford Taurus with about 108k miles on it. When I first start the car, the rpms stay very high (2000) or so for about25 seconds. Once I start the car, until it gets all the way warm, the rpms want to stick around 1300 until I'm stopped for a few seconds, then they jerk downwards hard to almost 400 and come up to around 700.
After the car gets warmed up, it no longer sticks when I brake, but then when I'm stopped it lurches shakes and jerks between 400 and 1000 rpms. Occasionally it will die ( maybe twice a week) but then starts right back up again. I have replaced:
Air compressor
Idle air control valve
Throttle body sensor
I replaced the throttle body sensor yesterday and it seemed to drive better but it only lasted for about 12 hours then the next time I started the car it's doing it again. The only solution I've found so far is that it jerks just a little less when I'm in neutral.
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It started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
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I replaced my engine that had 155,000 miles with a newer used one with about 30,000 miles. since the swap my gas mileage is down by one third or more. Everything else seems fine except that my cold start idle is up to 2000rpm's until it drops to normal within 3 minutes.
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