Passat (B5) :: 2003 V6 AC Blows Hard But Quit Blowing Cold
Aug 19, 2011
Have 2003 V6 FWD Passat. A/C blows hard but quit blowing cold. Noticed last week, that sitting for a long light, A/C would quit blowing cold, then cycle on again every 20-30 sec. After worked fine. Yesterday no cold air.
Read on forums about the 384 relay. My electric fan is NOT coming on. Started car, turned A/C on high, and checked voltage on connecter to fan. was negligible. Car was fully warmed up, so i figure voltage should be 14.0 VDC
Making assumption that it is either the AC relay 384, or the fan relay but there are two, a 214 and a 213.
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I currently own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 135,000K miles on it, and have had continual problems with the A/C not blowing cold over the last year or so.
A year ago, took it to what I thought was a reputable mechanic (not a dealer) who diagnosed the problem as a "bad" master circuit board. Thing ran fine for about 6 months, then started to intermittently blow warm air, until it finally quit blowing cold.
Finally broke down and took it to the dealer hoping they would be able to fix the problem. They charged me $110 and told me the refrigerant was low so they topped it off. 6 weeks later, once again not blowing cold, took it back. They said this time they found a "leak" in the refrigerant hose, replaced the hose, topped off the refrigerant, and sent me on my way (free of charge, of course, since they should have fixed it the first time).
Well...6 weeks later and once again, not blowing cold, so back to the dealer I go. Once again, they said the hose was "leaking" and they did the dye test (shouldn't they have done this the first time?) and replaced the hose, and the refrigerant. Good for another 6 weeks, then once again, not blowing cold.
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When I turn on the heater on at any temp and fan setting the A/C automatically turns on (compressor and condensor fan turns on) . Engine temp comes up and stays at 190. I can turn up the heat to HI and still cold air blows. All buttons and LEDs work on the climatronic, is it the climatronic that is bad?
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My AC blows hot air, like heater hot, but the defrost on cold blows cold air. At first the AC would cut out at low rpm's (stop sign or red light) and cut back on, now its nothing. But the defrost blowing cold, enough to fog up the windshield, tells me its not the compressor or freon.
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I have a 2003 f250 SD 5.4L 2wd. Yesterday I get in and start it up .. no hot air just blows cold. What to check
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The front a/c blows cold air but the 2nd row and back blows warm. Yes the temp dial is on cold on both dials. Is there a separate a/c clutch that I dont know about to ck the air gap? Is there a separate port to put freon in besides the front. I need to get this fixed because with my bulldogs in the back the heat will kill them.
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My 05 has always had good air conditioning front and back but around three weeks ago it quit blowing cold. I found all the 134 had leaked out through a pin hole in the aluminum line that runs down the back of the engine to the rear ac unit. I removed the line and brazed the pin hole. So I reinstalled the line, put a vacume on the system for 20 mins then let it sit for another 20 to make sure I had no leaks. All seemed good so I re charged the system. Now my front blows nice and cold but the rear is warm?
My pressures at idle are around 40psi low side and 200ish on the high side when the engine is warmed up and the ambeint temp is around 74 f. If I turn it to the warmest setting for the rear it gets noticeably hotter so I'm thinking the blend door is working properly?? I've read that the thermal expansion valves can give some trouble so I pulled the jack and cubby out to gain access to it. I tried tapping on it with no gains. Also the top left line seems to be pretty cold coming out of it too the evaporator but the line coming out of the evap is room temp. I was very careful not to let any junk get into the lines when they were apart for the line repair but I'm thinking maybe some junk has plugged up the TXV?
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It was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
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Will the computer in a 2007 shut down the AC compressor in an overheating scenario because it would be considered non essential? Yesterday on my way home from work my AC quit blowing cold. I just had the compressor changed a couple of months ago so my first though was bad compressor. Then I noticed the temp gauge start to climb. The truck was over heating. There was a hole in the radiator. Now that the overheating problem is fixed the AC is again blowing cold. I just would like to know if I may be starting g to have issues with the compressor again or if it's natural for it to shut the compressor off because of overheating of the motor.
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The AC on my car (2002 Jetta 1.8t) quit blowing cold. Did some troubleshooting and...
