I finally finished installing my VF stage 2 supercharger. I fired it up and the idle is low (around 500 rpms) and a very rough idle. Throttle response is very slow, when it finally revs the car stalls. I can also hear a leak somewhere near the throttle body. I have an SAI block off plate. 630cc injectors and UM tune. No CEL
View 3 RepliesMy wife got a 2014 Tiguan (R-Line) yesterday. Nice car but throttle response is slow.
Wondered to know about APR Stage 1 tune on a Tiguan.
I have just taken a red mk4 r32 home. It feels really down on power and throttle is really snappy when try to take off.
If im going along at any speed say 20-50mph and lift the throttle off it gets a quick burst of acceleration. I think its had a Celtic remap if that means anything. also gets some crackling and popping even with the cats still on it.
Also cleaned the throttle body made no difference. I am also sure i can hear a vacuum leak when going through streets. Just replaced MAF and Lambda sensor. no other codes coming up on diagnostics.
Got a 1996 Volkswagen Cabrio with around 125k miles. Recently the check engine light came on. Had the code pulled (P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response) and reset but it came back on shortly thereafter. I've also noticed that the car idles strangely, generally after it has warmed up a little bit. Basically it will idle rough and sound as though it might choke out but if you give it a little gas it goes back to a normal, even idle.
Right now it's getting around 20+ MPG average which seems a little low but I only purchased it 3 months ago so I don't have much to compare it against. One other thing I've noticed is that the plastic molding around where the gas nozzle goes in is cracked which makes it difficult to fill it up since it doesn't make a good seal unless you position the gas nozzle just right.
Any thoughts on whether either of these problems might be related to the weird idle? How hard is it to change the front 02 sensor?
I own a 2004 Passat- 1.8. I want to make my steering and throttle more responsive. The throttle is very slow responding, and the steering is very sloppy. I know this is supposed to be VW's Luxury car, but this would greatly enhance the performance and driveability of this car. How do I do this?
View 5 RepliesThe throttle response from a standstill seems VERY slow. When I push down the accelerator, it seems to go down a good 3-4 inches before I meet any significant resistance, and even then, I can do a good 2 second count before the engine seems to engage. If I am stopped at a light, and I slightly blip the accelerator, then push the pedal down, it does better. But if I am stopped and floor the gas pedal, nothing happens....at ALL...for at least 2 seconds. It is slightly better when in manual, but the issue is enough for even my wife to comment that it takes off very slowly when you first give it gas.
View 14 RepliesI am a dedicated Ford truck owner. Both vehicles I have had are both F150's. My first one was a 5.4L v8 03 and my current is a 5.4L v8 06 4x4, seen below.
When I bought the truck it was straight piped. I went ahead and did a GOTTS mod on it. The truck also has the factory tow package. I replaced the spark plugs and engine oil (Amsoil High Mileage). I did a couple basic things like putting in the light bar and replacing the headlight housings. Other than that it it pretty much the same as when I bought it. I cleaned the throttle body and sensors, using the proper cleaners. I ran two cans of SeaFoam through as well.
With my last truck, I 'flushed' the transmission (not a actual flush, but I changed the tranny oil about 7 times in a short period of time). A buddy suggested I do it, as it was a DOT truck and maybe wasn't treated the best. It was a automatic, just like my 06. Would that do any actual good?
I have noticed that truck has a spongy/delayed throttle response. The engine idles normally and there are no codes being thrown. I had a similar issue with my 03 but it had a cable to the pedal and I just had to tighten that up and it was better. Perhaps because of the straight pipe and GOTTS and no tune?
2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
I've been having rather slow throttle response with my 6.0 f250 diesel at lower RPMs. Obviously, this is to be expected to some point.. Whether I'm cruising on the highway or through the neighborhood, if the truck is at lower RPMs and I try to accelerate, it doesn't want to. In order to get it to accelerate, I have to press the gas down enough to downshift it then it'll take off.
The truck doesn't have a loss of power at higher RPMs, it takes off like a bat out of hell. I've put 175CC injectors in, tuned it, power max turbo, EGR deleted / studded, etc. It's almost go out with acceleration, or go turtle power with acceleration.
Oil pump was replaced a couple years ago. This problem existed through it all, and it's rather annoying. The truck doesn't want to produce any low end power. If I try to hit the gas enough to accelerate but not enough to force a downshift, I'll just blow smoke, spool the turbo, and barely accelerate until I down shift or push the truck through it. Turbo PSI is roughly ~15ish-20ish during the sluggish transition.
7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill. CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 F450 with the 7.3L in it. I brought it home the other day and parked it. Later I went to do something with it and I had no throttle response at all. I checked the wiring going in and coming out of the throttle position sensor. I have approx. 5 volts going in and the voltage sits at about .5 volts and rises as the accelerator is depressed on the outgoing wire. The other switch on the pedal is open and does close when the pedal is depressed, so it seems those are fine. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to have on the 3rd wire that goes to the TPS.
