Passat (B6) :: Multiple Warning Lights - Trans Stuck In 3rd Gear
Jun 15, 2011
I was driving and the red BRAKE came on flashing and it beeped. Then the message came on saying Emergency Brake Failure - See Manual. Then the Emergency Brake light came on. Next the Antislip light came on. After a few miles another light came on - ESL or something like that. Then the ABS started kicking in almost every time I stepped on the brake. Later the trans stuck in 3rd gear.
Wouldn't upshift or downshift - even in TIP mode. I took it to the dealer the next day and they couldn't find anything wrong, so they gave it back to me and said to call baco or bring it in if it does it again. Then a week later it did the same thing except getting stuck in 3rd. Took it back again. This time the Emergency brake light was still on. They have had it since yesterday and still can't find anything wrong.
I suggested looking for a bad ground connection somewhere. They say they have done that. Battery is original but starts just fine. Also suggested battery cables.
It's a '07 B6 Wagon - 3.6L TIP ....
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I just got a call from my dad about his Passat, and am doing some research for him. He said that on his way home just now, the warning buzzer sounded, and that the 'brake' light, ABS light, traction control light and oil light all came on simultaneously. He was stuck in traffic, so couldn't pull over immediately... after about 10-15 seconds, they went off again. It then repeated once or twice for a few seconds later on the drive.
I've just done a bit of searching, but it is hard to know what to search for in this case. I did see some threads about a defective ABS module triggering the ABS and Brake lights, as well as a bad brake light switch (don't know if that has been replaced on this car yet). But that doesn't cover the Oil and ASR lights as far as I know. Any other possibilities?
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A friend of my brother swapped an auto trans OUT of his 98 passat (2.8 L) WITH a trans code EZZ and now its stuck in 3rd and in safe mode... What could be the cause??
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I have a 2006 Prius with approximately 112,000 miles. It has been a merely perfect car until yesterday. Everything was driving normal on my way to the store. When I turned on my car to leave the store a half hour later, the red exclamation point of death showed up along with the check engine light, ((!)) and the VSC signal all came on. Upon reading on this site, I decided to run the 12V battery test through the nav screen and sure enough, I believed that is what it was. I bought a battery and had it put in. I left the shop and and all the dash warning lights went off. When I restarted my car 10 minutes later to head back to work, all of those exact warning lights came on.
I ended up taking it into the Toyota Dealership Service area. They tried to reset the dash warning lights by pulling out the battery fuse (I think that's what they are called) in the front box of the car. It didn't work so they gave me the option to pay for the diagnostic ($98) or leave and drive around and hope everything is fine. I wanted peace of mind, so I had them do the diagnostic.
The assistant service manager came back 1.5 hours later and told me he had bad news. He said that there were faulty cells in my hybrid battery, which is why the service lights remained on. I almost started crying, sharing that I had thoroughly researched the prius before buying and that this forum, specifically had almost no talk of this...that is rarely if ever happened, that it needed to be replaced. He said in his 15 years at Toyota he had only seen it a couple of times. He told me warnings to look out for is if my car won't go above 25 miles an hour or it could technically start using only the gas side of the engine. He also said that the car just needs to "relearn" how to operate after replacing the 12v battery and it could essentially be fine.
He then quoted me $3500 if I ended up down the road of needing the battery replaced.
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My 2006 prius started beeping and showing multiple warning lights - The big triangle with the exlamation, Brake System Warning light and Check Engine light on the dashboard. On the main screen the hybrid system warning icon popped up.
I asked from a toyota service place and they said this might be due to multiple reasons (they didn't mention exact reasons) and will cost a lot of money. I've been checking some posts and found some advice regarding the inverter cooler. I checked the coolant container for "waves" as instructed by this post Suddenly hit with multiple warning lights! | PriusChat.
I can see the coolant moving when I turn the car on. What other reasons that can cause this issue?
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I drive my 2005 Prius 40+ miles each way for my commute. I bought it in the fall of 2007 with 56k miles already on it, and with my commute I'm up to 140,000 miles already.
