Passat (B6) :: Rough Idle / Stuttering And Stalling At Stop Lights
May 26, 2013
My vehicle has started to idle very rough, stuttering and almost dies at stop lights. It hesitates when accelerating, and really shakes and rattles if the AC is turned on. The check engine light and EPC lights are on. And even letting the foot off the brake in drive causes it to jerk along. I am up around 65k miles and have not had too many issues other than a fuel pump getting replaced last year. (the dealer first started replacing and charging me for many other items) I am scared to go back without trying to trouble shoot it myself.
What it could be and if there is anything I can try to correct it myself?
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I have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
I had my catalytic converter and flex pipe replaced this summer. Lately, my car has been idling rough. While stuck in some horrific stop and go traffic three weeks ago, it started to make noises as if it would stall out. It didn't, but it still sometimes makes those noises.
The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
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2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
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For the past month or so, my 2002 Kia Sedona has been stalling/dying whenever I stop at lights or signs. We've gotten the alternator fixed, gotten a new battery, replaced the ignition coils, but still have the same problem. A friend of mine says that there is probably an issue with the idle air control valve and suggests I replace it. Looking online, it seems like I can possibly just clean it out, but I don't know where to begin. Where exactly is the IAC valve and is replacing/cleaning it a basic DIY job?
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My 2006 Avalon Limited idles rough at times (at stop lights). Should I get a fuel system cleaning done? It has 52k miles and has probably not been done in the past. Would a fuel system cleaning work with rough idle? Can I do this myself or do I need to take it to the dealer?
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My 2011 Elantra has a slightly rough idle at stop lights. It doesn't happen ever time, and some people probably wouldn't even notice it, but at every few/several stops it idles a bit rough. When I recently had it in to Hyundai service for the ECM update, I asked them to take a look at it. Of course, they couldn't replicate it at the time, so they couldn't do anything to address it directly. The service manager asked if it happens when the A/C is on or off. While I didn't know the answer at the time, it seems to happen with it both on or off. He did say that the ECM update may address/fix the issue, but unfortunately it didn't. While it's not a big problem, it's a minor annoyance I'd like to get fixed (as I need to enjoy my ride at all times.
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I have a 2008 Accent. Yesterday the check engine light started to blink and the car started stuttering and the idle was rough. I've changed the air filter, which worked. But, it was recommended that I change the fuel filter. But, when I went to the parts store, they say that this model has a fuel strainer instead. What is that and where is it on my car? Is it easy to replace?
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Car is an automatic 1.8T and has a rough idle when the car is in DRIVE and I am in a full stop. Car also idles rough when in park. Not sure if it is an idle valve stabilizer, or a coilpack? Car does drive well once in motion and does not feel like it lacks power.
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After 90K miles of using Castrol 5W30 dyno and changing it every 3-3.5K miles , I have just changed to 0W40 Mobil Synthetic. I have a 2002 Passat V6 automatic tip . I am hoping to have a smoother idle at stop lights .
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Last week I was changing the oil on my wife's 2004 Camry (130 000 kms). I noticed quite a LOT of corrosion around the positive and negative battery terminals.. so I decided to clean them.
I removed the negative without any problems but I could not get the positive off. I decided to use a hammer to move the connector back and forth. I was surprised with how much force I had to use to break the connector free.
Once I replaced the oil I tried to start the car but it would not start. I check the voltage and I was down to 10 volts. Obviously I had damaged the battery in getting the positive terminal off. A quick ride to the auto parts store and I had a new battery.
I installed the battery and took the car out for a spin. The car drives normally but it will NOT idle after it has been warmed up. If I come to a stop sign, the car will idle low and stall.
I have already verified that the battery is at full charge and the battery is being charged when the engine is running. No 'Check Engine' light has come on.
