My 99 Passat just recently developed a couple of oddments. When I use the key fob to lock the doors, the driver door button goes down then back up and alarms the car, but does not lock the front door. Then today I noticed it wasn't locking the drivers side rear door either. So, I have to manually push the button down on the rear door and the then use the key to lock the front. I've used both remotes so that's not the issue.
View 1 RepliesI brought a 99 Passat V6 with 46k miles and the car is now having problems with the driverside power door lock. I hit the remote to unlock the car but the door wont open. After several attempt, im able to open the door.
View 4 RepliesI can lock the doors with the key fob but it does not beep. The alarm sets, and the passenger doors all lock, but the drivers door does not. I have checked that all doors are closing properly, and the transmission is in park.
I also tried both key fobs with the same result. The alarm LED flashes about 6 times before glowing steady - is this a code of some sort?
I'm having some problems with the power windows and locks. The passenger side window only works when it wants to. The power lock on the same door will not lock unless I push it down. And the lights that are on the switches don't work.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
My Excursion recently had all of the door lock actuators replaced, but locking still wouldn't function correctly...everything works fine with both the fob and the door keypad, but when using the door switches it would only lock, not unlock.
I searched for three days trying to find where the door relays were because I knew my actuators were all good....I happened upon a thread on here where a user had my same issue and was asking about relays. Like me he was trying to find out where the relays were, but users kept wanting to tell him to do the foil quick fix on his actuators. Even after he specifically said he was sure it was NOT the actuators, posters kept telling him to focus on the actuators, that there were no relays other than internal to the VSM I think...he finally took it to the stealership and they told him they had replaced one of the power lock relays under the dashboard.
I searched the internet for a couple more days trying to find where those elusive relays were, and all I could find was a generic "under the dash" if even that much--most people kept wanting to point users to the actuators. So for any future readers who want to know where the door lock relays on a 2000 Excursion are located, there are three of them--one for "all doors lock", one for "all doors unlock", and one for "driver's door lock". They are buried in the dashboard, mounted to the firewall upside down behind the radio. The easiest access to them is from the floorboard to the right of the accelerator pedal.
You'll need to remove the knee panel under the steering wheel that covers the fuse box; then remove the rubbery lower wiring cover below it that's held in place by 3 or 4 pf the phillips head push-pins; then in the lower right of the opening where you removed the knee panel (look just above the accelerator pedal), find and remove the single gold 7mm screw that holds the driver's footwell air diverter in place, and remove the air diverter. Then lay on your back in the drivers floorboard and look up to where would be directly behind and just below the radio--you'll see a small (2"x6") rectangular black cover facing down that hides the relays, held on with a clip at each end. Pop the cover off, and you'll see the three relays. I'm not sure what order they are in. In my case, I was intending to make sure the relay was my problem by having what was functioning change when I swapped relays....apparently my problem was a poor connection on one of the relays because everything started working perfectly and has worked fine since.
My 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 truck's anti-lock braking system is not working properly. When I slow down for a stop my anti-lock brakes kick in every time for about 1 or 2 seconds. What can I do to stop this from happening.
View 2 RepliesI have had an engine code for some time claiming my auxiliary air pump is not working properly. My indy saw no obvious problem, but it could just be shot. He suggested I take it to the dealer. But from my understanding, that pump only works to achieve cleaner combustion when the engine is cold right after a start. I am tempted to continue ignoring it. Would I be making a mistake? I haven't noticed any power or mpg reduction.
I guess I can always take my car in for the under the hood seal recall and have them do a diagnostics too.
My key is stuck in my door and am trying to take it out. My Key wont rotate to the normal position to take the key out and its stuck and wont turn properly, it just jams up... Any tips to take the key out ?
View 5 RepliesMy car is a 01 b5.5 1.8t 5 sp manual transmission. it has 170xxx miles on it and for some reason, it won't start. last year I had some trouble with it where it would either start right up, or nothing at all, and it's doing it again, except now it just won't start at all. you turn the key, the battery engages, and all the electronics work (aside from the power windows, and sunroof), but there's not even an effort by the engine. it's like I didn't even turn the key. All last week, it was doing it, but I would just disconnect and reconnect the battery and it was fine. yesterday morning it just stopped trying. What could be the issue? it's really weird....also before this, I've been having a lot of trouble with once the cars been running for about 5 minutes or so, the power windows and sunroof decide to not work. but when I turn the car off and back on their fine. its odd. also, the alarm horn will honk randomly a single time. my electronics are all messed up
View 3 RepliesWhenever i leave work, i have to go in reverse to exit the parking lot. I noticed that the brakes are really ....mmm.....I am reversing and I press the brake to the bottom (it bottoms out very quick, not full lenght) and with it pressed at max the car barely stops. I almost hit the car that was parked on the other side..I freaked out cause I was at the bottom with the pedal and the car wasnt really stoping, so I pumped it up and it got harder and went lower to the bottom and it actually stoped and got responsive. I didnt notice that while going ahead from home, going forward. No issues whatsoever in normal driving. Pads are ok. Noticed that it is getting worse on hot days. Now I pump it up a few times before I even take out from park.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 passat w auto and tip it will only go into drive and reverse, the tip does nothing and it starts in 4th gear from a start. It works in reverse but I can move the shift lever into 1st or any other gear and it does nothing it wont down shift or the tip wont do anything I am at a loss, I heard it could be the TCM or a pressure selonoid in the tranny...
