My wife drives a 2004 passat 4 motion 1.8 T that for a couple of days has been acting up. By acting up I mean it will turn over but won't start. When this happens and after letting the key out of the start position, the epc and cel light will stay on. After letting it sit for a while it will start.
View 2 RepliesI jump started my santafe becouse the battery was weak. After it started the check engine light on the dashboard came on and it stays on. What could the problem be.
View 1 RepliesWhen I turned on my 2005 Passat V6 this morning, it idled very rough and the check engine light came on. Kind of sounded like a misfire. After about a minute or so, the engine ran as it always has....normal. Smooth as ever. Well I had it scanned at AZ and they said it was in fact a misfire from two of the cylinders. So then I called my local VW service department and the guy there gave me a no nonsense over the phone diagnosis, he told me that he owns a V6 Passat and he encountered the same issue on several occasions when the outside temperature drops precipitously over night. He stated that the misfire is due to condensation in the ignition/coil area. He stated that it is in fact a very common problem and that I would be fine and that the light would go away on it's own. The car is running fine. Should I really worry?
View 4 RepliesInstalled new egr valve and check engine light still won't stay off...
View 4 RepliesCheck engine light flashed for a very brief period, car ran very rough, and then check engine light (exhaust system malfunction) stayed lit. Took to dealer this AM and service advisor asked that I bring it back on Monday morning (loaner promised) but in the meantime, I could continue driving it unless the engine light started flashing. Car is now running okay, but last night it seemed to be running on only 6 or 7 cylinders. Only 93 or 94 octane gas is used and I've owned enough German cars to know how the gas cap should be tightened. Seemed like an oxygen sensor malfunction last night but now I'm not certain.
View 15 RepliesMy girlfriend's 2001 Toyota Corolla has a recurrent Check Engine light problem. It has 144,000 miles on it. For the last few years, we have been unable to keep the light turned off. We have replaced the oxygen sensors and cleaned the MAF sensor. Our mechanic can't find the problem.
View 3 RepliesMy check engine light won't stay off. My mechanic keeps replacing things. He says its got to be the exhaust system. I was wondering if its something electrical or within the car's computer system. First time he replaced one of the catalytic converters. The light went off then reappeared several days later. He replaced the oxygen sensor. Light off again then back on 2 days later. Then he replaced the other catalytic converter. (I was told there are 3 of them). Once again the engine light went off but reappeared 2 days later.
View 3 RepliesI Installed an HID kit and after starting the car for the first time the check engine light stayed on and shortly after the car started moving the trac orange light came on too.. its a pic of a car with sliding marks below it. What could be causing this??
View 3 RepliesI have a small problem with my 2011 Camry base model manual transmission. I replaced my rear view mirror and installed the EC homelink with compass rear view mirror as the replacement. I followed the instructions and it works fine but after connecting the battery again and turning the car on my check engine light stays on. I had the same problem when I installed my HID head light kit and I disconnected the battery and apparently it reseted the computer because the check engine light turned off, but I tried to disconnect and reconnect the battery twice now after installing the mirror and my check engine light is still on. How to reset it?
View 6 RepliesComing back from Busch Gardens today. Filled up at a Shell. Got on the road and within minutes got a check engine light and the throttle started surging like when you have water in the tank (know from past experience-don't ask). Is the check engine light what would come on if I had water in the tank?
I was able to make it home after adding one bottle of dry-gas but the car is still doing it...major loss of power during mid-level throttle. I was able to keep the engine light from coming on if I was very careful with the throttle and kept the revs around 3K or higher.
Hate to take it to the stealership if not necessary. Burned 1/4 tank of gas on the way home. Should I add a second bottle of dry-gas and top off the tank with fresh gas before taking it in? Don't want to damage injectors or?
Naturally, the dealer service close to me and my regular repair shop are both closed today, so my mind is racing. My check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and I have been waiting for my guy to get back for it's full 80+K workup/service. That was to be right away.
This morning on my 5 mile trip to work after my car sitting for a day, the check engine light came on as usual (with no seeming weird behavior) - but as I was going through some S-curves, the EPC light came on and it felt as if the engine was throttling down, not knowing how to shift, something.
I wasn't far from my parking lot so I drove on here, parked nose out and popped the hood. Nothing visible (not that there would be necessarily) but weird exhaust smell.
I just went back out after lunch and it cranked for a good 20+ seconds over three start attempts before it finally did. Tach went all low and jiggly before kicking in and revving steadily at 1K. However, white puffs of smoke began coming out the exhaust - weird smell (e.g., unburnt fuel perhaps...)
I'm only in a mild panic as I'll likely have to have this towed in and I don't have a clue what I'm facing. I get conflicting tales online as to what it might be but I'd love to impose on your brains if you have some insight to share. I've read about coil packs, throttle bodies, and more.
The only mechanical issue I've had with this engine was that I had the intake manifold assembly replaced right after my warranty went out. Had the throttle body cleaned then, too. Nothing since other than regular services according to vw standards.
I have a 2005 with 206,000 miles and the check engine light came on. The code reads "pedal position" but local mechanics are not knowledgeable to deal with electronics. The check engine light has been sporadic off and on so is this serious?
View 5 RepliesI've just done an engine swap to my 2000 GTS Celica. The new engine seems to run nice and tight and smooth and everything but I can't seem to bring the idle down. It stays revving at about 2000 RPM and the check engine light is on. The engine is from Japan and only has 35,000 kms. on it.
View 14 Replies06 sonata 3.3 L V6. Light has been on for a month or two...took it in to mechanic yesterday and it's a camshaft position sensor error...it makes total sense to me now because my cars been starting hard, seems like it gets hotter then usual...and had a "clicking" noise for about 10 mins, then gradually goes away. it takes a few extra cranks now to start the engine unless it was already fired up.
Also does a jerk once and a while around 40 km/h. I looked online and those seem to all be symptoms of a failed camshaft position sensor (CMP). Would those symptoms seem about right? Am I okay to drive slowly for the weekend before I get the new sensor installed? The mechanic didn't seem to worries about me driving for just the weekend...but it's worrying me a bit...
My check engine light came on the other day and the code stated the the "throttle position is open" so after researching and everyone telling me that i need to change the sensor. I did everything after was fine running better but today only after 3 days replacing it i get the same problems. car has no get up and go hardly can push to 20 mph and when in idle i press the break it starts to bog down and almost want to shut off! and can be really loud...
Santa fe 05' 3.5L ....
What are the common misfire problems with the mk4 R32? My R is acting funny every once in a while it runs perfect then some other times it seems to big and the check engine light starts to blink but doesn't stay on I ran for codes and it said I had a miss fire but after that the code never came up again but it still blinks.
View 7 RepliesCar dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
View 1 Replies1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
View 2 RepliesI just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
View 4 RepliesPretty nice condition 2003 1.8t Passat 5 speed yesterday with 45k miles. nice price, mint interior, only a few minor blemishes on the bumpers.
Anyways, I was noticing that the gas pedal needs to be pushed in about half half before the car wants to move. I do not believe it was the clutch going bad as the engine wasn't revving when i was letting the clutch out, it just didn't seem to move until the gas pedal was half way down. again, no clutch slippage, engine was not revving.
This started about 2 weeks ago. Every time I get gas, I fasten the gas cap tightly, and then go to start my car and it won't start. It won't turn.
I'll try once or twice, and then sit for a few minutes. Then I try again, and it'll turn and catch, but then sputter for a minute and I have to keep pressing the gas pedal..after a minute of this, it'll run OK.
Not sure if its related, but the check gas cap light keeps coming on.