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My car has suddenly started stalling a lot. I can get it to start right up if I put the clutch to the floor and it will idle fine until I start coming up of the clutch even while it in neutral. At times it will idle in neutral then start to idle rough and stall. I can drive it in reverse but can't drive it forward except in first if i keep the clutch at a certain point and not release it all the way. However when I try other gears sometimes it's like it does't want to go stalls. What it might be?
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09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
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Bought a used 2003 Explorer 4X4 that runs like crap.... All I know is it has new upper and lower radiator hoses, new battery, new brakes, 2 new tires and new belts... suspension seems great and body is nice too. It obviously needed a new radiator and complete exhaust, so I did those. Now it is running better ( I can actually get the RPMs over 1500) but still running rough and will stall if I let off the gas. It will surge and dip in RPMs. Very suspicious of vacuum leak.
Unplugged the MAFS and it roared upon start but within a minute started the sputtering etc. Currently pulled the IAC and check continuity between pins and it was 10 ohms so that passed but there is no continuity between either pin and the case. So this seems to indicate I need to replace the IAC which I will do tomorrow. I would love to find a diagram that displays the vacuum system so I can make a thorough check of it. Also seems to have an oil leak on drivers side valve cover gasket.
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SAAB 2007 9-3 - Recently my car has been having a rough idle and stalling on start up. It has been getting worse and I need it fixed ASAP for a long trip coming up. I cannot have this thing die on me while I'm 300 miles from home....
At stop lights the car will have a rough idle while in park and reverse. While in neutral, nothing. As soon as I accelerate, it goes away but does have a lack of power if I really push the pedal. Once I am in 3rd/4th gear, the car feels normal with no issues. If I am on the highway and slow down then need to accelerate, it goes back to losing power BUT if I change over to manual and downshift, car gains power and goes back to normal.
Here's what I have done so far:
1. Changed the spark plugs twice. Once with cheap ones, the second time with expensive ones. I also swapped out the boots.
2. Cleaned the MAP sensor
3. Cleaned intake sensor
4. Replaced air filter
5. Changed oil
6 New battery
The engines gives no codes whatsoever and I have taken it to a couple places and their readers don't see any codes. My SAAB has a built in fuel filter and this cannot be replaced unless you replaced the whole pump (to my understanding). I plan on buying some Seafoam today and see if that works. Also, I have been told to clean my air intake valve but I cannot get the damn tube off! I feel that if I yank and pull on it, it's going to damage the tube. I am not seeing any obvious leaks anywhere. One thing that is weird about my car, since I have bought it used a few years ago, my headlights/tail lights/blinkers go bad QUICKLY!
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I finally finished installing my VF stage 2 supercharger. I fired it up and the idle is low (around 500 rpms) and a very rough idle. Throttle response is very slow, when it finally revs the car stalls. I can also hear a leak somewhere near the throttle body. I have an SAI block off plate. 630cc injectors and UM tune. No CEL
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1996 / 2.2 L4 / 186k / Upper engine rebuild 30k ago
Car was driven on a errand by my mother. Upon trying to leave for home, the car started running very rough, and stalling. From the description she gave on the phone, it sounded like a plugged up exhaust. I told her to get some fresh gas and ease it home after.
When I checked the car for codes, I got 2. A P0300 and a P0122. Okay, so the throttle position switch has taken a dump, that's easy enough. The car has 186k miles, but my constant nannying usually soothes her, so surely that's all, right? God, I wish that turned out to be true.
I pulled the plugs, and #4 was gas fouled and sooty, #2 and #3 looked lean, and #1 was partially wet fouled. There was also gasoline in the oil. When the car would run, it would run the gambit from idling semi rough then stalling out and refusing to restart, almost like it was flooded, to idling scarily bad and no pedal response, to running too high of an idle and idle searching.
