I tried to go to work this morning and the car just didn't want to crank. I thought it was the door lock (immoviliser), checked the starter wires everything seems ok.... I'm totally lost here.
View 4 RepliesIam looking at a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke that has some problems first it is hard to start cranks like it has a dead cyl. Second after starting it has no power not even enough to move. At first it would only run if held wide open but once it warmed up it would idle and rev and move but barely still had a miss. The weird thing is it did not smoke blue-black or white also no strong smell of diesel and no smell of oil at all. The truck has 230ish miles and there are no maintenance records.air filter was new.
View 7 RepliesStopped at the store, came out, started truck, ran for two seconds, shut off, hasn't run since,had no codes,or any other issues. I have checked all the fuses,breakers,main power supply off of passenger battery, still nothing. I have head and taillights, power points on dash, dome lights, chime for headlights. 79674 miles.
View 6 RepliesIhave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
I have a e99 f350 7.3 all stock. I have no power. The truck will crank for about 15-20sec before it'll turn over. I just purchased the*AE*but am fairly new to understanding it all. In idle its a little rough and when I drive I can only stay in the neighborhood because of fear of getting rearended due to very slow acceleration. Whats weird is that when i have no power while i am driving ill keep the pedal down throw it in nuetral and my rpms and*icp*pressure jump up right away. Things I've replaced:
Icp*sensor
Fuel pump
Pcm
Tps
Cps
Ipr
Dropped tanked and cleaned screens
When cranking my*icp*pressure climbs slowly to right under 500. I dont know what else to do ive been working on this truck dor two months some days 13hs straight, I am feeling defeated. Codes p1249 1211 1209....
2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
View 7 RepliesI have a '03 Passat GLX v6 4motion. My problem is the car will not crank. All other electrical items work and it has a new battery. when the key is turned....nothing. it started yesterday morning no problem, went to the PO 1/2 mile away. After that no start. the condition is like when you try to start a car while in any gear except for neutral or park. also timing belt was done within the past 2000 miles.
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 B5 passat 1.8t and the car wont crank at all.
I drove the car fine all day yesterday and when i got home from school at night and tried to start it nothing happened. The car wont crank at all.
When the key is on everything is fine. my radio works lights work power windows everything.. but when i try to start it nothing happens.
Also when i start my car the battery light will stay on and everything will be low volt in the car but as soon as i rev it up the light goes off and everything works properly. I know this is probably another problem but maybe it might have something to do with this!
So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
View 9 RepliesWell, this is the second time this has happened. After filling up the car I went to start her and she would crank, but wouldn't start. I waited about 30 second tried again and gave it some gas and it cranked for about 3 or 4 seconds after giving it the gas and it finally started. I've only filled up twice now and this is the second time it has happened. Took the car into the dealership for a check engine light last week and it said there was a large leak. They believe it was the gas cap (because I also had the gas cap light come on).
View 8 RepliesSo months ago, my wife reported the starter wouldn't crank, but after a few tries it did and the car started right up, no issues since then. I figured she didn't push the clutch in far enough.
Two weeks ago, the car threw a code for the Cam position sensor and was making some funky noises (hard to describe, almost like a rattle inside/beneath the engine) and started bouncing at idle. I replaced that within a few days and cleared the code, but the noise persisted as well as the idle (but not all the time).
Then last week it was still ratting around with no codes, but died on the highway and had to get it towed home. It would turn over, but wouldn't start. After fiddling a while and trying to start it a bunch, it would no longer turn over, so I figured the battery didn't have enough juice. Trying to jump it, I got sparks like you wouldn't believe. I actually started a small fire, and I hooked up the cables correctly too! I checked all the cables, made sure I was doing it correctly and tried again, same thing. So then I researched and saw that can be caused by a failing battery. Sure enough, the battery was 7 years old, so I went and replaced it. Still no start.
A few days later, checking more at home, it had spark, I can hear the fuel pump turn on, timing belt is in good shape, and the throttle is opening (electronically controlled). Still confused I bought a HEX+CAN and here's the results for Engine:
3 Faults Found:
16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High
P0113 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small
P1543 - 35-00 - -
17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low
P1172 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 1101
So after taking apart the throttle to check it to make sure that it indeed was opening like the vag-com said it was, I put it back together and now the car won't crank. Well, I've been testing it for a while, so I figured the new battery was starting to get low, so I went to jump it and I almost started another little fire. The jumper wires heat up like crazy too. Their is no continuity between the negative and positive terminals on the battery, so I'm not sure what's going on.
