Passat (B6) :: 2.0 Auto Thuds When Auto Downshifting After A Long Drive At Highways Speeds
Apr 15, 2008
My 07 AT 2.0 has a weird problem - when auto downshifting after a long drive at highways speeds, the whole car thuds. This happens after driving about 20 miles or so at 60MPH+. 5 or 10 miles are not a problem.
What happens is that when it slips down into 2nd, it sounds like something jams (no grinding). The force/feeling is similar to running into something at a slow speed - like bumping a car while parking.
If I slip into Tip and downshift manually, it doesn't happen. Outside of this the car has 22K miles and drives great.
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I was driving to work this morning on the highway and noticed my car was running at 3500 RPMs while I'm going 65... kind of odd, right? drop it into tiptronic, shows fourth, I shift up to 5th, and drop it back into "drive." A few seconds later I laid off the accelerator as the road started going downhill, and the car downshifted to 4th while I'm going 65... Back to tiptronic, shift up to 5th again, then shift back over to Drive.
I then accelerated a little as the road started going up hill, and the car downshifted AGAIN for no reason while I'm doing 70!!!! I wasn't laying on it at all either, very grandpa-like driving.... I've never driven an automatic car before, so maybe this is normal - but it doesn't seem normal. Once I got off the highway the car drove fine, but i dunno whats up. It's a v6 with 107k on it....
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I have 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed automatic. I have 10,500 miles on it and I have had this transmission issue since I got the car. At times, while accelerating onto highways the car does not downshift. The car stays in 3rd gear up until 4,000 RPM. I can shift it by putting it in sport mode and shifting manually. It only does it sometimes but it does not seem normal.
Took it for my 1st service visit dealer said no codes came up on the computer and maybe it needed to be broken in. Went for 2nd service dealer told me no codes and no problems. I then wrote a letter to Toyota under the lemon law since it had 2 failed attempts at fixing it. They contacted me and said this may be normal. I do not see how it is normal.
Is it because it is a four cylinder that it has these problems? Usually it shifts correctly but I feel there is a defect but they said the computer would have codes stating problems and it does not.
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I was driving around some very steep hilly highways recently. I have tried this in both cruise control and normal coasting.
I noticed that the Tiguan will automatically downshift when going down a steep enough incline and a certain higher speed is automatically reached. Whether that is based on what was set by your cruise control, or even when letting the car coast down by releasing the gas peddle, it will still reach a point of downshifting automatically.
What I hate about it though is that this downshifting causes the engine to suddenly rev very high RPMs. Its also pretty loud at that point. That's bad for the transmission system right?
Usually in automatic mode driving, gear shifts up at around 2,500 RPM (mostly around 2000 RPM point). But when you are going downhill in a steep incline, the Tiguan automatically goes to a lower gear causing the RPM to shoot right up. I've had mine go up to 4,000 RPM downhill and the engine screams and spins really fast as you can clearly hear. It of course does the job of keeping the car at a certain speed, but is this bad for the transmission?
I mean, I prefer pressing on the breaks to control speed downhill. Break pads are cheap and easily replaceable. Transmission strain and failure is a whole other business. So I would prefer the strain be placed on my breaks and not my transmission system for the purposes of controlling speeds downhill. The latter failure mode will be the case if they rely on the transmission to control speed downhill.
So what is a "happy RPM" for the engine anyway? What RPM is the 2.0T engine at its most efficient?
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Just bought this car and when I am on the highway I let off the gas and it automatically downshifts. no engine light or anything. and when I press the gas again it returns to the proper gear.
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Had problem with downshifting and up shifting quickly on its own and then engine light came on. 24,400 mi. Code P0713 Trans Temp Sensor "A" Circuit Input. They replaced it in a few hours and we will see how it goes. Had also had a problem of acceleration by its self when we first bought it and the gas mileage not being to par. Of course they said they haven't heard of that and they did an update/flash and haven't had that problem again, also had a broke front axle.
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2005 tundra sporadically misfires/sputters after slowing/downshifting (autotrans) to 2nd gear.....then when accelerator is kicked a bit the engine wants to spit/sputter like a misfire or flooding..... V8 engine by the way.
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I am in the midst of wiring up the Bold Sport kit that comes with the OEM mirror with build Rain/light sensor. It comes with a nicely made wiring harness with OEM terminals already installed. The kit can be found here for reference. [URL]
Right now I am following the directions from myturbodiesel.com [URL]
It instructs to add the power source to the fuse box. No problem. Says to add the RLS to fuse pin 17 and the Mirror power to pin 7.
Here is the diagram they show.
The problem is on my '13 Golf R, 17 is already taken. I can certainly add to a different pin on the same bus. So not really an issue there.