Since I have:
Replaced the TPS
Replaced the IAC
Replaced the CTS
Replaced the MAP
Replaced the ICM
Replaced the FPR
Replaced both ignition coils
Replaced plugs and wires
Replaced the fuel injectors
Replaced the PCV
Replaced the fuel filter
Checked the pintle on the EGR (looked good, cleaned)
Checked for Vacuum leaks (as best I could)
Checked the Fuel pressure (40 PSI) (drops to 20 after shutoff)
Checked for exhaust restriction (ran open exhaust manifold)
That brings us to today. New injectors just in, and the engine will run, but rough and loud. It almost sounds like the firing order is off slightly (I am using 1342 or from L to R 4132) and throttle control is almost non existent. It also shuts off when its warm almost like its flooded. No codes are showing. (despite discovering a sensor in back being unplugged and the O2 sensor being unplugged at times).
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 6 cyl. engine, ~145k miles. A few weeks ago, I noticed the engine would occasionally run rough at idle, dropping down to a low rpm (~500 rpm, but erratic) for a few seconds before stalling. This usually happens when in park or stopped at a stoplight, but it's occasionally happened at low speed while coasting to a stop (never while accelerating, or while traveling above 20 mph or so). Generally, the car will restart right away, though sometimes I have wait a few seconds to a minute (I was a real popular guy at that intersection).
At first, no codes came up, so I changed the plugs and wires (I was due anyway). That didn't work. (The plugs, while worn, looked normal to me-no residue). I've since had a P0351 code pop up. Before I throw parts at this code (ignition coil, I believe), is there anything else I should be looking into?
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I am happy to own a Hyundai Santa Fe (2009) 2.7l which originally originated in the US. It is a really nice car, however, it recently over time developed the problem, which causes some pain - firstly it started with rough idle (pulsating), now it began to stall from time to time when decelerating.
[URL].....
I tried to plug a OBD reader and here's what I get (well, that's a "pending" fault, but still might be useful).
I tried to browse around the internet. I believe it is unlikely that 2 oxygen sensors fail at the same time. It could possibly be caused by vacuum leaks or faulty MAF. Is it a common fault among Santa Fe?
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My coworker is giving me a clean 2001 Santa Fe with 151000 miles. It was running fine then all of the sudden it lost power but was able to stutter home. I went to check it out it started fine but idled a little rough. When I revved the engine it rose to about 2500rpm and stuttered then stalled. Kind of like it was rich and choking out. It then had difficulty restarting.
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This is a little odd. Over the last two years or so the van had developed a rough idle issue. When left to idle in Park or Neutral the roughness would usually lead to the engine stalling after a few minutes.This happened both in and out of gear but only when the engine was still cold, idle returned to normal once normal op temp had been reached. Cleaning the IAC got rid of the problem... sort of. Now it idles fine in Park or Neutral but when in gear and engine/tranny still cold it is still very rough.
When waiting at a traffic light with my foot on the brakes the van shudders as it tries to lurch forward, the shaking is very noticeable even to those outside the van. This has become so bad I shift it into Neutral every time I need to stop at a traffic light, and it instantly settles into steady smooth idle at 800 rpm. However once the engine is warm everything returns to normal. Another thing I noticed is that when in gear and cold the roughness only occurs with brakes applied. Feels like whenever the roughness in the engine occurs the transmission attempts to override the brakes, which causes the lurching.
While the problem only lasts 5 to 10 minutes until op temp is reached it is nevertheless very annoying and driving me nuts. My main concern is that it may eventually cause damage to the transmission to be tugged at and jerked around in such a way. I am running out of reasonable explanations as tho what may be causing this and have begun elaborating more esoteric theories. My latest one is that since this only happens when the brakes are applied then the tiny voltage required to activate the brake lights is somehow causing some other electric part to fail, and that the rough idle is somewhat related to this. Shows you just how desperate I'm getting.
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I have a 2005 Mazda 6. When it is cold - I start the vehicle & begin to drive. When I slow down and the RPMS get around 1000 - the car begins to run really rough & try to stall. If I put my foot on the gas - I can usually prevent it from stalling. The problem disappears once the car gets warm. The dealership recalibrated the PCM based on a Mazda Alert. However, it has not corrected the issue. Looking for thoughts on what could be causing this?
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