My friend is working on a 2004 6.0 F-250 and it has used 75% of the coolant in the overflow bottle in 5 days. Can't smell coolant either. The inside of the tailpipe is wet soot black and there are wet spots on the tube coming from the intercooler to the turbo at the turbo and the intercooler. He's thinking EGR cooler.
View 6 RepliesHaving this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
View 4 RepliesStill working on this E450. Now, I'm trying to get the turbo back on and I don't know how the heck to get the oil tube in.
There's so little room that I can't lift the turbo up. Just getting it in and out is a chore. I was able to pull the oil tube out with some difficulty when I was removing the turbo, but if it put it in first, the turbo won't go over it to get back in. If I leave it disconnected to get the turbo in, I have no way to reach under it to get the oil tube back in.
I only messed with it for a little while - it's physically difficult bending over inside the van to wrestle with it - and will go back at it first thing in the morning. I know there's gotta be a way, I've just never done this before.
Do I stick the tube in the turbo first, in the engine, or neither until I got the turbo in place?
I didn't realize the 6.7 had two places that you need to monitor your coolant level. I've kept an eye on my coolant reservoir for the rad due to radiator failures reported but just today noticed there was another one for the intercooler. Mine was quite low. I'm sure most of you knew it was there but for those that didn't, keep that baby topped up I can't imagine having a hot intercooler is good.
View 7 RepliesLost my turbo at idle early this week un plugged the ebp sensor which gave me a 10.7 default reading but got the turbo back at idle. Ok easy fix. Ordered a new ebp tube and sensor. Wired up the new pigtail and installed the new sensor and tube. Truck ran great all day. Now I goto leave tonight and I have the same problem.
So I unplug the ebp sensor and I have a default reading of only 6.5 now? I checked all my splice pigtail connections and everything looks fine still. What it could be this time?
This is is a truck I hardly know anything about. My wife bought it while I was deployed for herself and when it comes to vehicles she's an idiot. No, really she told me she bought it because at horse shows everyone else has one.
I noticed an oil leak and had a reputable shop look at it. They told me it was coming from some seals on the turbo. Long story short there is a brand new turbo on there, stock replacement. Now it seems very under powered and shifts hard. Pressing down anything more than 25% throttle will cause hard shifting or no shifting at all. It'll stay in second until I ease off the throttle.
I tried searching a few terms but I'm not sure what to look for. I don't know if someone has messed with the tuning. Broken clamp on the turbo. Replaced and everything is back to normal...
I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
While driving home the other night at highway speed my truck lost power. I just filled the tank about 15 miles before then and everything was running fine. No lights came on the dash before the truck died and now can't get it started. Bad fuel? Clogged filter?
View 5 RepliesOk I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
View 4 Replies2005 F250 SD, Crew Cab, Diesel 6.0L...
Hauling my jeep (close to 16,000 pounds all in F250+trailer+jeep) on a highway going a little over 70mph up a hill when I seemed to have lost some power and the check engine light came on. The turbo PSI was well over 20PSI (according to the gauge in the dash). I have a Scan Boss but I have not been monitoring turbo boost PSI.
I was only 10 miles from the final destination so I continued without stopping. It seemed that the turbo was limited for the rest of the trip. Later in the evening, no more check engine light but I haven't really driven the truck since then.
What do you think the problem was? What should the course of action be?
2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.
ive noticed my boost has been going down lately. At first I thought it was a boost leak so I replaced all the intercooler boots and both sides of the intercooler pipes. That diddnt change anything at all. I recently got new injectors (200/30%) and a hydra tune for them and it was quick the first few days i was running with that setup, my boost has been dropping and currently at WOT I can't even get to 10lbs of boost and it is noticeable driving, it's slower than it was stock. There was no play in the shaft of my turbo and the turbo in there is only 2 years old. Could the turbo be bad already? Or is there anything else I can check before buying a new one. I have an upgraded hpop and the 6637 intake.
View 13 RepliesI spotted a leak last nite on my 6.0. It is coolant, running down the right rear on 2 metal lines that go to the trans I think. It was dark and 24 degrees so I did not spend too much time looking. Shut the mother down til I could research. 2004 250, 6.0 FX4x4, stock. Coolant was changed to green by previous owner. Bought it 4 months ago. 187,000 miles.....
View 14 Replies2006 f250 egr delete banks intercooler / cac tubes. Afe intake ... Sinister egr delete plate..... Truck smokes when sitting at a lite upon take off. Removed down pipe found slight amount of oil. Removed turbo put a kit in it and it is worse now. The turbo was in bad shape. The thrust bushing was pretty ate up and it had a lot of shaft play. I cant believe it wasn't hitting the housings. My thought was maybe the housing is bad. If the orings fail on the vgt solenoid what happens ? The vgt is working cause i can throttle it with the auto ingenuity...
View 14 RepliesSo I bought my first diesel last night and I'm in LOVE!!! It's an 06 F-250 with 6.0 (obviously). It's bulletproofed, rebuilt FICM, EGR deleted, and 4 inch exhaust IIRC. Previous owner had an issue with the turbo and replaced it. New turbo was DOA so he rebuilt it (sort of) and added a precision turbo (again IIRC) back housing (I think) to it. It has an SCT tuner as well and I have it set on the custom economy tune. Is this normal? Is there something I need to be doing about this?
View 6 RepliesHaving a turbo shaft that broke? My 03 F250 turbo shaft was just replaced by the dealer, actually the whole turbo. This is the 4th turbo. Truck has 48000 miles on it. 1st 3 turbo's had sticking unison ring & vanes but this one had a broken shaft. Mechanic said unison ring & vanes were fine.
View 4 RepliesI recently had an upper radiator hose bust and ever since I have been having a slight water leak. It appeared to be coming from between the layers of rubber on the new hose which I replaced twice since the incident. Both hoses had water seeping from the same location. This afternoon I plan on doing a pressure test on the cooling system to diagnose where the water may be coming from.
My question is could a loss of pressure cause larger than normal Oil and Water deltas? If I have to replace the radiator is there a particular manufacturer or type I should avoid? Should I try to get a factory replacement from Ford or would an Autoparts unit be sufficient? The original is still in the truck now with 286,000 miles on it.
While servicing the bosses 121k 6.0, I noticed the coolant resevoir empty. It took 1 1/2 gallons to bring to proper level. Returning under truck to install drain plug, I noticed coolant coming from rear of the engine(right side). And of course Ford has changed the cooling system cap, so I wasn't able to pressure test it to pinpoint the leak. Started the engine and seen coolant coming from the left rear as well. I've been reading here to see what others have been seeing, (EGR cooler, head gaskets). With all the heat shields,not much room to look.
After work I did go and buy the adapter to test the cooling system. With any luck I will be able to see leak better.
Had a bad turbo on my 07 F550 with a 6.0. Replaced it today and took her for a ride. Started smoking and oil was spitting out of the weep hole in the muffler. A lot of smoke. The truck was smoking before I replaced the turbo too but I didn't have any oil coming out of the weep hole. I'm hoping it is just oil that had been passed into the exhaust by the bad turbo that is now being burnt off and pushed out by the new turbo. Does this sound plausible?
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