1. Checked Freon- level was ok
2. Noticed cooling fans were not coming on with AC button pressed and ignition on. Fans also not coming on when car up to temperature, but gauge never went above normal. Seems strange considering I live in Houston and it was 95+ out.
3. tested fans with direct power and both high and low are fine.
4. jumped terminals 1,2 and 2,3 on plug for cooling fan switch and fans turn on high and low...so thought must be bad cooling fan switch.
5. Replaced cooling fan switch and still no fans or ac when AC button is pressed and ignition on.
6. replaced Fan control module. Still no fans.
7. Checked Freon once more...and although it was in the ok range decided to add a little more. (was in the middle of ok range, and a cheap gauge)
8. Compressor kicks on, along with cooling fan. End up using the 1 can I had and now have cold air and fans that come on when hitting the AC button with ignition set to on position.
I thought the mkiv cars would always turn on the fans when AC button is pressed with ignition on? Or does the compressor also need to be charged?
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My 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
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Basically when I have it cranked on high (level 4) it feels like its blowing on level 2. some times when I start the car it doesn't even turn on. I have to tap or hit under the glove box for it to start. Is it wiring or could it be AC Blower fan or something else.
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I have a weird problem with the A/C on my 93 S10. It will start blowing warm air but if I accelerate real hard it will start blowing cold again.
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My 05 wagon's a/c seems to be acting up. It takes about 30 minutes of running the a/c before it blows cold air. It's under warranty so I'll be taking it in.
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My g/f's 98 Passat 1.8T has been pretty bad on being able to blow hot air inside, and now that its colder out its even worse.
Ever since she got the car, the coolant temp gauge is always at it's coldest, so I'm thinking its time for a greentop sensor. Her coolant right now is a lil low so, in the meantime, I'll be headed to the dealer to get both a new CTS and some G12.
Her fan does blow air, but could there be anything else wrong that would keep it from blowing hot air?
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A friend has a 2003 F150 that after starting up will run hot but blow cold air when the heater is on. The truck will run hot for ~ 5seconds then all of a sudden the temp drops to normal range and the heater begins to blow hot. Simultaneously, the oil pressure light comes on when the truck runs hot, then falls to the normal range when the temp drops. I thought perhaps the thermostat is in backward.
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My 1999 F250 ld light duty has an AC problem. It only blows cold sometimes. And it doesn't always work when selected to AC or Max AC. It will work on Panel also. When it works it works great. It blows really cold. But it will work fine then I'll come to a stoplight and it will stop sometimes.
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1998 F150 step side, 4.6 V-8 automatic, 176,000 miles -
Heater begins to blow heat as the engine warms up - heat gauge moves up to normal level - running at speed, suddenly the heater blows all cold, the heat gauge pegs to total hot - the oil light comes on, the engine begins to miss - stop the truck, shut off the motor, wait 10 seconds, start back up and all is normal and away I go. Heater working just fine. Gauges are just fine. Have checked the hoses when it pegged to hot, and they are just warm just as if everything is normal.
Problem is intermittent.
Have changed radiator reservoir cap, thermostat, made sure fluid level and mixture is correct - what else to check? Computer issue?
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The air coming out the right front vents is cold; but, the air coming out the left front vents (driver's side) is warm. Sliding left ac slider switch up and down did no good. Considered fuse, but both left and right AC controls run through same fuse. Suspect bad motor for left side plenum duct, or bad connection, or faulty vacuum at motor (if motor is vacuum actuated). Considering removing dash cover to see if I can find the motor, but not sure how to remove dash cover, or even if that's the way to find the motor.
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My 2003 Buick Century heater works fine while accelerating but as soon as I release the gas the air begins to cool, swiftly. I have had the radiator flushed and the coolant topped off but the problem persists.
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My brother-in-law has a 97 F-150 with 4.6L that has no heat in the cab (blows cold air no matter what setting at HVAC controller). Heater core was replaced one year ago and T-stat was replaced last night. Coolant level is full and the heater hoses are BOTH hot so I believe warm coolant is flowing through the heater core. I am thinking that the HVAC controller may be at fault or maybe the mixing door in the HVAC plenum is malfunctioning. I have 97 rangers that had a broken hinge pin for the mixing door inside the plenum (a common problem with these trucks), maybe this is the same issue (I don't know). I am taking the whole dash out to see what the trouble is.
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