Passat (B5) :: RPM Drop After Boost Meter Install
Jun 20, 2009
I just installed a Prosport Boost Meter in my automatic B5. Pics included of the vac line I spliced into and everything. The meter works perfectly fine (though I'm not boosting as much as I'd like ).
I've noticed a decrease in my idling RPM and when I let off the accelerator and come to a stop, my RPMS drop incredibly low, to about 600, and recover to my new normal idle of about 900.
Any explanation for this or things I should be worried about, or is that just the nature of the beast?
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I have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
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This has happened a few times now. First time at a stop light, and most recently while coming down a hill. All of my needles drop and I get no response from the engine, brakes and power steering work for a little while and then they cut out. I pull over to the side of the road, turn it off, sometimes it turns back on immediately, other times it will do the same thing needles go up and back down.
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I did a tune up on my 20th last week, plugs and coil packs and oil change. now i have a strange idle that it wasn't doing before. i checked all the plugs over again and they are gapped fine and i have no CE light on. Every now and then my RPM meter will jump down and then right back up, same with the boost meter at the same time. i had it looked at at the garage i go to and they said they cant seem to find anything wrong. What might be causing the rough idle? keep in mind this only started happening RIGHT after the tune up.
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I have a Chevy 2006 Malibu LT V6 and when i first got the car a year ago I had no problems. After a few months, I would fill up the tank up completely and then drive it around and stop at a stop light. The gas meter would drop from Full to Empty with the light coming on then reset itself. It happened sparingly so I thought nothing of it. Now just a few days ago I filled the tank up and now the gauge is staying at Full when I know for a fact that I do not have a full tank. Whenever I turn on the car, the gas gauge needle jumps from full to empty to half to full to quarter until ending at full. Lately, I've been trying to go off the fuel mileage on my radio but with that resetting to what my fuel gauge says I'm getting fearful of running out of gas.
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I installed a VF intake a few weeks back and noticed my car is peaking at around 14-15 PSI max according to my boost gauge, when it used to hit 17 peak. I'm not sure if I may have a leak nor have I checked it via vag-com.
It does feel a bit off, but for as far as I know the gauge could be messed up now.
Just wondering if there would be any immediate signs (sounds etc...) of whether there would be a leak, or what other problems may cause this.
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Removed the battery to install a boost gauge and came back to a christmas tree cluster. Not just the usual steering/EPC either. I can post the expanded scan but you can see a lot of things are affected, still drives fine however. Airbag fault and parking brake fault appear on MFD as well.
Thursday,07,May,2015,15:43:55:18277
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20150311
[Code] ...
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Just noticed today that I have a slight drop in boost. Normal boost is 1.5 bar but today it is running slightly lower boost and does not have the same pull through all the gears.
2001 mk4 1.9 tdi golf
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Was driving when I heard a pop n my boost dropped. Normally run 17 psi but my boost gauge is now only reading it's pushing 4psi. There is no smoke coming out my exhaust or anything, when I had it scanned it read it was a bad pressure sensor in the inter cooler so I replaced the sensor cleared the code took it for a drive n the same thing happened...check engine light came back on n still running like crap.
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The past few days ive been having some boost problems. Boost will surge to 15psi then drop to 0psi and continues on acceleration. Coming from work today I was unable to get past 5psi accelerating
Then on WOT the boost would spike to 23psi then down to zero. Checked all hoses i could see and reach to make sure they were connected.
Mods:
Forge 007 DV
ECS Race N75 Valve
Turboback Exhaust
Chipped
Short Ram Intake
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Looks like I get my polar FIS+ unit from kermaTDI tomorrow and after some looking around I haven't been able to find too much on the install process. Also what parameters are you monitoring? I am thinking boost, egt, battery v.
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Installed an RNS-510 in my 2006 Passat, and this morning, I could tell my battery was nearly completely drained. Also, I know the unit is receiving constant power because it never "boots up" even after leaving the car turned off for a while. Usually, it should completely shut off after the car is off for ~30 minutes.
I guess I need to update my CAN module. What is an updated CAN that will work, and where this is located on my 2006 Passat?
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Just installed HID retrofit kit into OEM projectors and a malfunction light came right out..! Is it possible to remove the CELL with VAG-COM..? If not, what would be the best way to do it.
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How do u remove and install the turn signals in the mirror?
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I've been experiencing this problem since I had the car but it gets me around fine and has been getting 30mpg; hasnt bothered me all that much but i'd really like to get the problem solved... A few months ago I hooked up a boost gauge and she would not boost beyond 2psi. Since then I've changed the air filter, spark plugs and found a wire that was un-plugged causing the engine light to stay on. Hooked up a scanner and no more codes.. But the car still doesnt pull the way I'd think it should and with a stop watch hits 60 in no less than 9 seconds (shouldn't it be around 8?). The WG actuator rod is free, but I disconnected that electronic control solonoid, drove the car hard and there was no change in performance or driveability! One thing I havent done is change the fuel filter so I'm thinking maybe it's in a limp mode and awaiting the fuel filter to be changed? But then wouldnt a code come on if this is the case?
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So I recently purchased a used Megan Racing 2.5" downpipe off a fellow Vortexer. Today I installed the downpipe and straight race pipe. After installing, my brother and I noticed a grayish smoke coming from the engine bay. Further looking revealed the smoke seems to be coming from the flex pipe mesh on the downpipe. What could be causing this??
Downpipe does not have a lot of mileage. No leaks. Brand new VW gasket was installed between the turbo and downpipe. Smell of smoke does not seem to be oil burning - seems more like a metal/gasket burning smell. Grayish color from what we could tell at night. Turbo still spools. No lights on dash.
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My wife hit a deer going 60MPH 3 hours from home. Go back up and pick up the car, it's down on power, I feel it surging on and off boost, hard to drive smooth. Roughly a half hour later I get a CEL. Don't have the code handy, but Boost limit Maximum exceeded. My local VW dealer says its a normal wear and tear item so Allstate will not cover it. The car had the radiator, radiator support, condenser, hood, bumper, grill, passenger fender, timing belt cover and timing belt replaced.
Allstate says not covered, like a flat tire, once I leave the shop, its like a flat tire on the road, nothing to do with the repair. BTW I had it repaired at an Allstate recommended PRO shop. I get it back tonight after 8 weeks of fooling around. Will need to check the actuator, hopefully it's bad. The turbo itself is good, boost fine, no smoke.
This is an 04 Passat 1.8T. I have had 14 cars with turbos, still have four and have never had a turbo go bad, full synthetic oil every 3K and 60 second cool down in hot weather.
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Is there any difference in boost between drive and manually shifting with a tiptronic? How about using sport mode?
I saw a video of a guy testing hist mkv with apr stage two and he reported that he was not getting full boost when manually shifting his dsg.
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Just got the car not to long ago and its not making any boost right now. the CEL is on and its throwing a code for a MAF sensor. what would be your first step to resolving this problem.
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I have a 2003 volkswagen passat, front wheel drive with a 1.8t. I was told that I could get more boost out of my turbo without having to do any major modifications. Is it possible or not. Because as it stands right now I am completely lost when it comes to this.
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So Im going to post a series of graphs of boost compared to rpms. I also did fueling and wastegate. Im having an issue with alot of boost flutter and sluggishness
Idle lambda is at -1.3
Partial lambda is at 13.5
Graph one showing specified and actual boost compared to rpm
Got rid of the crappy autozone special sunpro boost gauge and installed the newsouth that bill shipped me.
Only getting -10 vac at idle
Spiking and holding around 24-25 psi and then it barely drops at all but it holds at 24psi for a while which is kind of scary....
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