Passat (B5) :: Secondary Air Pump Won't Working Properly
Jun 20, 2008
I have had an engine code for some time claiming my auxiliary air pump is not working properly. My indy saw no obvious problem, but it could just be shot. He suggested I take it to the dealer. But from my understanding, that pump only works to achieve cleaner combustion when the engine is cold right after a start. I am tempted to continue ignoring it. Would I be making a mistake? I haven't noticed any power or mpg reduction.
I guess I can always take my car in for the under the hood seal recall and have them do a diagnostics too.
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The secondary air pump on my 2001 went out the other day. The question that I have is it bad to drive with a bad pump?
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Looks like I have an issue with the Secondary Air Pump, but I am not sure where its located, where this is on the car?
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Ok so I accidentally broke the hose that connects the secondary air pump to the stock intake box and been looking around for a replacement. I have looked around and searched and searched and the only one I found is this one: [URL] .....
Will this work for a 2004 1.8T? I know it says that its for the 2000-01 but it looks exactly like the one that goes on mine. Haven't checked the dealer to see how much they want for it but it will most likely be an arm and a leg.
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I've got a 2004 1.8T 4motion passat and when it starts cold in the morning it makes a loud noise for a minute or so then it stops and is normal again, I'vev been told by a local autoparts store that it is possibly the auxiliary/secondary air pump that needs to be changed to fix this poblem. if it is the air pump how hard is it to change and do u need any special tooling to do it or is it fairly straight forward to change?
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How do you know if the inverter coolant pump/reservoir is bad after the recall was performed?Since it doesn't produce any codes but can reduce the electric-drive if getting too hot, how do you convince Toyota to give it a second look?
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Where the secondary air injection pump is? I'm getting P1411 & P1423 codes.
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My car is a 01 b5.5 1.8t 5 sp manual transmission. it has 170xxx miles on it and for some reason, it won't start. last year I had some trouble with it where it would either start right up, or nothing at all, and it's doing it again, except now it just won't start at all. you turn the key, the battery engages, and all the electronics work (aside from the power windows, and sunroof), but there's not even an effort by the engine. it's like I didn't even turn the key. All last week, it was doing it, but I would just disconnect and reconnect the battery and it was fine. yesterday morning it just stopped trying. What could be the issue? it's really weird....also before this, I've been having a lot of trouble with once the cars been running for about 5 minutes or so, the power windows and sunroof decide to not work. but when I turn the car off and back on their fine. its odd. also, the alarm horn will honk randomly a single time. my electronics are all messed up
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Whenever i leave work, i have to go in reverse to exit the parking lot. I noticed that the brakes are really ....mmm.....I am reversing and I press the brake to the bottom (it bottoms out very quick, not full lenght) and with it pressed at max the car barely stops. I almost hit the car that was parked on the other side..I freaked out cause I was at the bottom with the pedal and the car wasnt really stoping, so I pumped it up and it got harder and went lower to the bottom and it actually stoped and got responsive. I didnt notice that while going ahead from home, going forward. No issues whatsoever in normal driving. Pads are ok. Noticed that it is getting worse on hot days. Now I pump it up a few times before I even take out from park.
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I have a question? I have had my car parked for about 2 1/2 months and I just started it this weekend and I've always noticed on our cars when we start them in the morning I think it's the secondary air pump that turns on, it sounds like a blow dryer.. It only stays on for about 10 seconds maybe. Cause when I started my car this weekend I didn't hear come on.
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Started with the p0410 trouble code. Pump was seized, so replaced pump along with the check valve and hoses. Ran fine for about a day, then noticed pump was running when I passed by the vehicle. Unplugged it, plugged back in, and all seemed to be fixed. Now the check engine light back on, and again the pump stays running- vehicle turned off and key removed from ignition. Have to go borrow a code tester again, but what is causing the pump to stay running? I don't want this one to burn up. I need to get it smogged for my reg renewal asap before I get penalized for it being late. The guy who replaced the pump and did the unplugging thing just wants to reset the codes and try again. I'm thinking there is a more logical reason or a step he neglected to do when replacing the pump.
99 suburban LS 5.7l V8
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I have a beautiful 1996 Saab, 900s. Recently the check engine light came on and at Autozone they said the code was for the secondary air injection pump. I took it to a new mechanic, he checked it out and called me to say the pump itself was broken and would cost 1,000 to fix. I said that was a lot, and would think about it, and picked up my car.
Strangest thing- the check engine light is now off! Is this normal? And I just took the car in for the state inspection, it passed! I was under the impression a car without a working secondary air injection pump can't pass emissions. What is going on here??