I have a Bully Dog tuner and it shows an exhaust back pressure sensor error and a couple of voltage errors to the accelerator pedal. I read somewhere that someone had an exhaust sensor short out and it starved the accelerator pedal from voltage or something like that but I do have good voltage at the pedal going in and out. I ordered a new sensor and tube.
If the exhaust pressure sensor was shorting out and I unhooked the wires could that make the pedal work if the sensor was the problem or would the accelerator pedal not work at all without that sensor being connected? (The old tube was somewhat plugged up and I saw it had a small rust hole in it)
If it's not the sensor, what else can I check? Where can I check under the hood to see if the wires from the TPS are getting power to where they need to? I assume they go to the computer and that tells the pump or whatever to give more fuel.
So while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.
I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
My accelerator is very "slowpoke", anything I can do?
View 13 RepliesI am leaving from a meeting with my business partner and taking a left turn at about 10mph and very light throttle due to a rough road. All of the sudden I've got nothing. No throttle response and my car starts chugging bad. Then I see the EPC light on. I shut the car off as it sounds like I have only 2 cyls firing. start her back up and boom, normal again. No power loss, no lights, nothing. I immediately thought water pump. not the case though obviously. From what I can tell the EPC will come on for multi misfires. but for it to come on that suddenly for no apparent reason and then just be fine when I shut off and restart, I would assume this may be an ecu or coil issue.
View 23 RepliesI searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
View 5 RepliesMk4 jetta 1.8t ECP light is on, when I lightly push gas, car stalls and cuts off. Where to begin? Here's the vagcom readings:
906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 LP
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0007
Coding: 07500
Shop #: WSC 78901
VCID: 77FDFDB25513C5A6AAD-5140
3VWSE69M12M090016 VWZ7Z0A4180723
18 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
I've noticed that my throttle response is pretty weak. Doesn't seem to just go when ya put the pedal down. I mean it goes but not as fast as i think it should. is this how it is on all our cars? kinda seems like it has a hesitation or something. Anything I could do about this?
IMG : [URL] ...
Had brought this up before but it seems like the thread got black holed. After my car warms up, it feels quite a bit down on power and throttle response is a bit jerky. I just replaced the MAF and the coils hopping it would work, no codes on VAG Com. I was thinking maybe the green coolant temp sensor went out ? Car does backfire a bit when decelerating. Also the RPMs drop down a bit slower than normal lately.
Cam sensors are not loose.
GIAC chip, EVO intake + stage 2, exhaust. 134k miles.
I was driving home yesterday, when all of a sudden felt like the car downshifted by its self. I tried giving it gas but nothing happened. The car still starts up and runs fine there's just no throttle response. I had to drive it home by riding the gears. Today i scanned the car and a few codes came up. I already had some previous codes because my secondary air injection pump is deleted and same with an evap solenoid also had some codes for injectors but im pretty sure that's cause they're not stock and the resistance isn't the same. The codes that popped up including the previous ones.
P1631 accelerator position sensor g79
P1634 accelerator position sensor limp mode?
p1469 evap code
P1433 secondary air pump
P1690 malfunctioning cell light
Im pretty sure that's what each code is for. The last 3 codes were previously existing and the car drove fine.
Anyways i tried cleaning up the contacts on the gas pedal, didn't work. So I looked under my car to look for damaged 02 wires, which i found. Did a super shotty temporary fix, and still nothing works. I heard maybe it could be my ecu? The car is a 1999.5 golf originally a 2.0 but has been swapped with a awp 1.8t out of a 20th, 5 speed Lots of work done to the engine.
Driving Down the highway at approximately 80 mph. Adjusting my electronic boost controller for more boost, I input the values set it and slowly accelerated in fifth gear reached max boost around 90 mph all of a sudden I Lost all throttle response EPC light ESP come on and I start decelerating. The pullover to the side of the road and I hook up my generic OBD2 scanner comes up with the code P0606 (001542 - Internal Control Module: Processor Fault == 214b) and P2106 (Throttle Valve Actuator Module (J338): Power Limited due to Malfunction. After scanning and reading and looking up with the codes were disconnected the battery reconnected the battery and tried to start the car again but this Time Rd., Ranger pulled up behind me blocked traffic so I can get back on the highway soon as I get on the highway CEL back on run the code real quick message airflow sensor. Get off the next exit go to the gas station shut the car off disconnect and reconnect the mass airflow sensor clear the code get back on the highway check engine light does not come back on but idles fine 14 to 1 air fuel ratio but if I step on the gas and hit boost it goes all the way lean 60 mile an hour cruising speed it stayed at like between 13.9 and 15:1. Also got a CEL earlier in the day for p0040 (oxygen sensor swapped bank 1 sensor 1, Bank 2 sensor1.
Hpa air/water intercooler
Sri
9:1 weisco pistons
I.e. H beam rods
870cc injectors
Unitronic big turbo 870 tune
Gerrett gt35r
Full custom 3" exhaust
#ctsturbo downpipe
Ctsturbo turbo manifold
New gizmo electronic boost controller
Engine has Aprox 2300 miles body frame has about 79000.