The other issue is that there is no power bus for pins 7-11 on my R. What gives? There is a power bus on pins 1-6 but they are all taken already.
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I just did a 2000 mile round trip in my treg...what an awesome highway vehicle. The air suspension is supposed to lower at speeds over 76 mph I believe. I was running at 85 to 90 most of the time. Any indication of the lowering in the display? I really couldn't tell if it was happening or not. Does it lower in all suspension modes, i.e comfort, auto etc? It didn't seem to raise upon slowing.
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220,000 miles, auto transmission slip in drive, reverse ok. What needs to be fixed and what will it cost?
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Is there a way to disable the auto 4 wheel drive on a 98 Explorer for testing purposes? I believe there is a module but can't remember where it's located and I don't know if it can be temporarily disabled.
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I recently bought a 2004 Mustang convertible V6 auto with 180K miles to be my daughter's first car. The car has a driveability issue. It has a "rumble-strip" like vibration at speeds between 35-55 mph. This is when accelerating or decelerating. If I slip the car in neutral when driving the vibration is gone. Here is what I have done: new plugs, wires, coil. New u-joints. Front end needed a new tie rod end on right side, new transmission filter and fluid (only replacing lost pan fluid). Another thing wrong with the car (possibly related?) is that the ABS & traction control lights are stuck on indicating a system failure with the ABS.
Note that when replacing the ujoints I noted a couple of things:1- there is SOME amount of play at the transmission tailshaft bushing. It seemed excessive to me, but a local transmission shop told me that if it is not leaking fluid that it is not a problem. I did not gage the movement, but it was close to 1/16".2 - The other thing I noticed is that the universal joint for the rear yoke was a little bit stiff, meaning that it did not move as easily as I would have thought that it should. This was the case with both the old rear u-joint and the new, This indicates to me that the pinion trunnion ears are not perfectly aligned, but not sure what I should expect.
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I just did a motor swap on a 2003 with 3.5 auto tranny and awd. engine runs great and every thing is running fine. Only problem is that the trans will not create any power. With no drive shafts on it still wont move the splines. With that said the trans was driving/running great b4 the swap.
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So I drive a 79' f-150 and my truck when I take left turns, start on a steeper incline or give it too much gas my automatic transmission tries to jump from drive to neutral. This only happens initially; if I'm on the free way and at a higher rate of speed it doesn't do this but it seems like when I give it any more than a little gas it tries to jump into neutral (it has once) it doesn't or hasn't really done this on right turns I don't know if that makes sense or not.
Why it may be doing this and if so what I might be able to do about it? I do have a book for my truck and I have done some small things but I don't really know a whole lot.
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Daughter driving truck truck quits moving, I get there no drive and no reverse, has low and 2nd manually.
drive truck home, flush trans and cooler, road test all ok. this was 3 weeks ago.
This morning did it to here again, no drive and no reverse, she drove it home using manual low and 2nd.
I get in and when put into drive it feels like it tries but doesn't go all in, same with reverse. pulled it into low and vola I now have drive and reverse again
I'm thinking a we may have a bad or going bad shift solenoid. What I need to know is, is any of the solenoid valves on when in reverse are they the same as when in drive?
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Have an 02 Auto with the 2.7, 4wheel drive, and it doesn't shift into 5th gear. Can go through the 4 gears with the manual shift, but when just in drive, only shifts up to 4th. At 65mph, RPM's over 2500.
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For a few months now I have been hearing a tap clunk type noise coming from under the car when I shift the auto trans into drive and reverse. Also sometimes when the car is slowing when driving I hear the tap sound as it shifts into first. I drove in by my local dealer and they listened to it and said Elantra transmissions can get noisy there is nothing wrong. They told me I have plenty of Warranty left so if something happens I will be covered.
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My F350 4x4 won't go into 4 wheel drive unless I get out and take them out of auto and put them in locked position and when I have it in lock mode it seams to work like it's in auto mode, when I put the switch on the dash in 2wd, it seams like it's only driving the back wheels....
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My 2006 3.6 awd has developed a propensity to roughly downshift when braking at higher speeds particularly on inclines. The VW shop cannot replicate the problem, but a tech is driving the car for a few days. What might be the cause of this?
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Just notice this in the manual page 302 The vehicle should not be driven in 4x4 high or low with the lock hubs set to auto as this condition may damage driveline system components.
Page 303 It then goes on to say !!
Automatic operation of the hub locks is recommended and will increase fuel economy.
when using 4x4 once in awhile LOCK or AUTO
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When driving the car in either sport or tiptronic mode, the car refuses to shift into 4th gear at WOT. In Drive, this doesn't appear to be an issue as the engine doesn't rach the rev limiter/redline. Is this a fail-safe to protect the transmission?
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