Passat (B6) :: 2008 Wagon - Intermittent Hatch Button Hesitation
Aug 25, 2010
Every once in awhile - very intermittently - when I press the close hatch button on the tailgate of my 08 Passat Wagon V6 4mo, it starts down and stops. I have to make myself watch it because more than once I have gotten in and started off. I only notice when I look in the rearview mirror and notice the unobstructed view. It seems to happen most often the first time I use it in a day but that is not consistent.
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Always used the button to close it, and nothing particularly different happened last time my wife shut it... now it just makes a groan for a second or two, the TOP of the hatch pops out about a quarter inch (bottom doesn't move at all), and nothing else happens.
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A few weeks back I had problems getting the hatch to close on my wagon w/ the power button, then it started working again. Today, tried to close the hatch w/ the button and nothing happened. It opens fine from the buttons on the key fob, driver's door and hatch, it just won't close. Is it most likely the button that needs to be replaced or something else?
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I've been looking at the wagon for about a month now, but I am not too sure it has enough space in the rear to accomodate 2 convertible kid seats and a baby seat in the middle.
The Phaeton probably has a ton more space in the rear for that setup, but haven't really test driven one yet, but I am sure its a dream. The good thing is that the Phaeton is certified too and about a couple grand cheaper, even though it is used.
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Our 2.0T (2008 Passat Komfort Wagon) with 70K miles is sitting in a mall parking lot and won't turn over. The lights and accessories all function just fine, and don't change/benefit from a battery jump. DRLs and all dash indicators light up like normal.
We push in the key fob and absolutely nothing happens. No error messages or anything. I tried a half dozen times; no change. Two things to know:
1) The car is under a recall for defective Electronic Steering Column Lock. I understand this can invoke the immobilizer? Car does seem immobilized. (I hadn't gotten the car in for the recall.)
2) The car recently ran rough and threw an Emissions system code. I hadn't gotten that code read, yet, but the roughness sorted itself out. I think this is unrelated and may be a case of "car wash syndrome" as my wife and son occasionally run the car for a minute or less to move it from the driveway to the street.
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I'm a newbie who just took ownership of a 1982 turbo wagon. It's been sitting a while but started right up and ran well for about 20 miles until it began stumbling on acceleration.
The car starts easily and runs smoothly until it gets hot and then it suffers severe hesitation and stumbling. Occasionally it will stall but starts right up again. It has never failed to restart immediately.
On a cool day, it will run smoothly for thirty minutes or more before the problem begins. On a hot day, the problem begins in five minutes.
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My new 2008 2.0T Passat wagon, Lux version has a 20" L x 5" W x 1.5" D space on the inside of the rear hatch behind the license plate with two knobs that you turn to open it. The covering door is hinged and it looks like it might be a space to put something because there are four plastic clips that might be there to retain something. Cannot find any reference to it in the owners manual.
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Vehicle: 1995 960 wagon
Background: Exhibits intermittent no-start behavior in both warm and cold weather, wet and dry weather, having sat overnight, or only sitting a few minutes. Turns over fine, but won't start. Sunday, it started fine several times, went to Home Depot, wouldn't start. Called a friend to pick me up. When he was almost there, I tried it again and it started back fine. Been in shop a few times, they played around with a few electrical connections, battery cables and grounds to injectors. Also replaced fuel pump. I have not verified if it is a fuel or spark problem, I just bought a FI fuel pressure gauge last night.
Once started, it does fine. It never stalls or cuts out. That is why I am leaning toward a CPS (that's what jeep people call it.) Sometimes, under the slow cranking speed (relative to idle) the signal is too weak to be useful. However, during idle and normal operation, the flywheel is moving fast enough that the signal is much stronger (being a magnetic pickup). Thus, the reason it only happens during starting, not during running.
Here's my current working theory: Bad crank position sensor (is that Volvo people call it?)
This is the only part I can think of that would cause this. A fuel pump problem would probably show up during running. I think the pump also receives a signal from the cam sensor, so if that sensor were the problem, it would happen during running too, not just starting. It the cam sensor an optical sensor? Shouldn't cause it to not start, although it might cause a difficult start.
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I have myself a hatch stuck shut on my wagon. Wont open with the button and the key doesn't turn. The key fob was actually broken when I bought the car leading me to believe it happened while he tried to unlock the stuck hatch.
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Does button on the drivers door open your hatch. Mine does not. Just wondering if this was normal.
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Rear hatch lock not responding to fob button, nor in-door switch.
If there is a fuse, I don't see it on the fuse map. Does stick open imprecisely when using the emblem, but little tricky. Where/which fuse?
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I've had a Prius (2nd generation) since 2006 and have been thrilled with it.
So today, I purchased a Prius V (three, I believe). Very happy with it in general so far, but incredibly disappointed to discover that some of the features I have most enjoyed about my 2nd generation don't seem to come with my version of the Prius V.
On my Prius (2nd), I can unlock the hatch (and all other doors) simply by depressing the rectangular button with the key FOB in my pocket. That does *not* work on my Prius V and everything in the manual and what I can find online says that it *should* work.
