Just got the car back from dealer due to Engine Malfunction Light came on. They said they updated some software. Problem on the intake or something like that. But the display on the gear number disappeared. I phoned the dealer and they said that it's normal and cannot be fixed because of the update. It has 33km and so far no problems.
View 3 RepliesJust installed HID retrofit kit into OEM projectors and a malfunction light came right out..! Is it possible to remove the CELL with VAG-COM..? If not, what would be the best way to do it.
View 10 RepliesThe Malfunction Indicator Light on my 03 VW Passat 1.8T just came on last night. After doing some research online I noticed that there seems to be some issues with the coil packs on the 1.8's. Any other issues that this light is linked to?? And is the coil packs still very hard to get?
View 1 RepliesCar is running fine.. I cant tell any changes in the car at all. Going to the dealer to get fixed and also make them fix my darn headliner that has supposedly been on backorder for 3 months now.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 B5.5 Passat and the Malfunction Indicator Light went off. I went to Autozone for a diagnostic and received the error code:
PO243- Turbo/Sup Wastegate solenoid A malfunction
I did a search but was unable to find out what this is.
I have been to the dealer 3 times so far because of something to do with the lighting system. The MFD says "AFS Inoperative" and the indicator light flashes for bulb failure or malfunction in the adaptive front lights system.
The dealer has replaced a bulb and power module thus far, but it hasn't fixed the malfunction. The indicator light and warning comes on 4 out of 5 times I drive the car and usually within the first few minutes of driving. It occurs with our without the lights on.
The lights do work at all times, but I don't think the adaptive steering/lighting is working when the error occurs.
I have an 07 Passat Wagon. The headlight malfunction indicator light came on for my passenger side low beam. I replaced the bulb, which was visibly burn out (broken filament), but with a new bulb in, the light still is not working and the malfunction indicator is still on. What is the cause of this? I have the regular headlamps, not the xenon lights.
View 2 RepliesThis morning, I tried to start the 2003 Prius and got a 'check engine' light and nothing. The cabin lights were bright so the 12V looked OK. After three tries, I used the VOM and measured 12.55 V on the battery. But the traction battery level looked unusually low.
So I tried again and it started. Using the ScanGauge, no codes were displayed. So I turned the car off and on three times and cleared the "check engine" light. Then I connected the Auto Ingenuity and read out:
P1636 - HV ECU Malfunction on the HV ECU to ECM bus.
C1213 - HV ECU Communication Circuit Malfunction between HV ECU and Brake ECU
P3002 - HV ECU Communication Malfunction on the HV ECU to Battery ECU
So it looks like there was an HV ECU problem that 'cleared while testing.' Certainly it makes sense to inspect the HV ECU connectors and re-seat them and clean out any debris.
My engine malfunction light has come on.
View 7 RepliesMy 2008 Honda Accord 's dashboard Engine Malfunction Light got lit. I have driven a further 4 kilometers and stopped at a lube station and found that oil level is a little low.
Did an engine flush and refilled with synthetic oil. The MFL light is gone after a minute of starting and it stayed out.
Now the problem that I am facing is poor gas mileage. I can literally see the fuel guage going down while driving . A full tank now gets me around 200 KM rather than 550-600 which I usually get.
Google search suggested an ECU reset. Is this safe ? or should the car need to go to the service station?
Bought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
Yesterday, I was driving home in EV mode, PHEV on, about 80°F, no hills, not accelerating, SOC about 4 bars, about 1/2 mile out, when it dropped out of EV mode, and then I got the red triangle and the check engine light. Today I grabbed the code with an OBD2 reader, and got this:
Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P0A92.
2. Engine Coolant Temp - 138.20 °F.
3. Engine RPM - 1,888.00 Rpm.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 14.91 Mph.
5. Intake Air Temperature - 96.80 °F.
6. Time Since Engine Start - 101 Sec.
7. # Warm-ups since DTC Cleared - 74.
8. Distance since DTC Cleared - 706.50 Mi.
9. Control Module Voltage - 13.69 V.
10. Ambient Air Temperature - 80.60 °F.
11. Accelerator Pedal Position D - 30.98 %.
12. Accelerator Pedal Position E - 46.67 %.
13. Time since DTC Cleared - 30 Hr32sec.
Does this happen because it's in EV mode? Do I just have to put up with it every so often? (This is the second time it happened.)
So this little gem of an SUV has been good enough to me over the year that I have had it, but it is one of those used vehicles that has me scared to look underneath cause there is always something a miss.
I have been having some power problems and the OBD check engine light has been coming on. The engine like to putter like if it's not getting enough fuel from a clogged fuel filter when it gets going, hot or cold. Have confirmed that the fuel pump is with proper voltage and pressure. Though haven't noticed a big difference with the new filter. The check engine light cycles a code of 21, which is refinanced to the O2 sensor, both upstream and down stream. That tells me that there are TWO O2 sensors for this model. And research has confirmed this. One ahead of the cat and one behind the cat.
