Phaeton :: 2004 - Brake Pedal Goes To The Floor / Red Dash Lights Flashing
Feb 15, 2014
2004 with 214000 miles. Brake pedal goes to the floor, red dash lights are flashing, I just added a container of brake fluid and still no pressure at the pedal. I'm guessing master cylinder.
My question is: Even though my brake pedal goes directly to the floor, how am I getting the car to stop at the very end of the push? Do the brakes somehow work as a fail-safe even the the hydrolics are basically toast? I know that's a long shot, but it wouldn't be the first time I've been shocked over systems in this car.
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I drive a 1991 F-150 Lariat Extended Cab. Out of the blue, my brakes decided they didn't want to work unless the pedal is about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way down to the floor. As soon as I release past that 1/2 mark, they shut off. While this makes it great for tailgaters, it does not make it great for police officers.
We have already replaced the switch thinking maybe it was that, but alas it was not. I was reading in a couple difference places about the multiswitch? However, the symptoms other people had were similar, but not the same. I never tilt my steering wheel, so I dont know if that's the issue!
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My 04 Camry is having brake issues. It has 205k miles. The front pads are great and the back shoes are great. (Drums in back) I've had them adjusted multiple times but my pedal still goes almost to the floor. It's not the master cylinder cause I've already replaced that. The pedal doesn't bleed off either. But I have bled the brake lines and there is no air left in the lines.
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I was going down the highway at 70mph and came up to a toll booth when the brake pedal went to the floor and the car wouldn't stop. I hit the pedal hard and the car stopped in a very jerky manner as if the abs was initiated. I looked at the dash and the ABS, (!), and brake lights were illuminated. I turned the car off and then on again and the lights were off and the brakes worked normally again.
The Toyota dealer in CT said the weak battery was causing an under-voltage at the stroke sensor and replaced the battery. They told me if I lost my brakes again (!) I should bring it back for a new stroke sensor. In hindsight, I should have just told them to go ahead and replace the sensor. Two days later, driving down Florida route 301 in the rain, a stoplight went from yellow to red in about 3 seconds so I hit the pedal hard. The back brakes immediately locked up, the front wheels kept rolling, the car swerved and slid through the red light intersection sideways.
I counter steered and slid between two cars at the other red light, on the wrong side of the road as I straightened out. The car swerved and slid sideways again in the other direction and then spun around so I finally wound up in the correct lane, and I drove off like nothing happened. I was doing maybe 35-40 at the time and it's a miracle no one got hurt. Again I look down and see the lights illuminated. I cycled the power switch as before, and again the problem went away.
About an hour later the problem came back and this time no amount of power cycling will clear it. Basically what I'm understanding now is that it's the regenerative side that doesn't work with the bad sensor. The hydraulics kick in at around the last 10% of the pedal so the car will still stop, but I have to floor the pedal and that makes the car think your trying to lock up the wheels so it initiates the ABS system which makes stopping jerky and unpredictable. BEWARE the stoke sensor!!! What a dangerous design!! The dealer has the car now...
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My car sat for 3 months and then I tried to start it. When I turn the ignition on, everything looks fine until I hit the brake pedal and the dash lights dim. If I don't press the brake, the dash light dim when I turn the ignition to crank. Either way the starter either clicks or doesn't do anything and I hear a humming sound. My husband said, "The battery has been charged and measures 12.62 volts," but the cigarette lighter voltage measures 12.26, so they are not the same. I have tried jumping it and I still get clicks.
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How the rear, high center mounted brake light (ie "3rd brake light") intermittently lights individual bulbs, but never all at once. It was also causing an annoying "Check Brake Lights" warning plus beep on the dash (on every brake). Till I get it sorted I simply disconnected the 3rd brake light which completely turned it off and just gave me one warning/beep (instead of lots of them).
I spoke to VW about it yesterday and wasnt impressed by their attitude, so last night I tried plugging it back in to see if it was still the same now that my battery should be topped up due to change of house and longer trips. To my surprise at first it worked perfectly, all bulbs lit up.
However the more I tested, the less lights lit up. It was quite strange, they would "dance" on an off right in front of me. Wiggling the wiring had a small effect, but it didnt seem to be a wiring issue. So I plugged it out and left it was it was (disabled). However to my annoyance on my trip in today, I start getting repeated "Check Brake Light" warnings beeps (remember, its disconnected so it should do it once only) and even more irritating every time the warning came up on the dash the front left headlamp would flash on and off once! What the hell is going on with the lighting system!
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2004 v8 phaeton. I have the brake warning light flashing, and the message
BRAKE. BRAKE FLUID. STOP CAR. Have checked the level, O.K. And have tried to flush the system by bleeding the brakes. no positive results.
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I have a major problem with my 04 V8 Touareg! I can't shift out of park. I spoke to the dealer and they told me that the battery could be the problem since I had to get it jumped. I changed the battery, and I still can't get it out of park. The brake light on the dash is flashing and the ABS light is on. The vehicle is parked in garage and the only way to get it out and on to a tow truck is to drag it.
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i have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
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Feb. 2, 2010, I had my '04 Phaeton in for service (88,997 mi) because it would not start. After diagnosis, found faulty brake switch and shifter mechanism. Removed and replaced brake switch, shifter assy, and PRNDL sensor. On Feb. 17, '10, after I started car, it sounded like it was in wrong gear and all drives were lit on dash. Turned off, started again and everything was OK. Called service tech to let him know; he said he would notify mechanic.