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I have a PZEV (Partial zero emission vehicle) 2006 Focus. Recently, my car threw the check engine light. Looked at the two codes, found out it was for the secondary air system. I pulled the car apart, removed the pump, checked that the pump was indeed receiving 12v (checked with a multimeter) with ignition-on-engine-off. I couldn't feel, or hear, the pump spinning. Figuring it was the source of the problem (as opposed to a clogged hose), I replaced the relay, thinking that perhaps it was on its dying leg. That didn't work. I next replaced the pump, which also didn't work. I can't even hear or feel the new pump running with ignition-on-engine-off.
I "reset" the codes, or so I thought, by disconnecting my battery for quite a few minutes. During the first startup, the check engine light isn't on. Starting up again though later in the day, the light returns. The engine does run a bit rough when cold without the pump malfunctioning for the first few brief moments.
Is the pump supposed to be powered and running for the entire time ignition-on-engine-off (I assume so since it is receiving 12v). How loud should these guys be? I would have thought I would be able to feel the motor spinning or hear something....
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What is the solution to fix the secondary pump humming/vibration noise? I get this humming noise from my driver side center dash area and according to few other members, it's the secondary pump. Some dealer fixed it by moving it to the side a bit to stop the vibration.
My dealer told me that's false and it's normal to make that noise (never had this noise before) and if there is something wrong, VWoA will issue an TSB to fix it..
Well, they won't do anything until there is an TSB and I was wondering if it's a easy fix that i can do it myself??
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I brought a 99 Passat V6 with 46k miles and the car is now having problems with the driverside power door lock. I hit the remote to unlock the car but the door wont open. After several attempt, im able to open the door.
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Have a little oil on the outer part of the turbo and its making a raspy noise when my turbo is spoiled not sure whats going on the car pulls just as hard and boost levels are normal i had a check engine light on for a few days right after this started code was for p0411 dont think its related cause i know my secondary air pump whistles at cold start so im assuming that the code is for that and not related to the turbo.
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I recently had a check engine light come up on my 2004 r32. Dealer told me that the secondary air pump is broken and needs to be replaces, codes that came up were p1432, p1423, and p1411.
I replaced the pump and the next day I heard the "vacuum" sound of the air pump so I know that it works. A day later my check engine light come on again, and I cannot hear the pump anymore.
Now I just changed the pump, not even the rubbery inserts as I didn't know. The pipes seemed to be fine. I checked the quote from the dealer and they also mentioned that the intake pipe is broken, part number 1J0-131-128-AB.
Is that one of the pipes that is connected with the secondary air pump or it's the main intake pipe??? If it's from the main intake, is it possible that the secondary air pump want work because of that???
Should I change the rubbery inserts on the secondary air pump??? Is it safe to drive until I take care of this?
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I got a code for Fuel pump secondary circuit failure, how do you fix it? 1990 Aerostar 4.0 2wd with A/T and A/C
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I'm new to the passat side of vw vortex. i just bought a passat 1.8t. the car seems to have some kind of sensor problem. When i step on the gas to about 2000 rpm the car reaches the 2000 but dies out?? when they scanned the car on a scanner it said it needed a GPS sensor. the sensor doesn't come separate so I bought the entire throttle body which comes with a new sensor. and yet it still does the same thing. what could be the problem??
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I seem to be having a problem with my passenger side mirror and it's reverse function. I have a 2008 Passat Lux. I set the mirror reverse to 'on' in the MFD. I started the car, leave it in park and set up my seats and both mirrors. I press set and then 1 to memorize the positions and hear the chime. I then proceed to put the car into reverse, switch the remote mirror dial to 'R' and position it go down.
The problem I'm having is that the manual says that the passenger mirror will go to it's original set driving position if you go over 9mph (or something like that) or if you move the remote dial to something other then 'R'. But that's not the way it's working. It should ideally go back to the original position when you put the car in to drive (like my old 2002 Passat GLX did), but even when I drive off and go over the stated mph, the mirror doesn't go back to the driving position.
While I'm driving, I then turn the dial off the 'R' position, but it's still looking down....I honestly don't think that I set it incorrectly, but hopefully I am and I don't have to bring it in to service for just that. It's a convenient feature that I want to use. Don't want to curb rash my wheels by my sloppy parking or my wife's....
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I'm having some problems with the power windows and locks. The passenger side window only works when it wants to. The power lock on the same door will not lock unless I push it down. And the lights that are on the switches don't work.
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