I have a 2001 1.8t tip wagon(75k) that that is starting to worry me. It makes a tapping sound (coming from back of valve cover) AFTER it is warmed up at idle. When the RPMs go over 1,000, the sound goes away. Is this the cam chain adjuster or tensioner??? Also, when the engine first starts up it makes a similar noise , only louder, for the first couple of seconds.
View 5 RepliesI just bought myself a 2003 F250 XLT with the V10 in it. Low miles, not beat, 6 speed, very happy with it. I noticed today that there was an inconsistent tapping coming from the passenger side valve cover. I searched online and was pointed towards the PCV baffle. I pulled the breather hose off and stuck my finger in the hole, and the baffle is indeed detached. Now I know that I need to pull the valve cover now to at least remove the baffle; is there anyway to reattach the baffle, or do I need to buy a new valve cover?
View 8 RepliesToday I did a oil change (70k). While under the car I notice a small leak from the back side of the engine. When I got home, I had the chance to remove the engine cover to investigate and clean the engine up a bit.
I found that the bolts in the rear of the valve cover had a little puddle of oil around them. I took a T-30 torque bit and was able to get a least a full turn on the rear bolts and about half turn on the middle ones. Fronts were about a quarter turn. Check your valve cover bolts.
I have a 99 passat 2.8 v6, that closing on 200k miles, and its a car i'd really like to keep, lately i've had a few leaks coming from valve cover gasket, which i replaced, and now from the front drivers cam, and the rear passenger cam, the smell is terrible and the smoke is worse, i clean out the pcv but its still happening, i talked to a mechanic he says with that many miles i should just do the timing belt and get the seals done.
View 19 RepliesYeah so on the way to the UCLA game last night, after the car warmed up, I started hearing a whoop sound coming from the back I thing. This is the second time I heard it doing this in the month I've owned it. It happened under some acceleration and sounded a bit like the beginning of a police siren. Not every time though.
View 3 RepliesI've had this tapping in my engine for a few weeks now and I put it in drive then heard a huge bang from the front of my engine and then started making a very loud popping noise that almost sounded like air leaving the valve cover...
View 2 RepliesI got a brand new 2011 Mazda 3 i Sport 4 door sedan in May and it's been great so far. Lately though, I have started to hear a sound coming from the back left hand side of the car. It really closely resembles the sound of tapping one's finger on a counter top. When I'm stopped, there's no noise but when I go I can hear it. As I go faster it goes faster as well and when I slow down it slows down. What is going on?
View 2 RepliesI've been noticing a tapping sound coming from the rear driver's side of the car recently, and it's only when idling after the car has warmed up. Someone has said that it may be the Leak Detection Pump located above the wheel well in the rear driver's side of the car. My question is does the tapping sound mean that it's going bad?
View 4 RepliesMy '01 F-150 2WD, XLT has a foghorn sound coming from the left front side at idle after the 4.6L is warmed up. It goes away with an increase in engine RPM and is unnoticeable at hwy speeds. I have no codes (I have checked w/ my code reader). The service desk guy at the stealer said it is my abs pump going bad (I figured it was a pump of some sort, my 55 packard PS makes the same noise when almost empty-the system leaks). It also appears this is a stealer only part, and going to cost 6 or 7 benjamins to buy and probably another 5 benjamins too fix.
View 4 RepliesAfter its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.
After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.
so I have a 2azfe engine
So there's an oil leak coming from the valve cover gasket (just purchased vehicle dirt cheap with 220k)
found this
Notice all the oil sitting on top of the exhaust mani gasket
In the left(lower) part of the picture it appears to be scraped.
the gasket appears to be newer, I did NOT use a screw driver to remove the valve cover, which is what this appears to have been done..
Can this be sanded down then filled with jb weld, and then regasketed?
New valve cover gasket on my 03 VR6 GTI, new plugs, oil filter and cooler seals, new gaskets on the intake manifold and when we started it up . . . .
[URL] .....
It runs rough.
EPC light is on.
Stall at idle.
Runs great at full throttle.
I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 with the 3.0L V6 & a 5-speed, with about 128k miles.
The car runs fine, but was leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold and so I recently had the valve cover gaskets replaced. the mechanic could not get replacement gaskets from Mazda, and so changed the valve covers themselves also, and consequently needed to replace a couple of hoses that connect to the valve covers.
