Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F250 Stalling / Loss Of Throttle Response And Won't Start
May 27, 2008
2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
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I've been having rather slow throttle response with my 6.0 f250 diesel at lower RPMs. Obviously, this is to be expected to some point.. Whether I'm cruising on the highway or through the neighborhood, if the truck is at lower RPMs and I try to accelerate, it doesn't want to. In order to get it to accelerate, I have to press the gas down enough to downshift it then it'll take off.
The truck doesn't have a loss of power at higher RPMs, it takes off like a bat out of hell. I've put 175CC injectors in, tuned it, power max turbo, EGR deleted / studded, etc. It's almost go out with acceleration, or go turtle power with acceleration.
Oil pump was replaced a couple years ago. This problem existed through it all, and it's rather annoying. The truck doesn't want to produce any low end power. If I try to hit the gas enough to accelerate but not enough to force a downshift, I'll just blow smoke, spool the turbo, and barely accelerate until I down shift or push the truck through it. Turbo PSI is roughly ~15ish-20ish during the sluggish transition.
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2005 F150, 5.4 motor. Truck would loose power and no throttle response. Shutting off and restarting, ran fine. No codes showing. Cleaned throttle body and plate, reassembled. Key left on for 20 minutes. Tried to start vehicle. Making a clicking sound, dash lights flashing on and off when hear clicking sound when trying to start vehicle. when key turned to on position, dash lights go off except check engine light. When checked, no codes shown.
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So while driving just now the truck went down to idle and no matter what I did to the gas pedal the throttle would not change. The truck didn't die but would just sit at idle. It was like the gas pedal wasn't connected. About a minute later it surged a little and then I was able to drive like normal.
History- last week while at a red light the engine surged and then almost died. Light changed and I hit the gas....and stayed at idle...then died. Restarted and died two more times and then just drove like normal. Changed fuel filters and and checked fuel pressure. Under boost it was 38-40 psi. Idle it was 45. Cac tube replaced due to cracks.
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I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
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So I was driving to work and the truck lost throttle response. There was very little of it! Came to a stop then it didn't barely want to move, pulled over then it died on me! No clue what to look at! 2005 6.0 232k miles
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I just completed installing rebuilt injectors in #2 and #4. for the 2nd time. The first set had failures with those two. After assembly, the engine runs rough which is understandable considering the air introduced. I can run the RPMs up while in neutral or park, however; there is almost no throttle response in drive or reverse. It will barely move and only slightly raises the RPMs. I am unable to drive it to get the air out until this particular issue is solved.
Prior to the tear down for #2 and #4, the throttle response was fine.
Current Codes:
P0272 - I am hoping this would go away once the air is gone.
Software:
AE w/ Ford Bundle (New to me)
Buzz test is fine
Power balance looks great
FICM logic and power are good
Skills:
DIY w/ limited electrical knowledge
Recent Mods in last 300 miles:
New heads
ARP studs
ICP
IPR
FICM w/ Atlas 40 from FICMreapir.com
Injector harness
HPOP
Chemical flushes
Oil Cooler
Leak Proof Ball Tubes
Stand Pipes
8 Rebuilt Injectors
Batteries
MAP Sensor
New Turbo w/ updated supply and return
All associated gaskets and orings replaced with the above
All OEM where available, except injector rebuild service
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2007 F350 6.0L 230,000 miles
Yesterday, while driving home from a weekend out of town trip, all of sudden lost throttle control. Just went to idle while at cruise speeds, could pump pedal and no response. Then got pedal control back and seemed to run normally.
This happened several times. Hubby suggested moving the adjustable pedal which I did slightly. Although I was not using the cruise control, we had a sense that maybe it was engaging??? So I hit the off button a couple of times. After these two interventions, drove the last 80 miles home with no further incidents.
Today, we checked codes and had a PO231, Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low. I don't think that is our problem with above based on research, but we will look into fixing that too. We are thinking TPS or a position sensor on the accelerator pedal. We could replace those easily ourselves.
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2003 F350 6.0 cc 4x4 with 291k... Not sure if I have a problem or not, it happened at a signal light: The light turned green, I pressed the throttle and started to move. As I pressed more, there was no response. Second later it took off and I have had no more problem. What the cause maybe?
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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While driving home the other night at highway speed my truck lost power. I just filled the tank about 15 miles before then and everything was running fine. No lights came on the dash before the truck died and now can't get it started. Bad fuel? Clogged filter?
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
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My friend is working on a 2004 6.0 F-250 and it has used 75% of the coolant in the overflow bottle in 5 days. Can't smell coolant either. The inside of the tailpipe is wet soot black and there are wet spots on the tube coming from the intercooler to the turbo at the turbo and the intercooler. He's thinking EGR cooler.
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I have an 04 6.0. My truck was running perfect, no problems. I start my truck, it started idealing rough for a couple seconds then just died. After that it just kept cranking and no start. There are no codes, tried unplugging the ICP sensor and nothing. Checked the fuel filter and its filling up with fuel before cranking. Oil is at a good level. FICM is reading 46.5-47.5 before cranking. Checked the ICP Psi I'm only building 11psi and HPOP was replaced in October.
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My husband and I purchased a 2004 f250 king ranch 6.0L... We love the truck, despite the headaches. We took it to a dealership and spent just under $5k in parts, drove it for a month (everything going great) until we shut it off to bs w a friend and it won't turn back on. It's been sitting for 4 days and nothing. Cranks and cranks, but won't actually start. We are pretty handy with gas trucks, but this diesel is out of our element- we are getting better though haha!
We looked on here and saw that the no start could be bc of the FICM - swapped it out- not the issue.
