Passat (B5) :: Brakes Seized On The Freeway - Pedal Barely Go Down When Pressed
Jun 22, 2007
This morning my brakes seized up on me on the freeway. I noticed it when I pressed the brake pedal and I it would barely go down. Then, I could smell the brakes. I pulled over and there was a strong smell from the brakes and I couldn't press the brake peddle down any. I waited a while and let the brakes cool off and then they were fine. I got the rear brakes replaced at the dealership earlier this year.
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This problem just started the other day. I park in a very slightly inclined garage and now when I get into my car in the morning, the brake pedal is so stiff the brakes barely engage and the car will actually roll until the engine turns over. All other braking behavior is completely normal while driving and it only occurs if the car has been sitting overnight. Doesn't seem to happen if it just sits for a few hours.
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Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
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I purchased a 2001 Prius with 123K miles about two weeks ago. I knew the HV battery was shot when i purchased it. I decided to see if I could rebuild the HV battery on my own.
I'm very mechanical but not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to batteries and anything electrical.
So here is where I'm at so far:
- I removed the HV battery.
- safely rested it on 2 horses (I used horses because it would give me easy access to the bottom to remove the bottom screws)
- Removed all 38 modules from the battery pack
- cleaned the busses in vinegar
- inspected each wire that connects between buss and the nut.
- tested each battery ( one of the batteries tested at -0.1, the others tested at 6.8)
- I don't know how to load test the modules, so I couldn't tell if they would drop dramatically under load, so I ordered 38 used replacement batteries off of Ebay. (Gen II)
- these replacement modules were about a half inch longer than my original modules.
- The replacement modules arrived. I cleaned the terminals, tested each one and installed them.
- Connected the battery back into the prius.
- Installed new 12V battery from the Toyota dealer.
- The Prius started right up.
- Drove it around for the first time for about 10 minutes.
- When i was driving it, the monitor in the Prius would show the engine running most of the time but sometimes it would show it charging the HV and other times charging the 12V. the engine would shut off at stop lights and resume when I pressed on the gas pedal.
- while driving back into my driveway, all of the warning lights came on and the battery fan kicked into high gear,
- I can't remember the code I pulled but it was in reference to the cells being out of balance I think. I'll have to check it again tonight when I get home.
- I removed the HV and tightened the nuts around the busses hoping the issue would be resolved.
- I was able to drive it only a few minutes before the issue returned.
other issues I noticed.
While waiting for the replacement batteries to arrive, I did the following:
- changed the cabin filter
- did an oil change.
- changed the tranny fluid and removed the tranny pan to clean out the slime and clean off the magnet.)
- changed the rear brake shoes.
- changed the front brake rotors and pads. ( they were in awful condition due to sitting so long)
***when I pressed on the brakes, only the rear brakes seem to engage, not the front. I never attempted to bleed them because I know only the dealer can do that)
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Ive got a 2011 Sonata GLS with 111k miles. I purchased the car new. For the past several months the brakes make a crunch or creaking sound when the pedal is being pressed OR released. The funny thing is it only happens when driving forward. When I apply the brakes while reversing, the brakes are silent. I did a pad slap at 68k and have taken everything apart, cleaned and re-lubed to no avail. The sound can be heard at the front wheels when someone else works the pedal while the car is parked. Pads have about 50% thickness. Pads? Calipers, master cylinder?
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I'm hearing a squeking noise when I go over bumps and when I i press the brakes. sounds like it could be my springs or some such related thing.. Could it be a different front end issue?
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When brake pedal is fully pressed and my car is in drive the pedal vibrates. The only thing I thought of is that my intake is touching something, but I don't see anything.
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I have a 2006 volkswagen passat 3.6 litre v6- have had this car about a year now, 60,000 miles, no problems until recently. Last week I started noticing that when I am driving, with my foot on the gas, it would intermittently act as if it was decelerating at a rapid pace( will drop gears, is NOT a coast)- even when I floored it!! As soon as it stops responding to the throttle I can floor it, nothing will happen, then let the gas peddle go- then reapply gas and it will act perfectly normal- no flooding, no nothing!! I have been able to keep it floored( while it is decelerating) for about 30 seconds, and it seems to make no difference.
The only other problem that I have recently noticed was that my cruise control was acting only intermittently as well. Oh, also while all this is happening it isn't throwing any check engine, or error lights. I have taken it to the dealer, and also to another specialty mechanic( with master certified technicians) and neither seem to find any problem with the vehicle, the only code that they said was found was one to the mass air flow??, but they weren't sure that was actually the problem, as, of course, they cannot seem to replicate my problem, even though it is now happening quite a lot. I am worried about driving my car now as it is quite a hazard when it decelerates rapidly, and to top it all off, we were supposed to leave for a 2,000 mile road trip in 10 days.
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I recently noticed that my car wasn't performing the ABS self-test (that little brake pedal vibration and sound you hear when you reach 5 mph backing up on the first start-up of the day). Saturday I had to make a sort of emergency stop, and I didn't feel that ABS vibration in the pedal, and I even skidded slightly.
There's no message on the display about the ABS or anything else. I did recently have my front pads and rotors replaced with OEM parts, including pads w/sensors. Is there anything the mechanic could have done while replacing the brakes that might have messed up the ABS.
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2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?
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I jacked up both front wheels and I can't move them at all. I was able to get the car into neutral and still they won't move. emergency brake off as well (even though that only stops the rear wheel) Could the disc brakes be too tight or could they just be on all the time somehow? I had noticed that when driving, it felt like the brakes were on. This feeling was especially evident when taking my foot off the gas pedal to glide on flat ground, and the car would slow down faster than I thought it should. Also notice a huge drop in MPGs. I know the car is FWD, so maybe there is supposed to be resistance but I can barely get either wheel to turn more than an inch or two.