On Fri., 19 Mar. '10 at around 2:15 p.m., was driving and noticed again that all drive lights were lit on dash. Pulled off road, turned off motor, started again, and everything seemed OK. Went farther down road, entered super highway, pressed accel. to pass tractor-trailer, only to notice all gears were again lit, as well as a new engine outline (in orange). As I was passing the truck, car surged forward and then made a loud clunk, I drove at 60 on the 70 mph rd. to get to rest area. Turned off motor, looked in manual and it stated car should be taken to dealer. Since it was still "drivable" and I didn't need a tow, I tried calling the dealer 4 times, but only got through to an answering machine. I decided to take car to dealer.
When I arrived, I spoke to the only service writer at the desk, and he was new. Told me they were too busy to take my car that day. I asked to speak to VW service manager, and he said I should not drive car. Car now has 91,509 mi.
I was wondering, why all gear lights keep coming on at the same time, and why the car feels like it has to shift to the next gear. I am thinking the repairs on Feb.2 were not complete.
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I own a 2004 Toyota Camry. Its just under 100,000 miles. A few days ago the ABS and brake lights started flashing on and off at the same time. They stay on for a second and then go off. It doesn't happen every time I drive the car but it is happening more than it's not. The place my husband took it to said they can't diagnose the problem unless the lights stay on. Is it safe to drive the car?
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When I put the pedal down to the floor for a little fun my check engine light will start flashing. I'm not sure how many times or for how long but it worries me.. The check engine light has been on but the car does have 233,000 miles on it but new engine was put in 100,000 ago
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This morning as soon as I started the car, the speedometer dash turned completely scrambled and the rest of the lights keep blinking/flashing. The car does turn on and drive. Upon drive the Maint Reqd and Low temp icons keep flashing. I think I smell something burning as well but I not sure.
In the video below you can see the scrambling. Occasionally it will just turn off. I tried the battery disconnect but did not work. I definitely think something is burning around dash but cannot be sure.
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I was driving around today and had to hit the brakes really hard for the first time. ABS kicked in and during the ABS 'action' the brake pedal rapidly went to the floor. With each 'pump' the ABS made it felt like the pedal sunk slightly.
This was on dry pavement, a little gravelly / dirty and the car stopped rapidly, but just as I stopped the pedal was VERY close to the floor, and with just a touch more pressure it did in fact hit bottom.
Sounds to me like the ABS pump needs to be bled, is that right? Can I do that myself with a VAGCOM? I hate having the dealer do anything, even if it is their job. How to SAFELY confirm if cars does / does not do this as well?
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2005 Volvo S60 T5, 90,000 miles. The brake pedal depresses almost to the floor. Dealer service has not had a solution to this problem. All brake components are supposedly nominal. Might pedal position sensor be faulty?
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My mother went out 2 days ago to go run errands, she stepped on the brake pedal and it went to the floor (car still in garage and in park, low mileage car 81,xxx garage kept). I have not been able to duplicate the issue. The fluid has been changed twice since new, no signs of fluid loss, undercarriage inspection revealed nothing. I am thinking maybe a vacuum hose issue.
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When I go to start and depress the brake pedal it goes all the way to the floor. The brake fluid is at the full mark and my 2011 has only 25k miles. Where should I look since it did not go all the way to the floor when I forst got it with 6K miles.
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2013 Prius c Two, bought brand new with 15 miles on it 5 weeks ago. A few times when driving, I noticed the brakes seemed weak, like they weren't stopping the car very well even at low speeds (My driving is mostly in town on residential streets, so I'm rarely going over 35 MPH. Even so, I'd have to really mash the pedal all the way to the floor to get the car to come to a complete stop, otherwise it would keep moving forward. Several times I ended up about 5-10 feet past the line, sticking the front bumper into cross traffic. Luckily no one hit me. I chalked it up to the quirks of a different car than the one I was used to, and figured if it kept happening I'd take it to the dealership.
On Monday, my wife was stopped at a red light. The light turned green and the car in front of her started to move forward. After a few hundred feet, he suddenly slammed on his brakes. She said her brake pedal went all the way to the floor, and the Prius didn't slow down at all. She hit him going about 25-30 MPH and totaled the Prius. She's an excellent driver and I've been with her before when she's had to panic-stop. She's never driven a car without ABS, so she is used to pushing the pedal hard and keeping her foot on it. She wouldn't even know how to "pump" the pedal. She swears the pedal just went all the way to the floor and the car didn't slow down at all.
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For the past several weeks, my daughter reports that she has to put her foot almost all the way to the floor to get the brakes to work. The brakes do not have an effect until her foot is 1-2 inches from the floor. It usually happens after she has been driving for a while without pressing the brakes. I’ve driven the car numerous times but haven’t been able to replicate the problem. Her commute is approximately 10 miles each way in stop and go traffic. The car is a Volvo xc70 with 200k+ miles. I've had it looked at by a mechanic who didn't find anything but it's continuing to happen. I'm suspicious that it may be a master cylinder problem and concerned about complete brake failure -- should I be?
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When I press the brake pedal, the car will stop. But if I keep pressing it while the car is stopped, the pedal wants to keep going towards the floor. I have to press hard for it to do this. I have bled the brakes. I've checked the calipers and the hoses for leaks and don't see anything. The master cylinder is topped up and I don't see any fluid underneath it. It doesn't appear to be leaking. The funny thing is, when I turn the engine off and press the pedal, the pedal comes to a stop and doesn't want to move after I pressed on it as hard as I can.
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I have a 2007 Sonata GLS 4cyl. Anyhow lately my brake pedal is going right to the floor. The brakes seem to work fine, but if I keep constant pressure on the pedal it will slowly go all the way to the floor. My rear rotors and pads have been changed a couple of months ago and I'm pretty sure my front brakes are good. What could be causing this? I also checked underneath the car for leaks and there doesn't seem to be anything leaking underneath.
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