2001 V6, 5sp .... Engine will not crank/turn over.
Dealer initially thought broken timing belt. They looked again today (through an inspection hole) and belt was still in place and under tension but some teeth seemed to be missing. They THINK it could be a seized water pump that caused this (there was otherwise no indication of a seized water pump). Cams/belts do not move when you try to start it. Dealer said engine would need to be replaced or the damage repaired from trying to start it and causing whatever internal damage this causes..heads, valves, etc. that's where it stands now.
I got a 99 passat 1.8t.. If I try to crank the car it has washed out cylinders. This only happens after i try to hit the gas and it cuts off.it will idle, but as soon as I hit the gas it cuts off. Then when i try to crank it back up the car has no compression. I know it is washed out cylinders because if you let it sit for a few then it will crank back up. and i know what no compression sounds like on a 1.8t. changed the fpr, MAF, coil packs, gas cap...
View 4 Replies2000 B5 Variant V6 4motion / tip .. Randomly experiencing " no crank " when trying to start , sometimes after a few re-tries the dash icons re-appear and motor cranks & fires up. At other times no joy , leave it for 1 or 3 hrs. , re-starts normally . Also tried starting in "N" instead of "P" , and have cleaned battery terminals and load tested the battery ( all good )..
View 1 RepliesOn the way to work, the truck seemed to have a miss at idle and the CE light came on. Long crank to start leaving work, and truck starts losing power and eventually died. No smoke while it was losing power. Towed it home and checked the fuel pump and lines for blockage and found nothing.
2003 7.3 F-250 430K miles
strong cranking but no start no smoke out exhaust
Oil changed recently
IPR changed
Both UVCH gaskets and pigtails have been repaired.
ICP sensor and harness changed, also disconnected no change in cranking.
fuel filter changed today (no oil in bowl)
3/4 tank of fuel
dash gauge for lpop goes up to normal range during cranking and oil light turns off.
WTS light comes on and turns off as normal
tach gauge moves up between 100-200 during cranking
fuel pump turns on and pressurizes system like normal and turns off.
Ordered AE for the truck, and it directed me to the passenger side bank high open. Fixed the harness on that side and still nothing.
Sent off the IDM and it passed with flying colors
So now i'm leaning towards the HPOP, but would hate to fork over the cash for it and still not get anywhere. I'm going to take the valve covers back off and check the discharge ports for the injectors tomorrow.
My 03' Passat 1.8 won't start. It turns over and cranks. When I'm doing that, all the lights on the dash flash off and on (including hazards), the overhead light flashes and I can hear a click, click in the same time as the flashing. Seems like it must be some sort of electrical problem. Maybe a bad relay or fuse.
View 1 RepliesSo I have noticed a couple things about my stereo that puzzle me. I have the Dynaudio NAV system w/6 CD changer in the glove box.
1. I had the doors done with Dynamat and it definitely sounds better but the problem is that if I crank it I have to turn the Bass way down otherwise it distorts. Now correct me if I am wrong but shouldn't the amp and speakers be perfectly matched so this doesnt happen.
2. I have the AUX input button on, screen and I can select it but there is no jack in my glove box where all the literature says it is supposed to be. My VW/Audi service manager printed out a build sheet and it doesnt seem to be on there.
CEL light stays on for a few days, then will go off for a few, and vise versa. car doesn't run rough, but sometimes doesn't want to crank. can the purge valve cause that, and could it cause a misfire code? and how can i disconnect it, or what can i do to see if it will make a difference without the purge valve connected and working? BTW, what is a purge valve?
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 Passat 1.8 Auto. Last Saturday my wife drives the car and it cranks fine, but she called and said it wasn't shifting right. I didn't worry much because it has always shifted weird, but she said it would shift a time or two (she wasn't sure how many times) and then not shift. She got up to about 60 and no shifting. After a bit she said it seemed better. I went out to take it for a test drive and......it won't crank. Won't turn over at all; just a few clicks. Not sure if the no crank issue is related to the shifting problem, but I start narrowing down stuff.
No power to the solenoid when the key is turned to start (had to pull the freaking A/C compressor to check this!). Has power to the solenoid from the batt and I bumped it over quickly by jumping it across to make sure the starter is good. All good. The solenoid on the shifter is clicking as if it is working. Strange thing I noticed is it will come out of park "without" the brake pushed when the key is turned but not otherwise. Shifter stays locked when the key is in the off position. Cable is connected and appears to be working, I can hear it click in the ignition switch when I push the shifter button. Several relays click under the dash, but not sure if any of these control power going to the solenoid.
So......ignition switch? ECM?