Since the repair, the car drives fine - acceleration seems normal, I don't notice any performance issues. The CEL is NOT lit.
1) When the car is in neutral, but rolling, the idle consistently bounces back and forth precisely between 1250 & 1500 rpm. This occurs always, and happens whether the gearshift is in neutral or the clutch is depressed. With the radio off I can hear the engine surging when this is going on. As soon as the car comes to a complete stop, the idle immediately drops to the a rock-steady position just below 1000 rpm, as it always has.
2) I assume related to the above, but since the repair my gas mileage has dropped from its usual 18-19mpg to 15.7-15.9mpg as recorded at two fill-ups, and my current tankful is looking to return equally low mileage.
I brought the car back to the shop and the mechanic took the car out for a drive with me, with his computer hooked up while we drove. He found nothing wrong, nothing out of whack, and saw no evidence of any air leaks.
1) Seems strange to me that the valve cover gasket couldn't be obtained, and new valve covers were needed. I want to believe the garage is being straight with me. Is this really plausible?
2) What could cause the idle to behave this way? I understand what a valve cover does (in my earlier years I changed the cylinder head on my old Saturn) and can't figure out how or why changing the valve covers would have an effect like this.
That leads me to conclude this is more likely caused by the new, slightly different hoses attached to the valve cover, but I don't know exactly what those hoses do or why they connect to the valve covers, so I'm stuck here.
My girlfriends 06 Sonata 4cyl threw a p0011 code a week or so ago. I looked online and saw that it could be dirty oil so I immediately changed it (it was about 400 miles overdue at that point). I also looked on the forums here and was referred to a thread that suggested replacing the oil control valve. My girlfriend drove to work a few times before I fixed it (maybe a 100 miles total) and the car stalled out in the middle of an intersection. I then replaced the OCV and to my discontent the problem was still very present. Very loud knocking or clanking under the valve cover and sluggish idle. Her mechanic now says that it is a job for a hyundai dealership and that it could be something as bad as a head or engine rebuild. What the problem could be?
View 2 RepliesMy 1999 jeep grand Cherokee with 170000 miles with a straight line 6 cilinder has a knocking noise coming from the valve cover area. It is only present during a cold start and for about 2 to 3 minutes. Once it starts getting hot it stops. The engine runs fine it has lots of power and I do not have any other issues.
View 5 RepliesI want to have my oil cap sit close to the valve cover rather then have that long funnel.
I want to go from this:
To this:
I took it to the stealership to get the alternator and some vac. lines replaced all under an extended warranty. They informed me that both valve cover gaskets and right side cam adjuster gaskets are leaking. By no means am I a mechanic or close to but I am trying to get this stuff done as cheap as possible so I am going to try to tackle this myself.
View 3 RepliesSo, weird smell that I thought was burning plastic or rubber is actually hot oil leaking from the valve cover and tensioner gaskets.
My car is nearly 8 years old (2003), and has about 70K. Should I go ahead and buy a timing belt kit and replace all that stuff at the same time?
Well I popped the hood to clean my air filter and noticed that the top of the engine looked to sprayed with oil mainly on/around the front of the valve cover. I haven't really "investigated" to see where its coming from. Where it may be coming from!! It has 32,XXX miles and auto.
View 4 RepliesI noticed the oil smell that can be associated with a leaking Cam Tensioner Adjustor Seal from my 2003 1.8T Passat a few months ago. The dealer confirmed that it was leaking and that it was covered by my extended warranty since my car was 5 years old and at 70K miles. I had the work done and after I picked up the car I noticed that the oil level was at the top of the hashes not at the top bend like it was when I took it in.
I don't know what caused it to drop to the hashes but I do know that the level has dropped to 3 visible hashes in the little over 1K that has been put on the car since then. I am concerned because in it's first 70K miles the car did not visibly lose a drop of oil.
Any logical cause for this annoying trend, the only thing that changed was that the Cam Tensioner and Valve Cover Gaskets were replaced. Is it possible something else was messed up during the repair?
I have a 2007 passat and I have now changed 2 wheel bearings trying to find out what this noise is, when I am driving at 50+ mph I can hear like a echoing sound coming from the back left a lot sounds like its coming from the top left of rear view. I can't think what else it could b and I can't just keep replacing wheel bearings with genuine parts ....
View 8 Replies