View 2 RepliesThis is what is happening:
1. When you start driving the car it accelerates fine until it gets to second gear where it keeps accelerating, then you feel a jolt, the odometer jumps 1-2 notches, and it switches into third.
2. When stopping it downshifts fine until second gear getting ready to switch into first to come to a complete stop and again it "jolts"
3. (Sometimes happens) When driving ~25 mph or ~40 mph while continuously accelerating you let-off the gas and then reapply, it stops accelerating and kind of "sputters" and can not accelerate anymore, I have to stop put it in Park and then again put it in Drive and only after that it works fine.
I have taken it to the VW Service and the mechanic could not replicate what I said was happening so I drove with him in the car and replicated the first two steps 3 out of 6 times. He told me that they checked the codes and could not find anything malfunctioning. I told him that clearly something was wrong with the transmission and I wanted something to be done. He agreed that he also felt what I was talking about but it was not enough to come to a conclusion to what was wrong. I mentioned that I wanted this to be written down in the service report, because if something happens they will be aware.
The problem now is that the "jolting" and the stalling-out has gotten worse since the visit to the service 1 month ago. What might be happening and what I need them to repair/change on my car. I am planning on making a visit sometime this week. The first two steps happen when the car is cold or when I switch over form Tip-Tronic to automatic. But that is not always the case.
I'm new to the passat side of vw vortex. i just bought a passat 1.8t. the car seems to have some kind of sensor problem. When i step on the gas to about 2000 rpm the car reaches the 2000 but dies out?? when they scanned the car on a scanner it said it needed a GPS sensor. the sensor doesn't come separate so I bought the entire throttle body which comes with a new sensor. and yet it still does the same thing. what could be the problem??
View 12 RepliesToday me and my son installed a new K&N air intake on his 98' passat 1.8t, everything looks good but when you start it up the engine does not idle properly and it now starting to smoke.. Also it is leaking some sort of black gunk out of the exhaust pipe, we didn't drive it but when you give it some gas it hardly accelerates.
View 4 RepliesI seem to be having a problem with my passenger side mirror and it's reverse function. I have a 2008 Passat Lux. I set the mirror reverse to 'on' in the MFD. I started the car, leave it in park and set up my seats and both mirrors. I press set and then 1 to memorize the positions and hear the chime. I then proceed to put the car into reverse, switch the remote mirror dial to 'R' and position it go down.
The problem I'm having is that the manual says that the passenger mirror will go to it's original set driving position if you go over 9mph (or something like that) or if you move the remote dial to something other then 'R'. But that's not the way it's working. It should ideally go back to the original position when you put the car in to drive (like my old 2002 Passat GLX did), but even when I drive off and go over the stated mph, the mirror doesn't go back to the driving position.
While I'm driving, I then turn the dial off the 'R' position, but it's still looking down....I honestly don't think that I set it incorrectly, but hopefully I am and I don't have to bring it in to service for just that. It's a convenient feature that I want to use. Don't want to curb rash my wheels by my sloppy parking or my wife's....
ok so a week ago. I started having this problem with the passenger rear door. so I hit the lock button either in the car or on the remote. and the lock will go down to lock but springs back up half way and doesn't lock or arm the alarm. now today the driver's door started doing the same thing. i checked the floor's and all the drains anything is wet nor has it ever been wet. this random problem just came out of nowhere and its driving me insane. i go to get out of the car when the key is pulled out of the ignition all the doors unlock but the drivers. so I slam my shoulder into the door.
View 1 RepliesI have noticed that when i am entering the car from the drivers side, after unlocking with the keypad, when i leave the door open for 30sec or so, the car will automatically lock back up. The door does not know its open.
View 2 RepliesIt only happens after being at sustained highway speeds for 45+ minutes. When exiting the highway, the transmission torque converter lock disengages with a jolt, usually around 30 MPH. Has happened every time I've done extended highway travel since the car hit 1000 miles. And more importantly, is there a dealer fix?
View 2 RepliesSo after the temperature drop .... Next day I opened the trunk to take out my ice scraper and It didn't closed! Warm up the car ... Full speed fans , fold down rear seats to get some heat in trunk area ... 30 min... And nothing. Sprayed some wd40... Nothing !
So I decided to take apart the latch .... Removed liner ...unplug motor unplug manual opener pull wire remove latch and put some white lithium grease... Then when I take it apart found the plastic little gear and internal was pretty dry no kind of any grease inside and it was stuck.
It didn't move so put some grease in all touching areas , gear and latch itself , twist it bunch of times until everything run smooth . Here is the picture of the all mechanism inside. Pretty simple... It's like a retractile pen like. Put everything back together and is working fine for now. Let's see if it work ok from now or I might be buying a replacement part, the new revision which it end in "D"...