This morning I was about 5 minutes from work, cruise control on, and deeply absorbed in listening to a podcast. I was startled out of my reverie by several things happening simultaneously. The car beeped, the cruise control kicked off, and multiple warning lights lit up on the dash, with a warning icon of some kind also on my MFD.
(Once stopped, I looked up the warning lights. They were: Master warning light; Check engine light, or "malfunction indicator lamp", according to the manual; YELLOW Brake system warning; VSC warning light. On the MFD, the Hybrid System Warning Light was on.)
I was on the highway doing about 70 and I had just crested a hill, so I allowed the car to coast on the downside while trying to access the situation. I cautiously pressed the accelerator, and though the road noise made it impossible to hear the engine, the car seemed to still be driving normally. The Energy Monitor still showed normal flows between battery, engine, and wheels. I had one final, short uphill climb before my freeway exit, so I chanced it. I took it easy and allowed my speed to decrease on the uphill so as not to push too hard, just in case. Once off the freeway, most of the remaining mile is downhill or flat - I can often make it to the office without the engine, and in fact I did so this morning.
Once at the office, I put the car into Park and grabbed the manual so I could identify all the warning lights before powering off the car. I turned off the Prius, let it sit for 5-10 seconds, and powered it back on. The brake system warning and VSC lights did not come back on - only the master warning light, and "check engine" lights reappeared, and "Problem" on the MFD was again replaced by the Hybrid System Warning icon. After the usual 10 seconds, the engine started normally and responded to the accelerator.
One additional note: After the freeway exit, my car is usually at 1 green bar or just below on the hybrid battery. Immediately following the freeway exit is a steep downhill that usually puts the SOC to completely full. That was the case again today, and as often happens, that full charge was able to take me the rest of the relatively flat, distance to the office at my usual 25-35 mph. I mention this because whatever might be setting off the warnings, the Prius still seems to be managing the charge level normally; at least in the admittedly short period I was able to observe it after this occurred.
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I had noticed a drop in MPG in the last month (more than normal this time of year), so I started searching on PC. That lead me to testing my 12V battery 4 days ago, with the following results:
No load: 11.8V
Load: 11.5V
Charge: 14.2V
Car started and ran fine, but since the battery is the original on my 2006 with just under 130,000 miles on it, I figured I'd get a new 12V the next time there was a good deal at Advance Auto. No other symptoms until today. After driving around 150 miles on Saturday, the car sat for 3-1/2 days in 25-40 degree temperatures. Started and ran fine today. Did a 5 mile trip, followed by a 1/2 mile trip, followed by a 5 mile trip home.
On the way home, the car lit up like a Christmas tree (appropriate for this time of year). Master warning light, brake system light (yellow; not red), check engine light, VSC light, hybrid system light (no ABS light). Turned it off and restarted and the VSC wasn't lit, but everything else still was.
More info... I finally got around to disabling the back-up beep, and the driver side seat belt warning yesterday, which may have run the 12V down even more.
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I have a 2005 Prius that financed from a small dealer last year. Currently has over 140k miles on it. When I bought it it had the Red Triangle and it worked fine until recently (about 2 months ago). Recently I've been having some problems. When I go at higher speeds I get the following sings come on:
1. Red Triangle
3. Orange check engine light
2. Orange (Symbol)CHECK - Malfunction Indicator Lamp
3. Orange (!) - Brake Warning Light
4. Orange VSC - Vehicle Stability Control Warning Light
When these lights are on, my AC stops blowing cold air. Sometimes when all these lights are on, the car will slow down and will not let me go past 37 MPH I have to then pull over turn the car off and then on, then the lights turn off and I can drive normal, on short trips that is.
Recently on a longer trip over 50 miles or so all the lights I mentioned came on plus the red break light on the left turned on with a continuous beep. We pulled off the HWY and turned the car off then on and the lights disappeared except for the big red Triangle that one is always on. We continued driving it but it kept doing it so we had to let it rest for over 30 minutes. We had to take it really slow and we finally got to our destination.
Codes P08A3 and P0A37 Prius 2005....
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The check engine light came on a few times. Went to the old trusty repair shop and the codes pointed to an issue with the catalytic converter. When we started the car again, multiple warning dash lights came on: ABS, (!), Check Engine, and emergency brake light. The brakes also felt very stiff after this.
