Mazda :: Wagon Won't Start On Cold Morning
Jan 4, 2013
Last week, my Mazda 6 wagon would not start ... Jumped by auto club, and told the right battery cable was not tightly connected to battery. Car was ok for 2 days... Then same thing, it would not start, jumped again, battery was ok per auto club. Car ran for one day, then jumped again and brought to mechanic. Mechanic has had 24 hours, replaced new battery and cable connection... still not starting consistently with cold weather???
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I recently acquired a 1.8t auto Wagon from a friend who passed away, I dont wanna sell it, so I figured why not keep it. So here's my question. On cold starts the RPM's kick up above 1K and then drop to the proper idle speed. The engine purrs nicely, but I have noticed that it sounds beefy inside the cabin during warm up. I can feel the light vibrations on the steering wheel. After I start driving the car warms up and everything seems normal. It just sounds like a fan or blower motor has come on with the engine. No ticking or anything like that. Is this normal?
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Just bought a 1994 Camry Station Wagon, 84,000 km (53,000 miles) in very good condition. The two pre-owners used to keep car in garage inside the house, I keep the Camry out on the street.
Currently, I am experiencing the following problem: When it is cold outside (this is 20 to 25 degrees F), the car would not start the other morning. Everything inside the car is working (i.e. lights, radio, fan, sunroof etc.), a sign that battery is in good shape. Before buying the car, the owner replaced all the expendable parts you can imagine. Once it is getting warmer, the car would start perfectly well.
In the Consumer Guide I read the following about starting problems in the trouble spots section (referring to the 1992-1996 Camry series): "Hard starting: Hard starting after cold soak is due to ignition-coil voltage leaking to an inappropriate ground." All models, not a specific year.
On this thread I just found a comment posted on Jan. 31, 2004 by "yotatechie04", saying that - obviously - a similar problem occured to him on a 1999 model, and he found it had to do with "oil density".
Question: Is hard starting - for example after a cold night - a well known problem to 1994 model? What about the hint regarding "ignition-coil voltage leaking" and "oil density". What can be done?
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I'm experiencing vibration somewhere under the hood during start. I recently replaced the serp. belt and think it could be over-tensioned.
Possible?
Dangerous?
Or just the new belt needs to stretch?
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My 1991 Acura Legend LS does not start in cold weather and in the morning. Once it does, it keeps on starting and runs great. Prior to catching and starting it rattles and shakes and when I press the accelerator, it makes sounds like it is not getting enough air. The problem occured abruptly after a mechanic tried to find out why the radiator fan does not come on. That has been fixed by putting a new relay. The car has 176,000 miles and has never given starting problem before.
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I'm getting a gas smell when I start the car in the morning-especially if its cold. I typically blow the defroster which only makes it worse. It seems to be worse when its colder out and does not happen as the day goes on. My mechanic has checked for leaks-none. I thought it might be an oxygen sensor(?), he does not think so.
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Every now and then I have rattling noise when trying to start on a cold start in the morning. Mainly just sounds like a dry start. Battery is good, oil is full (high mileage Valvoline 5W20). Ive tried 5W-30 and it didn't do anything, just made the mpgs about 1 less.
Ive had the car fixed for the main TSB issue with the starter/camshaft so that is not it, which caused a full on grinding noise.
Everyday commuter car, use 87 chevron gas always, and I just used Lucas gas additive the last two fill ups (used normally every 1k miles) and still getting the noise every now and then in the morning. Are there any better injector cleaners out there?
Should I get the fuel injectors fully 3step cleaned? when talking to the service rep at brake-masters, they stated that I should use 91 premium gas to work with dry starts to burn off extra carbon buildup. Wasn't sure if that was a good idea for a 09 corolla S?
93k miles, new spark plugs last week, oil changes every 3k.
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2009 Matrix with 2Zr-Fe engine (233,000 km or 145000 miles).
Engine has been getting progressively harder to start in the morning, especially when it is cold. Once its warmed up then it starts no problem next time. Occasionally I get the dreaded P0304 code upon startup. Also runs a lot rougher but that's hard to quantify here, I'm just going by sound.
Decided tonight to go through a complete checkup and here is what I found:
1. Looked for a dead cylinder by idling the car and disconnecting each fuel injector one at a time - everything was as it should be.
2. Used my spark tester (OTC 6589) and tested each coil in turn (yes I had the tester connected to battery negative using a battery booster cable). Each sparked strong and correct colour.
3. Pulled all spark plugs and checked them for cracks, carbon tracks and electrode gap, all were fine.
4. Did a dry compression test.
- Uh oh , 2 cylinders (3 and 4) were @ 115 psi, 1 and 2 were at 150 psi (which is also low as standard spec for 2zrfe notes it should be between 157 and 199).
5. Did a wet compression test
- cylinders 3 and 4 now ended up at 150 Psi so that indicates worn rings or pistons?
6. I didn't bother with the fuel injector testing as it looks like the problem is with compression...
So, first, is my diagnosis correct? Could it be a bad head gasket?
Second, is there something in my procedure above that I could have done wrong? The car was warm but not hot. I pulled all spark plugs before starting testing. I didn't take much time between plug holes.
Third, other than rebuilding or replacing engine, are there other options or am I out of luck?
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2005 Mazda 6 wagon (AT); 110K mi
Of late, I have noticed a hi-pitched squeal, but only on sharp right turns!