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I've been having an issue with my hatch not opening the first several times I press the unlock button on the remote. For reference it's the car door unlock button I'm pressing, not the hatch one as that one has never done anything when I've pressed it.
I thought it was due to the faulty rear view camera I had installed (the emblem pops out) but I just got a new one installed 2 days ago and it's doing the same thing. It's gotten so bad I've had to go open the drivers door and press unlock from inside there to get it open.
I'm wondering if there is a problem with the latch getting stuck or something. I've never had it not close all the way or anything like that which I hear is more common than the issue I'm having. I will take a pic of the pin in the trunk that I'm talking about.
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I just had my treg serviced. One of the tsb's performed was the remote antenna fix. Range is much improved but one problem; the center button on the key remote which used to open the rear hatch doesn't work anymore. Now when pressed, the lights flash and the hatch does not open. I checked the comfort settings and they are still set at unlock doors and hatch.
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Just picked up a 2005 and the hatch glass will not open. Tried everything that I have read on here and on ClubTouareg. It has to be the fuse or something. Pressing the button on the remote does nothing and neither does the switch on the driver's side door.
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I have a 2000 Alero GLS V6 with 215K miles. The car has been experiencing intermittent throttle issues where it will hesitate slightly. Immediately after this hesitation the trac control trio of lights come on. I don't think this is the bearing as there is no wheel noise to accompany this. Also the trac control lights don't remain on when you start the car the next time. If this hesitation occurs when using the cruise the cruise control will be disengaged.
I also scanned the car and pulled a P0341 and P0440 code. (cam sensor and evap). These codes have existed for the last two yrs long before the throttle hesitation issue has cropped up so I don't think it is related.
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My '98 Tacoma automatic has had a intermittent hesitation for 5 months. I've had it to 3 mechanics who cannot get it to hesitate when they are driving it. I left it for 2 nights at the last auto shop and let them drive it when it's cold and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. It hesitated 3 times this afternoon as I was driving it home from the shop.
Everybody has told me to wait until it gets worse to bring it back to be fixed. I have a new catalytic converter, o2 sensor, fuel filter and none of that has worked. The check engine light has come on briefly once, but went off before I could get it diagnosed. What I can do to get it diagnosed and fixed before I get stranded somewhere?
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When driving, no matter what the speed we get intermittent hesitation from the engine. Usually lasts less than 30 seconds. Today lasted 7 miles. Doesn't matter how long I've been driving. Does it whether the car is cold or warmed up. Was told the engine air filter needs cleaning. What this could be?
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2003 E300. For a while I have experienced intermittent hesitation and I just put up with it as it was only a bit annoying. It has since worsened to a lot of hesitation and lurching, to the point where, at times, I'm concerned about stalling out and/or getting rear-ended. I took it to my dealer. They installed and ECU update. However, that did not solve the problem. The service manager said that it is an "inherent condition" and it is operating as designed.
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I have a 2005 XC90, 2.5T with about 210K miles.
The issue began while driving at about 70mph on the highway. The car acted like it was running out of gas, skipping and hesitating. After getting off the highway the issue persisted. Accelerating from a stop caused the car to once again act like it was running out of gas sputtering and lurching. The CEL came on and it stalled once before getting to an AutoZone. The codes came back as P2177 (too lean off idle bank 1) and P0089 (fuel pressure regulator).
I limped home and parked the car for a few days to check out my options. After a few days the car drove perfectly with no issues. But the issue returned the same as before within a few more days. So here's what I've done thus far....
1. Replaced the fuel pressure sensor (no change)
2. Replaced spark plugs (no change)
3. Replaced fuel filter (car ran perfectly for a few weeks, self clearing the CEL)
4. Ran some Seafoam cleaner through a tank of gas (car continued to run fine)
5. A few days ago the issue returns, same as before
6. Cleaned MAF (no change)
After replacing the fuel filter and running the Seafoam it ran great. Then all of a sudden it's doing the exact same thing again.
I've scoured the web for more info but come up empty handed. My thoughts now lean toward the following...
1. Leak in the turbo system or TCV issue
2. Bad injector(s)
3. Bad coil(s)
4. Failing fuel pump
5. Random O2 sensor freaking out
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So I have had my 02' Camry for a little over a year. Love the car, it is a 2.4L SE with a 5-speed manual. Recently it has developed this mystery misfire/hesitation under a load and at idle with the AC on. I replaced the plugs with OEM Toyota Iridium and it seemed to clear it up for about a month, but now has come back. If I start the car and turn on the AC it will intermittently start to miss but not only when the compressor is engaged and it does it every now and then under a load specifically in 4th or 5th gear under a load with lower RPM's (under 2000).
The check engine light is not on and hasn't as much as even flashed on at any time so there must not be any hard misfire codes. I want to stop by Autozone and see if they will scan it to find any stored codes but haven't had time. I would think that if it was a coil pack that it would be a hard misfire. I'm stumped. This car is in great condition...no oil leaks, interior is near perfect (replaced a worn shift knob, and door panel pieces around the window switch). Also car has 160k miles.
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