Issues with either a CEL for evap emissions gross leak or a constant Gas Cap Light popping up...? My dealer says its probably some part of the purge system, possibly the purge valve or charcoal canister... How the system works and what parts are major players?
View 8 RepliesHad a constant CEL two week ago, the car was shaking because the misfire. I went to an european auto shop, it ended up with replacing the intake manifold valve and charged me $700. They explained the valve could not be closed, and that caused a misfire(s). There were three fault codes on report.
This week, I got another constant CEL. I went to the shop and they charged me $50 for scanning the code. and told me it is a misfire on Cylinder 2. there is no fault on intake manifold valve. They dont fix that for free. I went back home and open the engine cover. The ignition coil 2 was replaced. Now, I really doubt if they replaced my valve or not. maybe just changed the coil and reset the alarm.
I have swapped coil 2 and coil 3 to see if the fault follows the coil. How can I verify if they replaced my manifold valve?
2002 V6 2.8L Passat 4mo wagon, I have 113K on my car, after changed timing belt I have been fixing oil leaks constantly. Not sure that these are related, but, co-incidental. These are not cheap to fix, so ... Having oil leak issues with this engine? Should I just keep fixing these until it finally dies?
View 24 RepliesI have had my B7 for about 6 Months now and love the car except that the car sounds worse than my MK4 and the B6 that it replaced. I have solved most of the rattles and queaks and cracks but as soon as I fix them a week later I have 5 new ones. I have attempted to fix them using different sizes of felt pads after a few trips to the dealer and the fix kits did not work.
View 17 RepliesSo i had a burning oil smell for 2 years. I finally brought it to the shop and had the valve cover gasket changed as well as the chain tensioner gasket. I now have a constant burn smell. It cannot be burn off because when i open the hood i see it dripping on the cat. converter i just cannot see from where. I seems to be right behind the heat shield that covers the edge of the valvle cover. What else could be wrong here?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2000 Passat 1.8T and I am having a weird "harmonic" (for lack of a better word) vibration that is constant from start up to shut down, I just had the motor mounts replaced and the chain tensor replaced, I have 125K the car. Tires are new as of April and I have had this issue long before then. I have also noticed randomly the idle goes kind of physco for a few seconds here and there - not sure if the two are related.
View 2 RepliesI have a dry metal on metal squawk noise when I reverse, I have taken it to a VW dealer, and they say "there is nothing wrong", or that they "cannot find anything". The noise is not constant, just when I apply the brakes in reverse.
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2003 Passat GLX, 43000 miles, V6, AWD. I've noticed recently that when driving at constant speed the engine will surge about once every second or two. It's very regular, and on a smooth road I can also notice a bump in the drive train, very similar to road bumps.
I've taken it to a dealer, since I believe it is a transmission issue, and therefor covered under warranty. There are no computer codes stored for faults in the transmission, they've said. However, they started by pursuing the fuel injection system (though no code was stored), and then wanted to fix a faulty coolant sensor (since found not to be faulty).
I am new and just picked up a used 2008 Passat yesterday. It has 42k miles and what I had thought in perfect condition. I wanted to see what was going on before I took it into the dealership to get repaired. When driving I hear a constant whine / (like water is on in a house) type noise. Its noticeable all the time except when the brake is fully applied. It comes back once the brake is depressed and in park. I thought at first maybe it was just a brake pad rubbing but the constant noise in Park confirms its something else.
View 2 RepliesRecently it feels like the transmission is 'hunting' drops a gear, picks up a gear when driving constant speed on flat roads. 2.0T with tiptronic. Additionally, very intermittent, the car will get a shimmy around 48-50 mph. feels more transmission related and it is not the tires since it is an intermittent issue.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS, and it has a constant airbag light on in the dash. I have zip-tied the connectors underneath the driver and passenger side to ensure they are not loose. I took apart the center console and unplugged, replugged the airbag module, and the connector close to the gear shift. The two fuses in the fuse panel beneath the storage compartment to the left are good. I am at a block. I can't think of anything else to check, and the shop wants $90 to diagnose the problem. I've also left the battery off overnight to see if that would kwor. Still nothing.
View 7 RepliesI have this annoying vibration that starts at 85-90 mph and stays relatively constant above that, but doesn't get super intense or feel like the car is going to fall apart. Its a light vibration that I can feel at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel.
Background: So about 6 months ago I realized my CV boot was torn. I tried to replace CV joint, but they sent wrong joint(Meyle) so we ended up trying to force it onto the CV shaft for like an hour before giving up. I remember one of my BMW Technician buddies literally smashing the joint onto the shaft with a plastic mallet but it just wouldn't go over the circlip.