I only just noticed it recently, the one time I had the radio off and windows down. Normally, the sound is too faint to hear.I did a few turns, both left and right, and it definitely only occurs on right turns -- eg when turning the corner.Since I only just noticed it, I have not yet brought it to my mechanic.
Also, I would note that the sound does not occur if I turn the wheel when stopped (eg at a light). It's definitely a car-in-motion symptom. Any possible areas to check?
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What is this metal on metal noise...you hear it the best around the 7-12 second mark...it is especially loud on cold start in the morning when you put the car in "drive" but don't move the car forward. It also is prevalent on hot days when you park the car outside and just start the car. The sound gets louder when you turn on the a/c during the hot day.
2010 2011 lexus engine noise metal noise - YouTube...
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My camry has been great up until the last week. The weather has gotten extremely cold here and when I start driving in the morning or from any cold starts the transmission doesn't shift out of second gear. After I drive it a mile or so and slow almost to a stop it will shift normally until I park it.
It has 125000 miles on it and I hope this isn't a serious problem because it is a great car and has been well taken care of. Looks brand new on the inside and out and I've never had any problems until now.
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Got a 2002 7.3 F-350 with 300,000 miles and for the last couple of years I've been getting blue smoke on cold morning start ups and its been gradually getting worse, it clears up after about 30 seconds and all is normal,No loss of performance, Oil consumption is minor, however I hate a vehicle that blue smokes, I'm guessing my issue is valve seals are worn, I was wondering if it is possible to replace the seals while the heads are on the engine? and was also wondering how much time it would take to fix? as i would have to have it professionally done. I know its hard to guess a time frame and everyone is different. Sounds like textbook valve seals to me but is there anything else I should check first?
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I have a 1998 Mazda Protege LX 1.5 L 4 Cylinder and i have been having some starting issues, and stalling at stop lights.
To be clear i have replaced/cleaned, Injectors, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Distributor Cap, Distributor Coil, Air Filter, Cleaned MAF, Cleaned the EGR Valve,
My car won't start in the morning, just gives cranks but if I press gas pedal it starts and have to keep it until engine gets hot enough. then it works till the car cools down again, and repeat the problem in the morning when I have to go to work. When the car is warm it starts fine but has idle issues regardless of temperature. As usual when the engine is cold or cool, it won't start.
Visited 2 different mechanic shops and the problem still exist, I don't know how and what they did it, it only worked for couple of months and the engine noise was bit high, I believe he just increased the idle, When i am at stop lights it has a rough idle and tries to die, When it idles it idles rough, Every once in a while I get a CEL Cylinder Misfire on cylinder 4. I'm confused on want to do , Don't know what else to do and its getting tiring, The car also feels like a lack of power.
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I have a 1999 Mazda Protege. In the mornings when I start my car, it revs in park, but the rpms go down when I put it into reverse and back out of my spot. When I put the car in drive, however, it will not go forward for at least 5 seconds (time has been increasing). I can press the gas and the engine will rev, but it takes a long time to actually get my little car moving forward. Is this a new transmission problem? I love this car and live in fear of having to replace it.
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Recently replaced the valve-stem seals, along with the head gasket in hopes that would fix this, but no change. It is my 1985 B2000 that (sometimes) emits Enormous amounts of whitish, lingering smoke on a cold-start, enough to hide a Sherman tank or two. So far, the best way to avoid the smoke is by Not engaging the auto-choke (not depressing gas pedal at all before starting) and let it warm up, even though it runs roughly for a about 5 mins., and then smooths out, but, with no smoke.
Oil use is less than 1/2Qt per 3K miles. The smoke does not have the usual oil smell - but not anti freeze either, (only water in system anyway). And it seems that letting the engine idle a bit Before shutting down avoid the smoke... Problem started about 2 years ago, and after fiddling with it all this time with no good results. Tho' I have considered possibly something maybe coming down a vacuum line...? but have no way to confirm.
MAZDA B2000 1985 5-SPD No Air 160K miles
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I'm having trouble with my saab wagon blowing hot and cold at the same time. It generally occurs when the outside temp is within 10 degrees of the temp setting on the car. Now during the summer the drivers side will blow cold and the passenger side hot. I'm thinking it may be the solar sensor on the dash. Driving in this condition is not only uncomfortable but also highly embarrassing when I have a passenger.
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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My Variant (2007, 48K miles) is experiencing a squealing noise during cold morning (below 45F) start ups? AC always off at start up and the noise goes away once the engine is warmed up. I brought it to the dealer last week and after leaving the car over night they told me the noise can't be duplicated which is a total BS. [URL].....................................
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Since my V6s very rough ride only occurred on cold mornings (fixed with a new driveshaft early this year), I wonder if some of the newer owners will be complaining of this problem soon, now that we're embarking on fall.
The symptom was strange. On cold mornings, between 30 and 50, the Touareg would feel as though it was riding on extremely rough pavement.... over 50 it was fine, and then, after about ten minutes of driving, it went away at all speeds.
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Although the manual is silent on the topic, I can swear that the font seats in my new PriusC warm up on cold mornings. There is no on/off switch for this to happens...
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I have Hesitation problem with my expedition 2004 during mooring time some time when car in cooling condition but now days must of the time I have this problem I want to many work shop and the tested my car by computer but they cant find clear fault the told they need to check many thing.
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