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2014 Passat... I've got a little over 2,000 miles on mine now and I really do like the car. However, one thing that is really bothersome to me is----the brakes.
I'm not sure if it is specific to my car or to the passat in general. Here's the issue:
When applying the brakes, the pedal feels almost loose, as though the is no pressure on it, but once you push the pedal down far enough the brakes come on heavy, hard and fast. It's like turning on a light switch.
I am wondering if this is an adjustment that I can have done at the dealer to put more feel into the brakes or if this is just something that we all have to live with, of if maybe there could be something wrong with the brakes on my car.
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Lately almost every morning my brakes have been seized. After releasing the parking brake the car won't budge without a bit of gas and a loud BANG from all four wheels as they become unstuck. And I don't mean a small bang, it sounds like someone whacked the wheel with a sledgehammer. It has been cold, snowy, icy, wet, and very salty here lately, but the car is parked in an underground garage overnight where the temperature is above freezing.
After becoming unstuck the brakes are noisy and very rough. They'll also re-seize at each stoplight, but with just a small bang. This slowly gets better as I use them, until the next time. Is this normal?
I can't imagine it's good for the health of the brakes for this to be happening. I've heard of this happening if a car is left sitting in wet conditions for a couple weeks, but only after 12 hours, and again at each light? I also had the dealer take apart and clean the brakes about 4 months ago.
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I got a 2002 passat 1.8t in the shop fixin some bodywork on it. When its in the cold the brake pedal gets rock hard and if you step on it the brake lights come on and stay on, when it stays in the shop its fine.
Read online about an issue with water getting in the brake booster and freezing. found nothing in the search...
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I made a thread in the F150 section but maybe it should have went here. Anyhow I'm replacing the front shocks on my 99 150, and well the bushing was completely seized up to the bolt on the bottom of the shock and I ended up breaking the one side of the shock mount off with it. I can't see any easy way of getting it off, I fear I might run into the same problem with the other side.
Would it be ok to just bolt the new shock back on, sans the forward mount? If its just bolted through the rear bolt hole will there be too much play? I really don't feel like replacing the whole lower suspension arm on this beater truck, and I dont think my welding skills are up to that. I don't think my little stick welder even has enough heat.
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The transmission is a Six-speed MQ350 transmission in an MKIV 337 GTI.
I was driving last week and ran over a large snow chunk, heard it hit the underside of my car. A mile down the road my foot is resting on the clutch pedal at a stop light, and the clutch slowly went to the floor. It was still drivable, barely. The clutch came about an inch off the floorboard, but still caught. So i pull into the parking lot ahead of me, and was barely able to move the shifter left to right nor would the shifter go into gear. There were no fluids coming from under the car, nor could i see anything that looked wrong. I turned off, back on again. nothing. I then pulled the clutch pedal up from the floor and it went back to normal. Everything seems normal now, but the shifter seemed a little sticky yesterday from left to right.
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I know that VW's are known for funky problems. Sometimes when it has recently rained heavily, the brakes will make a crunching sound when I press the pedal down, and there is also increased pressure, as if there is water stuck somewhere. It will drive fine for a few minutes and then will start shuddering, spewing exhaust, and nearly stalling. The engine light will often flash, and for this reason I brought it into my mechanic who is a VW specialist. It was first diagnosed as a faulty engine coil, and that was replaced. The problem came back repeatedly and he said I would have to wait until it "got worse" for him to figure it out. I've been riding it out since then, and once I get to my destination and the car sits for a little bit (usually 4+ hours), it runs fine again. The rainy season has started so I'm a little worried about this happening on a regular basis. This has never happened in dry weather.
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'97 Toyota Solara Convertible V6. Car starts fine, idles good. However, NO acceleration. When the gas pedal is pressed RPM gage moves up to 1200 from 1000 RPM. Car will move up to 5 mph. Engine lite is on full time. A/C if fine, radio is fine, all headlights fine, good dash lights. Have not checked the fuses because I assume to get this far they must be good.
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I have replaced the computer in a Honda Civic twice. The first time the car was acting like it wasn't getting power;the engine would rev when the gas pedal was pressed but the car would not go! so the computer was replaced, and two weeks later,t he same thing happened. They said it was a short and would not replace the computer-it was our problem. Finally, they agreed to replace the part. Got the car back, fixed a ouple of othere things and now, two weeks later, the same thing is happening. Car acts like it's not getting any power, and this time the check iengine light came on. The car has a new altenator, new battery, and the after-factory radio has been removed..
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I just bought a 1998 F150 2wd with the 4.6L(no ABS) to be my beater home depot truck. The brakes barely functioned, so I replaced the front bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. I bled the brakes exactly like I normally do. When I tried to move the truck, the rear tires spun with the front completely locked(also discovered the right rear line had a hole and crimped the line for a moment, but it was the tire that was spinning).
I searched and many people said that bad rubber lines cause the calipers to lockup. I loosened the bleed valves and the fronts were still locked(jacked up the truck and used a breaker bar on lug nuts trying to rotate each tire). I am guessing that it has to be master cylinder or the steel lines. Any tests I could do to narrow down this issue further?
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I was wondering if this problem is the "Barking" noise that keeps coming up the search or is it another problem. I will include a link to the video down below.
To start off, the Prius is 2010 Prius II and has 120k miles on it. Great Car. Only other problem was AC compressor dying at 90k.
The chirping noise happens when the brake pedal is pressed and does not go away until the release the pedal. It makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off.
It makes the noise when the car is stopped and or when the mechanical brake engage at between 0 and 6 mph.
Noise does not occur when the brake switch is removed. Not valid solution since the brake lights will stay on. It does not affect the performance of braking.
Here is the link to the video .... .... ....
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