Passat (B6) :: Losing Power After Putting Straight Pipe
Nov 27, 2010
I have a B6 passat --- left the cat alone which comes off the turbo but cut out the "mid muffler" or scrubber right before the sensor and prior to the mufflers.
Noticed no turbo lag --- car seems fast and much smoother across the power band BUT doesn't give me that kick anymore. Must I flash the computer as well?
My engineering friend said that since the air flow is now faster than the engine runs hotter and ill prob stress the engine and burn out my cat much quicker... comments!?
Also do I need to put in a diverter pipe to satisfy the sensor --- so far no check engine but I dread the day...
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I have a 4 inch MBRP turbo back straight pipe and I hear a lot of other 6.0 that sound much louder.
just curious as to why that may be?
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I have a v10 F250 and I just put on a single chamber flowmaster that sounds really good but I would like the truck to be louder. My question is are there any negative effects on the truck if i get rid of the cat and run a straight pipe?
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I have a 2002 Passat 1.8T. It has been acting funny for a couple weeks now. It seems to be missing, then last night I took off from a four way stop and the engine light started to blink and the car was loosing power and not really taking any throttle. I managed to get it into a parking lot then I popped the hood and first noticed the inside of the turbo was lit up bright red. Now I dont know if this was cause from me trying to throttle it to get into the parking lot while it was loosing power or if my problem is the turbo or maybe an exhaust issue. I hooked up the diagnostic tool and the only thing read was P0303 for cylinder 3 so I dont know if the misfire was from the loosing power or if this is my issue.
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I have a passat B5 2.3 VR5 with aircondition and I have been thinking about to build a climatronic system in the car I did have a climatronic in my old passat B5 V6 TDI and I was so happy about it, The refit part are not the hardest thing, but what about the wiring part? do people rebuild their own wiring system, or is there made a wire kit to the climatronic system.
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I've always felt the steering of our Passat a little loose on the highway. By loose I mean I start turning it and there's a tiny 'delay' until the wheels respond. Today for a few times I felt like I had to do some minor corrections to keep the car straight on the lane. Nothing major, but something I can definitely feel, specially when compared with our A4. I was wondering if others noticed the same.
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I drive a 1998 B5 1.8T passat. This happens when i go up a hill, i mean i can go up the hill fine but then when I go straight my rpms go crazy before changing gears, idk if this is normal but I doubt it.
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I have a 2014 passat. The battery went dead and I had someone come out and recharge it and it did fine. However, the engine light is still on. I have left the car running for approximately 20 minutes in an effort to charge the battery, which it has, but the light that is shaped like an engine is still on. Does this need to go back to the dealership to fix?
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I have a 2001 Volkswagen passat glx and last week I jumped in and hit the clutch and it fell straight to the floor with no resistance and i barely touched it.... What this means and if i can fix it myself instead of taking it to the dealership ?
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On my 2006 Passat, the steering wheel is not aligned (at 12 o'clock) when I'm driving straight. It is roughly at 11 o'clock position, maybe a little less. The dealership claims this will be solved with a front end wheel alignment. The car drives straight as an arrow with hands off the steering wheel so I tend to wonder.
Will a wheel alignment fix this? Or could it be something else?
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My car has a little bit of a shimmy between 65 and 80, can feel it more when changing lanes slowly, after 80 slows down to almost nothing and by 100 is gone. Road force and high speed balanced, new set of tires (Mich. PS2) still does it. One more detail, the steering wheels is slightly tilted to the left when driving straight, anything to do with this? I'm suspecting the rotors too, but I only have 3,400 miles on my car.
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I am the owner of a PASSAT 2.0 Tfsi (2007 year) . Few days ago the pipe from the air condition froze suddenly.
After a few minutes the ice melt down and the air condition was ok again!
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car has 63k on her, bought it and end up having the fuel lines replaced b/c of a faulty line. they checked the whole fuel system ect...now its going through coolant, never over heats, nothing is wrong else where...just going through coolant and having some whitish smoke out of the tail pipes. 2006 2.0t
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Over the past 2 years have had oil burning from tail pipe after idling for a while. Now has gotten very bad. 98 Passat with 1.8t, no mods. Was told that turbo is bad and to make sure I should disconnect inter cooler pipe and see if oil is in pipe. Sure enough there was some oil that came out of the inter cooler. If it is just the turbo I need to buy a larger one and exhaust.
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I would I have a 01 7.3 e350 with 111k miles. I drove the van a couple of days ago.it sat for 2 days and now it wont go past 30mph.the van shakes crazy and went when i hit the petal no power with smoke coming out the tail pipe sometimes. When I shut the van off and restart it to drive it,it sounds better. I changed the fuel filter with motorcraft and changed the oil. Here is the kicker. It ran good after I changed the fuel filter the whole day and now its 4th of july and I went to get some drinks and it happened again.
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I have a ton of white smoke coming from my exhaust pipe only after it ran a long time then is started back up ????
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- handbrake = parking brake foot thing - the thing that applies rear wheel brakes when stationary;
- manual = stick-shift etc.
- service brake = normal foot brake/big middle pedal
Driving scenario: Short pauses, quick lights etc - no problem, the car is held on the normal brake and the drive knows I have my foot on the brake so shuts all drive down.
Discussion point here - at lights, longer pause in heavy traffic, level/railway crossing etc. The sort of pause where you want to take your feet off the pedals and wait.
With a manual I would put the car in neutral, apply the handbrake and wait. Then when moving again, car into gear, hand brake off balanced with clutch bite and accelerator.
The car was left in drive all the time & knew if the handbrake was applied not to try and engage forward torque/ride clutches etc. Never needed neutral on the Audi multitronic.
With Prius III when I pull up, if I leave the car in drive and apply the handbrake, then take my foot off the service brake the power modes display shows the car putting torque through the drive train - i.e. battery->motor->wheels & you can feel it pulling slightly in creep mode against the handbrake.
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I have a 2002 V6 Passat Wagon. I am hemorrhaging coolant out of my lower coolant pipe. I can reach it put my finger in a feel the coolant coming out as fast as I pour it in. I can't see any way to get at the pipe from the top and I can't see the hose that should be attached there from the top. I assume this means the front end will need to be jacked up and go at it from the bottom. Also note the intake and return from the heater in my car is mexi fixed and looped together (no heat).
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I have a 2000 Passat with the 2.8L engine. The flexible pipe which is part of the catalytic converter is leaking and the only way to replace it is to replace the catalytic converter. VW refused to assist with the repairs because the car has 96000 mi on it. Emission warranty is 8/80000. How I can replace only the flexible pipe without the cat. because it's still good.
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So the flexpipe on my exhaust is cracked and completely broken, so my passat sounds like a Mack truck. I've been looking into getting it fixed and I've been told i need to buy an entire new down pipe. Should i attempt to just get it fixed or buy a new down pipe.
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Are there more parts that i would have to get when putting in new injectors in my 2000 f250?
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