We ended up just replacing the boot and putting the old CV joint back on, but we didn't have any extra grease to put in it because we had already put it into the new joint that wouldn't fit. Since then I've basically tried everything I can think of, including:
-Balanced and Road Forced
-Laser Alignment
-Replaced all 4 tires
-Fixed bent rims
-Refreshed suspension/steering:
-All new F+R LCA bushings
-New inner/outer tie rods
-New ball joints
-New sway bar bushings
-New strut top mounts
So what the hell is keeping her from being smooth as butter over 90? Did we screw up the shaft by beating on it? Or is it just vibrating from the lack of grease/damage from torn boot? Was I supposed to align the shaft when putting it back on or something?
I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done: Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).
Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Oil is showing good on the dipstick. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the temp gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on every time it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but its probably been a little over a month. I went from 5w-20 Pennzoil, to 5w-30; wix filter. I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester....
Our 99 Passat Wagon has had an issue with its sunroof for a little while. It sounds like it's REALLY making an effort to close and open. The entire car shudders a little when the sunroof is being opened or closed. The tilt feature also has a problem. When the sunroof starts to tilt up, the leading edge of the glass pulls back a bit leaving a small gap between the glass and the roof recess. Nothing new there, it's supposed to do that.
However, when it reaches the top of the tilt mode, the glass VIOLENTLY slams into the edge of the roof recess as if it was spring loaded. Not a pretty sight, it sounds horrible and I wonder sometimes if the glass can keep taking it.
We've had the car since it was new and it's never been in an accident. I'm thinking that the sunroof needs to be taken apart, cleaned, lubed up properly and put back together.
But before I do all of that, is there something else that I should check first? It almost feels like it jumped the track at one time and never seated properly.
The front spoiler on my wagon keeps popping out of place slightly. It's on the passenger side just above the fog lamp. If I press it in, it snaps into place, but pops out after some driving. Does it snap into place all around? Any quick diy to keep it in place?
View 6 RepliesSo when the car is idling(warmed up) I suddenly have a random popping noise coming from the front passenger side of the car. It is about 9 pops evenly spaced about every 1/2 second and then it stops. This is all while not moving....Like when sitting at a light. Then about 5 minutes later it will do it again. It seems its becoming more & more frequent.
View 8 RepliesNothing is more annoying to me than constant rattles and noises in a vehicle. My 2012 Limited Elantra makes a couple of noises that are really annoying. The first is a constant light rattle the seems to come from the dome light area or the sunroof. I haven't been able to pinpoint it, but it drives me nuts. The other noise comes from the back doors area, or maybe the pillars. It happens on both sides, but mostly on the drivers side, and it only happens when the car goes over certain bumps, or when I take a curve a certain way. It almost sounds like a cracking noise. I've heard of glove compartment rattles, but that doesn't seem to happen with my car.
View 87 RepliesPopping coming from their driver seat? It mostly "pops" when I apply the brakes coming to a full stop or sometimes after I stopped and accelerate, the seat back pops. It's intermittent and I'm afraid the dealership cannot replicate the problem when I take it in.
View 1 RepliesJust picked up a 2001 GLX wagon and it is something my 93 did -- when opening the sunroof all the way, it makes a "popping" noise. With my last car, it was from something that snapped rendering it useless.
View 2 RepliesSo I'm coming from the MK5, MK6, & CC/B6 Passat world. On those cars, they were notorious for having the front subframe "clunk" noise. The suframe would shift back & forth, creating a "clunk." This was VW's fix: [URL] ....
Anyways....I've noticed this about 5 times now I'm on my '13 Passat V6.....when I go to back up into a parking spot. And that's the ONLY time it's done it too.
Going from Drive, I put it into Reverse and then turn the wheel a little (NOT even all the way) and hear a "pop" or creak/clunk....definitely from the front. So my guess is that it's the subframe shifting. Only 400 miles on the car too, btw.
I just purchased an 06 passat 2.0t with 59,000 miles on it. It has the 2 yr /24k mile warranty I've had it about a week.
Today I noticed something odd. The car is in motion, in an overdrive gear, idling (about 1500 rpm). When I push the accelerator lightly, I feel a very faint "pop" or "click" in both feet on the floorboard and can hear a faint click noise as the RPM increases. This happens at any speed, but is more noticable at higher speeds. Again, it is still hardly noticeable at all.
What concerns me is that it is a repeatable condition. Is this something I should worry about now or perhaps wait and see how it develops before worrying about it? It should be noted that there is no gear change when this happens.