The mechanic at the shop was taken aback. Said there was a glitch with the computer and that we needed to take it to a dealership to have them "perform initialization of linear solenoid valve and calibration." He said that would fix the issue with the lights.
We were a little upset this happened but love this shop and only stopped going because we moved a few hours away. The mechanic has always been very honest and upfront through the years.
I took the car to the local Toyota dealership today, told them what happened and what the mechanic said. All they did was charge me $100 for a diagnosis of bad catalytic converter pipe and tell me that all the lights came on because the catalytic converter is so far gone. They said they couldn't turn the other lights off until the catalytic converter was replaced.
I don't understand why my brakes are affected when the issue with the car is the catalytic converter. I was also told by the guy at the shop where we first took the car that we would be able to drive with a faulty Catalytic converter with no problem.
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2009 Prius w/ 29,750 mi [Maint Req Light came on at ~28,000 mi]..
I am getting a Master Warning Light (triangle), a Hybrid System Warning icon, a VSC light, a (red) Brake Warning icon and a Check Engine icon. When the car starts, the A/C is fine but quickly loses cooling output especially with full throttle. regardless of manual or auto setting. Throttle feels a bit spongy and slightly unresponsive.
4 blue bars on charge and everything else appears OK.
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Weird problems with my 2006 prius. Car has 54,000 miles.
4 times now over the last year, during abnormal braking conditions (someone swerves over at me on highway and I have to break and swerve suddenly to avoid), I get multiple warning lights, and the warning buzzer. Yesterday this happened, and I got the red triangle, the red brake light, the abs light, and two new lights on the LCD display I've never seen before. I pulled over and began to slow down. The brakes felt stiff, and the vehicle started to loose acceleration power. LCD started resetting itself. I stopped the car, turned it off, and turned it back on to find everything normal. I then drove 200+ miles to my destination without incident.
This is the worst case of this problem yet. My 12v battery was replaced last year after the first of these issues, with similar symptoms, but no loss of acceleration. The tech said the only code in the system was a voltage spike, and thus thought it needed a new battery. In every other case of the problem, I turn the car off and turn it back on, and it's fine. I'm about to drive 2000 miles next week, and want to avoid further issues...
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I most recently drove my 2006 Prius around on Saturday Feb. 1, with no problems at all. I went out of town for a couple of days, and returned this afternoon to a car that will not start. I stepped on the brake, pushed Power, and things lit up, the "Ready" light flashed a few times but then went off. Power button light stayed orange.
Several warning lights on dash stayed on (!)/ABS/VSC/traction control, and a message came on the screen saying something about a problem with "P" parking, and that it should be parked level and the parking brake applied. It is sitting level with the parking brake applied already. Also, the door ajar warning light and beep start as soon as you open the car door to get in.
I'm thinking from what I've read that my 12v battery has died/is dying. I'm the original owner, bought car in March 2006, and it has just under 61,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2011 Elantra 1.8 automatic Gls with 133k miles. While driving approximately 70 miles per hour the car downshifted to fourth gear, and would not shift up or down. I drove the car home and found that this is called "lump mode". I checked the codes, and found P0880 tcm voltage input. I replaced the fluid temperature sensor and harness, and checked continuity through the harness. I found no problems in the harness from the tcm to the solenoid connector. I then purchased a matching tcm, but the problem persisted. If the battery cable is left off for several days the problem will disappear until the car warms up.
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I have a 09 f 150 4wd that i took in for a trans flush, the electrical bulkhead connector on the rear of the trans appeared to be leaking so i got the replacement part and asked the service shop to throw that in if possible. Two valve bodies were partially removed and the said part was still not accessible. i said No!!! put it back together and do the flush! s
So the flush was done (by a ford tech) and now the back up lights, rear parking aid, and rear view camera are all out of commission!
It has been in the shop for 2 days now and the flush was done a second time for whatever reason, now it wont come out of third gear. the shop owner called me to say i bought the wrong filter... I don't have the part number handy but i got it from oreilly. they say it is the filter for the 6r80 trans with the 21 bolt pan. does that sound right?
