Passat (B6) :: Vibration In Pedal And Engine While Stopped With Brake Pushed
Aug 5, 2008
Is it normal on the 2.0T that when you are driving and stop at a red light to get vibration that you can feel in the car and hear in the motor? As soon as you let off the break it stops and the engine stops the noise. I don't drive the car enough really (my wifes) to know if it is normal or if this just started. It is an 07 and just turned 12k on the weekend trip. Also, having a problem on Sat radio with there being a high pitch hum in the back ground? [IMG] [URL] ...
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How much movement should the motor have? I have never seen a motor move period, so I am worried about wifes car. This is on topic [URL] ....
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At high speeds 70mph + there is a vibration with my 2006 Passat. You can definitely feel it at your feet, and slighty at the body. It is snowy and cold up here, I tried a few different roads, no change.
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As outlined in this thread: [URL] .....
I had a recent misfire issue. Unfortunately the dealer has been unable to find the source. Since the original misfire I can feel the car vibrating when I am in drive or reverse and am stopped with the brake applied (ex - waiting at a stop light). It goes away when I drive and when I am in neutral. I realize there is SOME vibration noticeable in gear, possibly because of the way the engine is mounted. However, this seems different.
The tach stays at 750 rpm in idle (it may fluctuate a TINY bit but never goes over 800 at idle) as always. The vibration feels much like a vibration one would feel if a cell phone or pager were left on vibrate. This doesn't seem to be a rough idle where the car is "jittery" or "jerks", and, as mentioned, the rpm doesn't change.
I would think a bad coilpack or plug (plugs changed at 40K, Im now at 45k) would cause a misfire, and a CEL. I've looked into a throttle body cleaning and will do this, but I would think that would cause a rough idle as well. My understanding is that a MAF problem would be similar.
The only thing I can think of is a motor or tranny mount issue, but the car only has 45k miles and this problem was non existent until the misfire. Im almost certain it isn't related to having the car lowered recently.
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I traded my 2007 Prius for the 2010 III Prius on 5/30. I had 5 wonderful days with it and on the 6th day, it started.
There is a loud creaking noise when the brake pedal is pushed and released.
The dealership contacted Toyota and did everything that was suggested to correct the problem and no luck.
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My less than 7000 miles RX started making noise when I pushed the brake pedal. Evidently it sounded like the "LS brake squawk" according to service foreman. Not sure if the actuator is same in all RXs.
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I noticed this strange behavior this afternoon on my SantaFe DM. Every time I press the break pedal, the front position lights turn on during daylight. Light switch is set on Auto.
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Let me tell you a story ‘bout my daughter’s 2008 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L…
We have owned the car since 2009. Recently the car has begun to start intermittently. Generally it starts normally. Other times it won’t. It can be driven for a month with no problem and then BAM! It won’t start. No dead battery sound, no clicking, no starter trying to engage NUTT’N!
AND… the brake pedal is firm! The brake pedal is firm and cannot be pushed down!
The car has been to the Dodge dealer several times. They have replaced the starter because a couple of teeth were missing, flashed the computer and replaced the alternator. The car started fine for a few days and then wouldn’t start again.
The Dodge boys kept the car for a week and of course, it started fine while they had it. One of the service managers told me to pull out a certain fuse to reset the computer. They also told me that they usually see these types of problems if the car was jump started wrong (the jumper cables were hooked up backwards I guess).
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My transmission died last night on the way home from school. I was driving down the road just after leaving school and as I started to accelerate the car, I noticed that it wasn't moving so I pushed the pedal a little harder when I saw the rpm gauge rev. Up pretty high. The car was showing it was in 4 th gear and as I was slowing down so was the number on the display. I came to a stop and tried to move forward but noting. I had the car towed to the dealership so now the fun begins to see what is wrong with it.
I had the car in a few months ago for a whining sound coming from the car especially when I would put the car in reverse to back up. The dealer said we don't see anything wrong, go figure.
I'm suspecting that the transmission is shot. When the car was towed to the dealer I had to engage the parking break because the car wouldn't stay parked, it would roll even though it was in park.
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My car had slowed down when I pushed the gas pedal. I had to get towed. White powder was on the face of engine. Car will not crank. It makes a humming sound. Kia 2004 spectra ex....
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I have a 2014 Passat TDI with a 6 speed manual. When the clutch pedal is depressed between upshifts, there is an audible groaning sound and a vibration in the clutch pedal. The dealer replaced the throwout bearing but the problem persisted. They then replaced the entire transmission and the noise/vibration is still there. The noise follows engine RPM. Is this normal for the TDI powertrain? The dealer had never encountered the noise but they did find another car on the lot with the same noise.
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I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S 5 speed manual and after 15000 miles I noticed a ticking noise in my engine bay and goes away once I push down on the clutch, but once I get off the clutch the noise comes back. Is this a normal thing or should I be concern? I have 75000 miles on my car now, is it covered through the extended manufacturer warranty coverage of 120000 miles?
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1090 Lumina Sedan 3.1 ... First time it had starting issues Recently. About 2 months ago my lumina's engine would die when i pushed down on the gas pedal. After 2 days of trying to fix the issue it wouldn't start at all, i replaced:
TPS
MAP/MAT Sensor
Fuel Filter
None of these worked so i sent it to a shop, they replaced:
ECM
Multi Port Injection (All 6 Injectors)
TPS (even though i had just installed a new one)
Serpentine Belt (it broke when they were test driving it after the Repairs were done)
The car would not start even after they replaced the first 3 parts on the list, so the tech looked further at the engine and found frayed and open wires, on the bottom near the front side passenger door, he repaired these wires and the car started and ran.