Now the codes being thrown are P2291 & P2285 (or so my husband says)
We are thinking if we replace the ICP and that fixes it, we won't need to do the HPOP. Or do we need to do it as well? Are we on the right track?
When we shut it off, it didn't have any lights on, no gauge fluctuations, or any "red flags". This is why we are stumped!!
(Ford dealership fixes: 2 batteries, new starter, new tank cap, new oil cooler, maybe a few others- receipts not infront of me).
Like I mentioned, we've already dropped more money than we have into this truck and now it's taking more- we love the truck and once it's fixed we will "have a new truck" it just sucks bc my husband works afternoons and I'm a stay at home mom with a 14mo and this is our only vehicle.
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I have an early 2004 F 250 6.0 that just quit one day and haven't been able to get it started since then. I have tried to follow the No Start checklist...
I have no aftermarket mods or tunes.
I have changed the fuel filters, made sure that there is fuel in the tank and made sure that it is getting fuel.
I have un-plugged the ICP and still no start.
When I turn the key on it goes through the regular sequence and I hear the injectors (sounds like it's doing a buzz test).
When I try to start it, it cranks over, but I hear a good bit of clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under the driver's side dash.
I have inspected fuses/relay and dont see anything smokingly obvious.
I installed new batteries, but no joy.
While trying to start, it sounds like it may actually do it for a second, and then I get a noise from the starter.
I bought a scanguage and added the PIDs that I found searching through the forum and here are my results.
ICP key on = 0.23 ICP while trying to start = 1.30
ICP Voltage (Volts)
TXD: 07E02216AD
RXF: 0462451606AD
RXD: 3010
[Code] ....
Camshaft & Crankshaft Sync = This is erratic; it will flash 1 and immediately go away. The thing is, I don't know which sensor should be replaced.
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The truck is a 2004 f250. Build date is 7/ 03 so its an early 04. I have been in a parking lot for 3 days now with no money trying to get this truck to start. Me and my dad replaced the ipr pigtail and the ipr thinking this might have been the problem, because the ipr pigtail had a damaged connector.
Before doing this work the icp sensor connector had no oil in it, now after replacing the ipr and cranking the engine the icp has some oil in the connector, could this cause a short and not let the truck start, and if so will unplugging the icp allow the truck to start?
We were having trouble with no starts before this happened and when it did all we had to was push the ground wire back further that goes back to the ficm and the truck would start, but that is not working anymore.
Is it possible the ipr is not seated properly or the new ipr is bad out of the box? Or maybe the made in tawain pigtail connector to the ipr is bad?
We are thinking it may be a short somewhere in the harness since everytime we pushed the ground to the ficm up further to where it grounds before when we had no start problems this might have took the short out of the ipr or icp pigtails and allowing the truck to start. Injectors are buzzing when key is turned and I can hear the fuel pump.
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this morning I started my 2004 f250 drove a mile and filled up my truck. Then drove another mile and my truck acted like it was running out of fuel. It was loosing power then stalled out and wouldn't start. About five hours later I tried to start it again and nothing. about five hours after that I tried it again and it started up and drove fine.
My thought was fuel filter or the water trap. I haven't had a chance to open the filters up and check them yet. Today while I was at work I got on here to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it. all I could think of was maybe the HPOP went out or the ICP sensor. Could one of these be the problem or was I right with my original thinking and it's just a fuel filter? First thing in the morning I'm going to pull the filters and replace them.
Could there be something else wrong with my truck that I don't know about? Like I said I filled up the fuel tank then it lost power within a mile and stalled out and wouldn't start back up. Then about 10 hours later it fires up and acts like nothing happened.
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I literally just got this truck 1 week ago. '05 6.0 F250. I have read numerous other threads and have not found an answer. I will start from the beginning.
I was driving on the hwy and once the engine is hot and I am over 55mph the truck feels like it wants to stall. The rpms drop and come right back up. Its like a 'hiccup'. If it starts to act up and I pull over it remains at idle and not stall. Once i get back on the hwy IF I go over 55mph the truck will stall and I will not be able to start until cool.
After doing some reading through the forums I replaced the IPR on the HPOP.
I tested the high pressure oil system. I took off the valve covers and tested both the right and left side individually, with the IPR valve open and close; cannot find a leak.
I took the fitting off of the top of the HPOP and tested with air there as well. I only hear air out of the weep hole in the back behind the gear on the pump.
I took the oil pump off and charged the branch tube with air, no leaks.
I checked all the dummy plugs. They have been already replaced with the upgraded ones and the orings all looked good.
I took the upper half of the standpipes out - look good, orings looked good. I was unable to get the lower half of the standpipe out on the passenger side due to the air box and the driver side only the top half came out when unscrewed from the oil rail.
I put it all back together with 2 new batteries.
I started it, (started cold), drove it 25 miles and it stalled, let it cool down and it started. Drove it 20 more miles and I pulled into a parking lot and I shut it off, and it started right back up 3 times. When it shut it off on the highway I unplugged the ICP sensor and it did NOT start.
It runs fine until I go over 55mph then I am getting the same stall issue. I can drive it around under 50mph and have no issues. I drove it under 50mph and shut it off a total of 3 times and it started back up no problem. If I drive it over 55mph rpm gauge drops and then comes right back up and IF it stalls I cannot start until it cools. Once it stalls out, If I try to crank on it, my IPR is 84.8% IPC - 99-120.
I am using a Scanguage II at idle:
ICP - 18.5
IPR - 585
FMP - 47.5
My FICM Voltage stays between 12.5 - 13.0 while running.
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