Here's the kicker, I only have one O2 sensor at the head of the cat and the location of where the second one would be located is only a solid section of pipe from cat to muffler. I haven't been able to track down the plug connection for the second sensor and these codes and problem only came after I gave the Jeep a tune up.
1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited V8
The check engine light on my 1997 Integra (LS, 119K miles) has come on for the second time. Including background below.
Incident #1: Carin mid-June, the car sputtered or shook a bit when starting and the check engine light came on.The car had been sitting in the garage only about a day. Codes were P0303 (Cyl 3), 0304 (Cyl 4), P1399 (multiple misfire), P1300 (random Cyl misfiring). The p0303 code set at 1600 rpm & at 75F degrees. Misfire code set during warm-up. The shop performed block test (came negative). Compression tests show 1, 2, 4 at 200 psi & 3 at 190 psi. The shop replaced spark plugs & inspected plug wires & connectors as well. Valve clearance adjustments also were done. The shop cleared the engine light code.
Incident #2: Last week (early Aug), the car again sputtered & shook when trying to start (had been sitting in the garage for about 2.5 days). Showed signs of low or dead battery but started after cranking a few times. The check engine light came on again. Codes (checked at home using the jump method) indicate Cyl 1 & 3 misfire.
Will be taking to the shop for the diagnosis again but wondering if it is battery or ignition related; shop doesn't suspect the battery, however, I do sense that the battery 'feels' weak esp. when starting. New battery put in May. What could be going on?
2010 Sonata GL Sport at 122,000 kms (75,800 miles)
Engine Malfunction Light came on solid. Using ODBII reader, my Honda mechanic friend read the codes to be
P0106 Current, Pending, Permanent - Faulty Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
P0304 Pending - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
He replaced MAP sensor and Coil pack. But the Engine Light remains on solid. Now its only giving code P0106 which kind of points back to MAP sensor.
Spark plugs has never been replaced so I've been suggesting to replace it anyways proactively.
Questions:
1. What else may be causing the Engine Light?
2. When do Spark Plugs typically get replaced?
I own a 2005 prius. It is stock and i recently had the check engine light pop up as well as "problem" when car was started and 2 lights with exclamation point, one on a car and ones in lil brackets. I believe it is called a "hybrid malfunction light". Well one day they all pop up and about 3 days later theyre gone. Only thing i did was fill up the tank, when they came on only 1 bar was left on the tank. My question is should i still take it in to see whats wrong with it? and what could of caused both lights to come on?
View 1 RepliesI am having a “Check Engine” light problem on a stock 06, 4 cylinder Jeep Wrangler with manual transmission. A local highly regarded independent mechanic has had it in his shop 3 or 4 times for more than a day each time. On the first visit he replaced a purge solenoid valve and reset the light. It stayed off for more than 400 miles and then relit. He went over it and checked the wires and connections and reset the light. Again it stayed off for some time and then relit. He has checked the Jeep site.
After the last visit he suggested I drive it and see if it would reset itself as it had been doing in the past. It did reset itself twice but it only stayed off for 10 miles the first time and 2 the second. The code indicates an electrical problem and he is now planning to drop the fuel tank and check the wires and sensors there. The next step may be an ECM transplant. This is only an emission system problem and the mechanic says it is OK to drive. We do not have emission inspections here. How important is it to fix the problem?
When starting my T-Reg leaving work yesterday, the yellow exhaust malfunction light (located in the rpm guauge -- it looks like an engine but the manual refers to it as an exhaust malfunction) came on and would blink now and then and remain on.
I proceeded to drive home and the entire ride was choppy and the engine was hesitant and misfiring. When I arrived home, I turned the Reg of and then back on again and the light never came on. I drove it around the block and it was fine.
We have been experiencing tremendous cold weather in the Northeast (-20 to -30 with the wind chill). Reg started fine this morning, no light. Was this a function of the computer resetting itself?
I have a 2006 Sonata. My check engine light came on and also my ESC light. My car does not accelerate. It takes literally about 40 seconds to get up to 20 miles an hour. I called the hyundai 800 number and they said there is a recall for a "stop lamp switch malfunction".
View 3 RepliesI have a '98 For Ranger. After 256,000 miles, I recently had a new (rebuilt) motor put in my truck. After about 2 days of driving with the new engine, the Check Engine light came on. I went to Auto Zone and had the codes checked, and these two codes came up:
"Misfire monitor malfunction"
"Oxygen circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 1"
The guy at Auto Zone couldn't tell me what they meant. Is this something serious that needs to be checked out immediately or have anything to do with the new motor that was put in?
'95 LeSabre, 250K, runs great. Check engine light on randomly and signs point to a computer malfunction causing the light to come on. Is it true that only a dealership can replace the computer, not an indy mechanic? How much for the repair? Will it run ok w/o a new computer?
View 6 Replies