The only issues i had after their repair was a rough idle while braking and/or when i was at a full stop, the rough idle went away after a few days of driving.
((Current No Start Issues))A week ago i had what i am guessing is a few electrical issues: Speedometer Twitching and then dropping to nothing while driving, temp and oil light popping on and then off, when the engine was at a good temp and the oil was fine when i had checked the day before.
I went out a few days ago to run some errands and on my way home i turned a corner and when i put my foot down on the gas pedal the car just went "Put-put Put-put" every time i pushed the pedal more than a 1/4 of the way down. i reach a stop sign and being i was in the middle of nowhere and no one was coming down the road for miles i braked slightly and went past the stop sign halfway through my turn the engine died and i coasted to the side of the road, i got out and checked the engine, i had coolant not a whole lot but enough, then i checked the oil and it as far as i could tell it was at the add line even though it had been fine a few days before,(there has been no indication of an oil leak).
I rechecked the coolant and it looked like there was more in there than there was a few minutes before but i couldn't be sure, i was able to get the car restarted and headed towards home (about 2 miles away).at this point i was able to get the car going at around 25-45mph on the next sharp corner i turned the engine died again so i restarted and kept going, it died once more right before i reached the driveway but i was able to coast the rest of the way, once i parked the car i turned the engine off and tried to restart it a minute later and it started again so i left it be and called someone to bring me some oil, when they got to me with the oil i put some in and and it would not start at all.
- I checked one of the spark plug wires and it is not getting any spark.
- The ground terminal on the battery seems to be stripped
- The battery / altenator / starter---- All read to be between 12.15 and 12.36 volts
- The head lights, instrument panel and such still turn on properly.
I'm at a loss here, it was just in the shop 20 days ago and now it isn't working again. I would prefer to not have to put it back in the shop, if it might be something i could repair from home.
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I have a 99 Blazer 4x4 with ABS. Brake pedal just went to the floor and car stopped eventually ... a bit scary. I've checked all the brake lines and the inside of all wheels and there is no sign of fluid anywhere. All pistons seem to be where they need to be with backing plates nicely visible.
I pumped the brakes quite a few times and same result ... but I'm not pumping fluid on the ground. As expected I've also checked the reservoir and its full. Didn't see any leaks so its full. I'm guessing that the master cylinder has given up the ghost ... truck has 470,000km so things wear out.
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I'm getting this checked today most likely as it's been happening for months now. No issues with vibration and stopping is fine. As a matter of fact brakes are excellent. However when I'm stopped at a light or whatnot and I depress the brake pedal there's a pulsation that occurs almost every time. It's fairly constant and only happens when I'm at a stop not when I'm stopping so I know it's not a warped rotor. What it might be?
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Purchased a used 2010 Gen III a few months ago and have noticed a fast buzz, felt through the floor and brake pedal. It is intermittent but the conditions needed are:
1) Air conditioning running at high speed
2) Vehicle in Drive
3) Immediately approaching a stop, and a few seconds after stopping.
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My car is a 2004 Toyota Camry LE 2.4L. I've been having a brake pulsation problem with my car for few months. I feel the vibration on the pedal and also on the steering wheel when I brake at high speeds. And also I feel like the pedal goes too low and not responsive enough.
So I took the car to a local shop 3 days ago and they told me that the front rotors are bad and have to be replaced. They installed new Wagner front brake rotors and pads. But still I get the same problems described above. Today I drove on the highway and got the same vibration both on pedal and steering when I apply brakes.
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This morning I could feel vibration in both the clutch pedal and the brake pedal under normal acceleration. This just happened and is significant enough to make me feel something is wrong. Car has about 5700 miles on it. To be honest, I have never liked this transmission and have zero confidence in it. It feels completely weak, loose, soft, and lacks any feedback except unbelievably notchy shifting. Maybe it's my DieselGeek. I've already had to tighten/adjust it twice in ~2000 miles.
I am not resting my foot on the pedals during acceleration. I can feel the vibration as I go to engage the clutch/apply brakes.
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Has intermittent buzzing sensation through both the brake pedal and accelerator when at low speed or stationary? I drive a v10 diesel. I am aware of the normal vibration associated with a diesel (which is near non-existent in the Phaeton) but this is something very different.
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My friend got her front brakes and rotors replaced a few days ago and now the brake pedal is vibrating at various times. It happens when slowing down and at a complete stop. Sounds like the ABS is kicking in to me, BUT is also does it sometimes when driving at low speeds (under 40mph) without pressing the brake pedal. No loud clicking noises, just a quick steady vibration felt at the brake pedal/flooboard.
The service was not done at Hyundai dealership. She is out of town at the moment so we haven't had a chance to take it to the shop yet. She called, they played dumb apparently. I don't know enough about Hyundais to diagnose.
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I have a Camry at 120K now. Front brake pads was placed at 85K and was told by the maintenance person at that time that brake rotors couldn't be resurfaced since they were close to the minimum thickness.
Braking seems still fine these days. I don't hear any high-pitched noise or feel obvious vibration/pulsation when the brake is applied. The brake pads are still within a good range of thickness as the last check was made a couple of months ago.
But the brake pedal is softer than before so that now I have push harder to get car stopped. It that a warning sign which indicates it is time to replace the brakes rotors and pads?
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