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe, has 99,000 miles 3.5L. After changing the alternator (alternator did die and drained my battery, the shop recharged the battery) now it seems be stuck in 3rd gear and does not wont to shift (it is a automatic). Fluids are good, transmission was flushed between 50-60,000 miles.
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Bought truck for cheaper price with no 3rd gear. Went to a reputable yard and picked up a cheaper trans... It was carfaxed with 185K miles and in a rollover. (This is the last time I try to save a couple bucks by getting a cheaper transmission.)
I believe trans is stuck in 3rd gear...Takes off slow. RPMs do not drop..Doesn't shift...Feels like I'm in 3rd from takeoff. Here are the codes:
P2262: Turbo / Super Charger Boost Pressure Not Detected Mechanical
P2614: Camshaft position signal output circuit / open
P2262 again
P1000 On board diagnostics II Monitor / drive cycle test not complete
P0678 Cylinder 8 glow plug circuit
P0672 cylinder 2 glow plug circuit
P0603 Internal control module keep alive memory malfunction
P0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit
B1676 Battery pack voltage out of range
B1318 Battery voltage low
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I have a 1999 F250 4-wheel drive with a 6-speed tranny. The tranny is several old but has only around 100k on a rebuild. Three times recently it has stuck in 6th gear (overdrive) and I had to get really rough with the stick to get to come out. Afterwards the stick felt "thick" for a while and eventually everything seems to go back to normal. Not for sure but it may have started after pulling a heavy load, around 16k, which is not unusual for the truck. Other than the times it stuck and shortly after, the tranny seems perfect.
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My fog lights were working perfectly but I got the dumb idea that I wanted to turn them yellow. I bought some Hella Yellowstar 55w bulbs and installed them. Fogs worked for a couple of hours then I noticed that they wouldn't turn on. I replaced the 15A fuse and once again it worked fine for a couple of hours before I blew another fuse. Now every time I replace the fuse it blows as soon as I switch the fogs on. Was I correct in thinking that 55w was the wattage of the stock lights? Also I understand that you're not supposed to touch the bulb itself as oil on your fingers will heat up once the light is on and cause this problem. Tomorrow I am going to reinstall the stock bulbs and replace the fuse again and see if they work.
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2015 F250 with 6r140 Transmission. I have 13 K miles on my truck. While pulling my Travel trailer up a hill the transmission kicks down thru the gears, which is fine, but as I crest the hill and in 2nd gear, the engine begins to rev up and the speed increases, the transmission will not automatically go into 3rd gear. I have tried to let up on the gas pedal, but it remains stuck in 2nd gear. I have to shift to manual and then put it in 3rd gear. Then it shifts up as it should. I have tried with the transmission in "TOW' and not in "TOW". I have even tried it in "Cruise Control". Ford dealership ran tests but could find no problem. However it was road tested without the trailer.
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I own a 2002 W8 passat b5.5 that had issues from the used car dealer i had bought it from. I had 2 new motors installed over the period of about 13 months . The first motor had a bad torque converter and seemed to also cause my trans to slip. I am not sure if that is the direct cause of the trans slip going from 2nd to 3rd gear. The second motor dropped 4 valves in the cylinder "3" and cracked the starter. I had all the work done by the VW dealer that i used to work at.
As of today i seem to hear a knocking from idle to 5,000rpms, which is the highest ill push it. Now I know that a lot of of the W8 had issues with the torque converters. my current engine has just about 4k miles on it and I know vw warranties this motor up to 12k miles. That is not my concern, my concern is why do these motors keep failing under normal every day use in my particular vehicle?
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I finished installing an auto out of a 1999 beetle into my 2000 golf. I used the beetle TCM now it wont shift out of 3rd. If I manually start in first it will shift up to 3rd but nothing past 3rd. I had it scanned with a generic scanner and these are the codes. P1780, P1783, P0725. I researched the heck out of this and I'm not sure what to do. Do I need to take it and have a vag com hooked up to make sure the ecm and the new tcm are talking? It seems others have had these issues and I thought it might be solenoids but that's not what's coming up.
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